Black Friday Ambo
- Thread starter flightcancled
- Start date
flightcancled
Explorer
The volt gauge I have sorta does that on its own.
If I am remembering this right:
Batteries are both at 12.6 sitting idle if they have been allowed to charge and disconnected. Maybe as low as 12.2 if it had been a while since I last ram the engine or drew them down.
Engine running in "both" all circuits are at 13.6
When I kill the engine in "both" the voltage drops slowly from 13.6-8 to 12.6
Now if I switch to one battery then the other I can charge them to 13v+ and keep them there without issue. But only if I charge them separately.
Adding loads or changing the engine speed doesn't make anything more than a momentary change before the alternators correct for it.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
If I am remembering this right:
Batteries are both at 12.6 sitting idle if they have been allowed to charge and disconnected. Maybe as low as 12.2 if it had been a while since I last ram the engine or drew them down.
Engine running in "both" all circuits are at 13.6
When I kill the engine in "both" the voltage drops slowly from 13.6-8 to 12.6
Now if I switch to one battery then the other I can charge them to 13v+ and keep them there without issue. But only if I charge them separately.
Adding loads or changing the engine speed doesn't make anything more than a momentary change before the alternators correct for it.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
flightcancled
Explorer
Oh I'm totally convinced. Double checked. Even separately I can't get my batteries above 12.4 volts despite the 50 amps my alternator is putting out. So on top of everything else it is slowly giving me less and less voltage. Now I know where I can get he same part and swap it in for $30, but can someone actually show me (and I'm sure everyone else) a diagram or something of how to properly switch to solenoids and how that relates to the house batteries?
Thanks!!!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks!!!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last edited:
flightcancled
Explorer
So last night I chose progress over sleep.
I got my D-rings (more or less) in for the roof. These were drilled into the curved metal pieces that make up the top of the box frame.
The center mounting point required making a support bracket. The sheet metal is just not enough. Here's what I came up with from what I had lying around after making the walk-through.
I put the mounting box for the board in front of the door. Every time I come home I glue down the next section of the utility carpet and clamp it in place with vice grips and plywood. Here's it basically back together. Once I mount the idle controller that's hanging down I'll give it a little more sound proofing and then put the insulation back behind it and reinstall.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I got my D-rings (more or less) in for the roof. These were drilled into the curved metal pieces that make up the top of the box frame.
The center mounting point required making a support bracket. The sheet metal is just not enough. Here's what I came up with from what I had lying around after making the walk-through.
I put the mounting box for the board in front of the door. Every time I come home I glue down the next section of the utility carpet and clamp it in place with vice grips and plywood. Here's it basically back together. Once I mount the idle controller that's hanging down I'll give it a little more sound proofing and then put the insulation back behind it and reinstall.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last edited:
flightcancled
Explorer
Finally have a semblance of freedom and a similar amount of progress to report.
If you're sharp you'll notice there's something on my little reading light. Initially I was only planning on having the console out for a max of 10 days. Work turned that into 4-5 weeks. Somewhere in there a bird crawled up the engine and into the ambo. After leaving droppings at every window and the dash it apparently figured out how to leave again...
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
If you're sharp you'll notice there's something on my little reading light. Initially I was only planning on having the console out for a max of 10 days. Work turned that into 4-5 weeks. Somewhere in there a bird crawled up the engine and into the ambo. After leaving droppings at every window and the dash it apparently figured out how to leave again...
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
polksfinest
Observer
Me too with the wasps my wife has to spray once a week
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
flightcancled
Explorer
This is the week of dumb luck:
The Rear ABS and Brake lights were both on because the brake fluid was low. I was convinced this was going to be really pricy.
The missing link to get the AC working in the box was the thermostat. I thought I had tried that before, but setting everything up and then adjusting the dial got everything working. Seems really dumb- if I want heat/AC I want heat/AC. I might see about making this a simple switch system.
While waiting for Ken to swing by and show off his awesome progress (again so jealous man!) I tried to return power to my power locks. That was a dead end -anyone have a 92 owners manual that can tell me the right fuse to check?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The Rear ABS and Brake lights were both on because the brake fluid was low. I was convinced this was going to be really pricy.
The missing link to get the AC working in the box was the thermostat. I thought I had tried that before, but setting everything up and then adjusting the dial got everything working. Seems really dumb- if I want heat/AC I want heat/AC. I might see about making this a simple switch system.
While waiting for Ken to swing by and show off his awesome progress (again so jealous man!) I tried to return power to my power locks. That was a dead end -anyone have a 92 owners manual that can tell me the right fuse to check?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last edited:
patoz
Expedition Leader
Well, you lucked out on the first two, so let's see about number three.
1992–2007 are all Fourth Generation, so the factory fuse panels should be the same.
While looking for a manual for my 1993, I found this one for a 1996 on Ford's website. I guess that's as far back as the records go in PDF format. It doesn't say what year on the manual per se, but the copyright date is 2005 on the second page of the document.
http://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/catalog/owner_guides/96ecoog1e.pdf
Skip down to page 332 (near the end) and you will see a diagram of the fuse panel (match this with yours). Page 334 shows a chart that indicates the power door locks are fuse #12.
If that doesn't fix it, check page 333, fuse #6 & 7 which are for the Anti-theft module and the Remote keyless entry module.
When troubleshooting electrical problems, don't forget the Power Distribution Box in the engine compartment under the master cylinder (page 337). Also, there are some circuits that are fused, but not in a fuse panel (page 338).
I hope this manual helps and good luck!
1992–2007 are all Fourth Generation, so the factory fuse panels should be the same.
While looking for a manual for my 1993, I found this one for a 1996 on Ford's website. I guess that's as far back as the records go in PDF format. It doesn't say what year on the manual per se, but the copyright date is 2005 on the second page of the document.
http://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/catalog/owner_guides/96ecoog1e.pdf
Skip down to page 332 (near the end) and you will see a diagram of the fuse panel (match this with yours). Page 334 shows a chart that indicates the power door locks are fuse #12.
If that doesn't fix it, check page 333, fuse #6 & 7 which are for the Anti-theft module and the Remote keyless entry module.
When troubleshooting electrical problems, don't forget the Power Distribution Box in the engine compartment under the master cylinder (page 337). Also, there are some circuits that are fused, but not in a fuse panel (page 338).
I hope this manual helps and good luck!
I've got the factory owners manual. I'll try to remember to take a look-see tomorrow.
Fuse #12 apears to match up, but 6&7 not so much. The manual is a bit hard to decipher because it shows 3 or 4 different versions of the fuse panel, and none of them seem to be specific to a diesel E-350, even though the manual is specific to an E-350. Go figure...
flightcancled
Explorer
You're the best Pat! I'll check that out!
Blasted and bed lined the clearance light guards to remove the chrome.
More importantly I finally found a really good product for removing the remnants of decals, caked on silicone, sap, and grime.
You can see here what one swipe through the center of the big door decal did.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Blasted and bed lined the clearance light guards to remove the chrome.
More importantly I finally found a really good product for removing the remnants of decals, caked on silicone, sap, and grime.
You can see here what one swipe through the center of the big door decal did.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk