Backroads Camping/ Destination Expo 2015!

[Sleam]

For the first time, I planned to go to Expo West in the Coconino National Forest. I just didn't want to take I40 from Albuquerque to Flagstaff. What would be the point? Isn't this all about the journey and not simply the destination? Anyway, I took the week off work and took a nap. Thursday morning rolled around and the weather forecast was for rain and snow. I looked at my pile ready to be packed in the 4Runner. I threw out the shorts and sandals - so much for the Arizona heat, I thought. I found my insulated coveralls and Sorrell's snow boots. Hat, gloves, down sleeping blanket all found their way into the expanding pile.
Packing isn't as easy at it used to be. Maybe its because I'm 47 and no longer want to live out of my backpack like I did for 4 yrs in my twenties. I folded down the seats and made up a bed in the back of the 4Runner with some memory foam, sleeping bag, three other thick comforters and a blanket. I then collected the foods, the one-ring burner, a bag of clothes, a bucket with dog food, leashes and tie-outs. Oh, and 3 gallons of water. That should do.



I planned on taking my three dogs, Harold, Rosie, and Oliver. However, Little Stephen, the kitten wasn't keen on being left at home.



I locked him inside with Kristie Cat an hour before we left, just to make sure the little bugger didn't hide away in the truck.

Off we went, taking Hwy 14 South through Tijeras and into Cibola NF.



The road climbed through the mountains and traffic disappeared after crossing I40. We drove through Chilillee Land Grant, a small rural village with dogs wandering, old adobe homes, old pick up trucks and huge piles of firewood. In Torreon we pulled off the road and the dogs took a run and pee break. I finished my coffee. It was a cloudy cool day and reminded me of camping in Wales as a kid.

We finally hit US 60 and headed west. The road was completely empty, beautiful and straight.

 

[Sleam]

US 60 reaches I25 and joins the interstate heading south. There is no frontage road, its the interstate south to Socorro or...I took a chance and followed a dirt road and turned west onto B12, and all dirt road that skirted Ladron Peak to the south of us. We took another break. Traveling my way is very slow by the way so don't come with me unless you drive at a snails pace and get distracted frequently.



The road was a mix of gravel and caliche, graded, wide and even. A good surface but still restricted to 25 mph most of the way. I did see a wooden sign with the words Magdelana 49 miles. I relaxed at that point. We were heading in the right direction.

I let the dogs out to run until we came to a junction. No signs. Both paths seemed to head in roughly the south-west direction so I took a chance. The road immediately narrowed, steeper and more intense. Uh oh. I kept going anyway. Why not, right? There were no other vehicles at all. I stopped at the peak of one range and looked down into the valley below, our road winding through the mountains ahead. Damn, it was windy and incredibly beautiful. Yep, much better than the fast I40.





The road took to the hillside, dropping off to the wash below. I came around one corner and another junction without signs. I took the southern route and found ourselves facing a huge wide wash/ arroyo with water. I took a moment, slipped into 4WD and crossed the water and fingers. It was only inches deep after all! Oh well, I kept driving until we came to Magdelana. Those 49 miles took over 2 hours. It's a good thing I wasn't in a rush.

 

[Sleam]

Magdelena, NM, was founded in 1884 and now has a population hovering around 1000 according to the census. There are no gas stations. Bummer.

I drove up to Datil, another 50 or so miles and pulled over. The wind was bellowing. In front of me, a little old lady climbed out of a Hyundai and her wig blew off. I waited 10 minutes for fuel. We head out again, this time stopping in Quemado. I realise we'd stayed in a small motel here some three years ago when traveling to AZLRO spring gathering in 2012. I'd been in a 1959 Land Rover and found a tire splitting. Opposite the motel was a tire shop. The dad of the girl running the motel. Yep, small towns. He set me up but overinflated everything. I'd driven off that time, pulled over and released some air before carrying on. This time, I took south turn and drove 15 miles towards Quemado lakes. Back on the NF roads, it was first Apache NF and then around the last corner at the lake it was Gila. I wanted to settle in for the night so we drove past the reservoir and headed back into the forest.



I'd driven 280 miles in 7 hours. Oh well. I always wonder when I finally stop why it took me so long. This was well worth the wait. A primitive campsite, El Caso, free, pit-toilets, no water but for a creek, firepits (but it was too windy to dare). I let the dogs roam free and made frito pies for dinner. Followed by a beer and peanuts as I checked out the maps for the next day.



The dogs are so good on these wanders of mine. They listen, stick close, pay attention, and take naps after dinner. Good dogs.

 

[Sleam]

The night was wet and windy and I was glad we'd slept in the truck and not a tent. Ollie shivered all night long so I had to donate a blanket to the skinny boy. I set up the fire and warmed up as the dogs ran free in the trees. Squirrel! Coffee on. I wore the Sorrels and a good coat it was that cold.



We took the coffee down to the lake, empty at seven am and so the dogs got to run off leash once again. The weather chilled me to the core and after a while i climbed back in the truck and ran the heater. The dogs suddenly returned and climbed in the back, panting and happy with life.

