Best expo tyre?

[Christian]

I've talked twice with Michelin and they've promised to call back which hasn't happened... They don't even have them in their catalogue so the customer service guy had to do some research to find out what I was talking about!

I've been on UK and German ebay and found a single set of 20" and that's it...

We got a Toyota 1KZ-T engine and a R150F gearbox + transfer for it. But it hasn't been installed yet. I'm working on making a gear shift for it at the moment.

 

[Toy-Roverlander]

Isn't the TGB13 a C303 but in 6x6? If so, wasn't it possible to fit certain Unimog rims to those axles? That way you get 20" rims, that might ease the search for tyres a bit like 900X20. I know the Dutch army used to use those tyrs that look like the Simex Jungle Trekker, but I can't think of the name.
They came in 900X20, or like we have them at work, 1400X20. Those are truly huge. Forget about getting a flat then, you wouldn't be able to lift one of those.

I would see if you can get hold of that aircrafttyres.com place, they seem to have the XZL's in 900x16 (or their metric 255x100x16 equivalant).

Have a seat though when they tell you what they cost
I believe it was something in the region of €250 a tyre.

(EDIT)
I found this on he aircrafttyres.com website:
We deliver the 9.00R16 XZL all over Europe.

Price retreaded 255/100R16 or 9.00R16 :
gross (bruto) price 210 euro excluding 19% Dutch VAT.
Call for dealer prices!

Specifications 9.00R16 or 255/100R16 XZL(±):
Width : 255 mm
Diameter: 923 mm
Weight : 40 kg

(http://www.aircrafttyres.com/900r16__255_100r16 michelin XZL.htm)

That's the cold retreaded one. They also have them brand spanking new.


Don't forget that these tyres are incredibly heavy. You'll struggle to lift and fit a steel rim with a 900X16 on it on the hub, never mind the 1100X16. Something to remember for when you're out in the sticks

Have a look in this page of the aircrafttyres.com site, there're lots of different brands and sizes: http://www.aircrafttyres.com/truck 4x4 tyres.htm

At least you know you got one of the very best tyres. They are incredibly tough in the sidewalls and tread. You propably might never experience a flat with those on, especially if your vehicle weighs around the 3500kg and has 6wheels...
I want the XZL in 750X16 on my Land Rover. They're just the best tyre for expedition work.

 

[M.Bas]

Isn't the TGB13 a C303 but in 6x6? If so, wasn't it possible to fit certain Unimog rims to those axles? That way you get 20" rims, that might ease the search for tyres a bit like 900X20. I know the Dutch army used to use those tyrs that look like the Simex Jungle Trekker, but I can't think of the name.
They came in 900X20, or like we have them at work, 1400X20. Those are truly huge. Forget about getting a flat then, you wouldn't be able to lift one of those.

I would see if you can get hold of that aircrafttyres.com place, they seem to have the XZL's in 900x16 (or their metric 255x100x16 equivalant).

Have a seat though when they tell you what they cost
I believe it was something in the region of €250 a tyre.

(EDIT)
I found this on he aircrafttyres.com website:
We deliver the 9.00R16 XZL all over Europe.

Price retreaded 255/100R16 or 9.00R16 :
gross (bruto) price 210 euro excluding 19% Dutch VAT.
Call for dealer prices!

Specifications 9.00R16 or 255/100R16 XZL(±):
Width : 255 mm
Diameter: 923 mm
Weight : 40 kg

(http://www.aircrafttyres.com/900r16__255_100r16 michelin XZL.htm)

That's the cold retreaded one. They also have them brand spanking new.


Don't forget that these tyres are incredibly heavy. You'll struggle to lift and fit a steel rim with a 900X16 on it on the hub, never mind the 1100X16. Something to remember for when you're out in the sticks

Have a look in this page of the aircrafttyres.com site, there're lots of different brands and sizes: http://www.aircrafttyres.com/truck 4x4 tyres.htm

At least you know you got one of the very best tyres. They are incredibly tough in the sidewalls and tread. You propably might never experience a flat with those on, especially if your vehicle weighs around the 3500kg and has 6wheels...
I want the XZL in 750X16 on my Land Rover. They're just the best tyre for expedition work.

