Brake issues
- Thread starter Amesz00
- Start date
That would probably inhibit braking somewhat.
Yes. It doesn't really seem possible. I'm trying to recollect exactly what they said. Now I'm thinking what they said was that there are two wheel cylinders on each front wheel (is that correct?) and that one of the two on each side was frozen. The braking wasn't completely terrible before I had them look at them.. But there is a marked difference before and after. I'd now say the Fuso brakes better than our 80 Series Land Cruiser. Perhaps one wheel cylinder freezing is a common occurrence hence the complaints.
gait
Explorer
there's two design problems .... the brakes aren't particularly good forwards, and almost non-existent backwards (reversing),
then there's maintenance, and if both shoes on each front wheel need similar adjustment at the same time there's a reasonable chance both cylinders are functioning, then if rear wheel shoes also need adjustment there's a reasonable chance the cylinders are working.
always worth checking every so often, it can be done without removing wheels while adjusting brakes.
I'm intrigued at the idea of a balance valve between two front wheels .... never seen that on any vehicle ... there's one between front and rear on my Mitsi, which is linked between chassis and axle so adjusts for load. Very common on lots of vehicles. Needed adjusting with change to big (single) wheels.
Andrew, if your new shoes do not work out as planned, I have a few options for you:
Dynatrac Pro Rock 80 (a matching pair of course with 360mm discs IIRC)
A shiny new Atlas Four Speed Transfer Case, which should get your low low crawl ratio down into the 180:1 - 190:1 range. This allows you MUCH more control in technical terrain and also slows the truck measurably, thereby avoiding the "momentum" strategy, which is quite often bouncy, uncontrolled and damaging to the trail or your truck.
http://www.advanceadapters.com/products/atlas-4-speed-transfer-case-builder/
To go on the back of your shiny new Atlas, we will round out your shopping trip on your AMEX Black Card with a transfer case parking brake. This multiplies your braking power by the ratio of your ring and pinion (5.29 - 5.89?), so a small rotor and caliper can be used.
https://www.highangledriveline.com/e_brake.html
You might as well toss in a four link suspension, some ORI dampers, custom aluminum beadlock wheels and maybe a Gigglepin winch for those times that you just can't drive out.
Cheers
Mmmmm stop, please, you're making me drool. And my wife is looking at me like I'm weird. Actually that happens normally so it's probably nothing to do with this. haha.
8.5k USD for a rear axle is quite a pretty penny tho..
A while ago I enquired to axletech for pricing on their smaller 3000 series planetary axles. Got told 12k euro per end. That inc lockers, CTIS, disc brakes, whatever ratio and width. Interesting that pricing was euros, I thought they were American.
I kinda came to the conclusion that if modifying to that extent (changing axles, tcase and suspension), I'd probably be best off just buying a U1450 or similar mog...
The reason they don't work in reverse is they are single acting drums (I'm not sure if this came up already or not), so instead of both shoes being hinged at top or bottom, the front shoe is hinged at the bottom, with th rear shoe from the top. Doubles the self-actuating effect forwards, but no self-acting at all backwards.
Obviously mitsu couldn't get the crappy brakes to pass braking tests any other way.
It is interesting what Kerry brought up about a balancing valve, I'll look into that.
Obviously mitsu couldn't get the crappy brakes to pass braking tests any other way.
It is interesting what Kerry brought up about a balancing valve, I'll look into that.
gait
Explorer
we did the leading/trailing bit early on in this thread.
I can't imagine the need for a balancing valve between front wheels, the pressure on each side should be equal. A brake pressure difference between front and rear may be needed, so valve included.
I have never heard of a balancing valve side to side either. The service manager, while a very nice guy, did not strike me as the most mechanically astute person so something could have been lost in translation between the mechanic and me. The overall manager did walk by as I was talking to the service manager and noted that it had taken a long time to resolve the pulling problem (5 hours of labor?) and that he had taken a couple of drives in the truck with the mechanic to assure that the problem was resolved and the brakes working properly.
There is absolutely no reason that bleeding your brake system should take a long time, nor should it require a lot of brake fluid.
Buy, rent or borrow a vacuum bleeder, a good one, not a $10 from eBay.
This will accomplish four things when used properly:
1) if there are any leaks anywhere in your brake system, you will not be able to draw a vacuum.
2) with all of the air out, i.e. proper vacuum, there is nothing to bleed. This means the fluid goes into every little nook and cranny that it is supposed to be in.
3) the exact amount of fluid that you need goes in, with none left-over on your garage floor or in a jar. A given volume of air is replaced by that same volume of brake fluid.
4) You can vacuum and fill your brake system in just a matter of minutes, all by yourself.
Buy, rent or borrow a vacuum bleeder, a good one, not a $10 from eBay.
This will accomplish four things when used properly:
1) if there are any leaks anywhere in your brake system, you will not be able to draw a vacuum.
2) with all of the air out, i.e. proper vacuum, there is nothing to bleed. This means the fluid goes into every little nook and cranny that it is supposed to be in.
3) the exact amount of fluid that you need goes in, with none left-over on your garage floor or in a jar. A given volume of air is replaced by that same volume of brake fluid.
4) You can vacuum and fill your brake system in just a matter of minutes, all by yourself.
pugslyyy
Expedition Vehicle Engineer Guy
What magical vacuum bleeder do you use for this?
quickfarms
Adventurer
so with two wheel cylinders per wheel on four wheels how do you magically bleed the drakes with one brake bleeder?
SkiFreak
Crazy Person
Be it a good or a bad thing, the FGs in Australia do not have ABS.
I must admit... even if I stand on my brakes, getting the wheels to lock up on the road is definitely a challenge (and I don't have a box on the back of my truck yet). I guess that locking the wheels on a dirt road would be easier. but I have not really tested that.
So far I have only done a maintenance bleed of my brake system, replacing old fluid for new, but I have not experienced any issues doing this manually. I should add, I did not do the bleed by myself; I had the missus pumping the brake pedal and monitoring the fluid level in the tank while I was under the truck.
Decanter
Adventurer
Vacuum tanks are worth their weight in gold. I am a believer.
pugslyyy
Expedition Vehicle Engineer Guy
Bleeding the non-ABS parts of the system is straightforward, it's bleeding the separate ABS system that is the PITA. Maybe having a MUT-III makes it easier.