Basic van buildout questions

[dman93]

After decades of mostly tent camping, out of cars, SUV’s and lately pickups, with brief detours into a pop-top Westfalia, a FlipPac, and a soft RTT, plus a fair amount of motorcycle camping and a few backpacking trips, we have recently ordered a van. The goal is to have secure, weatherproof sleeping and storage for gear and mountain bikes, with the ability to hang out and cook inside if the weather is poor. Long wheelbase high roof, not extended. The van is due to arrive in a few months and we’re starting the build planning.

We know we want a raised bed with room underneath for at least two bikes, maybe on a slide. We have a a Dometic CFX toploader fridge and plan to use that for now, powered by our Dometic PLB40 battery and folding 130W panel. Propane camp stove on our folding camp table will do for cooking inside and out; pump sprayer bottle and dish pans for washing up. The bed and bike storage, plus a roof vent, curtains and insulation, should be enough for Phase 1, along with tie downs and/or tracks to secure our usual camping boxes and bags. Eventually, I’d like to add a 12V water pump and sink, and an awning. The big question is about paneling and cabinets. I hate to add tons of wood, and I worry about rattles and failures on rough roads. I remember that’s what limited speed of our Vanagon off-pavement. I’ve seen some brands of soft fabric cabinets, and wondered about duffle bags and cargo net alternatives ... how well do these work? Or are my fears about wood structures unfounded? Use is for multi-day to multi-week dispersed camping trips in the western US and Baja, no round-the-world, but no hookup campgrounds either. Opinions welcome, ideally based on experiences. Thanks.

 

[luthj]

Rattles and whatnot of the cabinets themselves aren't an issue with proper fasteners and adhesives. Same goes for packing stuff into cabinets, if you use good containers and packing methods rattling can be kept to a minimum.

Wood works fine if you use proper joints, ideally with pins and glue. Metal brackets helps as well. Avoid MDF or similar materials. High grade plywood is lighter and stronger than cheapo-crap. For a non-woodworker approach, you can use aluminum angle and plywood screws (plus adhesive) or even through bolts in the 10-24 size. Not a sexy, but very durable.

 

[VanIsle_Greg]

There are a couple of van conversion builds that I think you should look at. One is a YouTuber called 'Paul the Punter' and his van build is pretty much textbook what I would do. It is a HIGH end custom build by a professional shop, but there is a lot to pull inspiration from. I would suggest watching his build.

Also another one to look into is Jarrod Tocci, and his 'Ghost Van 2' build. Another YouTuber, but his stuff is pretty tight and this van is sweeeet.

Lots of van builders talk about squeeks and rattles and how to prevent them. I think spray foam insulation or LOTS of insulation and using flexible construction adhesive like Sika will help keep the squeeks and rattles down. Noting infuriates me like a squeeky vehicle.

 

[VanIsle_Greg]

Oh, forgot to ask... what did you order?

 

[dman93]

Thanks for the comments. I am sure wood can be made to work, but I’m curious about alternatives. Paul the Punter’s build (well, built for him by the guys in BC) are gorgeous but seem way overkill. Though I’m sure I’d appreciate the workmanship and details, and I got some good ideas from his bike mounting setup.

 

[Cummins_expo]

Depends on what the goal is or your van. How long do you plan to travel at a given time? Most youtube and Instagram build suffer from to much Pinterest inspiration. Heavy, overbuilt, and impractical for any kind off road or even washboard road. Get you van throw a blow up matt in it and take a trip. See what kind of creature comforts you would like in your van. Is it just base camp? Something you plan extended living in? For material look at good quality birch as it is light and holds screw and glue really well. For wall paneling you can keep it simple - really thin ply with foam backed liner or go slightly fancy and stronger with marine tweed. Companies like RB Components, AdWagon basically sell you these panels. Save lots of money if yo have the time and make your own. For cabinets you can to small framing with 1x3 and face it with thinner ply. Or build out with all thinner ply but take into account most hardware likes 3/4.

Alternative you can run something like the Aluminum galley cabinets from companies like Van Compass. A few other companies offer aluminum cabinets. This will be light and robust but feel a little cold.

 

[luthj]

Typical home style cabinets from wood are a bad idea. Marine style frame and face, especially with plastic totes works. My cabinets are very light. I think my galley is like 35 lbs empty with sink and stove.

 

[dman93]

@luthj and @Cummins_expo thanks for the comments about 1x3’s and plywood cabinet construction. I see so many linear feet of 2x4 and even 2x6 and 2x8 in some build reports and video’s I think even my EcoBoost will be struggling to haul it around (I have ordered a Transit). I’d rather use my payload for good food, water and beer. The other reason to keep things simple is that I’m not a cabinet maker or even very good with wood, but some combination of plywood and aluminum should fall within my skills.

 

[luthj]

Here is my old galley. Note there is no back panel. I used high ply count 7/16-1/2" plywood. Joints are Kreg socket screws and glue. Some steel angle brackets as well. After 90k miles (about 10-15k of dirt, including australia), some of the smaller joints had started to separate a bit. I should have use dowels (possibly knurled steel). No issues with anything falling apart. It was attached to the wall with 1/4-20 rivnuts into the body tubes. Then a 1/8" aluminum angle bracket, and another bolt through the plywood.


IMG_20200719_094649522

In order to gain a bit more storage, I am building a new one out of welded aluminum. Not cheap, and a bit heavier, but I am gaining another 1.5-2 cubic feet of storage.

 

[North]

Similar to what has been recommended, I used 12mm (1/2") cabinet grade plywood with glued and pocket screwed joints. Plenty of time on bumpy and washboarded access roads including Baja, but no true wheeling (why anybody would want to do this with a built van, I have no idea). No issues. I limited squeaks by allowing clearance for body flex between walls and cabinets. Added carpet on contact points to eliminate squeaks further.

 

[RVflyfish]

Typical home style cabinets from wood are a bad idea. Marine style frame and face, especially with plastic totes works.

Luth can you expand on what you mean by marine style frame and face?

 

[luthj]

Luth can you expand on what you mean by marine style frame and face?

I will try to find some photos in a bit. This method consists of making a light skeleton of 2x0.5" or similar square wood. This outlines the cabinet and gives it primary strength. Then a 1/8-3/16" strong plywood is glued/screwed over the frame. This forms the skin. The resulting cabinet is light and strong. However it is possible to bust through the thin skin, so care needs to be taken in at-risk areas. Or when heavy items will be placed into the cabinets. Its possible to do a hybrid where aluminum angle stock is used as the "frame" and the skin is glued or screwed into the aluminum extrusion profiles.

If you go frameless, and use the skin as the primary load path, typically you need to go with 3/8-1/2" plywood. Then use some bracing to get strength (like the galley I posted above. These can be comparable in weight to frame and skin cabinets.