Basic Wire Crimping Kit Suggestions?

[coolfeet]

I am looking for a good quality basic wire crimping kit for connecting the ends of the wiring from the charge controller to the solar panel on the roof of van. I am also going to solder a 4 ft length of 12 awg wire to the house battery from an auxiliary Ford trailer battery circuit. I need to crimp a connector to this too.

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[John Shaffer]

Look at Anderson power pole stuff. But maybe since you are doing this on the exterior you might use a different type of connector. My kit has a wire stripper, TriCrimp for powerpole 15,30, 45 amp, a power pole crimp for 50 and 75 amp and a MC4 crimp for all the rest.


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2008 Toyota 4Runner. Full time 12v mod, Rhino rack, Thule box, HIDs, front hitch, skid plates, Sliders, Aliner Classic 2014 camp trailer

 

[coolfeet]

Here is what I am looking for:

Quick connect/disconnect coming out of the battery box from solar charge controller.

Any suggestions for high quality 12 gauge wire for connecting to the vehicle's hot 12 volt?

I found these Anderson Power Pole connectors. Looks easy. Is this what you are suggesting?

 

[Semi-Hex]

Anderson power poles are good for connecting in line for all sizes of wire but they don't have lug or u shaped ends. I use Anderson all the time, they are pricey but very good, the others I use a crimp, solder and shrink wrap.
https://powerwerx.com

 

[unreng]

recommended reading

10 - 22 gauge wiring:

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/wire_termination <-- Read this website to really understand crimping 10 - 22 gauge wiring.

The following are 10-22 gauge terminal disconnect kits

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-3M-HEAT...016240?hash=item51e298cef0:g:bYoAAOSwYIhWhbm2 - Solderless heatshrink terminal kit - good for single wire circuits

http://www.ebay.com/itm/450pc-Jumbo...m1a1162fc52:m:mGdcK6r8t3H4QtjkZ3aVhqw&vxp=mtr - Packard / GM terminal kit - good for multiple wire circuits

http://www.amazon.com/Cobra-Wire-12..._UL160_SR160,160_&refRID=0H0G9YC6VKGSHF6R86DM - 12 gauge tinned wire 100'

4/0 - 8 gauge wiring:

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/battery_cables <-- Read this website for battery cable crimping 4/0 - 8 gauge wiring

As far as heavy duty terminals - Anderson Power Products are great for creating quick disconnects

http://toolmonger.com/2007/02/16/test-to-destruction-crimp-terminals/ - another website with a terminal pullout test

Use the appropriate terminal for the application. Depending upon budget, consider tinned marine wire and terminals.

If pondering any other electrical products / projects, would recommend perusing Blue Sea Systems catalog - http://catalog.bluesea.com/index.html#I

 

[DanCooper]

Re: Recommended reading

10 - 22 gauge wiring:

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/wire_termination <-- Read this website to really understand crimping 10 - 22 gauge wiring.

This reference is invaluable for many reasons, but specifically regarding soldering vs. crimping. After reading all six pages, including the section on soldering, you (the OP), may reconsider whether the use of solder on your large gauge wire for connecting the solar panel to the battery is a good idea.

 

[4x4junkie]

This reference is invaluable for many reasons, but specifically regarding soldering vs. crimping. After reading all six pages, including the section on soldering, you (the OP), may reconsider whether the use of solder on your large gauge wire for connecting the solar panel to the battery is a good idea.

Properly soldered terminals are not less reliable than properly-crimped terminals... infact quite the opposite (I'm talking soldered-only terminals, or terminals that are crimped, then soldered... Not terminals where the wire is pre-tinned with solder before crimping, that is very wrong and is not how you should do any type of connection).

I've read all the folklore on the internet telling how soldered connections are inferior to crimps in so many more ways than one... Only one has any hint of merit, which is about solder wicking up the strands making the connection stiffer and more prone to breaking due to wire movement (flexing). This is easily mitigated by simply securing your wiring (I don't think leaving wires hanging and flopping around is good practice with crimped connections either, so it kindof is a moot point really).

So I'd say (to the OP) save your $$$ on a crimper, and just find whatever size terminals it is you need. Then get out your soldering iron (or gun, or propane torch if need be) and some 60/40 solder and solder all of it. Done properly (and your wiring secured well) you WILL NOT have a problem with it. Most every terminal I've seen will very readily accept solder. After 30 years of doing it this way, if there was an issue to be found I'm sure I would've found it by now.


And FWIW, that page wasn't completely anti-solder, it's author does suggest post-soldering of crimped terminals can be done (obviously disagreeing to some extent with the quote from AMP), though he also says it is unnecessary (yet ever since i began doing this to pre-crimped terminals on mine I've not had another terminal failure since, whereas before a good 10-15% were failing due to resistance). The way the page is worded is a little confusing though. It correctly puts it's greatest emphasis on how wrong pre-tinning wires with solder before crimping is.