I asked them about the new ones and the 11.00x16 they list.
The 9.00 is indeed around 250 euro a piece incl tax

The TGB13/C304 is indeed the 6x6 version of the C303.
Unimog rims don't fit because of the bolt pattern. And the standard wheels weigh about 40~50 kg. So chaging a tire is already a challenge (on a standard ambulance/radio truck the spare wheel is located on top of the cab).

My only concern with retreads is that there are some stories about ripping the tread of a retreaded tire with the rear axles.

 

[Christian]

Isn't the TGB13 a C303 but in 6x6? If so, wasn't it possible to fit certain Unimog rims to those axles?

yes, it is a C303 in 6x6. But the wheel pattern does'nt match anything made by any others. the axles are made by Volvo and cannot be comaired to Unimog portals. So unless you mean adapting Unimog axles for the specific Volvo pattern they will not fit.
I have also looked at 20" wheels also because of improved atbility from a more low profile tyre. But they're more than 40" and won't fit the boggie.

Don't forget that these tyres are incredibly heavy. You'll struggle to lift and fit a steel rim with a 900X16 on it on the hub, never mind the 1100X16. Something to remember for when you're out in the sticks

That was one of the reason I even considered the Pro Comps...

Have a look in this page of the aircrafttyres.com site, there're lots of different brands and sizes: http://www.aircrafttyres.com/truck 4x4 tyres.htm

At least you know you got one of the very best tyres. They are incredibly tough in the sidewalls and tread. You propably might never experience a flat with those on, especially if your vehicle weighs around the 3500kg and has 6wheels...
I want the XZL in 750X16 on my Land Rover. They're just the best tyre for expedition work.

Yeah! I think so too! I'm just a bit worried about the weight and the fact that they're designed for a much heavier vehicle...

And the avilability. AND the price!

 

[Christian]

I asked them about the new ones and the 11.00x16 they list.
The 9.00 is indeed around 250 euro a piece incl tax

The TGB13/C304 is indeed the 6x6 version of the C303.
Unimog rims don't fit because of the bolt pattern. And the standard wheels weigh about 40~50 kg. So chaging a tire is already a challenge (on a standard ambulance/radio truck the spare wheel is located on top of the cab).

My only concern with retreads is that there are some stories about ripping the tread of a retreaded tire with the rear axles.

Well we agree, that's for sure! I hadn't seen your reply...
I'm looking forward to the quote on how much the 11/R16 costs.

 

[Toy-Roverlander]

That's right about those wheels. I was confused with the LR101 forward control, you can put 20" Unimog 404 rims onto a 101 Landy.

I don't think it would be wise to choose for a less 'heavier' tyre just for the weight issue. They could well be (a lot) less tough.
Ok, the 900X16 is heavy, ok very heavy, but luckily it's not like you would have to change, and manhandle, them on a regular basis.

I think most of the stories from tread separation are from experiences in the 80's or 90's or something. And I believe that it could be well the case that it happened because people don't often look at tyre pressures. You would hardly see it from sidewall bulging whether it has 2.5bar or 3.5 bar in it.
I don't think it's too bad. Also, your speed won't really be excessive.


And I assume you've got a spare wheel (maybe even 2), so if tread separation happens, let the people you bought them from know, it might be covered under some form of warranty.

But if you're worried about them, didn't aircrafttyres.com have them brand new too, but I'll guess they're a bit dearer.


I would be inclined to take the 900X16 XZL. The 1100X16 is (I believe) too tall (you don't have to go larger for ground clearance, you've allready got portals, of which I'm jealous!!!), they will be a lot heavier too (not something you would want, around 55kg per wheel is allready quite a lot) and they will be very expensive.

