Bilstein 5100 rear shock problem...

[Terracoma]

About a week ago I noticed a clunking noise coming from the rear axle. Walking out of the hardware store I spotted a problem with the driver-side shock, but I hadn't the time to fool with it, so I removed the shock to get the truck streetable again. It's my daily driver right now and it gets me where I go.

Well, went on a little jaunt last night down some washboard dirt roads and noticed on way out that my truck was riding like a boat... I figured I'd blown the passenger-side shock, as it was doing all the work by itself. Chalked it up to foolishness and a lesson learned, time to order new shocks... Well, I went out this morning to see what was going on underneath the truck and see the below, which is EXACTLY what had happened to the driver-side shock just a week before. I don't know exactly when the shocks were installed (sometime before 5/23/2006), but they have at least 45,000 miles on them, mostly highway travel but some decent off-pavement abuse.

The shocks both appear to have life remaining in them, but I'm completely unsure of how to get the lower eyelet tight on the threads of the shock shaft as I can't think of a way to secure the shaft (and keep it from rotating) without damaging the shaft... Moreover, how does something like this happen, with the shaft unthreading itself from the lower eyelet? I'd imagine my off-pavement travels have acted like an impact wrench and loosened it over time, but why? I've not seen any threads about similar problems with these shocks.

I've always tightened the mounting bolts to the proper torque per Toyota, so I can't imagine the shock bushing are bound too tightly, but aside from "beyond service life" that's the only thing I can think of being the culprit... Thoughts?

Money is tight, but I'm currently of the mind to order a set of OME 60062s and eat Top Ramen for a week or two... :chef:

 

[Wes Craiglow]

Oh, $hiz... Sorry for ya, bro. I'd call Bilstein first thing in the a.m. and ask their input.

For future reference: I don't know if I'd roll around on one shock ever.

Very strange that both had this prob. Coincidence? Hmmm....

 

[alan]

Are they standard length shocks? or long travel? I can see you have std leaf springs, this happens when the shock bottoms out before the bump stop comes into play.

 

[bat]

Is it just the picture or is the leaf spring having a little bit of a problem

 

[7wt]

Is it just the picture or is the leaf spring having a little bit of a problem

X2. It looks like you are riding on your overload leafs.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Ouch, I would get ahold of Bilstein and see what they recommend. That said I can promise that you won't be dissapointed with the OME 60062's but I would be worried about them being slighly too long with some heavily worn stock springs?

 

[Terracoma]

For future reference: I don't know if I'd roll around on one shock ever.

Not my best idea ever, and it was a short, slow, awkwardly loose ride to be the last of its kind.

Very strange that both had this prob. Coincidence? Hmmm....

I agree, suspicious, so I'm thinking that something I've done has caused it...

However, the only changes I've made in the last 45,000 miles were the longer shock bolts, and thicker lock washers.

I'd call Bilstein first thing in the a.m. and ask their input.

Ouch, I would get ahold of Bilstein and see what they recommend.

I'll track down a phone number for them and give them a ring in the morning, but probably just to see if they'd like to receive the shocks for inspection.

Are they standard length shocks? or long travel? I can see you have std leaf springs, this happens when the shock bottoms out before the bump stop comes into play.

Is it just the picture or is the leaf spring having a little bit of a problem

X2. It looks like you are riding on your overload leafs.

I believe they are extended length 5125-series shocks to complement the Downey HD lift shackles as installed by the previous owner. Should be 22-1/2" extended, 14-1/16" compressed according to Summit Racing's website, same rough dimensions as the Old Man Emu N85 springs which are advertised as extended length... No camera trickery, either, the truck is still wearing the original Toyota leaf springs that are now a bit negatively arched. Current lift is ~1-1/2" to 2" higher in the rear than in the front, which is stock Bilsteins on stock coils.

That said I can promise that you won't be dissapointed with the OME 60062's but I would be worried about them being slighly too long with some heavily worn stock springs?

I had intended on ordering a set of OME rear springs (and other lift components) in early May, but the money situation dictates that the stock equipment remain until I can afford to upgrade... Do you think the 60062s are going to be a problem with the Downey shackles and worn springs for mostly pavement driving? I've got a pretty intense course load this semester and won't be taking any extended off-pavement trips until after finals, just impromptu dirt roads here and there.



