Black Friday Ambo
- Thread starter flightcancled
- Start date
flightcancled
Explorer
Huh I wonder if 2.60 is per foot? I can't tell on my phone.
You can just grab disc led modules which are rated for 12v and solder them in. There was a great thread on here but I've looked a few times and I can't find it. Another option would be to buy an LED strip which you can cut to length and try different lengths until you find the right amount of light. For example I might use 3 for Low and 5 for High. A little double sided tape and you're done.
Floor progress:
Tin molded into shape
One layer of insulation down, tin refitted and put in place, then sandwiched into place by the second layer.
Exactly 5 rolls as predicted. All the stock holes were sealed shut except the ones for the seat and seat belts. Grey utility carpet is now going in... as soon as it stops raining!
Speaking of which- does anyone have floor mounting female seat belts lying around? One came off with a fight, but the other was so stuck I twisted the torx bit (size 50 FYI) to death, stripping the bolt in the process and had to cut the whole thing apart to extract the bolt.
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You can just grab disc led modules which are rated for 12v and solder them in. There was a great thread on here but I've looked a few times and I can't find it. Another option would be to buy an LED strip which you can cut to length and try different lengths until you find the right amount of light. For example I might use 3 for Low and 5 for High. A little double sided tape and you're done.
Floor progress:
Tin molded into shape
One layer of insulation down, tin refitted and put in place, then sandwiched into place by the second layer.
Exactly 5 rolls as predicted. All the stock holes were sealed shut except the ones for the seat and seat belts. Grey utility carpet is now going in... as soon as it stops raining!
Speaking of which- does anyone have floor mounting female seat belts lying around? One came off with a fight, but the other was so stuck I twisted the torx bit (size 50 FYI) to death, stripping the bolt in the process and had to cut the whole thing apart to extract the bolt.
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polksfinest
Observer
Cjken you could use the LED can lights for your house at lowes or Home Depot like I did super bright and dim able here's a pic of what I am talking about draws less than 2 amps on
high
That's just one light on high at night
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high
That's just one light on high at night
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flightcancled
Explorer
Floor is all back together. Finally foud a drawback for the utility carpet. It does NOT like to lay around curves. My wheel wells and transmission bump aren't perfect but I had to give up and make some cuts.
More rust fun! I found that my steel box coolant return line had snapped where it connects to the rubber hose going to the heater/AC. Im glad I caught it now, my coolant reservoir dumped out. Now my intuition says that since all the lines are rusty and aren't really removable the best option would be to replace all 4 lines with rubber hose.
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More rust fun! I found that my steel box coolant return line had snapped where it connects to the rubber hose going to the heater/AC. Im glad I caught it now, my coolant reservoir dumped out. Now my intuition says that since all the lines are rusty and aren't really removable the best option would be to replace all 4 lines with rubber hose.
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patoz
Expedition Leader
Alex, it sounds to me like you need to stop looking around. Every time you do, you find more stuff to fix. :hehe:
What are you using to seal the holes in the floorpan from underneath? I was thinking some spray undercoating would work pretty well because it would get in and fill any gaps between the floorpan and patch around the edges, and make a waterproof seal. Of course that area would have to be cleaned also.
BTW, the price of the cab-to-module gasket that Ken pointed you to, is $2.60 per foot. That place is expensive, but when it's an 'Ambulance' part and they are the only source in town, what do you do?
However, I'm thinking that gasket material is a stock item used by every Ford Body Builder that builds rental and fleet box trucks, campers, and utility vehicles, etc. And since these are not 'Emergency Vehicles' subject to all of the government regulations, I'll bet the price is much cheaper also. Just need to find a source.
What are you using to seal the holes in the floorpan from underneath? I was thinking some spray undercoating would work pretty well because it would get in and fill any gaps between the floorpan and patch around the edges, and make a waterproof seal. Of course that area would have to be cleaned also.
BTW, the price of the cab-to-module gasket that Ken pointed you to, is $2.60 per foot. That place is expensive, but when it's an 'Ambulance' part and they are the only source in town, what do you do?
However, I'm thinking that gasket material is a stock item used by every Ford Body Builder that builds rental and fleet box trucks, campers, and utility vehicles, etc. And since these are not 'Emergency Vehicles' subject to all of the government regulations, I'll bet the price is much cheaper also. Just need to find a source.
flightcancled
Explorer
I wasn't planning on doing anything further. I went into the major rot areas and double sealed with silicone, but that's it.
Pat I have a question you will probably know the answer to. I am looking at the AC lines right now as I begin to move the inverter. Right now there are a few major components: shore power, outlets, inverter, and maintainer.
There are two independently wired systems that meet at the outlets. The shore power system (auto disconnect feeding the maintainer and block heater) has its set of wires, and the inverter has a set. Seems to me that the fact that the systems are directly linked at the outlets makes them completely redundant.
Ie when I am running the inverter on the battery I am inadvertently also running the maintainer and the block heater.
Can I just put everything on one system and use my little block heater isolator switch for the heater and maintainer?
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Pat I have a question you will probably know the answer to. I am looking at the AC lines right now as I begin to move the inverter. Right now there are a few major components: shore power, outlets, inverter, and maintainer.
There are two independently wired systems that meet at the outlets. The shore power system (auto disconnect feeding the maintainer and block heater) has its set of wires, and the inverter has a set. Seems to me that the fact that the systems are directly linked at the outlets makes them completely redundant.
Ie when I am running the inverter on the battery I am inadvertently also running the maintainer and the block heater.
Can I just put everything on one system and use my little block heater isolator switch for the heater and maintainer?
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patoz
Expedition Leader
Without seeing an actual wiring diagram or the equipment itself and how it's wired, it's hard to say. So, based on the info you have provided, and if I understand it correctly, I'm going to say the answer is NO at this point.
A few questions to establish existing status. Most of these can be answered just yes or no.
1. Does 120VAC power go from the shore power receptacle, directly to the block heater switch, battery charger/maintainer, all at the same time?
2. Does 120VAC power also go from the shore power receptacle, directly to some or all of the electrical wall outlets?
3. Does 12DC power go from the battery bank directly to the inverter?
4. Does 120VAC power go from the inverter directly to some or all of the electrical wall outlets?
5. Does the shore power receptacle and the inverter send 120VAC power to the same outlets?
6. Does the inverter and charger/maintainer come on at the same time?
7. Is there a relay/transfer switch or a mechanical selector switch to prevent the inverter and the charger/maintainer from being turned on at same time?
If the answer to #6 is yes, and if #7 is no, then you have a big problem.
The inverter and charger should never be operated simultaneously, and configured so that AC current from the inverter output is looping back into the charger input, which is supplying DC charging current to the batteries, which in turn is supplying DC power back to the inverter input, which is now trying to power the battery charger. If this cycle operates very long, it will destroy your inverter. At the very least it will shut it down if it has the proper self-defense mechanisms, such as an internal automatic transfer switch, high temperature cutout switch, etc.
Now that you're totally confused, here is some more good info:
http://www.doityourselfrv.com/rv-inverter-install-diy/2/
http://forum.solar-electric.com/showthread.php?16719-Off-Grid-Inverter-Battery-Charging
A few questions to establish existing status. Most of these can be answered just yes or no.
1. Does 120VAC power go from the shore power receptacle, directly to the block heater switch, battery charger/maintainer, all at the same time?
2. Does 120VAC power also go from the shore power receptacle, directly to some or all of the electrical wall outlets?
3. Does 12DC power go from the battery bank directly to the inverter?
4. Does 120VAC power go from the inverter directly to some or all of the electrical wall outlets?
5. Does the shore power receptacle and the inverter send 120VAC power to the same outlets?
6. Does the inverter and charger/maintainer come on at the same time?
7. Is there a relay/transfer switch or a mechanical selector switch to prevent the inverter and the charger/maintainer from being turned on at same time?
If the answer to #6 is yes, and if #7 is no, then you have a big problem.
The inverter and charger should never be operated simultaneously, and configured so that AC current from the inverter output is looping back into the charger input, which is supplying DC charging current to the batteries, which in turn is supplying DC power back to the inverter input, which is now trying to power the battery charger. If this cycle operates very long, it will destroy your inverter. At the very least it will shut it down if it has the proper self-defense mechanisms, such as an internal automatic transfer switch, high temperature cutout switch, etc.
Now that you're totally confused, here is some more good info:
http://www.doityourselfrv.com/rv-inverter-install-diy/2/
http://forum.solar-electric.com/showthread.php?16719-Off-Grid-Inverter-Battery-Charging
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flightcancled
Explorer
All but 6 are Yes.
The auto-eject for the shore power kills shore power when the engine is running, and the inverter only runs with the engine running (stock anyway). So in effect the design didn't "need" a switch to isolate the systems as built. All 3 outlets are shared by the shore and inverter power systems.
