Stoffregen Motorsports
Explorer
That air dam is definitely a sure sign that you're headed down the OCD path. But I like it. I would never have thought of that.
Blender, My LX450/FZJ80 + FJ45esk + GM + Land Rover crazy concoction
- Thread starter Metcalf
- Start date
Metcalf
Expedition Leader
Thank you. I am trying to balance trying a few new things vs getting done....
Metcalf
Expedition Leader
A good big bite today...
I think this is the most complete the front end has been so far. I was able to tack weld the upper mount scoop in place. I made the lower air damn that bolts to the lower radiator mounts. I mounted the headlight adjusters in the FJ40 grille. The headlights where mounted in the new adjusters. I test fit the bezel. Finished off the upper brace on the passenger side.
Once I had all that done I decided to assemble the front end and see how things looked. I even moved the tires around to see how the clearance is looking everywhere. I think you can see why I had to remove the 'corner' in the grill for tire clearance with the big 40s! This is at full bump, but without the axle articulated. I still have some room to work with and that is a good thing.....
Some misc pics.
I think this is the most complete the front end has been so far. I was able to tack weld the upper mount scoop in place. I made the lower air damn that bolts to the lower radiator mounts. I mounted the headlight adjusters in the FJ40 grille. The headlights where mounted in the new adjusters. I test fit the bezel. Finished off the upper brace on the passenger side.
Once I had all that done I decided to assemble the front end and see how things looked. I even moved the tires around to see how the clearance is looking everywhere. I think you can see why I had to remove the 'corner' in the grill for tire clearance with the big 40s! This is at full bump, but without the axle articulated. I still have some room to work with and that is a good thing.....
Some misc pics.
synonymous
New member
Where did you find those extended weld nuts?
Metcalf
Expedition Leader
I get them in a bulk pack from McMaster-Carr.
https://www.mcmaster.com/#weld-nuts/=167saje
They have metric versions too. I am using M6 versions. That seems like a good size to replicate other stuff on the Toyota body.
Metcalf
Expedition Leader
Some metal origami today.
There was a big hole on the sides of the radiator where fresh air could bypass the radiator ( on both sides ). I folded up a piece of metal that would fill up most of that space. This bracket will also help brace the upper radiator mount. I will add a section of bulb seal to help close things up along the back of the bracket to the radiator tank.
Just another detail....
There was a big hole on the sides of the radiator where fresh air could bypass the radiator ( on both sides ). I folded up a piece of metal that would fill up most of that space. This bracket will also help brace the upper radiator mount. I will add a section of bulb seal to help close things up along the back of the bracket to the radiator tank.
Just another detail....
redthies
Renaissance Redneck
A lot of guys wouldn't see that. Your attention to detail is great, as always.
On the topic of headlights, while I get the desire to have great light output, those JW Speaker type headlights make me want to puke. They are sooooooo ugly, especially in old iron. (Don't even get me started on those stupid squinty eye headlight visor things people seem to be sticking on their JKs!). Again, I get it, having just gone through the "stock headlights suck" issue with my 100 and my 2014 Dodge. Why the OEM headlights have to be so terrible on a 2014 truck costing north of $50,000 is a mystery to me! I did hear from the Hella rep that there are new laws coming regarding minimum headlight performance in new vehicles.
On the topic of headlights, while I get the desire to have great light output, those JW Speaker type headlights make me want to puke. They are sooooooo ugly, especially in old iron. (Don't even get me started on those stupid squinty eye headlight visor things people seem to be sticking on their JKs!). Again, I get it, having just gone through the "stock headlights suck" issue with my 100 and my 2014 Dodge. Why the OEM headlights have to be so terrible on a 2014 truck costing north of $50,000 is a mystery to me! I did hear from the Hella rep that there are new laws coming regarding minimum headlight performance in new vehicles.
Metcalf
Expedition Leader
I'm not a huge fan of the modern LED headlight look, but I had them sitting around. I figured I would give them a try. While I don't love the look, the quality of lighting should be fantastic.
redthies
Renaissance Redneck
I hear you. My CJ7 suffers from crap headlight syndrome and I'm debating H4 housings. But given that it won't start this morning to plow the driveway I'm pissed off at it and threatening to sell it again. If I wanted a Jerp that doesn't start I could have a $500 Cherokee instead of a $5000 CJ!
