Boomer the Quadravan 4x4 Camper
- Thread starter spencyg
- Start date
Thanks! Coming from you and your amazing International 7500 build as well as the pop top van, I'm humbled.
I stole away a few minutes yesterday to bang out a couple holders for the temperature station and remote sensors.
The two sensor pods will just attach with double sided tape. The raw aluminum one will live in the refrigerator, and the black painted steel unit will probably live in the spare tire carrier under the cover.
They all fit very snug, so the only unit I'm going to add maybe some zip-ties to is the exterior sensor since it will see the highest amount of jostling.
SG
I stole away a few minutes yesterday to bang out a couple holders for the temperature station and remote sensors.
The two sensor pods will just attach with double sided tape. The raw aluminum one will live in the refrigerator, and the black painted steel unit will probably live in the spare tire carrier under the cover.
They all fit very snug, so the only unit I'm going to add maybe some zip-ties to is the exterior sensor since it will see the highest amount of jostling.
SG
The problem with learning to weld is you start looking for stuff that just "needs" to be welded. It's a whole new sub-sickness to go along with the general modify something sickness people like us seem to have. Hehe.
Progress on Boomer hasn't been as good as I would like. I've been in the throes of DRAM 2 planning and logistics which has stolen the little bit of time I would have otherwise had to accomplish something.
That being said, there are a few items I've been plodding through.
Firstly, I've got the brackets finished up for the new Groco manual fuel tank transfer valve. It will slip right into the same mounting position that the old water/fuel separator dump handle was in which makes it convenient from the driver seat without at the same time being in the way of everything. Interestingly, the valve has 3 positions. Tank 1, Tank 2, and Off. I was going to try and leverage the "off" position as a sneaky anti-theft measure, but in the interest of simplicity and false confidence in the good of human beings, I opted out of that one. So the bracket needed to act as a stop for the tank 1 position, as without the stop it woudln't be clear where the lever should be in for that tank position. Now, full CCW gives you the forward tank, and full CW gives you the rear tank. I'm going to run all new supply and return lines back to each tank during the final install.
I've also been goofing around with an idea on a burner-top hot water heater which I could hook right into the cold water tap. This would be really handy for heating dish water, coffee water, etc. Not much on this front yet, but stay tuned as I'm feeling good about it...
New Rancho 9000XL's for the front. I already have 9000XL's in the rear, but the 5000's I've been running for the last 6 years are both insufficient, and destroyed. Eventually I'm going to spend the big boy dollars on a custom tuned Bilstein or Fox setup. For now these will still be a good improvement which I can roughly tune into my driving style.
Inside the van, I mounted the indoor/outdoor temp monitor. I'm looking forward to this simple yet purposeful addition....
And the fridge temp sensor....
I'm loaded down with work and full weekends at the moment, but with DRAM approaching I must find the time to get these items installed. I also have an auxillary rear basket fabrication project which will need to magically occur before November 7th as well. I'm not stressed. I'm not stressed. I'm not stressed. I'm not stressed (gah...it isn't working!) I'm not stressed. I'm not....
SG
That being said, there are a few items I've been plodding through.
Firstly, I've got the brackets finished up for the new Groco manual fuel tank transfer valve. It will slip right into the same mounting position that the old water/fuel separator dump handle was in which makes it convenient from the driver seat without at the same time being in the way of everything. Interestingly, the valve has 3 positions. Tank 1, Tank 2, and Off. I was going to try and leverage the "off" position as a sneaky anti-theft measure, but in the interest of simplicity and false confidence in the good of human beings, I opted out of that one. So the bracket needed to act as a stop for the tank 1 position, as without the stop it woudln't be clear where the lever should be in for that tank position. Now, full CCW gives you the forward tank, and full CW gives you the rear tank. I'm going to run all new supply and return lines back to each tank during the final install.
I've also been goofing around with an idea on a burner-top hot water heater which I could hook right into the cold water tap. This would be really handy for heating dish water, coffee water, etc. Not much on this front yet, but stay tuned as I'm feeling good about it...
New Rancho 9000XL's for the front. I already have 9000XL's in the rear, but the 5000's I've been running for the last 6 years are both insufficient, and destroyed. Eventually I'm going to spend the big boy dollars on a custom tuned Bilstein or Fox setup. For now these will still be a good improvement which I can roughly tune into my driving style.
Inside the van, I mounted the indoor/outdoor temp monitor. I'm looking forward to this simple yet purposeful addition....
And the fridge temp sensor....
I'm loaded down with work and full weekends at the moment, but with DRAM approaching I must find the time to get these items installed. I also have an auxillary rear basket fabrication project which will need to magically occur before November 7th as well. I'm not stressed. I'm not stressed. I'm not stressed. I'm not stressed (gah...it isn't working!) I'm not stressed. I'm not....
SG
My weekends have been jammed up with so much extra activity lately that Boomer work has taken a necessary back-burner position. Fortunately we got back from a trip to VT this weekend a bit early in the afternoon, so I got to work with the manual fuel transfer valve install. I was hoping to splice into the stock lines for now since I am trying to get ready for DRAM2 and am limited on time. Unfortunately (and fortunately, I suppose), splicing nylon line into rubber hose isn't really meant to be and after struggling in the dirt for a few minutes, I opted to just strip all the lines out and run all new rubber. The valve now sits nicely just below the beneath the driver seat and can be easily reached while mobile.
A 90 degree turn of the lever brings you from front take to rear tank, and visa versa. I used the old hole in the carpet and floor from the previous fuel/water dump valve, so the cutout isn't as precise as I would normally expect (demand). With some interior updates on the horizon , the state of the shag carpet is a mere temporary issue.
