I doubt it. The "ram air" scoop on my 7.3 is a fairly sad little thing. The intake opening on my 6.4 isnt a whole lot better and judging by the amount of boost it uses just backing out of the driveway, that thing loves it some air. Just as much comes out as goes in and most folks get by with 3-4" exhaust, so I'd wager that would do just fine as an intake opening.
Black & Blue Project
- Thread starter Tyrant 66
- Start date
Tyrant 66
Adventurer
Be watching the Boomer build thread in the coming months....granted, my body style is a couple generations back, but there is an external intake system in the works.
SG
Bikersmurf
Expedition Leader
Vacuum needs a much larger pipe to flow the same volume as air under pressure. That said, unless your drag racing through a deep river, it's likely not a concern.
Mwilliamshs
Explorer
A stock 7.3L turbo diesel needs ~1300 CFM (1275 I think) @ 3300 rpm and that's about 3.5" diameter at 1atm. This is of course restricted by filter, acoustic tuning, intercooler, bends, etc. Thinking intake and exhaust should be the same size is folly. Intake flows ambient or cooler air that's warming as it nears the intake under a slight vacuum for less than 5' with an intercooler, even less distance without one. Exhaust flows hot air and fuel that's cooling under pressure for at least 10', more like 15' with a turbo on an RB, and closer to 17' on an EB.
Tyrant 66
Adventurer
I'm finally getting serious about getting the interior done and have it pretty much narrowed down to what I want. It's been a long saga for the last year and a half trying to put it together with people Who can't seem to stay out of jail or find time to do anything properly! I've decided to put on my little red hen costume and you know the rest of the story............
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mk216v
Der Chef der Fahrzeuge
Doesn't sound like you're talking about anyone any of us know...
Care to share interior detail plans? I'm curious what you have cooked up.
thethePete
Explorer
Just wondering if you've done any of the "6.0L mods"? These motors can make a ton of power but they have a few very notorious flaws which require some serious engine work and can really leave you stranded.
Commonly, both the EGR and engine oil coolers are deleted, as well as replacing the injectors with an updated design and replacing the head bolts with ARP headstuds. These are the major known issues with the engine and once fixed this motor goes from being "fatally flawed" to rock solid. Also, I'd look at getting a Scangauge so you can monitor your FICM voltage. That's about the only other thing I can think of off hand that would leave you in a bad spot.
Killer rig. The more I see these 4x4 vans the more I want one. Impressive fab/design skills.
Commonly, both the EGR and engine oil coolers are deleted, as well as replacing the injectors with an updated design and replacing the head bolts with ARP headstuds. These are the major known issues with the engine and once fixed this motor goes from being "fatally flawed" to rock solid. Also, I'd look at getting a Scangauge so you can monitor your FICM voltage. That's about the only other thing I can think of off hand that would leave you in a bad spot.
Killer rig. The more I see these 4x4 vans the more I want one. Impressive fab/design skills.
thethePete
Explorer
If you're not familiar with the Powerstroke 6.0L, I suggest you do some research. They are capable of making a lot of power, but they're regarded very poorly because of the flaws I mentioned above. A lot of guys here run them successfully, but most have done the things I mentioned.
Tyrant 66
Adventurer
I had my truck squared away by the wonderful folks over in Ashville NC at U-Joint Offroad. Top-notch to say the least. Good looking out, thank you and keep an eye out for the new developments coming soon!
HAPPY Easter All!!
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stormlover
Adventurer
The stock oil cooler is actually quite functional if the Ford Gold coolant has been properly maintained. Monitor the temp spread between EOT and ECT and if the spread get's bigger than 14 or 15 F then you have a problem. An external oil cooler like the Bulletproof version is quite expensive and if you live in a cold climate you can barely get the oil hot enough for efficient cylinder combustion.
Either way, unless you have a 2003 (round not square tubes) and you want to stay smog compliant simply replace the EGR cooler with an improved version. It's not necessary to delete the EGR to have a bomber and dependable engine. You don't need to do head studs either. The vans are detuned for ~100 less HP and rarely blow head gaskets. And if they do, it's because the oil cooler was plugged and that restricted coolant flow to the EGR cooler. If the cooler ruptures coolant leaks into the cylinder heads and that is what blows the HG. So, monitor those temps and when the time comes simply put in a new OEM oil cooler (it's actually been improved with an extra row of cooling fins) and replace the EGR cooler with an aftermarket version. Or, delete it but think hard about the need for a $2000+ external oil cooler on a van with aftermarket bumpers. Mods are needed. My two cents.