BLT Offroad KLR

[HenryJ]

I think I did purchase the same as yours. Is it brighter than the dim bulb that was stock?

It is legal as long as it goes to a solid stop lamp. In fact the Oregon Motorcyle License study guide recommends flashing your brake light several times prior to braking. This will get the attention of the drivers following.
The Team Oregon Motorcycle Safety Training course also recommends flashing the brake prior to a stop.

The officer is correct that it gets attention. Distracting, perhaps but they do see it. I think if he reads up on the codes he will find it legal. How can they regulate the number of times your brake light flashes before you stop? Even without the strobe I might apply the brakes a few times to slow before I stop. I could see a problem if it were to just strobe, but going on solid after a time, I see no problem.
I have the halogen version on my TW200 and I like it. I wish it were just a little brighter. Hopefully the LED will do that for me.

I have seen lots of headlamp modulators , but only a couple tail lamp modulators. One I did see on a big full dress bike really got my attention. That is when I started looking for them.

A bike can really slow down fast when compared to a car. Yes even the under braked KLR I would like them to know for sure that I am on the binders

 

[Cabrito]

Henry wrote - "I think I did purchase the same as yours. Is it brighter than the dim bulb that was stock?"

It's brighter for sure. I do notice that depending on the viewing angle you don't see all the rows of LED's.

I've seen them in some videos of bikes on a dirt trail and they looked cool. Seemed like you could pick them out through the dust. It's really foggy where I live and we have lots of crazy traffic in and around San Francisco, so those are some reasons I wanted to try it out.

Maybe I'll go for it and switch to the strobe for a while and see if I get busted. I carry the stock bulb just in case the LED fails or I get busted for some reason.

The LEO that I spoke to also said that in his recollection it is not legal to modify the existing brake light, and suggested an aux brake light.

 

[HenryJ]

This one is the one they will likely reference: NHTSA PDF (steady burning lights)
My stance would be that the light is steady burning while applied. It does not continue to flash , that would not meet the requirements.

I can see how it could be argued either way. In Europe it would not be an issue. I think in Oregon it will be an easy win. Take a copy of the Motorcycle Handbook as proof of the legality.
California Motorcycle Handbook Print and carry a copy of the handbook, or better yet stop by the DMV and get one. This is a direct quote:

Brake Light

Your motorcycle’s brake light is usually not as noticeable as a vehicle’s—especially when the taillight is on. If the situation permits, help others notice you by flashing your brake light before you slow down. It is especially important to flash your brake light before you slow: * For a tight, fast turn off a high-speed highway.
* Where others may not expect it (in the middle of a block or at an alley).

If you are being tailgated, it’s a good idea to flash your brake light before you slow.

Do not argue with an officer. They are right in their mind. You will not win. A copy of that in hand and I think the judge will throw out the citation, should you receive one.

 

[Cabrito]

You've really done your homework on this that's for sure.

The NHTSA document makes it sound pretty cut and dry. No flashing lights allowed.

I don't think I would get a citation but maybe a fix it ticket.

What has your research told you about Oregon?

 

[HenryJ]

Here is another site that may be helpful: Motorcycle lighting laws

Oregon is pretty liberal. Our motorcycle handbook has about the same lines about flashing the brake lights prior to a stop.
Oregon does permit the brake light to flash:

(11) Brake lights for motorcycles may flash intermittently, provided that the brake lights do not override the rear turn signal function. [1983 c.338 §458 (7); 1985 c.16 §240 (7); 1985 c.69 §1 (7); 1985 c.71 §4 (7); 1985 c.393 §13 (7); 1985 c.420 §6 (7); 1997 c.492 §2; 2003 c.158 §24]

California does address this as well and does permit flashing the brake light: CA VEHICLE CODE SECTION 25250-25282

(c) Any stoplamp or supplemental stoplamp required or permitted by
Section 24603 may be equipped so as to flash not more than four
times within the first four seconds after actuation by application of
the brakes.

I do not know if that would superecede federal regulations. I am now pretty comfortable with the legality of it though :bike_rider:

 

[Cabrito]

Thanks for another post with good info.

(c) Any stoplamp or supplemental stoplamp required or permitted by
Section 24603 may be equipped so as to flash not more than four
times within the first four seconds after actuation by application of
the brakes.

I''d say that the CA one here is pretty definitive. Still though, I think my tail light strobes more than four times but not longer than four seconds.

Lots of food for thought.

