Barn Door for JK factory hardtops

[jscherb]

I can’t wait to get this and the tire cover. !!!

They haven't given me a release date for the Tactical Spare Cover yet but I would guess it would be within the next two months. The latest update I have from them on the SpareHopper bag was sometime in February but that was a few months ago and I haven't had any update on that since then. As info comes to me I'll pass it on, and I'm sure they'll send out an email to their mailing list announcing availability.

 

[jscherb]

Yesterday I molded the first Auxiliary Gauge/Switch Panel. A summary of the process, clockwise from upper left...

Top Left: The mold has been trimmed and is ready for use.
Top Right: The mold has been waxed and shot with PVA mold release.
Bottom Right: Gelcoat has been applied to the mold surface.
Bottom Left: Fiberglass layup is complete.

First thing this morning I popped the panel out of the mold:

In this photo I've done a preliminary trimming to remove the rough edges. I haven't washed the mold release off yet (the green stuff).

Next I'll make holes in the panel for a test selection of gauges and switches and I'll paint the panel black - ideally I would have molded this with black gelcoat instead of white, but I didn't have any black gelcoat on hand and it wasn't worth buying a quart when only about 3 ounces are needed for this part, so I'll paint it black.

This photo shows a generic template I made for making holes for an assortment of gauges and switches, it gets attached to the panel with rubber cement during the drilling/cutting of the holes. I'll probably use a slightly different arrangement and I'll make another template for the arrangement I decide on.

More photos to come.

 

[ITTOG]

Yesterday I molded the first Auxiliary Gauge/Switch Panel. A summary of the process, clockwise from upper left...

Top Left: The mold has been trimmed and is ready for use.
Top Right: The mold has been waxed and shot with PVA mold release.
Bottom Right: Gelcoat has been applied to the mold surface.
Bottom Left: Fiberglass layup is complete.

First thing this morning I popped the panel out of the mold:

In this photo I've done a preliminary trimming to remove the rough edges. I haven't washed the mold release off yet (the green stuff).

Next I'll make holes in the panel for a test selection of gauges and switches and I'll paint the panel black - ideally I would have molded this with black gelcoat instead of white, but I didn't have any black gelcoat on hand and it wasn't worth buying a quart when only about 3 ounces are needed for this part, so I'll paint it black.

This photo shows a generic template I made for making holes for an assortment of gauges and switches, it gets attached to the panel with rubber cement during the drilling/cutting of the holes. I'll probably use a slightly different arrangement and I'll make another template for the arrangement I decide on.

More photos to come.

What kind of fiberglass did you use, ie mat, weave, etc?

I may to make a 8' x 12' cover for my hot tub once I finish my slide in camper. I use "may" because the gelcoat step really turns me off. I hate painting so much.

 

[jscherb]

What kind of fiberglass did you use, ie mat, weave, etc?

I may to make a 8' x 12' cover for my hot tub once I finish my slide in camper. I use "may" because the gelcoat step really turns me off. I hate painting so much.

I used 3 layers of 3/4 oz. fibeglass mat with one layer of 1.5 oz. mat. The final part ended up being thicker than it needs to be for this application, so when I make another one I'll just do 3 layers of 3/4 oz. mat with a layer of 1.5 oz. mat only on the mounting flanges for extra strength there.

About gelcoat, for a very small part like this, brushing the gelcoat onto the surface of the mold is really the only choice, I use disposable brushes from Harbor Freight.

For all other parts - hardtops, fenders, etc., the best way to get a consistent layer of gelcoat applied is with a gelcoat gun. I've been using an E&S Model 100 Gelcoat Dump/Spray Gun from U.S. Composites model (http://uscomposites.com/equipment.html) since I began fiberglass projects over 10 years ago and it's worked great. It's not terribly expensive and well worth the investment because of the high quality gelcoat application is provides.

