Black Series HQ Tips, Tricks, and Learning.....

Robbrown27

New member
After seeing that sales video I'm interested how Black Series plumbed the city water hookup. It looks very clean and I know you can find the tap in black. Does anyone have some pictures of the new factory city water tap set-up? All the dealers are quite a drive from me to go look for myself. I also like how they combined the waste dump hookups to the single point, my 2020 has the 2 seperate dumps which is not user friendly in the states.
Im itching for Wyoming and the Feds to open up the wilderness to get out and camp!
 

Bikepals

Member
Great post.. Just so you know the heater pad takes about 4 amps.. less than we thought. We just tested it lately. Some 12volt pads take the same amount.
Good to know. But this is a lot more power than the 12 volt heater pads. 12 volts at 4 amps is 48 watts. 4 amps at 120 volts 480 watts. Plus the inverter efficiency is around 90% which would make it around 533 watt draw. The batteries would be depleted in a short time.
 

swankyabe

New member
Anyone with issues on the reverse backup lights not working on the HQ12? Everything else works fine except for that function. I came from an existing Jayco popup camper setup and the reverse lights worked fine, so pretty confident the truck side is ok. Anyone have an easy way to test?
 

Bikepals

Member
I don't know why i watched this video on youtube today but i did and i have some questions for you guys i also have a 2020 HQ15 and i don't have a city water hookup my outside stove has the power port on the outside of my unit and i Had to request the wood/storage hold with the jerry can holder. here is the video
I also have the HQ15 2020. I bought mine in November, it was delivered to the dealership October Last year. I don’t have the city water connection. The power port for the outdoor stove is inside like the video. I do have the wood storage and jerrycan holders.
I‘m glade you shared this video because it also pointed out that the plastic clip that the door hooks to when you open it has now been switched to metal. When there is any wind the clip gives and the door slams shut. The last time we camped the door slammed closed on my arm and I have a nice bruise. I’m having my dealership order me the metal one. Thanks
 

Bikepals

Member
In case you don't ever need to fold down the table into a bed (as in our case) you can create a bunch more leg and knee room. Take the existing frame of the table off, and build two simple legs out some 3/8 steel. I re-used the bottom legs as well as the brackets that screw into the table surface. See pictures.

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I am also going to do this conversion of the table. My wife cut her leg on one of the bolts sticking out on the table, and there is little leg room. How did you secure the table to the floor for travel?
 

dags

Adventurer
Was getting bored staying at home during the whole Covid thing, so started the next HQ15 project. Adding a single 310W solar panel, with a second charge controller, on the front of the trailer. The solar panel is 65x39 inches in size, and I got it from the local solar installer. Normally these panels go on the roof of a house. I decided to go with a second charge controller, as the orientation of this new panel is too different from the existing ones, that a single charge controller will likely not be able to get the most power out of all panels. Plus this panel is a 40V panel, whereas the others are all 20V panels. I went with a Victron 100/30 charge controller. Maybe the scariest thing was to drill holes in the roof to run the wires, and hope I can fish the wires from the inside of the front storage compartment. The first hole I drilled no luck, there was something in the way. But the second hole was right on, and I was able to fish the wires! I ran the output of the charge controller out of the bottom of the storage compartment to the divider box next to the hand brake, and tied it in there. That is the same connection as the Anderson plug, which runs straight to the batteries (and the 50A resettable fuse in the battery compartment).

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I'm thinking of adding a solar panel on the roof of my Leer on the truck bed and connecting it to the Anderson plug - does anyone know if you can do this without issues? I have a HQ19 and not sure if the charge controller would have to be changed
 

Bikepals

Member
I'm thinking of adding a solar panel on the roof of my Leer on the truck bed and connecting it to the Anderson plug - does anyone know if you can do this without issues? I have a HQ19 and not sure if the charge controller would have to be changed
The Anderson plug on the trailer goes directly to the batteries, not through the solar controller In the trailer. You would have to connect your solar panel to a solar controller then to the Anderson plug on the trailer.
 

HQ15fan

Member
Good to know. But this is a lot more power than the 12 volt heater pads. 12 volts at 4 amps is 48 watts. 4 amps at 120 volts 480 watts. Plus the inverter efficiency is around 90% which would make it around 533 watt draw. The batteries would be depleted in a short time.

My heater pads draw about 4A @ 12V nominal. They are NOT 120V pads. I don't think you want to put ~500W into a single pad, it will melt the plastic of the water tanks :)
 

HQ15fan

Member
I am also going to do this conversion of the table. My wife cut her leg on one of the bolts sticking out on the table, and there is little leg room. How did you secure the table to the floor for travel?

I just put two bolts through each support leg and secured it to the floor that way. so the table doesnt move anymore. You should also look at Michael's MOD video on the floating table he did. That one is pretty nice, as it secures the table to the side of the trailer, but the drawback is he needed to bolt the support through the side wall of the trailer and deal with making it look nice on the outside.
 