Metcalf
Expedition Leader
Something new....
I am trying something a bit different on mounting a hydro assist ram. The 80-series chassis has a factory steering stabilizer that is mounted with a metal tapered bushing at the pitman arm TRE. After doing a bit of digging around I found an AFCO GM(?) TRE that would screw right into the PSC 1.5" cylinder with the 5/8-18 treads. That side will need a jam nut also, but that is easy off the shelf...
The hard part was trying to figure out something for the cylinder shaft that was also 5/8-18, but male RH threads. I looked high and low for a female TRE that would fit that without any luck. I also looked for a very large diameter TRE that I could make a RH-LH adapter without any luck. In the end, I decided that I had enough space to use a short factory 5/8-18 tie rod adjuster. This allowed me to convert from RH male threads to LH female threads to use the matching LH version of the same AFCO TRE I found for the fixed end of the cylinder. The tie rod adjuster will also allow me to fine tune the position of the piston vs throw of the system.
To get everything to fit together I needed to slightly expand the taper in the Toyota TRE with a 1.5" per foot reamer. It really didn't need much
I had the most issues getting the old drag link off the vehicle and apart! It was slightly damaged in the roll that totaled the vehicle so I couldn't use it for setup. I have a new heavy duty unit on the way from FROR. I need that to get though mockup. I can tinker with a few things but will be in a holding pattern to the new drag link shows up.
Some misc pics....
The stock bent drag link....opps....
Not to self. Use some anti-seize on the TREs when assembling things. The knuckle side of the drag link was STUCK. I had to weld on some box tubing to help hold it in the vise. Without it things just spun.
I needed a small cheater to get the TRE on the knuckle side moving....
Running the tapered reamer into the factory toyota pitman side TRE. It was actually pretty close from the factory. It took maybe 10 minutes to get the right fit. I will make a spare and throw it in the parts bag.
New AFCO TRE in the new reamed hole in the Toyota pitman TRE.
I am trying something a bit different on mounting a hydro assist ram. The 80-series chassis has a factory steering stabilizer that is mounted with a metal tapered bushing at the pitman arm TRE. After doing a bit of digging around I found an AFCO GM(?) TRE that would screw right into the PSC 1.5" cylinder with the 5/8-18 treads. That side will need a jam nut also, but that is easy off the shelf...
The hard part was trying to figure out something for the cylinder shaft that was also 5/8-18, but male RH threads. I looked high and low for a female TRE that would fit that without any luck. I also looked for a very large diameter TRE that I could make a RH-LH adapter without any luck. In the end, I decided that I had enough space to use a short factory 5/8-18 tie rod adjuster. This allowed me to convert from RH male threads to LH female threads to use the matching LH version of the same AFCO TRE I found for the fixed end of the cylinder. The tie rod adjuster will also allow me to fine tune the position of the piston vs throw of the system.
To get everything to fit together I needed to slightly expand the taper in the Toyota TRE with a 1.5" per foot reamer. It really didn't need much
I had the most issues getting the old drag link off the vehicle and apart! It was slightly damaged in the roll that totaled the vehicle so I couldn't use it for setup. I have a new heavy duty unit on the way from FROR. I need that to get though mockup. I can tinker with a few things but will be in a holding pattern to the new drag link shows up.
Some misc pics....
The stock bent drag link....opps....
Not to self. Use some anti-seize on the TREs when assembling things. The knuckle side of the drag link was STUCK. I had to weld on some box tubing to help hold it in the vise. Without it things just spun.
I needed a small cheater to get the TRE on the knuckle side moving....
Running the tapered reamer into the factory toyota pitman side TRE. It was actually pretty close from the factory. It took maybe 10 minutes to get the right fit. I will make a spare and throw it in the parts bag.
New AFCO TRE in the new reamed hole in the Toyota pitman TRE.
Metcalf
Expedition Leader
Moving along.....
I was able to get a rough mockup done on the hydro assist ram in preparation for the positioning of the winch/bumper mounting. Overall it ended up working out really well! The TRE's where a bit different to work with. I ended up making a mini-mount for the fixed end of the ram out of some thick bar stock. It was drilled and reamed to create the tapered hole for the TRE. I decided to mount the fixed end TRE vertically. This should make disassembly a little easier in the future since I will be able to drift out the tapered end from the top. The general spacing and layout worked out better too. The mount is a short stocky little unit that should have very little leverage on the frame rail. I will even be able to brace it to the grill crossmember to spread out the load a little bit. I am temped to add a 10 gauge frame pad up around the sides of the frame to spread the load out even more. I will sleep on that one....