While I'm on the topic of spraying (and Harbor Freight), I use a cheap HF spray gun for applying PVA Mold Release. PVA really needs to be sprayed in order to get a consistent layer that will protect the mold, allow easy release of the part from the mold and be a smooth enough layer so imperfections in the PVA layer won't show up in the final part. I sprayed the PVA in the mold for this part:

Many people are intimidated by fiberglass work, but it's really quite easy if you follow a few simple rules. I think if you can successfully bake a cake you can make a fiberglass part .

 

[DCH109]

Many people are intimidated by fiberglass work, but it's really quite easy if you follow a few simple rules. I think if you can successfully bake a cake you can make a fiberglass part .

Well I cannot bake a cake worth a damn. But I can say fiberglass work is fun, easy and you can do amazing things with it.
I have mostly done repairs with it. From vehicles to boats (even a vintage Maggoilina Roof top tent shell) it is easy to work with if you take your time and like you said follow some simple rules.

 

[jscherb]

I finished the auxiliary gauge/switch panel. The gauge, switch and USB outlet in it are just random parts I had on hand that I installed to illustrate what could be done with the panel. I only had one switch handy so the other three switch locations have blanks in them.

It's designed so that the tray on top of the dash is still usable.

Posed in the JKU, it's just setting in place, not screwed in for these photos.

I posed it in the LJ as well, I've posted those photos in my LJ thread.

 

[14JKURX]

I like it!

 

[BOHICA]

I finished the auxiliary gauge/switch panel. The gauge, switch and USB outlet in it are just random parts I had on hand that I installed to illustrate what could be done with the panel. I only had one switch handy so the other three switch locations have blanks in them.

It's designed so that the tray on top of the dash is still usable.

Posed in the JKU, it's just setting in place, not screwed in for these photos.

I posed it in the LJ as well, I've posted those photos in my LJ thread.

Looks nice. Another option could be "like" the FJ Cruiser...Temperature, Inclinometer, Altimeter, etc.

 

[jscherb]

They haven't given me a release date for the Tactical Spare Cover yet but I would guess it would be within the next two months. The latest update I have from them on the SpareHopper bag was sometime in February but that was a few months ago and I haven't had any update on that since then. As info comes to me I'll pass it on, and I'm sure they'll send out an email to their mailing list announcing availability.

I haven't been told an estimated release date for the Tactical Spare Cover, but they're apparently working on it quickly. I got a message from OO this morning that they're sending me a 32" preproduction sample, with a catch though. Sometimes they do this to me - they sewed a sample but didn't have time to source the bungee cord that goes inside the back hem to secure the cover to the tire, so I'm getting a sample without the bungee cord installed.

I checked my sewing supplies and found that I've got bungee cord left over from years ago when I sewed the first prototypes the Retrofit picked up. So when the cover arrives, I'll add the bungee and then install the cover on a Jeep, test it and post photos. Should be here sometime next week.

 

[jscherb]

Updates on a few things...

In early December I posted an idea for making a rack-mounted changing room that used standard shelf brackets and tracks:
https://expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/barn-door-for-jk-factory-hardtops.127687/post-3068871

I made up a set of mounting brackets based on standard shelf track and bolted them to my rack. I said at the time I wasn't sure if I was going to complete the project and that I just made the brackets to satisfy my creative curiosity. Pictures of the brackets mounted to the rack are in the post linked above.

I came across some nice water resistant camo fabric on clearance at Hobby Lobby for only $4.00 a yard that would be perfect for a changing room so I bought enough to do the project. Some of it unrolled on the floor of the sewing room:

Today I finished up a set of support bars; they're 1/2" x 1" aluminum tubing pop-riveted into standard shelf brackets that I cut a bit shorter. There are holes along the top with plastic automotive push-pins which will secure the straps. I found 30 parachute buckles on eBay so I picked them up, and I've lots of of 1" webbing on hand and a 6'-long zipper so I've got everything I need to complete the project.

And unrelated to the above, today a preproduction Tactical Spare Cover arrived from OO. They used brown webbing on this one, not sure of that's because I asked them to use the heaviest webbing they had or because they like the brown accent. Hanging on a chair in the sewing room:

Weather permitting, I'll install it tomorrow. Photos to come.