I think I've taken your thread off topic enough now, so you better post up another mod to get it back on track. :sombrero:

 

[HenryJ]

Its ALL good. I appreciate the nudge to learn more about the stop lamp issue.
I keep thinking I am nearing the end of mods for the KLR. Next week I should have a few more pieces of the puzzle.

My current focus has been getting ready for fall weather. I intend to extend my riding season beyond what I have done in the past.

 

[HenryJ]

Finished up a couple "See and see me" upgrades during the last week.

I installed the DDM 35W Single Hi/Lo Motorcycle 6000k HID Kit. This replaced the 100/90w halogen bulb that I had been running. The kits is designed for two headlamp automotive applications since it has a second set of wiring to go to the "other" headlamp. I cut that set off and heat shrunk the wires to protect them. That lessened the arms on that octopus a little.
The install took , probably a couple hours. Most of the time spent figuring out how I wanted to stash everything. There is a compact ballast, what I assume is a relay controller and a fuse. All these are stowed around the rest of the electrical stuff above the coolant expansion tank. I used some heavy duty velcro to mount the ballast and controller.
I removed the tank, seat and I had to remove the headlamp reflector so that , once split, I could reinstall the rubber boot around the headlamp bulb housing. Not a fast process with all the dis-assembly required.

Pretty cool gizmo. The high / low change is made by moving the bulb. A small solenoid is enclosed in the back of the housing. The bulb shield extends into the housing nearly, if not actually touching the front glass of the reflector. I was a bit skeptical and thought it would offer a huge dead spot. that was not the case.
I like the light color better. The cut-off is pretty good. There is a little light scatter low to the side and a bit of a hole up close. It is definitely better than the halogen bulb that I had been using and I see nothing that will blind or distract oncoming traffic. The cutoff is rather rounded to the sides. Probably less glare than a halogen with a flatter or less crisp cut-off.
The CEC XenonBlue XB H4 130/90W bulb in the TW200 is as good, or slightly better. It has a very crisp cut-off.
The advantage to the HID will be the low power consumption. Maybe durability and lifespan, although those are yet to be determined.

Prior to that install I did the LED Taillight Conversion Kit. This was very straight forward. It probably took fifteen minutes tops.
Bright! What can I say. It blows away the stock "dim bulb". View from the sides is better and the light behind is very good. The blink-blink-blink-flashety-flash-flash before going solid should really get some attention. I like it. I can already see an improvement in the distance following vehicle give me.

During all this, I finally found my popping problem. A cracked vacuum line cap. This tee in the line led to the intake side of the carburetor. Obviously leaning things out on deceleration. Now replaced with a vinyl cap I have no more popping. All that talk of loose head pipes, lean jetting, idle speeds and the rest of the "voodoo mechanics" was wrong. Lesson learned. Popping = look for intake side leaks.

Earlier. Last week. I had some starting problems. The battery was weak. It was an Interstate AGM. My luck with Interstate has never been good. They always seem to resist a charge. Not knowing the history I replaced it with a Powersports AGM from NAPA.
With 16k on the odometer I decided to check the starters brushes for wear. I managed to break one of the head pipe studs, but a little heat and double nuts I was able to remove the broken stud and install a new one. Stainless steel acorn nuts are on it now. The brushes look good. Bearings in good shape. I cleaned it all up and put it back together. During this time I noticed that the cable from the starter to the solenoid was "crunchy". Rather rigid. Time to build a new one. I already had all I needed and bumped the cable size slightly , I think. That did seem to help the engine cranking, although the new battery didn't hurt either. Check your cables. From the feel of mine it had internal breaks and may have welded itself together internally at some point.

Next up a couple little changes. Some grip-pier foot pegs and a low profile magnetic drain plug.

It really is starting to feel "right". It may just be that I am learning the beast and getting more comfortable with its function too.

 

[Cabrito]

During all this, I finally found my popping problem. A cracked vacuum line cap. This tee in the line led to the intake side of the carburetor. Obviously leaning things out on deceleration. Now replaced with a vinyl cap I have no more popping. All that talk of loose head pipes, lean jetting, idle speeds and the rest of the "voodoo mechanics" was wrong. Lesson learned. Popping = look for intake side leaks.

Hmm..

I wonder if that's my problem. Better take a look.

 

[HenryJ]

Hmm..

I wonder if that's my problem. Better take a look.

