Barn Door for JK factory hardtops

[jscherb]

Whoah!

I saw that first picture, and all I could think of was Breaking Bad...

On demand pumps are definitely the better choice (imo).

I'm very impressed with these pumps - they only run when water flow is demanded, they draw little current when they are running, the flow rate and pressure is good for these applications, AND they're inexpensive.

 

[jscherb]

Two potential spigots for the Trail Kitchen sink have arrived:

I'm also waiting on a folding spigot, that hasn't shown up yet.

These tests are using a different pump than the video I posted yesterday, this pump is a bit less expensive than the one yesterday but has similar specs and features.



Next I'll make mounts to install the pump in the Jeep and a spigot on the sink.

 

[jscherb]

I'm in the process of making up some Trail Kitchen power panels for testing. After I wire them one will go in my Jeep to replace the earlier version I've been using for the past few months.

These aren't the final colors, but beggars can't be choosers - I went to the local fab shop to get some metal to make the panel boxes and they had some pre-finished red and purple aluminum scraps in their scrap bin that were large enough for this project so that how they ended this color. I'll paint them black eventually.

Also got word this morning that the sample folding faucet I've been waiting for will ship today or tomorrow.

 

[jgaz]

Just watched the video of the hose nozzle connected to the pump. As I stated earlier, I don't know that I'd be interested in a sink but dang, that hose nozzle performance looks more inviting than a sun shower.

I might have to rethink my simple set up.

 

[jscherb]

I've wired the new power system for the Trail Kitchen. I designed it in two parts, both of which can be used separately or together.

On the left is the power panel. It's got 2 outlets, two USB ports and voltage and amperage displays. It connects to the fridge battery and can be used standalone to power the fridge from that battery. It could also be mounted anywhere else in the Jeep and run directly to the main battery if there isn't a second battery in the Jeep. For this prototype I've made a clip on the side of the panel to attach it to the fridge battery tray - it slips in place and can be removed just as quickly if it's not needed when the kitchen isn't in the Jeep.

On the right is the Jeep power harness. It connects to the main battery and switched power in the TIPM and charges the fridge battery and powers the power panel when the Jeep is running. It could be used separately without the fridge or power panel to charge a second battery, or just to provide switched power in the back of the Jeep without the power panel.

There's no splicing or drilling to install either of these.

As soon as I have time I'll get them installed in the Jeep. I'm wiring a second one for additional testing in another Jeep.

 

[jscherb]

In this photo I'm doing an initial test of the power panel. It's being powered by a benchtop power supply and the plug in the bottom outlet is for one of the sink pumps I'm testing. it shows the pump is drawing 0.63 amps.

 

[jscherb]

The new Trail Kitchen power panel installed in the Jeep. In this photo I'm charging my phone.

I haven't installed the charging harness yet; the power panel is connected to the battery and fully functional but the battery won't be charged until I install the charging harness, which I hope to do in the next few days.

In this photo I'm verifying that Watt's Law applies to the USB outlet... I've got a separate USB volt/amp meter plugged in to the USB outlet, and the phone is plugged into the meter. Watt's Law governs power, voltage and current: P (power) = E (voltage) * I (current). That says that the USB current at 5 volts drawn by the phone should be about 12/5 of the current drawn at 12v by the panel. The phone display is off so overall current draw is down to 0.11 amps on the panel. The phone is drawing 0.23 amps from the USB outlet, so allowing for the power needed to run the LED displays and some voltage losses from the power conversion in the USB outlet, Watt's Law seems to be in force (it isn't called a Law for nothing )... [Edit: I wasn't thinking when I was typing and typed Ohm's Law instead of Watt's Law - thanks to Comanche Scott for pointing out my error, I've fixed it].

The two USB outlets are rated to put out 2.1a and 1.0a, so the 3.1 amps @ about 5 volts that the two USB outlets can put out will draw less than 1.5 amps at 12.6 volts.