My plan would be to use the isolator switch to kill power to the heater and maintainer except for cold winter starts.
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The auto-eject for the shore power kills shore power when the engine is running, and the inverter only runs with the engine running (stock anyway). So in effect the design didn't "need" a switch to isolate the systems as built. All 3 outlets are shared by the shore and inverter power systems.
My plan would be to use the isolator switch to kill power to the heater and maintainer except for cold winter starts.
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patoz
Expedition Leader
Define 'isolator switch'.
I assume you want to be able to use the inverter with the vehicle parked and the engine off, correct? I also assume you want to be able to use shore power at times with the vehicle parked and the engine off, and charge the batteries during this time also. The problem will occur when you accidently leave the inverter on, and then plug in to shore power if there is no transfer switch to only allow one to operate at a time.
The whole reason for transfer switches is to take the 'Human Error' out of the equation and make it 'idiot proof'. In our case where we are designing and building our own systems, we are much more aware of the situation than the casual RV owner with no electrical background, but we can still make mistakes. Don't forget old man Murphy!
As long as you remember to make sure the inverter and maintainer do not run at the same time to cause that loop I was talking about, you should be OK. As you make any changes, I would also diagram it out and then follow the circuit paths in each mode to confirm this loop can not happen.
I assume you want to be able to use the inverter with the vehicle parked and the engine off, correct? I also assume you want to be able to use shore power at times with the vehicle parked and the engine off, and charge the batteries during this time also. The problem will occur when you accidently leave the inverter on, and then plug in to shore power if there is no transfer switch to only allow one to operate at a time.
The whole reason for transfer switches is to take the 'Human Error' out of the equation and make it 'idiot proof'. In our case where we are designing and building our own systems, we are much more aware of the situation than the casual RV owner with no electrical background, but we can still make mistakes. Don't forget old man Murphy!
As long as you remember to make sure the inverter and maintainer do not run at the same time to cause that loop I was talking about, you should be OK. As you make any changes, I would also diagram it out and then follow the circuit paths in each mode to confirm this loop can not happen.
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flightcancled
Explorer
Ok something occurred to me that I hadn't noticed before as I started rewiring. The inverter was rigged with the rear male chord plugged in to the shore power, and a chord running to the outlets in the back which was plugged into the front.
Does that make any sense? ( Again: I know that there are 2 sets of wires feeding the outlets inside the wall.)
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Does that make any sense? ( Again: I know that there are 2 sets of wires feeding the outlets inside the wall.)
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patoz
Expedition Leader
Alex, it sounds like the inverter may have a relay that is designed to shut it down if it senses the shorepower circuit is active (actually connected to a live shore power outlet), hence the 120VAC connection from the inverter back to the shore power connection. That would also support the, "2 sets of wires feeding the outlets inside the wall". A lot of the larger, more expensive units have this feature, especially if they are designed for use in large RVs, Emergency Vehicles, and the trucking industry.
If you will give me the brand and exact model number of the inverter, I'll look it up and see what I can find out.
If you will give me the brand and exact model number of the inverter, I'll look it up and see what I can find out.
flightcancled
Explorer
That would make a lot more sense! I will see what I can figure out and report back. Thanks a ton Pat!
Managed to find an insurance plan for the ambo that wasn't absolute murder with geico. I have to say I was super annoyed when the "quote" the website gave me tripled after I had already given my payment info! Still the cheapest though....
I've taken a little breather from the ambo but I will be returning to the coolant lines soon.
If anyone has spare female seat belt assemblies I can have or buy on the cheap please let me know. Having to cut my driver's side one apart has left me in a bind.
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Managed to find an insurance plan for the ambo that wasn't absolute murder with geico. I have to say I was super annoyed when the "quote" the website gave me tripled after I had already given my payment info! Still the cheapest though....
I've taken a little breather from the ambo but I will be returning to the coolant lines soon.
If anyone has spare female seat belt assemblies I can have or buy on the cheap please let me know. Having to cut my driver's side one apart has left me in a bind.
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hobietony
Explorer
Are you sh$#@#$ng me??? That place would have saved me untold hours sourcing stuff, including a seal to the cab!
patoz
Expedition Leader
Alex, you can have my seat belts for free. I was going to try to use them to make some extensions for my F250, but I just checked and the buckles are different. The shoulder strap cuts into my neck on the f250, and it drives me crazy.
If I understand you correctly, you need the short driver's side, inside strap with the female buckle and the wiring harness, correct? Or do you just want me to send you both of them? They are Ford gray, BTW.