I went through all the "cures". I checked the head pipe and looked for exhaust leaks. I found none. I enriched the pilot screw up to 2 1/2 turns. I bumped the idle speed up to 1200-1400 rpm. Some of that kinda seemed to help a little at times.
Once I replaced that cracked vacuum cap , bingo. No more popping. Lowered the idle and tried to make it revert. No pops.
I may lean the pilot a little eventually. Right now it is running very good though.

I would suggest using some aerosol carburetor cleaner and spray around to see if you can find a leak. It will alter the idle speed on a running engine when it gets ingested. That can work if the leak is close to the intake. Farther out and the effects may not be noticeable.

Mine was the line from the petcock to the intake adapter. I have heard of some having issues with the vacuum petcock. I have no plans to gut mine.

I removed my CA emissions package. If you still have yours look for leaks in those lines and the little seal for the vacuum line under the fuel cap. Mine was dry rotted. I am sure this leakage was why it popped a little when I bought it. It got worse a little while after removal. That had to be when the cap cracked.

If you want to see if that system is the cause of your popping , pull the line from the tee between the petcock and intake. Cap it to eliminate the emissions system vacuum leaks. That will help you trouble shoot where the problem might lie if it fixes your , popping.

 

[HenryJ]

The HID headlamp works pretty well. I like it

The light is a better color and the spread pretty good. Not as much as the euro-pattern offroad lights on my truck , but much better than halogen.

I have been trying to come up with some tank panniers. I stitched together some fit formed from marine vinyl, but was not happy with the lid. I came across a pair of surplus military bags. Buckles , straps and hooks added to them attach the bags to the tank. The bottom has two wide plastic clips that attach them much like the tank bag. The two upper straps are adjustable to tighten them up. I added a drawstring top to the inside and a couple snaps to better secure the flap.

Those should offer some wind protection for the legs as the fall weather approaches.

the seat received a sheepskin cover. That Corbin seat is better than stock for sure, but it needed a little "sum'thn" to feel good. This seems to work.

 

[Cabrito]

Henry,
Nice work on converting the army bags to panniers.

Where did you get your Sheepskin cover? I just got the Corbin Dished seat and although I've only ridden twice I can't stand it. It totally changed the ergo's of the riding position and it keeps me sliding forward. I was thinking a cover might help a bit.

 

[HenryJ]

Where did you get your Sheepskin cover? I just got the Corbin Dished seat and although I've only ridden twice I can't stand it. It totally changed the ergo's of the riding position and it keeps me sliding forward. I was thinking a cover might help a bit.

The sheepskin cover does help that for sure. I too had an issue with sliding. It was not a deal breaker for me , but my son sliding around made both he and I uncomfortable.

I looked around and the Ikea sheepskins were tempting. Several ebay covers also looked like options. In the end I bit the bullet and bought Alaska leather.

I bought the Dualsport Full Saddle Deluxe. Using the discount code "deadsheep" (Thanks to ADV) saved me almost the cost of shipping.
I sort of thought the front would be a pocket to slip over the seat "pommel". Not. This has three elastic straps. The back two with buckles. I could see how it could easily be duplicated on a raw skin. The elastic straps appear to be of good quality. Better than what I would have available. Although it could probably be duplicated with a comparable skin. I was unsure of the quality available in the cheaper skins.

I have not had enough miles on it to give a definitive thumbs up, but I think it will get two when that time comes. It has stopped the sliding around issue. Funny how it can be both cool in the heat and warm in the cool mornings. Nice not to get scalded after it has been in the sun a while for sure.
I found the Corbin low dish seat better than stock, but still lacking a little padding for my taste. The extra cushion of the sheep skin is about right.

I feel good about the expense. I bought the seat right and even with the cost of the sheepskin, I am still in it less than 2/3 the cost of the seat alone.
In the end (no pun intended) what ever it takes to keep the back side happy will reflect in the attitude on the top side. Well worth the expense? Probably :bike_rider:

On a side note, the panniers worked out great! Perfect fit and act as lowers for those cold mornings. They offer my legs some good protection from the elements. Exactly what I wanted. They work well enough that I will not need to wear the heavy insulated pants until very late fall.

 

[cnskate]

Looks just like the one I broke my foot on! congrats! BTW, did I send you a link to my trip report for our big trip?

 

[HenryJ]

Looks just like the one I broke my foot on! congrats! BTW, did I send you a link to my trip report for our big trip?

Jeez! I'll try not to follow in your footsteps :lol:
I did not get a link to your trip report. I look forward to seeing it.:victory: