Brake job, what is mandatory?

[troy]

Not specifically looking for advice on how to do it, but more on what your take is on the necessity replacing certain items. I thought aobut posting on a more general forum on the board, but was afraid of all the Toyota guys saying to replace everthing with brand new parts from the dealer :sombrero:

1. Flush brake fluid? I'm sure this stuff has never been replaced (probably 10 yrs+). Only added to when needed and bleeding brakes when necessary. I will likely do this, but curious on how often others do this.

2. New soft brake lines? Again, I'm sure the lines are at least 5 yrs old, if not more. They look fine, and have no cracks. Will this improve performance due to old lines not holding pressure? I'm thinking of going with new lines off of a '95 YJ in the front, as they are a little longer. Rears would get new ZJ lines.

3. Calipers? I'm doing the disc swap on the rear and have a set that look like they were replaced recently, so going to leave them. On the front however, I've never replaced in the 6 yrs I've owned the Jeep, but they stop true and straight.

4. Quality of replacement pads and rotors. Is it worth it going to a better pad and rotor. It seems like EBC pads and Centric rotors are talked about as one of the better options, but they are of course much more than the parts store brands.

I'm swapping in new front and rear axles and figure now is a good time to freshen everthing up while they are on the bench. Anything else I'm missing? This is my DD and a '98 XJ with an OME lift and 31 inch BFG ATs.

Thanks for your thoughts.

 

[alosix]

1.) Fluid flush : it def sounds like its due. Most normal brake fluid picks up water and does dumb things over time. After you get everything else done flushing everything through sounds like a good plan.

FWIW though, if you're replacing that many brake lines you will be darn close to a full flush before you get all of the air out of the system anyway.


2.) If I was going to replace the soft brake lines I'd just put the stainless ones in. They improved pedal feel a good bit on my TJ.

3.) Calipers : unless they are leaking or the bleed screws won't open I'd probably leave them alone.

4.) I've found that my TJ is really easy on front rotors. I don't understand why. But it is.

Pads: My last set on the jeep has been Hawk HP plus. It stops a lot better then it used to. Much more cost effective upgrade compared to some of the big brake kits out there for me.

Jason

 

[Black Dog]

Calipers don't usually need replaced unless they are showing obvious damage. But the pistons and stuff inside them can go bad so it wouldn't hurt to do those.

 

[comrad_zeelaagee]

1. Flush brake fluid?

start with the right rear and work furthest to closest... you'll need a quart- probably less

2. New soft brake lines?

not necessary as stated- but the stainless ones are much more durable. go with Crown lines... and since you have a lift- you should do these anyways to aleviate stress on them during articulation.

3. Calipers? I'm doing the disc swap on the rear and have a set that look like they were replaced recently, so going to leave them. On the front however, I've never replaced in the 6 yrs I've owned the Jeep, but they stop true and straight.

not a biggie imo.

4. Quality of replacement pads and rotors. Is it worth it going to a better pad and rotor. It seems like EBC pads and Centric rotors are talked about as one of the better options, but they are of course much more than the parts store brands.

sorry- can't help you here

Anything else I'm missing? This is my DD and a '98 XJ with an OME lift and 31 inch BFG ATs.

a ZJ porportioning valve from a non-ABS... this is the final step to a complete disc swap and from what i hear is the true factor to getting good braking from the upgrade- i still need to get mine in.

however- if you're going to have everything out- why not do a WJ knuckle/rotor/caliper/tie rod/ball joint upgrade?

 

[Wyowanderer]

1. Just do it. Bleed them now, and then once yearly. Brake fluid absorbs water and water in your brake lines will raise hell with your braking components. Motive Products .com (no affiliation) has a great pressure bleeder for around fifty bucks if you're a DIY type.

2. Leave them be, and inspect them when you change the oil. When you see cracks or change calipers, time for new.

3. If they work, leave them on, unless the piston boots are cracked/torn/missing. Then change them.

4. I'd buy OEM rotors from the parts house, and the best pads I could get that didn't have a lifetime warantee. If you want pretty rotors, buy them knowing they won't likely make your rig stop enough better to be worth the money.

Have fun.

 

[mdnky]

1) Most shops will do this for around $35 give or take a few if you don't want to do it yourself, or don't have the equipment for it. The "industry" recommends it about every 30K miles. Some manufacturers recommend it, some don't. Honda was the 1st to make this mainstream. As long as the system stays sealed, it's not a huge deal. But I'd definitely do it every couple of years and definitely if you have to break into the system for any reason. The idea is to keep moisture out of the lines, since water isn't compressible the same way the brake fluid is.

2) Can't hurt to replace these, but unless cracked or damaged its not a major issue. I'd always keep a few spares when off-road just in case. As far a stainless, that's not a good idea for everyone. BE VERY CAREFUL and be absolutely sure that the stainless lines you get DO NOT have aluminum fittings. They're extremely dangerous in braking systems with stainless hoses due to electrolytic corrosion. You can google that for more information.

3) They should be fine as long as there is no visible damage and they don't stick. Some shops sell rebuild kit and if you do replace them then chances are you're only going to get "professionally rebuilt" replacements anyways. I'd leave them alone until there's a problem. Just make sure to grease the slide pins every so often. Sometimes all that's needed is the hardware kit, not the whole caliper. Especially true since most replacements (aftermarket sources) don't include the hardware, just the caliper itself, unless you buy "loaded calipers".

4) I've had the best luck with Wagner ThermoQuiet and EBC brand pads on multiple types (and use) vehicles. Prices are decent and they're pretty easy to come by. Right now the only OEM pad I'd consider using over those brands would be on some of the 2000 and later GM trucks/SUVs.

 

[comrad_zeelaagee]

i forgot to mention that there's a special drum brake tool that makes removing the shoes much easier- this will be helpful getting those beasts off the backing plate.