Compare the 750X16 which costs around €140 a tyre (so I've been told, I can't back that up) to a 900X16 that costs €250 a tyre. One can only imagine what a 1100X16 would cost .

With the larger tyres speedometer readings will be way off, if that's not allready the case with your Toyo driveline . Will the engine not struggle a bit with the larger tyres?

And another thing.
The 900's are allready rated for 3400kg or something PER tyre, which is the same as your vehicle weight when ready to roll isn't it? That means they don't have to do much, and I wonder how they will react to low tyre pressures for soft sand for instance. I assume they will still bulge, most likely better than 1100's as they are rated to even heavier loads.


Koos

 

[charlieaarons]

The 900s are allready rated for 3400kg or something PER tyre, which is the same as your vehicle weight when ready to roll isn't it? That means they don't have to do much, and I wonder how they will react to low tyre pressures for soft sand for instance. I assume they will still bulge, most likely better than 1100's as they are rated to even heavier loads.


Koos

The 255/100R16XZLs have a double rating, 3400kg per AXLE at 110kph or 4240kg per AXLE at 100kph.
The 11.00R16 XZLs are rated at 4360kg/axle at 110kph.
If you want to figure out matching of drivetrain rpms to tire size, I'd need to know top gear overdrive ratio and total axle reduction ratio (diff times portal).
I'd want rpms at 100kph to be about peak torque rpm plus 20-30%. Or top speed at governed peak hp rpm to be ~120-135 kph. The 255 turns 575 times per mile, the 11.00 538 per mile. Multiply by 0.621 for kms.
Take total top gear ratio (5th gear X diff X portal) X tire rev/mile = rpm @ 60 mph.

Charlie

 

[Christian]

That's right about those wheels. I was confused with the LR101 forward control, you can put 20" Unimog 404 rims onto a 101 Landy.

I don't think it would be wise to choose for a less 'heavier' tyre just for the weight issue. They could well be (a lot) less tough.
Ok, the 900X16 is heavy, ok very heavy, but luckily it's not like you would have to change, and manhandle, them on a regular basis.

I think most of the stories from tread separation are from experiences in the 80's or 90's or something. And I believe that it could be well the case that it happened because people don't often look at tyre pressures. You would hardly see it from sidewall bulging whether it has 2.5bar or 3.5 bar in it.
I don't think it's too bad. Also, your speed won't really be excessive.


And I assume you've got a spare wheel (maybe even 2), so if tread separation happens, let the people you bought them from know, it might be covered under some form of warranty.

But if you're worried about them, didn't aircrafttyres.com have them brand new too, but I'll guess they're a bit dearer.


I would be inclined to take the 900X16 XZL. The 1100X16 is (I believe) too tall (you don't have to go larger for ground clearance, you've allready got portals, of which I'm jealous!!!), they will be a lot heavier too (not something you would want, around 55kg per wheel is allready quite a lot) and they will be very expensive.

Compare the 750X16 which costs around €140 a tyre (so I've been told, I can't back that up) to a 900X16 that costs €250 a tyre. One can only imagine what a 1100X16 would cost .

That's exactly what I'm afraid of!

With the larger tyres speedometer readings will be way off, if that's not allready the case with your Toyo driveline . Will the engine not struggle a bit with the larger tyres?

We are putting brand new instrumentation in. One of the reasons is that the truck is 24 volts originally. But the Toyo engine is 12 volts. And since the original speedo cable doensn't fit the Toyo gearbox we are getting brand new VDO instruments. They have an electronic regulated speedo amongst others.

And another thing.
The 900's are allready rated for 3400kg or something PER tyre, which is the same as your vehicle weight when ready to roll isn't it? That means they don't have to do much, and I wonder how they will react to low tyre pressures for soft sand for instance. I assume they will still bulge, most likely better than 1100's as they are rated to even heavier loads.