HQ15fan

Member
The Anderson plug on the trailer goes directly to the batteries, not through the solar controller In the trailer. You would have to connect your solar panel to a solar controller then to the Anderson plug on the trailer.

Bikepedals is correct. You need a separate charge controller. Most "suitcase" solar solutions do have a charge controller already built in, and if so you can hook that up to the Anderson connector no problem. If you're building your own custom setup, you'll have to search for a controller that fits your need. For example, does it need to be water proof? The Victron controllers are not.
 

HQ15fan

Member
Ok next mod is up! I decided I didn't like to heat up 6 gallons of water just to do a few dishes, or take a shower. It takes 30 minutes to fully heat all that water, and is just a waste of propane. If you always want access to hot water, you need to keep the hot water heater turned on, more waste of propane. Plus, the thing sounds like a small jet engine when it is heating. So I removed it, and installed a tankless on-demand Girard 2GWHAM water heater.

The cool thing about the Girard is that it fits in the existing hole in the side of the trailer. It is actually a bit smaller than the Atwood/Dometic that was in there. But no problem, Girard provides a door that fits the exact opening needed for the Atwood/Dometic. That is awesome! Those guys thought about this.

The install isn't that hard, just takes some time. Couple key points for the install, if you're going to do this yourself. 1) Use butyl tape on the outside to make it water proof. 2) Since the Girard is not as wide as the old heater, you need to install a 2x4 (or similar size) vertically next to the Girard, to provide it with extra support so it doesn't move around. 3) The Girard comes with a nice simple control panel to set the desired output water temperature. it needs 2 wires. Good news! The Atwood uses four wires that run to the white panel with the two switches in your HQ switch panel. I just used two of those wires and installed the Girard control panel. See pictures. 4) The Girard has a valve on the cold water inlet so you can reduce the volume going in. I highly recommend setting that valve so that it lets in as little volume as possible, which is 0.8 GPM. That is plenty of flow to take a good shower. Anything more flow is a waste IMHO. 5) You use these a bit differently than the Atwood/Dometic, where you mix in cold water to get the desired shower temperature. With the Girard, I set the temperature I want for my shower (109F) on the control panel, and turn the shower valve to full hot. Reason being, if you mix in cold water, the shower valve will reduce the hot water flow at the same time. If the flow drops below 0.7 GPM the Girard turns off as a protection mechanism. If that happens you're now enjoying a nice cold shower :)

First, drawbacks of the Girard (or any on demand). 1) You can't get a slow trickle of hot water. The minimum flow is about 0.8 GPM to get the thing to kick in. 2) You can't plumb in a hot water re-circulation system anymore (as John has done), see point #1.

Now the benefits! 1) You always have hot water available! Yes, that was the point :) 2) The thing is super quiet, you don't hear it at all. The water pump makes way more noise. 3) You just saved 51 lbs of weight (6 Gallons of water). 4) I was shocked how dirty the water was that came out of my old hot water heater. When you drain it with the outside drain plug, not all water comes out (plug sits too high). When I had the heater out and held it on its side, this dark and murky water came out. Bah. 5) No more water bypass needed in front of the heater to winterize. Just blow it out or put antifreeze in the lines as usual. 6) It has an anti-freeze protection. It will briefly heat the water in the pipes inside the water heater if it senses a temperature below 38F. 7) I discovered the Curt emergency brake backup battery box next to the Atwood in a place that is not really accessible on my HQ15. But that story is for another post.

Ok, here are the pictures!
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Bikepals

Member
I just put two bolts through each support leg and secured it to the floor that way. so the table doesnt move anymore. You should also look at Michael's MOD video on the floating table he did. That one is pretty nice, as it secures the table to the side of the trailer, but the drawback is he needed to bolt the support through the side wall of the trailer and deal with making it look nice on the outside.
Yes I like the table Michael did but I didn’t realize he put bolts through the wall to the outside. He didn’t show that on the video. Thanks for the info.
 

HQ15fan

Member
Yes I like the table Michael did but I didn’t realize he put bolts through the wall to the outside. He didn’t show that on the video. Thanks for the info.

Correct. I talked to him about how he did it exactly. It makes sense he had to do bolts through the wall, unless there happens to be a stud exactly centered between the two seats to attach it to, and that is not likely. Even if that is true, I'm not sure I would do it that way, if someone sits on the end of the table, that is a lot of leverage to rip the screws out of the stud.
 

Shafferandy

New member
Hello all, great thread. Thanks for all the excellent info.

General question:

I have an HQ17 (2019) does anyone know if there are legs you can put on the Dometic awning for stability in light breeze?

thanks,
Andy
 

HQ15fan

Member
Hello all, great thread. Thanks for all the excellent info.

General question:

I have an HQ17 (2019) does anyone know if there are legs you can put on the Dometic awning for stability in light breeze?

thanks,
Andy

The Fiamma awning that came with my HQ15 has built-in legs, see picture. Sounds like you have a different brand awning?

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