This punch list isn't being consumed nearly fast enough....
SG
A 90 degree turn of the lever brings you from front take to rear tank, and visa versa. I used the old hole in the carpet and floor from the previous fuel/water dump valve, so the cutout isn't as precise as I would normally expect (demand). With some interior updates on the horizon , the state of the shag carpet is a mere temporary issue.
This punch list isn't being consumed nearly fast enough....
SG
Mwilliamshs
Explorer
prepping to spend some money and have two questions: How long is your awning (front of van to rear)? And do you happen to know what size (gallons, etc) that DOT propane tank you ditched was? I've found specs of a 1993 (different body style) B190 (not a falcon) showing a 35 pound propane capacity (~8 gallons). If the old tank is still around it'll be on the tag. Thanks
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Mwilliamshs
Explorer
Thanks for the info. I think I've found a 10 or 12 foot (scaling a pic, awning spanning a garage door of uncertain width) TransAwn 2000. If it doesn't work out I'll be in the market till a bargain arrives. Going back to school sucks short-term.
AndrewMoizer
New member
Maybe this helps?
I was reading this topic the other night (was a fun read). IIRC that tank looked similar to the one on our 1992 RoadTrek 190P (which we just got). I happened to snap a picture of the plate on it, so here it is in case it helps you out.
cheers,
Andrew
I was reading this topic the other night (was a fun read). IIRC that tank looked similar to the one on our 1992 RoadTrek 190P (which we just got). I happened to snap a picture of the plate on it, so here it is in case it helps you out.
cheers,
Andrew
Mwilliamshs
Explorer
That's awesome of you Andrew! This is why ExPo works, people helping people. Here's what I get from that label...
Serial Number (SER NO) is self-explanatory. MAWP is Maximum Allowable Working Pressure, in this case (and all steel DOT propane tanks I've bothered to read) 312 PSI @ a temperature, in this case, 650F. I think MDMT is Maximum Deflection (or Distortion or?) some such measurement or spec that's used in tank testing. Doubt it's useful info for a consumer. That tank was made in 1991 and has 10.0 gallon (water/actual capacity) tank but only holds 8.0 gallons of propane (20% minimum airspace for safety) so that's probably where the 8 gallon number we were thinking of came from. It measures 12" diameter (OD) and 23" overall length (OL) with a Shell Thickness (SH) of .117", Head Thickness (HD) .099", SA is Surface Area, 6.7 ft2.
SE? (2:1) I dunno. The W and RT-3 in the upper left hand corner are also mysteries.
The reason I want to understand these things is not only curiosity but also there are some laws/rules that apply to DOT tanks that might not matter so much for portable tanks. Namely, I've heard DOT tanks are only good for 12 years then may be recertified for an additional 5, 7, or 12 years...I have some research to do before buying a used tank! (new ones are $$$$)
Serial Number (SER NO) is self-explanatory. MAWP is Maximum Allowable Working Pressure, in this case (and all steel DOT propane tanks I've bothered to read) 312 PSI @ a temperature, in this case, 650F. I think MDMT is Maximum Deflection (or Distortion or?) some such measurement or spec that's used in tank testing. Doubt it's useful info for a consumer. That tank was made in 1991 and has 10.0 gallon (water/actual capacity) tank but only holds 8.0 gallons of propane (20% minimum airspace for safety) so that's probably where the 8 gallon number we were thinking of came from. It measures 12" diameter (OD) and 23" overall length (OL) with a Shell Thickness (SH) of .117", Head Thickness (HD) .099", SA is Surface Area, 6.7 ft2.
SE? (2:1) I dunno. The W and RT-3 in the upper left hand corner are also mysteries.
The reason I want to understand these things is not only curiosity but also there are some laws/rules that apply to DOT tanks that might not matter so much for portable tanks. Namely, I've heard DOT tanks are only good for 12 years then may be recertified for an additional 5, 7, or 12 years...I have some research to do before buying a used tank! (new ones are $$$$)
I couldn't be happier about my decision to ditch the DOT tank in favor of a portable one. I believe ALL propane tanks have an expiration date. As you alluded to, they can be re-certified but I don't know what the procedure or cost is to do this. With a BBQ bottle you can get it filled nearly anywhere, and if you travel to some far off land and the tank fittings are different, you just need an adapter. The only real "tricky" issue is mounting them, but you're a clever guy so this really wouldn't be a limiting factor either.
SG
SG
AndrewMoizer
New member
Glad the picture is of some use. As I mentioned we only bought this camper about a month ago. As near as I can tell the tank is well past the re-certify period. In looking to get it filled the first place wouldn't do it. The next two did without issue. The second place had the adapter needed to convert the "car" type filler port to the normal tank threads (he wasn't officially allowed to fill this type of tank, but did & does. The nearest "auto" place was 30+km away apparently). The last place was a normal automotive place and they didn't bat an eyelid about filling it. In the fullness of time I'm going to look into what it would take to get it re-certified.
However, there's no doubt that getting a standard 20# bottle filled is considerably easier, and more readily available. I just had a thought though, I wonder if there are different rules for having a tank on a vehicle, rather than a trailer? Certainly transporting anything over 20# has different, and more stringent rules here in Canada.
cheers,
Andrew
However, there's no doubt that getting a standard 20# bottle filled is considerably easier, and more readily available. I just had a thought though, I wonder if there are different rules for having a tank on a vehicle, rather than a trailer? Certainly transporting anything over 20# has different, and more stringent rules here in Canada.
cheers,
Andrew