Koos

That scares me a bit too. I do not know what the implications are when putting a tyre designed for a much heavier load under a lighter truck. I know the other way around is catastrophic though!

The 255/100R16XZLs have a double rating, 3400kg per AXLE at 110kph or 4240kg per AXLE at 100kph.
The 11.00R16 XZLs are rated at 4360kg/axle at 110kph.
If you want to figure out matching of drivetrain rpms to tire size, I'd need to know top gear overdrive ratio and total axle reduction ratio (diff times portal).
I'd want rpms at 100kph to be about peak torque rpm plus 20-30%. Or top speed at governed peak hp rpm to be ~120-135 kph. The 255 turns 575 times per mile, the 11.00 538 per mile. Multiply by 0.621 for kms.
Take total top gear ratio (5th gear X diff X portal) X tire rev/mile = rpm @ 60 mph.

Charlie

The main reason for choosing the 1100's is the gearing. I have calculated on already. Actually i did before we even bought the truck, let alone the drivetrain!

Here's what I've come up with:

the engine has about 125HP 130 hk @ 3600 rpm og max torque is 287 Nm or 211 lb/ft @ 2000 rpm. Max rev. is 4400. 5 gear is 1:0.838


TGB13 Km/h @ 1000rpm
original tires 27,75
Michelin XZL 11/R16 31,20

With the 11/R16 we will be doing 137 km/h at max rpm.
And at max rpm + 30% (2,600) we will be doing around 80 km/h

 

[Toy-Roverlander]

Now I understand why you want such large tyres, for the gearing. Looks like it's incredibely undergeared.

You say your diesel (I did a google search on it as I didn't know this engine code ) revs to 4400. And even with the 1100's it will only do 137 at max revs.. That's going to hurt your eardrums and fuel economy. It's not much fun cruising on the highway at 90kph with a diesel engine revving it's nuts off..

I used to have 4.7 diffs in my Landy with the Toyo engine and gearbox and it did 2900 revs or something when doing 90. It drove like a tractor. I hardly had to use my brakes, engine compression coupled to a very low gearing did all the braking for me. It was insanely strong with that low gearing but tiring to drive. I changed to 3.54 Range Rover diffs and this is a lot better. I can cruise at 100kph easily (it now does about 2200revs when doing 90), and have enough oomph left to overtake.
But it struggles a bit with hills so my plan is to go to 4.11 diffs (like in the Cruiser) and that should be perfect. That will also fix my speedo problem, I can use it all from a Cruiser.

Anyway,
If I'm correct there are 2 different axle ratios with the C3 range vehicles, a 5something to 1 and a 7something to 1. IIRC the former went into the C303 and the other one into the 6x6's. I don't know where the difference is, whether it's in the portals or in the diff, but if it's in the diff, is it possible to swap them? To get the taller ratio in your axles? Or do you already have the taller ratio?

What transfercase does it have? Marks4wd in Australia (www.marks4wd.com.au) has lots of aftermarket gearing options for the Hilux gearboxes, maybe they have something to raise your gearing. Ususally they lower it for rock crawling and all. I know they do an overdrive for the LC transferboxes.

That would be an option to get your revs down at cruising speed. The price of such a thing might even be covered by the price difference between 1100's and 900's, who knows..


I don't think it's really a bad thing to have tyres that are rated for a much heavier vehicle, besides that they might not bulge out much and they could feel a little stiff and bouncy on the road. But lets face it, you've got a 6x6 that doesn't weigh all that much and if it's sitting on 1100's, I don't think you need to worry about not having floatation on the soft sand.. You might not even have to lower tyre pressures

Depending on price it might be an option to look for another brand of tyre. I don't have any experience with ProComp but I've never heard anything bad about them.
Don't forget that your vehicle weight is not that much and it's carried by 6 wheels with probably very large tyres. That means the don't carry much weight. So even if you would fit a slightly 'lesser' tyre, you might not even experience any problems.

