ATC Working Trailer Build Advice

BritKLR

Kapitis Indagatoris
So, this thread is a little different regarding trailers, but I'm looking for advice from those that have modified factory built trailers for everyday and long distance use. Our company attends a number events around the country and I haul an enclosed trailer to each event. We've been through 3 trailers and I think I've narrowed down the size and features I like. These being 5x8 Enclosed with a front side door, rear barn doors, interior cargo tracks, interior finished walls and lights. The one feature I need advice on and dislike on most commercially built/sold trailers is the tiny axles, wheels and tires. I'd like to find a dealer that sells a modified trailer or modify a new triailer myself with heavier duty axle with hubs that match a Chevy lug pattern and lifting it to accommodate a matching set of wheels and tires as our tow rig. Your advice would be greatly appreciated.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2132.JPG
    IMG_2132.JPG
    1.9 MB · Views: 47
  • IMG_2141.JPG
    IMG_2141.JPG
    1.5 MB · Views: 46
  • IMG_2155.JPG
    IMG_2155.JPG
    1.2 MB · Views: 44
  • IMG_2719.JPG
    IMG_2719.JPG
    1.8 MB · Views: 40
Last edited:

Jmanscotch

is wandering
Hey Paul, so the real use is still going to be primarily highway and maybe light dirt trails? How much weight do you need to carry?

Most 5x8's are going to be 3,500 lb capacity trailers, some are derated to 2,500 due to the axle size, some higher but I'd say 3,500 is going to be your most common. Based on the fact that you're seemingly running a single axle 5x8, that weight rating should be sufficient.

My tips, based on what I've researched and done with a cargo trailer, is as follows:

- Dexter axles are what you're looking for, they're considered the best axle in terms of quality and they have many options to fit your lug pattern needs. Plenty of trailer companies use them and it shouldn't be much hassle to find a trailer company in Colorado that comes factory with a nice Dexter 3,500 lb axle.

- Look for trailers with Dexters "EZ Lube" hubs. It's a hub setup that has a zerk fitting build into the outboard end of the spindle and makes grease maintenance a true breeze, compared to standard hubs that need broken down to clean and regrease ever so many miles. If your trailer will be a workhorse, as you describe, this will be a worthwhile find, trust me.

- Looking at your tow rig, I presume it runs 6x5.5" lug pattern and thus that's what you're searching for in a trailer axle. Trailers tend to default to a 5x4.5" lug pattern. Once you find a trailer dealer you like, ask about cost of getting one optioned with a Dexter 3,500 lb axle with 6x5.5" lugs and EZ Lube hubs. Once you have that cost in mind, compare it to the cost of buying a well built trailer without the right axle and the cost of swapping one in. I can tell you that retrofitting a 3,500 lb Dexter axle, with EZ Lube hubs, with no brakes and a 6x5.5" lug pattern is going to run you about $350 in parts (+/- $50 or so depending on buying locally vs online with shipping cost). Retrofitting a new axle in a new trailer is pretty straight forward if you're comfortable with jacks and some wrenches.

Another option you have is to run adapters to change the stock 5x4.5 lug pattern to a 6x5.5. This will cost you about $100 in adapters, but one potential benefit will be it'll give you a little more clearance for certain wheels on the trailer. The 5x4.5 to 6x5.5 adapters are a minimum of 2" thick, which means it'll push your wheels mounting surface 2" wider on each side of the trailer. You might need this extra clearance to run the Chevy wheels you want to run, or it might poke them out too much for the fenders, all dependant on the backspacing of the wheels you want to run. If you choose to swap axles instead of using adapters, you'll want to consider the wheel fitment when picking the new axles WMS width (WMS = Wheel Mounting Surface). You could look into simply changing the hubs on a factory fitted axle, and get the right lug pattern that way, but my findings have been that the axles fitted to the trailers make finding a compatible 6x5.5 hub difficult (because the inner/outer bearing size don't match up).

