Robert Bills
Explorer
Another low buck option is to use a "clamp on" air chuck (without air line). Just clamp it on, wait until the tire looks about right, then remove and fine tune with your air pressure gauge.
best way to air down?
- Thread starter adventurebuddies
- Start date
tdesanto
Expedition Leader
I have been very happy with the Stauns. I like being able to get them started and then work on other stuff while they're doing their job.
I have two set for the front pressure and two set for the rear pressure. When the front are done, I can quickly move them to the trailer to finish off the air-down process.
Come to think of it, it would be nice to get another set of 2 just for the trailer.
Anyone want to sell me 2?
I have two set for the front pressure and two set for the rear pressure. When the front are done, I can quickly move them to the trailer to finish off the air-down process.
Come to think of it, it would be nice to get another set of 2 just for the trailer.
Anyone want to sell me 2?
Overland Hadley
on a journey
I really like using my ARB deflator.
slosurfer
Adventurer
Pull the core and have a little box of extra cores in the glove box just in case. I've never dropped/lost mine yet. With time I've come to learn what the air coming out sounds like at about 12psi and know it's about time to put the core back in.
As for the ********/chat, I still get to do it. I just get to stand up and talk to the guys who are still kneeling/bent over using their fancy deflators.
Oh and I usually help others finish airing down.:sombrero:
As for the ********/chat, I still get to do it. I just get to stand up and talk to the guys who are still kneeling/bent over using their fancy deflators.
Oh and I usually help others finish airing down.:sombrero:
slomatt
Adventurer
A few years ago I built a setup to air up two tires at once, it's basically a 4-way tee with the air input on one side, gauge on top, and hoses on each side with clamp on schrader connectors. It also works great for airing down, I just open the valve and check the gauge sporadically. I also have a set of Staun's but never use them.
I loose the valve caps every once and a while, so there's no way I want to risk loosing the cores.
- Matt
I loose the valve caps every once and a while, so there's no way I want to risk loosing the cores.
- Matt
If time is important, pulling the core is just about without equal. I can deflate all 4 tires, take a whiz, clean the mirrors, strap on a pistol, pop in a CD, tune the trail radio to the frequency of the day, and be waiting to depart while others are still working on tire number 3.
Spikepretorius
Explorer
I pull the valves right out. Get's the job done quickly.
Mc Taco
American Adventurist
slomatt said:A few years ago I built a setup to air up two tires at once, it's basically a 4-way tee with the air input on one side, gauge on top, and hoses on each side with clamp on schrader connectors. It also works great for airing down, I just open the valve and check the gauge sporadically. I also have a set of Staun's but never use them.
I loose the valve caps every once and a while, so there's no way I want to risk loosing the cores.
- Matt
Your two tire set up sounds cool. Look into getting a set of the No Loss Valve Caps. Made by Extreme Outback Products. Sierra Expeditions sells them in a four pack. $10ish. Buy two packs so you have an extra one for your spare or for your trailer tires.
I use a set of Stauns. I use an old spare to check that they are set where I want them prior to every trip.
On the dragsters at my old job we had removable valve body assemblies. The whole thing would unscrew. Finger tight. Never lost any. We'd check pressure a couple times each day. 150+ mph runs.
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Spikepretorius
Explorer
I've got a buddy who drilled his wheels and fitted a second valve.
He puts the guage on one valve and inflates/deflates with the other valve.
He puts the guage on one valve and inflates/deflates with the other valve.
silverscout
Adventurer
If I'm in a rush I'll pull the stem. Otherwise I use the Staunt system. Like Billy Mays says "SET IT AND FORGET IT!"
rusty_tlc
Explorer
The problem I see with pulling the core is cross threading it when you put it back in, that could ruin your day. I carry the four way tool and a stem with the wrench style cap, plus a few cores and stems.
The Stuans are nice, if you run the same pressure all the time. I re-set mine to the highest pressure I'm likely to run on the UZJ100. After the tires are done I can always bleed a little more pressure off. Take care with the Stuans, they are affected by temperature. One of the big pluses of the Stuans is you can install them then spend your time checking out your rig without worrying about under inflating. I built a set-up tool out of 1 1/2" PVC, a cheap HF pressure gage, and a steel schrader valve that simplifies setting the Stuans.
On my FJ40 I just use the cheap unregulated type that sell for $10 a set. All in all they work about as well with a lot less fussing.
The Stuans are nice, if you run the same pressure all the time. I re-set mine to the highest pressure I'm likely to run on the UZJ100. After the tires are done I can always bleed a little more pressure off. Take care with the Stuans, they are affected by temperature. One of the big pluses of the Stuans is you can install them then spend your time checking out your rig without worrying about under inflating. I built a set-up tool out of 1 1/2" PVC, a cheap HF pressure gage, and a steel schrader valve that simplifies setting the Stuans.
On my FJ40 I just use the cheap unregulated type that sell for $10 a set. All in all they work about as well with a lot less fussing.
ntsqd
Heretic Car Camper
I thought that I had posted in a previous thread what I use, but I didn't find it.
From McMaster.com you can buy a over pressure pop-off valve. I have one with a 20 psi limit, but they come in a wide range of pressures. No setting these things, they come ready to go at the specified pressure. Downside is that you need another one if you want to change pressures. I've not ever needed to, 20 has worked for everything I've ever wanted to tackle (like Defense Mine/Stone Cyn, Swamp Lakes, Upper Doran, etc.).
I have this screwed to a clip-on tire chuck. Clip it on and forget it until the noise starts to sound like "raspberries." While that is working on one tire I use my trigger type inflater, unconnected, to lower another tire's pressure. I usually use the clip-on to get me close and then fine tune all tires with the de/inflater.
I made a tire pressure equalizer from a self-coiling hose and two more clip-on tire chucks. At one time I had it set up with a 'T' in the line so that I could inflate two tires at once. That proved to take more time than doing one at a time, or it sure felt like it did.
The main reason for the device is to equalize the pressures at the Detroited rear axle prior to getting on pavement. In a 33" tire a couple psi difference is enough to make a 112" wheelbase truck drive poorly.
From McMaster.com you can buy a over pressure pop-off valve. I have one with a 20 psi limit, but they come in a wide range of pressures. No setting these things, they come ready to go at the specified pressure. Downside is that you need another one if you want to change pressures. I've not ever needed to, 20 has worked for everything I've ever wanted to tackle (like Defense Mine/Stone Cyn, Swamp Lakes, Upper Doran, etc.).
I have this screwed to a clip-on tire chuck. Clip it on and forget it until the noise starts to sound like "raspberries." While that is working on one tire I use my trigger type inflater, unconnected, to lower another tire's pressure. I usually use the clip-on to get me close and then fine tune all tires with the de/inflater.
I made a tire pressure equalizer from a self-coiling hose and two more clip-on tire chucks. At one time I had it set up with a 'T' in the line so that I could inflate two tires at once. That proved to take more time than doing one at a time, or it sure felt like it did.
The main reason for the device is to equalize the pressures at the Detroited rear axle prior to getting on pavement. In a 33" tire a couple psi difference is enough to make a 112" wheelbase truck drive poorly.
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