But something like tread life is something to keep in mind too. I've got some really cheap tyres on my Landy, but now after about 12000km they are already quite worn (tread depth is less than half of when new) so cheap isn't always good. 750 XZL's will last a lot longer than this, so even if they are more expensive at first, they will be cheaper in the long run.


Can I ask why you choose for this particular engine/gearbox?

Funny by the way that your vehicle is 24V and the engine 12V, in my situation it's exactly the opposite. Landy is 12V but the 3B toyo engine is 24V, bit of a challenge to get it all to work properly. And having dual batteries means having 4(!!) batteries..

If you had chosen for the 13BT engine that would have been a bit easier I reckon, it's 24V for starters, and as it is a Cruiser engine, there's is LOTS of aftermarket gearing options. You would need the 5speed with split transfer case, but if you find a 13BT complete with gearbox and all it already has that.
Then you can get other transfercase gears, overdrives, underdrives, dual transferboxes, the whole lot..
I must admit, there's lots of stuff for the Hilux gear- and transferboxes as well

 

[Christian]

Now I understand why you want such large tyres, for the gearing. Looks like it's incredibely undergeared.

You say your diesel (I did a google search on it as I didn't know this engine code ) revs to 4400. And even with the 1100's it will only do 137 at max revs.. That's going to hurt your eardrums and fuel economy. It's not much fun cruising on the highway at 90kph with a diesel engine revving it's nuts off..

Well you have to remember this is a truck made to weigh more than 3.5 tonnes. And everything here that weighs more than 3.5 T may not drive above 80 km/h.
The original gearbox behind the Volvo straight-six has a 1.1 ratio in top gear.
The R150F behind the 1KZ-T is 1:0.83 in top gear.
When i drove the donor car home from Oxford in England it rode nice at about 3,200 rpm (Im not going to say what the speed was) but it seemed like the revs the engine liked to operate in.

I used to have 4.7 diffs in my Landy with the Toyo engine and gearbox and it did 2900 revs or something when doing 90. It drove like a tractor. I hardly had to use my brakes, engine compression coupled to a very low gearing did all the braking for me. It was insanely strong with that low gearing but tiring to drive. I changed to 3.54 Range Rover diffs and this is a lot better. I can cruise at 100kph easily (it now does about 2200revs when doing 90), and have enough oomph left to overtake.
But it struggles a bit with hills so my plan is to go to 4.11 diffs (like in the Cruiser) and that should be perfect. That will also fix my speedo problem, I can use it all from a Cruiser.

It's really hard to hit the exact gearing where everything just fits, especially with older diesels, they often have a very narrow rev-band where they work well.

Anyway,
If I'm correct there are 2 different axle ratios with the C3 range vehicles, a 5something to 1 and a 7something to 1. IIRC the former went into the C303 and the other one into the 6x6's. I don't know where the difference is, whether it's in the portals or in the diff, but if it's in the diff, is it possible to swap them? To get the taller ratio in your axles? Or do you already have the taller ratio?

There's actually three!


7.553333:1 7.095555:1 5.992727:1

I have the middle one. You can't put the high one in a 6x6, the prop shaft going from one rear axle to the next won't fit.

What transfercase does it have? Marks4wd in Australia (www.marks4wd.com.au) has lots of aftermarket gearing options for the Hilux gearboxes, maybe they have something to raise your gearing. Ususally they lower it for rock crawling and all. I know they do an overdrive for the LC transferboxes.

That would be an option to get your revs down at cruising speed. The price of such a thing might even be covered by the price difference between 1100's and 900's, who knows..

It's a standard Toyota Landcruiser transfer. From the top of my head I think it's a RF1A but I'm not sure. What I do know is that Mark's have an 8% overdrive for it!
Which as you say might be a really good option!

Another approach would be to take a Toyota Dyna R452 and snatch the 5th gear. As mentioned above the R150F has a 17% overdrive. From what I've read it is possible to use the 5th gear from the R452 and get a 31% overdrive!

