AZ Astro Van project - slow build - advice welcomed 2004 AWD LT

nobodyhome

Adventurer
Awesome AZ, sounds like a plan. I slammed in the lift this past Saturday and like everyone said.. easy peasy. Took about 4 hours start to finish, only needed some very basic tools and some wood blocks (pictured below). The OLV kit itself is very basic, some spacers, bolts and some really good adjustable shackles. The instructions are very clear but would benefit from more pictures for a dummy like me. Gerald at overlandvans.com was a big help on my initial journey, so I made sure to order from him. However in all fairness there are other solutions out there, like http://journeysoffroad.com/awd-astrosafari-lift-kits.html ,as well as suggestions to replicate the OLV kit for cheaper.

Here are all the tools I need (not pictured: skilsaw for shroud and tons o wood blocks!)
0116161040.jpg

Front end install:
(Note- I understand the wood blocks are hokey as hell, but sometimes ya just have to improvise, adapt and overcome. I did screw the blocks together so they wouldn't collapse)

0116160846_zpshziggzet.jpg


Rear end install:
0116160939_zpszkd6ljux.jpg




Regarding tires;

I have noticed 2 things about my lift and tire size selection...

- 235/75/16 was... a wee bit ambitious. They rubbed everywhere, all day long on stock ride height. If I had it to do over, I'd go 225/75/16 and give up the ~1/2 gain in clearance, in favor for better wheel well clearance when flexing over obstacles.

Here is the stock rear wheel well clearance on 235/75/16:

0116160806a.jpg


- The 2 " lift and removing the front bumper cover (running with only the sub-bumper support now) took car of most of the rub, but I still have a problem. When I accelerate, the back of the van dumps down to the point where the wheel well rubs on the tires. I believe this is mostly due to tired springs and shocks. To avoid the pain of installing new springs, and to have adjustable ride height in back for towing, I have decided to go with an air bag assist. Specifically, Firestone Ride-Rite #2361 (fits 99-05) which should work fine for you as well since our vans are almost twins. Found it here for $320, + free shipping: http://www.truckspring.com/products...it-Chevrolet-Astro-GMC-Safari-Rear__2361.aspx

Here is the van with the lift installed:


Hope this info is helpful. When life allows, I would recommend taking this leap. It improves ground clearance, allows for bigger tires, sheds the 'soccer mom' image well, and doesn't appear to affect the ride at all.
Good luck and please keep us posted!
 

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PJorgen

Desert Dweller
Congrats on the van! I had a 2003 AWD Safari (GMC version) that I camped out of for years. They're pretty capable vehicles. You got a good year, the last version 2003-2005 had a few improvements, most notably four wheel disc brakes.

The 4.3L V6 is a pretty reliable engine and the last of GM's 90 degree V6s, but it does have one weak point. The gasket between the cylinder heads and the intake manifold can develop small leaks that allow coolant to enter the cylinders. Not surprisingly, this can lead to catastrophic failure. so, things to watch for: if the engine seems to be losing coolant but you don't see any leaks it could be the gasket. If your exhaust has that sweet coolant smell on start up, could be the gasket.

There are a couple of fairly easy ways to check for this. You can get a coolant test kit at most auto parts stores, be sure it tests for combustion by-products in the coolant. You can send a sample of your oil to a lab like Blackstone to do an oil analysis, they test for coolant in the oil, along with a lot of other things too. It's only $25 and is a great way to understand the overall condition of your engine.

The AWD system is also pretty reliable, but the encoder motor can fail. The encoder motor is the thing that engages the transfer case when the transfer case control module (TCCM) detects wheel slip by way of the wheel speed sensors. The encoder motor is really easy to replace, don't even need to lift the vehicle if you're thin enough to side under it. If you have to replace the encoder motor I recommend paying for an OEM part, the after market Dorman brand is junk in my experience. The TCCM can fail too, but that's not common.

For serious off-roading some guys install a two speed transfer case from an S10, but that was beyond my capabilities. Check your RPO codes for the G80 rear-end. If you've got that you're lucky and will have a more capable off-roader. If no G80 you can install a Eaton True Track or other auto-locker you're good to go.

Have fun and keep us posted.
 

nobodyhome

Adventurer
OK buddy, to tackle some of your other questions that I now have experience with....

Hood Black:
- I get zero glare, in fact I can't even see the hood when I'm driving. I believe the angle is such that it wouldn't reflect the sunlight into your eyes, maybe onto the windshield under some conditions, but I haven't experienced it with this or my '99 Safari Van. Your call but my experience says don't bother. If you do, I'd go with a flat black vinyl (3M vinyl still the best) as opposed to paint so you can take it off if you so desire.

Turn Signal Flasher:
- Looks like you already heard some solutions on that, but here is what I got from my local O'Reillys...
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...ck=Search_01546_1371473_-1&pt=01546&ppt=C0117
Also on Amazon... http://amzn.com/B000JZ33I2
BE ADVISED... Not ALL Heavy Duty Flashers are solid state (LED Compatible), like CEC's is just a heat activated relay like the stock flasher.

Interior LED upgrades:
I bought all mine on Amazon for dirt cheap. I've tried a few that didn't work so well, so here's the ones that I think actually worked great:

- Map Lights (x6):
10pk of LED bulb# 194
Link: http://amzn.com/B00OH0S5Y2

- Dome (x3)
4 pk LED bulb# 212-2
Link: http://amzn.com/B00B2YE4B4
* These work for entry courtesy (step well) if so equipped.