When it comes to lifting the trailer to fit slightly bigger tires, the easiest/cheapest way is going to be to flip the axle (presuming its a standard axle and not axle-less suspension). Most trailers will come with the axle mounted on top of the trailers leaf springs. Flipping the axle involves unbolting the axle from the springs, relocating it under the leaf springs, welding on a new perch mount and bolting it back together. This will lift the trailer by the diameter of the axle tube plus the thickness of the leaf springs as measured where the axle mounts on them. This is typically around a 3.5-4" lift for a similar trailer. That clearance should be enough to clear the fenders with slightly larger sized tires, like those on your truck. If not, one other option would be to raise the fenders some to gain that clearance.

Lastly, you can recoup some cost by selling the old wheels/tires and maybe axle (if you swap). I've had good luck selling used trailer axles for about $60 on CL and the wheel/tires sets for an easy $100. So if you take a new trailer, replace the axle, wheels and tires for a cost of roughly $500-600, you can recoup $150 of that selling the like new take off parts.

If you intend to take the setup off road and want some recommendations of suspension changes, I have some more ideas for you to consider, just let me know.

Also, let me know if there's anything mentioned I can expand on some more.

Jake
 
Last edited:

BritKLR

Kapitis Indagatoris
Hey Paul, so the real use is still going to be primarily highway and maybe light dirt trails? How much weight do you need to carry?

Most 5x8's are going to be 3,500 lb capacity trailers, some are derated to 2,500 due to the axle size, some higher but I'd say 3,500 is going to be your most common. Based on the fact that you're seemingly running a single axle 5x8, that weight rating should be sufficient.

My tips, based on what I've researched and done with a cargo trailer, is as follows:

- Dexter axles are what you're looking for, they're considered the best axle in terms of quality and they have many options to fit your lug pattern needs. Plenty of trailer companies use them and it shouldn't be much hassle to find a trailer company in Colorado that comes factory with a nice Dexter 3,500 lb axle.

- Look for trailers with Dexters "EZ Lube" hubs. It's a hub setup that has a zerk fitting build into the outboard end of the spindle and makes grease maintenance a true breeze, compared to standard hubs that need broken down to clean and regrease ever so many miles. If your trailer will be a workhorse, as you describe, this will be a worthwhile find, trust me.

- Looking at your tow rig, I presume it runs 6x5.5" lug pattern and thus that's what you're searching for in a trailer axle. Trailers tend to default to a 5x4.5" lug pattern. Once you find a trailer dealer you like, ask about cost of getting one optioned with a Dexter 3,500 lb axle with 6x5.5" lugs and EZ Lube hubs. Once you have that cost in mind, compare it to the cost of buying a well built trailer without the right axle and the cost of swapping one in. I can tell you that retrofitting a 3,500 lb Dexter axle, with EZ Lube hubs, with no brakes and a 6x5.5" lug pattern is going to run you about $350 in parts (+/- $50 or so depending on buying locally vs online with shipping cost). Retrofitting a new axle in a new trailer is pretty straight forward if you're comfortable with jacks and some wrenches.

Another option you have is to run adapters to change the stock 5x4.5 lug pattern to a 6x5.5. This will cost you about $100 in adapters, but one potential benefit will be it'll give you a little more clearance for certain wheels on the trailer. The 5x4.5 to 6x5.5 adapters are a minimum of 2" thick, which means it'll push your wheels mounting surface 2" wider on each side of the trailer. You might need this extra clearance to run the Chevy wheels you want to run, or it might poke them out too much for the fenders, all dependant on the backspacing of the wheels you want to run. If you choose to swap axles instead of using adapters, you'll want to consider the wheel fitment when picking the new axles WMS width (WMS = Wheel Mounting Surface).

When it comes to lifting the trailer to fit slightly bigger tires, the easiest/cheapest way is going to be to flip the axle (presuming its a standard axle and not axle-less suspension). Most trailers will come with the axle mounted on top of the trailers leaf springs. Flipping the axle involves unbolting the axle from the springs, relocating it under the leaf springs, welding on a new perch mount and bolting it back together. This will lift the trailer by the diameter of the axle tube plus the thickness of the leaf springs as measured where the axle mounts on them. This is typically around a 3.5-4" lift for a similar trailer. That clearance should be enough to clear the fenders with slightly larger sized tires, like those on your truck. If not, one other option would be to raise the fenders some to gain that clearance.