I don't think it's really a bad thing to have tyres that are rated for a much heavier vehicle, besides that they might not bulge out much and they could feel a little stiff and bouncy on the road. But lets face it, you've got a 6x6 that doesn't weigh all that much and if it's sitting on 1100's, I don't think you need to worry about not having floatation on the soft sand.. You might not even have to lower tyre pressures

Depending on price it might be an option to look for another brand of tyre. I don't have any experience with ProComp but I've never heard anything bad about them.
Don't forget that your vehicle weight is not that much and it's carried by 6 wheels with probably very large tyres. That means the don't carry much weight. So even if you would fit a slightly 'lesser' tyre, you might not even experience any problems.

But something like tread life is something to keep in mind too. I've got some really cheap tyres on my Landy, but now after about 12000km they are already quite worn (tread depth is less than half of when new) so cheap isn't always good. 750 XZL's will last a lot longer than this, so even if they are more expensive at first, they will be cheaper in the long run.


Can I ask why you choose for this particular engine/gearbox?

Of course! The thing is we are planning on using this vehicle for a
"around-the-world-trip".
So using the original 3.0 straight-six with double Stromberg carbs needing 98 octane leaded fuel just wasn't feasable. I have fiddled with Cruisers before and it is the most widely used 4x4 in the world (I did not say best or anything like it). So to be sure of access to parts most places we opted for a cruiser engine.
The original engine and gearbox combo is very short so it had to a 4 cylinder. The original engine has 117hp so a new one should not have less but not too much more as not to stress the rest of the driveline.
The 1KZ-T fits the criteria and is a sweet engine. It is used in a vast variety of Toyotas with and without ECU. We wanted one without for the simplicity.

Funny by the way that your vehicle is 24V and the engine 12V, in my situation it's exactly the opposite. Landy is 12V but the 3B toyo engine is 24V, bit of a challenge to get it all to work properly. And having dual batteries means having 4(!!) batteries..

If you had chosen for the 13BT engine that would have been a bit easier I reckon, it's 24V for starters, and as it is a Cruiser engine, there's is LOTS of aftermarket gearing options. You would need the 5speed with split transfer case, but if you find a 13BT complete with gearbox and all it already has that.
Then you can get other transfercase gears, overdrives, underdrives, dual transferboxes, the whole lot..
I must admit, there's lots of stuff for the Hilux gear- and transferboxes as well

i know the 13BT! It's a sweet albeit a bit older engine. I have a 2H with the H55 gearbox on it in my HJ60, that's even older! ;-)
Our gear and transfer is Cruiser, not Hilux, we needed the right-side drop in the rear prop-shaft.

Thanks for all the feedback and help so far! It's really helpful to have your ideas and concepts questioned and to get new ideas from others!

 

[Toy-Roverlander]

Well you have to remember this is a truck made to weigh more than 3.5 tonnes. And everything here that weighs more than 3.5 T may not drive above 80 km/h.
The original gearbox behind the Volvo straight-six has a 1.1 ratio in top gear.
The R150F behind the 1KZ-T is 1:0.83 in top gear.
When i drove the donor car home from Oxford in England it rode nice at about 3,200 rpm (Im not going to say what the speed was) but it seemed like the revs the engine liked to operate in.

Oh yes I forgot about that 80k speed limit, whoops. I quick calculation shows that when you're doing 80 (with the 900's ) your engine will do just under 2900 revs. With the 3200 revs you said it liked it would do just under 90kph.
Not too bad then I think? 1100's would be better offcourse, in a gearing point of view....

It's really hard to hit the exact gearing where everything just fits, especially with older diesels, they often have a very narrow rev-band where they work well.

