Auxiliary fans in front of the radiator?

winkosmosis

Explorer
Today a coworker and I were GPSing trails for the county in my XJ... After some time driving on trails in the hot west Maui sun the "check gauges" light came on, so I checked my ScanGauge... The coolant temperature was 267°F!! I pulled over to let it cool down, and when I turned off the engine we heard it boiling. Coolant was dripping on the right front tire.

There just isn't enough airflow at low speed and high engine load. :costumed-smiley-007

I don't really want to install vents on my hood, but I was thinking about putting in some manually controlled auxiliary fans in front of the radiator. It would be a much simpler mod than replacing either of the existing fans and would add some redundancy. But what fans can I buy for this project? Any ideas for attaching them?
 

762X39

Explorer
Alot of the aux fans I have seen aren't very good and don't really move enough air( I seem to remember the Spal fans being as good as they get).The other problem is the high current draw of an electric fan drawing down the battery when you are running slow (most alternators don't put out enough current at idle to keep up with draw).
Before you add a fan, try and improve your cooling system to be more efficient.I run a water wetting agent in my Unimogs cooling system (Purple Ice) and will pop the hood so it is open an inch or two. This seems to really help. Just remember to latch the hood before you get back on the highway.:coffee:
 

jeepdreamer

Expedition Leader
Simple things first...

First check to insure the fans are working! Can't remember off the top of my head if 99 XJs had duel or single fans. But all XJs have had issues with the fan/cooling system. Earlier ones are a bit of a different animal. On yours, verify that the fan is working. If it is relying on the thermostat (fan not the coolant) to tell it to come on and the Tstat is dead...there you go. Also ensure the fuse for the fan is still intact.
Next, if the fan IS working (both if double and cinfirmed both kink in) the there are several other things to eyeball. Coolant condition, engine thermostat, radiator. Has it all been maintained and serviced lately? Coolant, like engine oil, will break down over time and loose its ability to function properly.
Also, does your XJ have a manual or auto tranny? If auto, remember there is a tranny cooler up there as well. And they produce A LOT of heat!!!
Just some food for thought...
 

KG6BWS

Explorer
Evans NPG+ Waterless coolant in a zero-pressure system. I run it in my MBZ 300SD, Yukon and Excursion, never have a problem with cooling.

This looks interesting. Out of curiosity, how long have you been using this stuff?? Im looking for ways to improve the cooling on my Tacoma. Thinking about having a 4 core radiator built, mines about due for an overhaul anyways. Between a 4 core and this stuff, I dont think Id ever have a problem again.
 

SunTzuNephew

Explorer
This looks interesting. Out of curiosity, how long have you been using this stuff?? Im looking for ways to improve the cooling on my Tacoma. Thinking about having a 4 core radiator built, mines about due for an overhaul anyways. Between a 4 core and this stuff, I dont think Id ever have a problem again.

I've been using it in the MBZ for about 10 years, and the Ex since it went out of warranty, 5 or so years. I think about 7 years on the Yukon.

In all of them, I did as thorough a flush of the cooling system as I could: Removed the thermostat, drained as much as I could, filled with water and chemical (2-part) cleaner, flushed that with tap water, replaced all the hoses (on the MBZ...they were original, on an '82 so I figured they needed it on principal, same with the Yukon but about 15 years newer), flushed with distilled water 3 times, then replaced the thermostat and radiator cap (with a zero-pressure cap) and filled with the Evans. Over the next week after driving (with the heater on) the water left in the system would boil out (at zero pressure water boils at 212, the Evans at 375) and I'd top up. When the car didn't need topping up any more it was done. I've rarely had to top up again.

One nice thing is that it seems that the heater works better in the winter - maybe because the temperature of coolant is more stable? I'd run it in my newer truck if it wasn't under warranty (no point installing it if the dealer will drain and replace with regular stuff).

I also use this stuff in my tractor - it turns slushy at -40F, but doesn't expand...and when you start the engine up, local heat will cause it to melt (thereby cooling) - no problems for cooling, and the water pump doesn't seem to mind. I keep the tractor in a covered but sideless shed, with no heater: It starts just fine in the winter (Mobil-1 oil, and diesel anti-gel too).
 

Ironwagon

New member
You definitely have a cooling problem with your current setup. Summer temps here hit 120 and both my Cherokees run 210-215 at the hottest.
One thing mentioned above is worth noting...the auto trans adds a LOT of heat with the factory trans cooler in the radiator. Both my XJ's have identical drivelines and cooling systems, except one is manual and one is auto. The manual XJ never goes above 210. And until I added an additional cooler to the auto XJ, the temps would slowly creep up when working it hard, on the highway or creeping along.
 

winkosmosis

Explorer
I'll check the fans the next time it gets hot.