Undercoat for Insulation:
- Sorry, no experience there. I have seen more people than not who pull up carpet and install insulation from the inside. Dynamat, asphalt underlayment and even flexible silver insulation from Home Depot. Realistically; undercoat is a rubberized polymer which has no real 'R Value' associated with it. It is good at corrosion prevention obviously, but many people note it helps deaden road noise.

Hope this helps.
 
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nobodyhome

Adventurer
Congrats on the van! I had a 2003 AWD Safari (GMC version) that I camped out of for years. They're pretty capable vehicles. You got a good year, the last version 2003-2005 had a few improvements, most notably four wheel disc brakes.....

Thanks for the info PJorgen, that was helpful to me as a fellow newbie like our friend from AZ here.
 

nobodyhome

Adventurer
... The Overland Van kits typically include shock relocation tabs that need to be welded to the rear axle tube. This is intended to let you re-use your OEM-length shocks. Several of us in the Astro community are re-thinking this strategy now. My personal recommendation (that requires less tools!) is to skip this step and use the OEM shock mounting points unless/until you find that the below-the-axle mount actually causes you problems (I relocated my shock tabs, but still have the OEM mounts hanging down, and they've never caught on anything...)
This will mean you'll need to purchase longer shocks instead, but because of how the bump-stop system is laid out, I think this is a better design. Fit the rear lift, then go straight to your favorite suspension shop/offroad shop and get them to help you find an appropriate length shock. It'll likely be ~4" longer than OEM, depending on your lift settings. In fact, if you did the fronts on Day1, you can have them re-do the alignment while you're there.

Hi Herbie- Do you have a suggestion on the right shock (or to avoid) for this 2" lift? I'm hoping to find out what brand/ part number you used. I'm finding it hard to find the right match out of the box since nobody appears to stock "Shocks for Astro w/ 2" lift". haha
I'm posting this question on AZ's thread so he can benefit from your experience too.

Thanks.
 

PJorgen

Desert Dweller
Thanks for the info PJorgen, that was helpful to me as a fellow newbie like our friend from AZ here.

Glad to be of help. The Astro/Safari vans were great vehicles, the last truck-based body on frame mini-van made; really rugged. I don't understand why GM discontinued them.

I used to camp with three other guys who each had an Astro or Safari. We used to get some strange looks with a camp site full of four almost matching vans.
 

Herbie

Rendezvous Conspirator
Glad to be of help. The Astro/Safari vans were great vehicles, the last truck-based body on frame mini-van made; really rugged. I don't understand why GM discontinued them.

I used to camp with three other guys who each had an Astro or Safari. We used to get some strange looks with a camp site full of four almost matching vans.

Just so we don't get too far out there: They aren't really body on frame. There's a front subframe for the powertrain, but that, and all the rear suspension, bolts to a unibody. They share a lot of parts-bin stuff with GM's light duty trucks (S-10/Blazer), but I wouldn't call them "truck based", per se.

As to why GM discontinued them? A 20-year production run with only a single cosmetic facelift and no significant mechanical revisions (other then periodic refreshes by raiding the aforementioned GM parts bin) left our vans pretty long in the tooth. Every time I get into the guts of mine, I'm reminded just how very 80's (and earlier) that design is.

However, they are definitely hard to beat in the "what you get in the package" category. I do wish GM had done more continuous improvement on the line!
 

PJorgen

Desert Dweller
Just so we don't get too far out there: They aren't really body on frame. There's a front subframe for the powertrain, but that, and all the rear suspension, bolts to a unibody. They share a lot of parts-bin stuff with GM's light duty trucks (S-10/Blazer), but I wouldn't call them "truck based", per se.

As to why GM discontinued them? A 20-year production run with only a single cosmetic facelift and no significant mechanical revisions (other then periodic refreshes by raiding the aforementioned GM parts bin) left our vans pretty long in the tooth. Every time I get into the guts of mine, I'm reminded just how very 80's (and earlier) that design is.

However, they are definitely hard to beat in the "what you get in the package" category. I do wish GM had done more continuous improvement on the line!

Maybe it's a terminology thing, but when I helped my brother-in-law rebuild his Astro we stripped it down to what looked like a frame:

Astro Frame.jpg

It is my understanding that the Astro is an S10 chassis with a van body. Is that not correct?
 

PJorgen

Desert Dweller
Yup, that first pic is one I swiped from the Interwebs as I didn't have a pic of the work I did with my B-i-L, but that was what I recalled it looked like. Could I possibly have been mistaken? My wife would certainly agree that I was!
 

ihatemybike

Explorer
I've owned and wrenched on every generation of the Astro and know for fact that they never came from the factory with a full length frame. I have seen a few custom jobs with the body grafted onto a truck chassis, but these have all been big lifted trucks.

Based on payload, towing, ride, I would call them truck based in the same way people consider the uni-frame Jeep Cherokee a truck.
 

Mwilliamshs

Explorer
Could that have been an Aerostar?

hard to tell from the small picture but it looks like leaf springs in the rear. Aerostars use coils in a 3-link. The total lack of crossmembers looks right though. Aerostar frames were fairly heavily welded to the bodies so separating one with that much paint intact seems unlikely.
 

PJorgen

Desert Dweller
I didn't mean to derail this thread into a debate about Astro/Safari frame construction. I admit, I don't really know and defer to those who are more knowledgeable.

Let's continue to give the AZ Newbie good advice about his wonderful Astro van.
 

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