Well actually, I've got the 3B, I don't know if you've ever driven a Cruiser with the 3B in it, but they are so incredibley torquey (like the 2H is as well). The 3B pulls from no revs at all, it's just a tsunami of torque. I was offroading in 1st gear high ratio, even pulling a seriously stuck Def130 out of the clay. Didn't even need low box. And that's with the tall ratio diffs. With the 4.11's it will be even better.
I don't think it has a narrow rev-band, nor does the 2H, I drove an HJ60 (4speed) in Australia and it was awesome. It just needed that 5th gear .

There's actually three!
7.553333:1 7.095555:1 5.992727:1
I have the middle one. You can't put the high one in a 6x6, the prop shaft going from one rear axle to the next won't fit.

Oh ok, learned another thing . too bad that can't be swapped, but if it could have been it was probably expensive.....

It's a standard Toyota Landcruiser transfer. From the top of my head I think it's a RF1A but I'm not sure. What I do know is that Mark's have an 8% overdrive for it!
Which as you say might be a really good option!
Another approach would be to take a Toyota Dyna R452 and snatch the 5th gear. As mentioned above the R150F has a 17% overdrive. From what I've read it is possible to use the 5th gear from the R452 and get a 31% overdrive!

You seem to be more clued up about all that stuff than me.

Of course! The thing is we are planning on using this vehicle for a
"around-the-world-trip".
So using the original 3.0 straight-six with double Stromberg carbs needing 98 octane leaded fuel just wasn't feasable. I have fiddled with Cruisers before and it is the most widely used 4x4 in the world (I did not say best or anything like it). So to be sure of access to parts most places we opted for a cruiser engine.
The original engine and gearbox combo is very short so it had to a 4 cylinder. The original engine has 117hp so a new one should not have less but not too much more as not to stress the rest of the driveline.
The 1KZ-T fits the criteria and is a sweet engine. It is used in a vast variety of Toyotas with and without ECU. We wanted one without for the simplicity.

I see. Yes it's a very good idea to use a Cruiser engine (I did the same for the same reasons). I thought the 1KZ-T was a Hilux engine, but weren't they fitted to the LandCruiser Prado as well?
I think you'll have a pretty sweet setup when you're finished.
We all have different needs and wishes, I'll tell you why I choose the 3B.
I wanted a NA diesel, sure I like a turbo but it's just something else that can go wrong and if it does it will be expensive. And a turbo just adds more clutter under the bonnet. And the engine compartment of a series Landy isn't that big to begin with.
But a NA diesel will have to be of large displacement to get some power. And it had to be a 4cylinder as I wanted to keep the stepped front (lights in grille). So try to find a good, reliable big 4 cylinder NA diesel. Doesn't leave you with many options.
1)Perkins 4.236
2)Isuzu 4bd1 (or something like that, the 3.9)
3)3B

The Perkins needed a LT77 as it will spaghetti the Series gearbox, and the LT77 isn't that great either..Same for the Isuzu. The 3B would probably spaghetti a Series gearbox as well, but you can use the Toy gearbox. Like you said, it has the output shafts offset to the right like a Landy's T-case.
And the 3B is bombproof, just like the tranny is. It's a bit of a tight fit in between the chassisrails though as the 3B is quite wide.
The 3B has 92hp and 216NM, that's a lot more than a standard 2.25, but not so much more that you run the risk to spaghetti halfshafts every time you go offroad.

I reckon you'll love the new diesel setup in your Volvo

i know the 13BT! It's a sweet albeit a bit older engine. I have a 2H with the H55 gearbox on it in my HJ60, that's even older! ;-)
Our gear and transfer is Cruiser, not Hilux, we needed the right-side drop in the rear prop-shaft.

I like old skool engines, nice and simple. Timing gears and pushrods, all mechanical. Can't go wrong

Thanks for all the feedback and help so far! It's really helpful to have your ideas and concepts questioned and to get new ideas from others!

No worries, I'd like to see the outcome. Keep us posted ok?

