Best way to diagnose LR3 airleak

[medicfernando]

Hello all. I have an exceptionally clean, well maintained 06 LR3 SE/HD. Great rig. Runs amazing, everything works. Recently it has been settling down more than it should at night. Looks like I have a leak somewhere. The car only has 72,000 miles so I doubt the airbags are bad. What suggestions can you give me for diagnosing where the leak may be coming from. I am a capable do-it yourselfer and not afraid to bust a knuckle. I suspect maybe a valve block from what I have read. Any suggestions are appreciated as I like my rigs in good working order. Thanks all! Cheers! Fernando

 

[GREENI]

The best bet is to fill a squirty type (trigger spray) bottle full of water and something like fairy liquid (not sure if you have that in the US, it's for washing pots n pans n dishes), run the engine so the suspension is pumped up and the go around each bag, joint, pipe, the air block etc and spray it liberally. Any escaping air will give you bubbles. Pay attention where air pipes may rub on suspension parts or body.

 

[A.J.M]

Best thing is to pull the battery at night.

The car will try and self level to keep the alarm happy, so when one corner starts to drop it corrects itself.

Disconnecting the battery stops it doing that, so you will find one corner has sunk, 3 are still up.

If it sinks at the front only, it's the front valve block. Mine did that for a while before I changed the block and it's sat level ever since.
I fitted mine on my driveway and it's basic tools needed.

Just make sure when you go to fix whatever is wrong, the car is well supported on level ground as once you crack open an air line the car will sink to the bump stops.
The compressor will get a good workout bringing the system back up to operating pressure and may throw up overheating errors on the dash, that's normal for it.
Just let it idle and build the pressure in its own time and don't disturb it.

 

[proper4wd]

Most likely a front or rear valve block/cross link valve. The above diag procedure is correct (disconnect battery and let sit overnight). Should not be too hard to figure out.

 

[medicfernando]

Thanks everyone for your input. I read that instead of disconnecting the battery you can pull a suspension fuse and it wont self level. I will do that tonight and do some exploring tomorrow and will update. Thanks again, Fernando

 

[GORM]

You can also leave the door open, that will disable the auto-leveling action. I diagnosed a bad front valve block. I removed it, took apart and put it back together without having to change anything. The possible cause could be decaying air dryer desiccant. That stuff breaks down and fouls up the valves. Mine is a 2008 LR3.

Hopefully it is not the rear one because that one is a lot,harder to get out than the front. The front one you can remove by turning the wheel and peeling back the front wheel well.

After fixing the front one and having the problem go away, I now have on the rear. I have the same problem and cannot seem to get at the rear one even though I've removed the wheel. I just bought some crowfoot wrenches and I am hoping that will help but this may be one I bring to my mechanic to replace.

There are air dryer kits on eBay (and elsewhere) that you can use to source the parts for an air compressor rebuild, one I so rings and and the other includes desiccant. Combined these are like $100. The valve blocks are like $150.

Look up:
Land Range Rover Sport LR3 LR4 Air Suspension EAS Pump Compressor Repair O Ring
LAND ROVER LR3 / DISCOVERY 3 AIR SUSPENSION COMPRESSOR REPAIR KIT

Happy hunting ...

 

[medicfernando]

OK, here are the results. Front and rear settled down after sitting all night. The rear settled considerably more than the front, but equally side to side. The front also settled equally side to side. Not sure what to think. Makes me think that the front and rear valve blocks are leaking. I am going to try to spray them with soapy water and look for leaks. A lillte more info: when I start it in the morning, it rises up immediately, the compressor does not run constantly and it seems to hold air throughout the day. The compressor seems to be fine. Any thoughts and ideas are appreciated. Thanks!

 

[morrisdl]

I have the similar issue with my 06, but I was sinking on the driver/front most. I think any leak will drag the other corners down a little as the weight shifts. So in your case, MAYBE its rear only.

I could not find a leak with soapy water. I have heard the bags and the valve blocks can leak back into the system (so no bubbles). Im replacing the front block this weekend...good luck with yours!

 

[GREENI]

The car will always want to level itself, so as one bag drops, the others follow suit. I've diagnosed two D3's with the soapy water test.

The best forum for info/cheats is www.disco3.co.uk

 

[medicfernando]

Update. After doing the self-leveling test and coming to no conclusions, I decide to check things out with some soapy water. Results, I found no leaks anywher that I could access. I was having my lower control arms replaced today so I had my LR mechanic check for leaks as well. He found none but found several codes in the computer which led him to believe that a software update is necessary. He is 95% sure that will take care of my suspension issues. I will report back in the morning after she sites in the garage all night again. Fernando

 

[morrisdl]

YEAH! Replacing my front valve block fixed my overnight sinking problem! Worse when its cold. Two different LR dealerships could not find the leak and wanted to just replace the $400 air strut (or $800 for the pair). Thank you forum - I owe a bunch of you all a beer. Cheers!

 

[GREENI]

Glad it got fixed.

 

[SDLR3]

Where did you source your valve block? Mine has been doing the same thing when I tested overnight the front sank evenly so valve block sounds like the culprit. TIA

 

[GORM]

Auto-level questi

So how far will the LR3 auto-leveling system drop the truck?

I'm fairly certain my rear valve block is bad so the truck sags overnight. But without pulling the fuse, battery or leaving the door open, the rear is still much lower (I think on bump stops) but the front is a little higher. This just leads me to believe the auto-level function will go only so far to level the rover. Maybe access height?

Thanks
Kent

 

[morrisdl]

Lucky8 was cheapest I found for the front valve block. It wasn't on the site, but email them. sales@lucky8llc.com. you need to pulled the eas fuse or it will wake up every couple hours and drop eventually all the way to the bump stops. When I pulled the fuse it sank most in one corner, but it's still a safer cheaper bet than replacing air bags. The front is easy to replace too.