Lastly, you can recoup some cost by selling the old wheels/tires and maybe axle (if you swap). I've had good luck selling used trailer axles for about $60 on CL and the wheel/tires sets for an easy $100. So if you take a new trailer, replace the axle, wheels and tires for a cost of roughly $500-600, you can recoup $150 of that selling the like new take off parts.

If you intend to take the setup off road and want some recommendations of suspension changes, I have some more ideas for you to consider, just let me know.

Also, let me know if there's anything mentioned I can expand on some more.

Jake


Jake...wow! Thank you for this thoughtful, detailed and obviously knowledgeable response! I've combed through the forums and net and haven't found anything this comprehensive as it applies to my needs. Kudos to you and The ExPo family!
 

Jmanscotch

is wandering
Absolutely sir, I've done a lot of digging, playing around and debating on certain setups for my own use and it's all from that experience.

Feel free to post some details on any potential setups you find and are contemplating and I'd be happy to offer one man's thoughts on it for you to consider.
 

BritKLR

Kapitis Indagatoris
Thanks!

So, in my mind this is what I'm looking for in our road trailer.

1) White, Enclosed 5x8 trailer with side door and rear barn doors
2) Dexter 3500 lb axle with Chevy bolt pattern 6x5.5 with back spacing to fit the OEM steel wheels (like on the Tiger) and Ez-lube fittings.
3) Spring over the axle to add height to accommodate the 17 in wheels
4) Electric brakes (never had electric brakes, but seems like a good safety feature)
5) add a exterior spare tire/fuel can mount
6) Custom wrap our logo on the trailer

Do you see any glaring concerns? Much appreciated.
 

john61ct

Adventurer
Consider Timbren axle-less.

Pricey yes.

Have various heights available for the 3500# models, 4" drop, regular and 4" lift, depending on your clearance vs COG needs.
 

Jmanscotch

is wandering
Sounds like a good setup. One thing to consider since you'll be wrapping it with a logo: some trailers (cheaper ones aka $2,000-2,500 for a 5x8) are built with multiple panel skins. These skins are attached with external screws. Applying a wrap over the screws will be problematic, removing the screws to apply the wrap and then reinstalling the screws will cost you in labor. Some higher end trailers will be single side panels and free of too many exposed, exterior hardware. A secondary benefit to higher end trailers will often be a single piece roof. Some say that's the way to go to help avoid any leaking concerns down the road. I went with the cheaper setup and two-piece roof.

Shouldn't be impossible to find that combo, or atleast have it done by a trailer store.

I think the 6x5.5" with brakes is going to be the tougher items to get out of the box, for a single axle 5x8 atleast. You shouldn't have much problem finding the Dexter, the EZ lube and some shop willing to flip the axle for you (with some more notable cost for the axle flip since there's welding involved).

When you flip the axle, you *must* weld on a new leaf spring perch since the leaf springs will now need a place to mount on the top side of the axle tube instead of the bottom side. The axles typically have a bow built into the axle tube, which is why you can't just rotate the axle to position the old perch on the top side. It'd invert the bow in the axle and create bad alignment characteristics as well as effect load handling. You also can't just run a new perch without welding it on, especially if running brakes, because the forces of braking the trailer axle could cause the axle to rotate in it's mount and that wouldn't be good.

Timbren setups are nice, but I tend to have the opinion that unless you really have a specific reason for going that route, it's not money spent wisely (assuming spending money wisely is even a concern). Any failures while traveling the country will result in much more difficulty getting repairs versus a traditional axle setup. So unless you can justify the need that outweighs the potential cons....
 
Last edited:

john61ct

Adventurer
My understanding is the Timbrens are very well made, unlikely to fail within the first ten years if usage is within spec.

Maybe less so for true offroad bashing.

Also, parts are all modular and easily user-replaced, nothing you'd be looking for someone to "repair" anyway.

What I really like, is the whole box can be much lower due to inherently higher clearance, there being no axle under the floor.

If higher MPG isn't a priority, then that can yield another ~6" of headroom for the same max outside height, ideal for those looking for good insulation.
 
your trailer "what to do" list has been covered already.

i just came in to say, i love your tow rig, its the perfect size. i (believe) i saw it at expo east in the fall, but was too busy to meander far from the booth.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
188,446
Messages
2,905,066
Members
230,360
Latest member
TNielson-18
Top