 

[Christian]

Well actually, I've got the 3B, I don't know if you've ever driven a Cruiser with the 3B in it, but they are so incredibley torquey (like the 2H is as well). The 3B pulls from no revs at all, it's just a tsunami of torque. I was offroading in 1st gear high ratio, even pulling a seriously stuck Def130 out of the clay. Didn't even need low box. And that's with the tall ratio diffs. With the 4.11's it will be even better.
I don't think it has a narrow rev-band, nor does the 2H, I drove an HJ60 (4speed) in Australia and it was awesome. It just needed that 5th gear .

I haven't. I think they where in some BJ42's or 45's...

You seem to be more clued up about all that stuff than me.

Just what I read on the interweb...

I see. Yes it's a very good idea to use a Cruiser engine (I did the same for the same reasons). I thought the 1KZ-T was a Hilux engine, but weren't they fitted to the LandCruiser Prado as well?

Yep, we got them in the 90 series but they where fitted in Hiluxes, Surfs, Hiaces, Dynas and 70 series as well.

I think you'll have a pretty sweet setup when you're finished.
We all have different needs and wishes, I'll tell you why I choose the 3B.
I wanted a NA diesel, sure I like a turbo but it's just something else that can go wrong and if it does it will be expensive. And a turbo just adds more clutter under the bonnet. And the engine compartment of a series Landy isn't that big to begin with.
But a NA diesel will have to be of large displacement to get some power. And it had to be a 4cylinder as I wanted to keep the stepped front (lights in grille). So try to find a good, reliable big 4 cylinder NA diesel. Doesn't leave you with many options.
1)Perkins 4.236
2)Isuzu 4bd1 (or something like that, the 3.9)
3)3B

The Perkins needed a LT77 as it will spaghetti the Series gearbox, and the LT77 isn't that great either..Same for the Isuzu. The 3B would probably spaghetti a Series gearbox as well, but you can use the Toy gearbox. Like you said, it has the output shafts offset to the right like a Landy's T-case.
And the 3B is bombproof, just like the tranny is. It's a bit of a tight fit in between the chassisrails though as the 3B is quite wide.
The 3B has 92hp and 216NM, that's a lot more than a standard 2.25, but not so much more that you run the risk to spaghetti halfshafts every time you go offroad.

Well you have been through the same process a I have. And its great that it has worked out so well for you!
I hope ours will be a succes too!

How old is your series?

No worries, I'd like to see the outcome. Keep us posted ok?

Thanks! And will do but probably not in this thread. The title is a bit misleading... But we plan on making a homepage where we will put up all the mods and stuff we do so others may benefit from our mistakes!:sombrero:

 

[Toy-Roverlander]

Well you have been through the same process a I have. And its great that it has worked out so well for you!
I hope ours will be a succes too!

How old is your series?

Thanks! And will do but probably not in this thread. The title is a bit misleading... But we plan on making a homepage where we will put up all the mods and stuff we do so others may benefit from our mistakes!:sombrero:

I'm very happy with the result. The 3B is what a Series Landy always needed, a big torquey 4cylinder. Too bad Land Rover never made them like this.

My 109" is from 1965, it's the proper one , with the lights in the grille, metal dash and wire spoke steering wheel not the plastic one..

I'm looking forward to follow your built, it's good to see something different. I wish you luck, and with your tyres as well. Have you made a decision yet?

:sombrero:

Koos

 

[M.Bas]

Got mail from Vrakking/Aircrafttyres.

9.00x16 costs new 275 euro and retread 205 euro excl taxes and stuff.

So approximately 325 and 250 euro incl.

11.00 they didn't give a price but my guess would be that a retread 11.00 is at least as expensive as a 9.00 new.

That is a lot of money for a new set of tires :Wow1:

 

[Christian]

Hi Koos

That is a classic!
No, I haven't... well it's ok actually, we haven't fitted the engine yet so there's plenty of time...

Hi Bas

Wauw yeah! That is expensive. Especially when we need 7 or 8 of them!