 

[jscherb]

One more thing that came in the package from OO today... they sell a number of different bags that hang on the back of the front seats and shortly after I did the zipper attachment design for them I also did a zipper attachment for the fold-down rear seats in the JKU. Since the headrests don't pull out of the sockets like the front seat ones do, it had to install differently. It also had to deal with the seat folding down. They finally decided to put that zipper attachment in production and they sent me some preproduction samples.

I only have half of the back seat in my JKU and on that side the kitchen battery is right behind the seat, so I had to pose a photo with the seat tilted forward a little bit..

Seat folded down, the bag can stay in place:

This won't be useful in my JKU because of the kitchen battery interference and not having the other side of the seat installed, but I'm sure some people will find it useful to hang storage bags back there.

 

[jscherb]

I tested the preproduction Tactical Spare Cover on my salty JKU this morning. The fit is excellent. There's one small sewing correction to make - the MOLLE on the sides starts slightly higher on one side than the other so if the SpareSide bags in the photo don't look even that's why.

OO tells me they used brown webbing because it matches the brown accent color on the bags. Any thoughts about brown webbing vs. black?

For the SpareHopper bag the other day I tested with two gallon jugs of milk and a 42-pound cinder block. A cinder block is unfortunately slightly too large to fit in the SpareSide bags, so I used brick instead.


I put 6 bricks in the bag, each on weighs 7 pounds for a total of 42 pounds. I put one of the bricks in this paper bag to weigh it:

I don't think OO will rate these bags for 42 pounds when they go into production, but I think it's a good idea to test them at that weight anyway .

 

[Imbuere]

I’ve not read all 350+ pages of this thread… but I am wondering if a JL barn door has ever been discussed.

On the JK version is it just the single latch that provides pressure all over the added barn door? If so, ever have any water leak issues?

I did see a JL rear door accessory attachment around page 300. Did that ever go to production?

 

[jscherb]

I’ve not read all 350+ pages of this thread… but I am wondering if a JL barn door has ever been discussed.

A JL Barn Door has been discussed and I've done some preliminary design work but since I don't have a JL, I haven't made the molds for one. If I had a JL, I would definitely make a barn door for it.

On the JK version is it just the single latch that provides pressure all over the added barn door? If so, ever have any water leak issues?

The barn door assembly is very rigid and yes, the factory latch is all that's required to keep the barn door securely closed. No, there haven't been any leak issues, it seals just as well as the factory liftgate.

I did see a JL rear door accessory attachment around page 300. Did that ever go to production?

Around page 300 I was working on an system that used keyhole-type attachments for various accessories like a table and MOLLE panels, is this what you're talking about?

I never presented that system to any hardware companies so no, it never went into production.

I did a prototype JL tailgate table with an integrated hinged MOLLE panel and at the SEMA show last November a company expressed some interest and there have been a few followup discussions since then but nothing definite yet.

The only "tailgate attachment" design I've done so far that's in production is the HD MOLLE Tailgate Panel from Overland Outfitters:

 

[jscherb]

I've been working on the Changing Room idea and completed the straps yesterday. The next step is to add the fabric. The rack is hanging from the garage door rails above the Jeep; I'm working on it up there. Sorry for the photo quality, it's hard to get good photos amidst all the other stuff in the garage and since the rack isn't on the Jeep and it was 10 degrees outside this morning I wasn't about to work outside.

One thing I need to decide before I start cutting and sewing fabric - which way should the zipper go? I can either put the starter end up top, which means you would move the slider down to close the room, or put the starter at the bottom, which means you would move the slider up to close the room. I can think of arguments for both directions. What do you guys think? Zip up or zip down? Let me know, I want to decide this soon so I can begin sewing the fabric.

The "DIY shelf bracket mounts" for the changing room bars seem to be working very well. A year or so ago I designed and built a powered shower and I included a way for it to mount to the rack but that wasn't as quick and easy as the shelf brackets are so I think I'll update that to use the shelf bracket mount idea.