The 8" stroke ram ended up being just about perfect for length. The ram bottoms out JUST before the steering box does internally. I also took a rough stab at adjusting the steering stops so they bottomed out the same time as the ram. I was able to adjust the steering stops in a little bit without any ill effects. The tires still cleared the radius arms and the CV joints didn't feel like they where binding or anything. I am really liking how tight this chassis can turn with a 40" tire and the proper wheel. The front frame is only 30" wide to the outside.....but the axles are 63" wide and I am almost 80" wide with the wheel/tire package.
Some misc pics....
The fixed end ram mount. I need to add a brace to the grill crossmember along the back. I am still temped to add a frame bad to spread out the load from that mount a little bit more around to different surfaces of the frame.
Preview of the winch mounting position with the paper mockup.
The skidplate that I am building under the 8274 winch drum as part of the mounting system will also be able to protect the hydro assist ram as planned. Yipee.
I did have to modify the aluminum hawse for the winch mount ever so slightly. I ended up needing to take 3/16" off one side to help it clear the bumper....
More soon.
I was able to get a rough mockup done on the hydro assist ram in preparation for the positioning of the winch/bumper mounting. Overall it ended up working out really well! The TRE's where a bit different to work with. I ended up making a mini-mount for the fixed end of the ram out of some thick bar stock. It was drilled and reamed to create the tapered hole for the TRE. I decided to mount the fixed end TRE vertically. This should make disassembly a little easier in the future since I will be able to drift out the tapered end from the top. The general spacing and layout worked out better too. The mount is a short stocky little unit that should have very little leverage on the frame rail. I will even be able to brace it to the grill crossmember to spread out the load a little bit. I am temped to add a 10 gauge frame pad up around the sides of the frame to spread the load out even more. I will sleep on that one....
The 8" stroke ram ended up being just about perfect for length. The ram bottoms out JUST before the steering box does internally. I also took a rough stab at adjusting the steering stops so they bottomed out the same time as the ram. I was able to adjust the steering stops in a little bit without any ill effects. The tires still cleared the radius arms and the CV joints didn't feel like they where binding or anything. I am really liking how tight this chassis can turn with a 40" tire and the proper wheel. The front frame is only 30" wide to the outside.....but the axles are 63" wide and I am almost 80" wide with the wheel/tire package.
Some misc pics....
The fixed end ram mount. I need to add a brace to the grill crossmember along the back. I am still temped to add a frame bad to spread out the load from that mount a little bit more around to different surfaces of the frame.
Preview of the winch mounting position with the paper mockup.
The skidplate that I am building under the 8274 winch drum as part of the mounting system will also be able to protect the hydro assist ram as planned. Yipee.
I did have to modify the aluminum hawse for the winch mount ever so slightly. I ended up needing to take 3/16" off one side to help it clear the bumper....
More soon.
Stoffregen Motorsports
Explorer
Using a TRE on a ram assist is a great idea. If it's a quality joint, it should last a very long time.
What wheels are you using? Size and offset/back space?
What wheels are you using? Size and offset/back space?
Metcalf
Expedition Leader
The wheels are Trail Gear Creeper beadlocks. 17x9 with 3.75 backspacing.
I hope the TRE idea works out on the assist ram. The adjuster also seems to be really handy also since it helps dial everything in as far as stroke and throw.
Stoffregen Motorsports
Explorer
I was wondering how you achieved that tire clearance with those monster tires.
My friend Trevor Huiskens runs full hydro steering with OEM TRE's on his personal rig. I think he built it that way as a kind of in-your-face to the hardcore crowd, but it actually works.
My friend Trevor Huiskens runs full hydro steering with OEM TRE's on his personal rig. I think he built it that way as a kind of in-your-face to the hardcore crowd, but it actually works.
Metcalf
Expedition Leader
Tie rods last a long time compared to most rod ends at least as far as wear. A rod end might be ultimately stronger. I just can't stand the noise they end up making. I enjoy trying new.....or is it old?.....things.