Bigreen505's Trooper Mod tread

ZooJunkie

Explorer
:beer:

After I move into to our new home, I'll will start on my drawer. My current platform is removable. The top floor is not bolted/nailed to the subframe and this whole system can be removed from the back of the truck.

Why?
1. Wife doesn't think it'll be useful.
2. Getting a 3rd row seating option.


-Matt
 

bootzilla

Adventurer
If you can find some "PB Blaster" - spray it with that and let it soak for awhile - that stuff does wonders!

I sprayed my shock bolts the other day, hoping that but the time my new shocks get here (they better be here tomorrow, I've been waiting all week) the bolts would come out without much hassle...
 

bigreen505

Expedition Leader
I guess I'm about due for an update. Not too much to report though on the mod front. I ran out of time on the ball joint flip so they are likely to stay where they are through the winter as I can't see a free day until mid-November.

My mechanic traced many of my noises and handling issues to a blown right front shock. Once replaced it is a whole new Trooper and I really like the Rancho shocks.

I removed the sway bar as a temporary fix for more articulation and I'm not sure if I'm going to bother to put it back on. The cons are more body roll, somewhat sketchy transitional handling and significant decrease in straight line stability at highway speeds. The pros are much more neutral handling and somewhat improved steering response. In plain English, the vehicle is tippier, but feels more nimble.
 

ZooJunkie

Explorer
Because you removed your sway bar, you should look into adding more toe-in to help w/ the high speed stability. Also, you might want to add a bit of toe-out in the rear to also assist in the high speed straight line stability. A bit more negative camber will help as well, but not as much as adding more toe in the front and rear.
 

bigreen505

Expedition Leader
I flipped the ball joints last night. Not too big a job for one person with the right tools. I used a 3lb. sledge and one side took quite a while of beating on it, the other popped off in a few hits. I followed Scott's directions without a problem. If you are using a box end wrench on the castle nut, do not remove the wrench until the castle nut is off. There is room either above or below the nut, depending on how far removed it is, to reposition the wrench. I used about an 30" cheater pipe over the wrench.

I have some very worn pieces in the front end or wheel bearings need to be tightened. There is play, but I can't tell where it is. I'm going to be replacing parts slowly starting with Independent 4x tie rods and we'll see what happens.

It appears that I have one more worn out Rancho to replace as well.

Tires are next on my todo list, but I want to get the all the worn suspension components replaced first. If I can find a way financially to run two sets of tires, I will get a 235/85 Nokian for winter and probably a 255/85 MT for summer. If I'm pretty sure I won't be able to come up with the money for that I will just go with a 265/75 BFG AT/KO as a compromise.

My current 285/75 tires have about 8/32" remaining and float far too much on the snow.
 

bigreen505

Expedition Leader
Product review: Bosch Icon Wiper Blades

I purchased a set of Bosch Icon wiper blades early this spring to replace my worn out wipers. My general MO for wipers is to buy winter blades in September or October annually. However, they needed to be replaced, I couldn't find winter blades in my size and didn't really want to buy summer blades now and winter blades again in a couple months.

What makes them different:

The Bosch Icon blades looked interesting and because of the design should work equally well summer or winter. The final deciding factor was the aerodynamic shape to add down force to the blade at speed, similar to having a wing on the wiper arm. This was an important consideration as the Pathfinder developed severe wiper lift in cross winds at highway speeds.

Instead of many little "arms" to keep the blade on the glass, the Icon is on giant piece of spring steel with wiper attached to it, theoretically producing more even pressure across the blade and can handle a curved windshield without problem.

I used the blades all spring and summer and found them to be generally satisfactory, but nothing really special.

Today it snowed and gave me the first opportunity to test the Bosch Icon blades in winter driving conditions. I won't say they failed miserably because the did not ice up, but I would grade their performance a solid D-. The spring steel core of the blade does not generate enough force, or is not torsionally stiff enough, to move snow piled up on the bottom and sides of the windshield, and instead rides up over them.

Summary:
The Bosch Icon is a clever design, but not a totally functional one. At $45 a set ($22 each) they are too expensive for a summer blade and not good enough in snow to qualify as a winter or all season blade. If you feel compelled to spend that much money on wipers try the Silblade, Pangaea carries them.

Overall I am not impressed and want my money back.
 

bigreen505

Expedition Leader
One more observation from today is the TOD power mod has moved from something I want to do to my #1 critical priority. TOD is a reactive system and changing lanes on a snowy or slushy road requires proactive traction, otherwise you are at risk of a spin. The when the TOD engages the front wheels it is just too little too late.
 

AZTrooper

Adventurer
I've seen that TOD mod before, but I can't remember where I saw it. I think I'm going to do that too. It was wierd when I first used the TOD. Iwasn't to sure of what to think when the TOD kicked in and the sound it makes when it does.
 

datrupr

Expedition Leader
Thanks for posting up that link Bill. I am little slow these days in getting to the boards. This is the first of the bad stuff I have actually heard about TOD. Since mine is a 98 and TOD was an option that year mine was not so equipped, and I have to say I have always been glad it it has never been so.
 

bootzilla

Adventurer
bigreen505 said:
One more observation from today is the TOD power mod has moved from something I want to do to my #1 critical priority. TOD is a reactive system and changing lanes on a snowy or slushy road requires proactive traction, otherwise you are at risk of a spin. The when the TOD engages the front wheels it is just too little too late.

Definitely. I found this out driving on the beach - if the sand got too soft, the TOD would start to react too slowly, and I would have no choice but to shift to low to lock the center up.

I have all the parts for the power mod - just need a free saturday to get it in...
 

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