Thanks for the quick replies, everyone!

 

[cruiseroutfit]

...I had intended on ordering a set of OME rear springs (and other lift components) in early May, but the money situation dictates that the stock equipment remain until I can afford to upgrade... Do you think the 60062s are going to be a problem with the Downey shackles and worn springs for mostly pavement driving? I've got a pretty intense course load this semester and won't be taking any extended off-pavement trips until after finals, just impromptu dirt roads here and there...

Do you have somewhere close to home you can do a 'flex test', a loading ramp, a forklift and nearby off-road spot? If you could flex it up both in a full stuffed and fully drooped position we could match your numbers with the OME shock to insure no damage will occur.

The reality is for mostly pavement driving it wouldn't be an issue, but if you do get off road and start flexing it up you could damage the loner shock by bottoming it out. Shouldn't be an issue with the factory bump stops in place but worth measuring regardless.

 

[Wes Craiglow]

What did Bilstein tell you? Outcome?

 

[nater]

When you replaced the shock bolts and lock washers, what did you torque them to? If too tight, it may have prevented the shock from moving on the bushing, causing some odd side loads on the shock end... I have seen it in factory five cobras...

 

[Wes Craiglow]

When you replaced the shock bolts and lock washers, what did you torque them to? If too tight, it may have prevented the shock from moving on the bushing, causing some odd side loads on the shock end... I have seen it in factory five cobras...

Excellent point.

Now if you'll excuse me...

**rummaging and banging sounds from the toolbox** (Where did I put that doggoned torque wrench?!?)

 

[EXP-T100]

I have 6 5150's on my truck and one on the front and one on the back has done this. The thing that suck is if it happens once i will happen again even with red locktite and the threads start to get striped the first time it happens. So i grabbed the old welder and fixed it for good and put a tack on the other for.:costumed-smiley-007

 

[Terracoma]

What did Bilstein tell you? Outcome?

I have 6 5150's on my truck and one on the front and one on the back has done this. The thing that suck is if it happens once i will happen again even with red locktite and the threads start to get striped the first time it happens. So i grabbed the old welder and fixed it for good and put a tack on the other four.

The short version is that I had to order new shocks...

I solicited advice on a few other forums and it was suggested that I try cleaning the threads on the end of the stud, spray with brake cleaner and let dry, apply red loctite to the threads, clamp a pair of vice grips to the very end of the shock shaft, thread the eyelet onto the shock shaft, and let the loctite cure.... Seemed like a decent plan, but after reinstalling the shocks the next afternoon (~12 hours of cure time), the passenger side shock let loose again. The driver side shock seems to be 100% after applying the loctite. I'll let the photos do the talking, but the passenger side shock seems to have been loose for quite some time prior to my discovery. Looking the passenger side shock over, it may only be reusable by welding the eyelet to the shock shaft as the threads on both the shaft and the eyelet are extremely buggered and only engage the last thread-and-a-half before bottoming out.

When you replaced the shock bolts and lock washers, what did you torque them to? If too tight, it may have prevented the shock from moving on the bushing, causing some odd side loads on the shock end... I have seen it in factory five cobras...

53-ft/lbs, as specified by the FSM... I'm beginning to think that the thicker lock washers combined with the dry, worn bushings on the Bilsteins are the culprit. The threads are all hammered pretty good, which would indicate that perhaps the bushings were binding up and preventing the shocks from moving on their bushings.

Anyway, I've removed the lock washers before installing the new shocks, tightened up the bolts to approximately 30-ft/lbs, and will keep an eye out for anything suspicious.



Thanks again, everyone!

 

[EXP-T100]

So are you going to do any thing to the new ones to help prevent it from happening again? I think i would just put a tack on the new one when ever i replace mine. Weld up the old ones and keep them as spares

 

[Terracoma]

Greased the studs on the frame and the lower spring seats, removed the lock washers, and only tightened the mounting bolts to ~30-ft/lbs.

Current plan is to run the OME shocks, keep an eye on them, and have a friend back home weld up the old Bilsteins to keep as spares.