The lake was incredibly beautiful, surrounded by tall ponderosas and short junipers!



Packed up, we took to US 60 and headed west towards Springerville for coffee and fuel. The day opened with a storm waiting in the mountains ahead.

 

[OverlandKyle]

More! More! More!

 

[jonnyquest]

X2...more please


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[PetitFrereArmada]

Nice... Talk about true living. Enjoy.

 

[Sleam]

Thanks folks! More of the actual gathering then? It was raining when I went to the main gates and paid my $65 weekend pass. The dogs didn't want to join me so in boots and coveralls, I wandered the mud vendors. A landcruiser passed me on the throughway, he opened his window and asked, "What time is the mud wrestling?" "At half past three," I told him.



I loved looking at all the modified vehicles people showcased. Although to be honest, I thought many lost the point of back road travelling, of overlanding. There was no simplicity, no getting back in touch with a slower more nature focused lifestyle. These travelers are insulated from the outside world, the weather, what with all the gadgets and basically set up like the FLorida RV-ers! Kinda made me happy with my little old 4Runner and tent. Although, I also have to say that I doubt I'd live out of the tent/ 4Runner for extended trips with these three dogs of mine. I've crossed the country numerous times on a 1980 CB750 and lived in my toyota truck one winter as I researched intentional communities out east. Anyway, back to the photos ok?





I liked the many Westfalias that had been driven around the world. I used to have a 69 VW camper that I lived in for a while. (I have a tendency to keep vehicles 3 yrs or so before I get an itch for a different 'project'...)





A VW on steroids, I liked the set up some of the Sportsmobile. I'll be honest, this would be my ideal for long distances with dogs, just perfect for me to take the back roads from NM to Alaska, one goal of mine. The one is these photos are more open that the side bench style. On my $15K income p/a, I don't know how I'd ever buy one but I can dream right? Perhaps my novels will start selling on a national scale, perhaps I'll get a book deal to write about my travels? I dream big.

 

[Sleam]

I spotted a pale blue Dormobile with a group of fellas huddled nearby in the rain.



As I looked back and forth, a voice called out, "Sleam?" Tall, covered in a green rain coat, a friendly face stuck his hand out. "I"m Sean!"
We'd met on here, talking old rovers, talking Expo. He introduced me to the rest of the gang and I found I knew most of them already. TerriAnn had worked on my 59 one year after it'd had vapor lock nearby in Flagstaff. She had driven her Dormobile down from Flag with a friend, Ian, following in his own Dormobile. Kelly and James H I'd met three years before at AZLRO rally 2013. And Jeff A, the editor of Rovers North Magazine. We'd chatted on the phone and online about my stories of the love/hate relationship with my own rover.



Sean bounces around, finding tools, pulling out spare parts, the hood up, the umbrella held above the distributor, and even passes around beers as we, well, Jeff tunes up this slow old new-to-Sean's-family vehicle. The rain continues and snow and sleet threaten to come down later that night. It didn't matter, we talked, laughed, shared ideas and drinks. Jeff recommended tires for my own rover. Ian smiles and nods, happy with his own comfortable Dormobile and the heater cranking away inside.

 

[Sleam]

With warning from a friend who didn't come to Expo (weather put him off, oh, and a new to him Unimog persuaded him to stay home), I was somewhat prepared for the cold. But not for the rain, I don't have any real rain gear.



I hid in the tent with a beer and a book for a while after setting us up for the night.





Long johns, socks, t shirt, long sleeved tee, sweatshirt, down sleeping bag, two other regular sleeping bags, and a blanket. I was pretty comfortable that first night it snowed. Oliver wasn't though. He woke me up shivering so I donated a blanket and cuddled. The two other dogs joined us sometime during the early hours.

 

[Sleam]

After talking, listening, enjoying all the stories, I'm tempted to ask to be part of some roundtables next year, maybe even teach some classes, based on my lifelong experiences writing, traveling about the communities I discover, photographing, publishing, exploring the US alone with a dog (or three) and my latest blog writing about such endevours. Anyway, that's the thinking as a result of this weekend with like-minded folk.







We took a hike on Sunday afternoon and came around a corner in the forest and saw the gathering in the distance.




I'll post more of how simply I camp, and of the journey back later on as that took me along Mogollon Rim Road which was phenomenally beautiful. I'm so glad Kelly and James recommended me taking the time for one last dirt road before heading home.

 

[1leglance]

great write up and perspective
Always nice to have more panelist to talk about what works for them

 

[mkitchen]

What books?

I, for one, have enjoyed your musings and would love to get the chance to reads some more of your essays/writings. What and where would I find more?
The above is a great thread with a comfortable and winsome writing style.
Mikey

 

[toddz69]

Great thread - looking forward to hearing more!

Todd Z.

 

[OverlandKyle]

I, for one, have enjoyed your musings and would love to get the chance to reads some more of your essays/writings. What and where would I find more?
The above is a great thread with a comfortable and winsome writing style.
Mikey

May I suggest "living the dream" and " when nobody's looking"..... books of Sleam that I enjoyed very much given that I'm a former resident of New Mexico