I know coolant degrades with age, but isnt' that just the anti-corrosion chemicals? The ethylene glycol shouldn't degrade.

If or when I change the coolant, can I use less antifreeze and more distilled water since it doesn't freeze here? Maybe a 2:1 ratio? Can I then use propylene glycol even though Chrysler advises against it due to the lower specific heat of the propylene glycol?
 

winkosmosis

Explorer
You definitely have a cooling problem with your current setup. Summer temps here hit 120 and both my Cherokees run 210-215 at the hottest.
One thing mentioned above is worth noting...the auto trans adds a LOT of heat with the factory trans cooler in the radiator. Both my XJ's have identical drivelines and cooling systems, except one is manual and one is auto. The manual XJ never goes above 210. And until I added an additional cooler to the auto XJ, the temps would slowly creep up when working it hard, on the highway or creeping along.

That would explain why it got so hot offroad, when the torque convertor had no chance to lock up
 

winkosmosis

Explorer
BTW when I started it up again once it hit 230, it hesitated and stumbled for about 5 seconds. Is that just heat soak?
 

HenryKrinkle

Observer
Sounds like heat soak.

Try a new fan clutch like this one:
http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?R=TEM272310_0214998535
That fan has been used by a few very experienced XJ folks with great results. I will be doing one in the next few weeks.


Also, it sounds like you haven't done much to the coolant system in a while. It would probably be a good idea to replace any hoses that are on their way out, flush the system and refill with new liquid, hose off the front and back of your radiator, and consider replacing your thermostat and water pump.

All of that can be done under $150 and would be cheap insurance against overheating in the middle of nowhere.
 

HenryKrinkle

Observer
Depending on your year/system we can give you more specific info. There is a better pressure bottle cap for Renix XJ's and tips to burp the system. Otherwise if your Jeep is an HO model, just get a new radiator cap- they are cheap and wear out, causing pressure loss.

Here is a post from a fellow who goes by "5-90" on an XJ-specific forum regarding cooling systems in general. Some of it is specific to Renix Jeeps with pressure bottles, but overall is very good info:

A "blown" cap can and do cause coolant loss. The pressure maintained by the cap causes the coolant to boil at a higher temperature - loss of pressure will depress the boiling point again, and that means you'll have steam escaping the system.

You gain 3*F from the normal 212*F boiling point for each 1psig of the cap - so a 16psig cap means you'll be boiling at 212*F + 48*F = 260*F. Design temperature of the 6-242 is 210-215*F, so you're right on the edge of boiling at atmospheric pressure... (The reverse is also true - you lose 3*F margin for each 1psig you lose over the water. I'll leave looking up the decrease in boiling point due to altitude as an exercise for the pupil.)

Given that this is a plastic tank, it's also fairly common for it to crack along a seam line or a mould parting line after a few years. I'll source replacements from Morros 4x4 Center - for a decent price, you get a new tank (by Crown, which is a brand that has always treated me well so far) and a new cap stuck on it (also Crown.) I've been replacing caps every five years without incident.

Other things that can help:
- Drilling the thermostat. As mentioned above, drill the two holes in the tstat. This will help prevent a "steam void" behind the thing, and will help get the initial air pocket out from behind it as well.
- Water Wetter, by RedLine. I love this stuff!
- Make sure your fan clutch is up to scratch. On the XJ, it is not a "lifetime" part, it is a maintenance part. About every five years, and I find it a good habit to pick a flat spot you'll be able to see easily with the thing installed, and write the date you installed it there (ditto the cap. Ditto the mileage on the oil filter. You can eventually accumulate enough vehicles that you lose track, and I have CRS anyhow.)
- If you have the thermostat out, check the inside of that housing. A grinding burr (not a stone!) will work neatly for getting any casting flash and surface irregularities out of the thing - which can impede coolant flow.
- Blast your radiator fins out with a garden hose, from the engine side! I've seen some amazing crud get stuck in there...
- Degrease your engine. You wouldn't normally think of this, but a clean engine is a cool engine - it doesn't get rid of heat simply through the radiator!


If you continue having problems, consider finding one of the XJ-specific technical forums for help.

Good luck...
 

winkosmosis

Explorer
It's a 1999 4.0 automatic. I should have included that in the post but I always neglect to because it's in the sig.


I just remembered I never replaced my radiator cap in 2 years. I bought one a few months back and forgot about it.
 

Stumpalump

Expedition Leader
XJ's radiators are known to go bad at a young age. If yours is original or more than a few years old then replace it. They are cheap.
 

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