In my experience, the fridge uses a max of 4 amps, and the sink pumps I've been testing don't ever seem to draw more than 3 amps, so 4 + 3 + 1.5 - 8.5 amps total. I'll fuse the power panel for 10 amps.

 

[Zeep]

Look'n good Jeff.
Starting to get crowded back there!

 

[jscherb]

I installed the Trail Kitchen Charging Kit this morning, everything works as designed. In this photo the Jeep is running and the power panel is showing the charging voltage.

Look'n good Jeff.
Starting to get crowded back there!

Thanks. Just making use of every available space .

 

[jscherb]

Scherb,

You need the Powertank sports bar molle bracket to extended your mounting location up the side and above the secondary battery location.

Plus with the molle bracket's design it can be used on the left, right or both sides of the sports bar which is what we're going to do, once we reach that junction. One may need to cut the lower tank mounting position off the bracket/plate in order for it to correctly fit above the secondary battery.

Thanks but I don't know how that would make sense in my Jeep since I'd have to remove my battery/ammo can mounts in order for those to fit, or modify that product to fit with my mounts. If I wanted to block the view out of my side windows with something like that (I don't), rather than modify a product that costs $130 per side that I'd be cutting and throwing half of away I would design something inexpensive that would mount above my existing battery/ammo can mounts.

If people think that a Molle panel that mounts in that space is a good idea let me know... I don't want it in my Jeep but would it be a worthwhile product? I probably could design something that would retail for about half of what the Powertank product sells for.

 

[jscherb]

I received the third and final spigot and another pump for testing for the Trail Kitchen sink. I like this spigot best - it folds down for storage. Also different in this test is the water source is a 2-gallon Rotopax, for the other tests I was using a 1-gallon Rubican. And this is the sink I'll be using with the kitchen, I'm checking the reach of the spigot into the sink.


This being the spigot I'll be going with I'll mount it at the sink and I'll install a pump in the Jeep for more testing.

 

[jscherb]

I mounted a sink pump in the Jeep for testing this morning. Fits nicely behind the Molle panel under the battery. The simple aluminum mounting plate allows the pump to easily be mounted on the Molle panel, and should work with most any metal Molle panel.

Haven't mounted the spigot at the sink yet, but here's quick a hose test.


Water source for the hose test is a 2 gallon Rotopax. The Rotopax can also mount to the Molle panel, so if all that was wanted was a powered water source without the full kitchen, this configuration could be used.

The kitchen battery wouldn't be necessary for this application, the Power Panel could be used without the battery, or on a JKU the pump could be plugged into the factory rear power outlet.

 

[rubicon91]

very well, I'm currently "letting you know" that we'll be looking into mounting two of these on the sports bar at the rear of our. The idea is that why take time creating something when it's already been developed. Sure we have contacts that could make something like this for us. but I'd rather spend the money on a products which has already been tested. As for blocking ones view, your rear storage system completely obstructs ones view out the rear view window more so than my measly little molle bracket.

So complaining about how we're going to use this molle panel as compared to your tailgate storage tray is meaningless. Our objective is to avoid placing anything on the exterior of the jeep or at least reducing the amount of large items within any given area. If one can get away with this.. the spear tire should be relocated or lowered just so viewing would be at it's optimal.

My suggestion of the molle panel located above the battery would give a mounting location for the all those dials & LED readouts and plug ins, instead of something throw together mounted on the side of the battery, which begs to be hit then broken. Either integrate the LED read out panel into your current setup of consider a molle panel as I suggested.

let me edit and say

BADGE,

Completely speechless at the AUDACITY of some people!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[jscherb]

Thanks to Comanche Scott for pointing out an error I made in post 3001 of this thread a few days ago. I apparently wasn't thinking when I typed "Ohm's Law", I should have typed "Watt's Law". The math in the post was correct as originally written, just the name of the law was wrong. I know better, just wasn't thinking I guess. I've corrected the post.

Thanks Scott.

 

[Dendy Jarrett]

Let's act like Gentlemen and always take the high road, please. Expedition Portal thanks you.