Brian894x4’s Land Cruiser FZJ80 build thread.
- Thread starter Brian894x4
- Start date
adventureduo
Dave Druck [KI6LBB]
Dan can get the JDM fans .. but they run about $299 or something like that all said and done.
Brian894x4
Explorer
New update:
Installed some new switches for the lights and rear locker....
I had switches to control these things, but decided to do something a little different.
First, the George LED tasklight map light replacement, was just awesome. I did that mod a while ago, but it did have one drawback. It was actually too bright for use while driving at night. So, I installed one of these as a switch for it.
http://www.theledlight.com/pdf/controls/mini_dimmer.pdf
You can see in the picture that the dial switch is located on the left dash panel. This turns the map light on, controls it's brightness and turns it off. I would say it dims to about 30% before shutting off and then you have a pretty continous choice in the 30-100% brightness range. I'm very happy with it. But I'm not 100% sure how this would affect the circuitry of the George LED, or if it hurts it at all. So far, so good, though.
Two other 3 position switches control the front fog/off road lights. The fog light dash switch can be turned on manually, or turned on, which allows a finger switch on the shifter to turn the fog lights on/off.
The reason for this is that my fog lights are too bright for on coming traffic, so I want to be able to turn them on/off just as I would the hi beams and having a switch on the shifter, makes it very convient to switch the lights on and off quickly and hassle free. Before I had to constantly try to find the dash switch in the dark and it was a hassle.
The off road light switch has three positions. Off...manual on...and on with the high beams. This is the position I use most often. It's nice to able to turn them just turn on and off with the high beam switch. This was not easy to wire up, because the Land Cruiser headlights have constant positive power and are ground switched. The auto off switch, add complication too.
Finally, the locker switch. I don't have factory lockers. Instead, I'll be running an ARB pump and rear air locker. The pump will in the engine compartment using Slee's bracket. Bracket is already installed, but the pump is not in quite yet. Neither is the rear locker, although it's sitting in my garage.
I decided to go with just a rear air locker and no front locker for the time being to save money.
I'm using the factory locker switch. The switch is very handy. Its has one power imput and two power outputs. Once hooked up to power, one output has power at the first switch click (front locker) and then both outlets have power at the second switch click front/rear locker).
The way I wired it up, the first click will turn on the air compressor. The second click will continue to power the air compressor and turn on the rear locker. I've also added two LEDs to indicate which is powered. I know I could have hooked up the dash lights and installed the bulbs, but I just didn't want to remove the cluster.
If I decide to eventually go with a front locker, I can easily add another switch to power the compressor and wire up the locker switch to fire both lockers.
Installed some new switches for the lights and rear locker....
I had switches to control these things, but decided to do something a little different.
First, the George LED tasklight map light replacement, was just awesome. I did that mod a while ago, but it did have one drawback. It was actually too bright for use while driving at night. So, I installed one of these as a switch for it.
http://www.theledlight.com/pdf/controls/mini_dimmer.pdf
You can see in the picture that the dial switch is located on the left dash panel. This turns the map light on, controls it's brightness and turns it off. I would say it dims to about 30% before shutting off and then you have a pretty continous choice in the 30-100% brightness range. I'm very happy with it. But I'm not 100% sure how this would affect the circuitry of the George LED, or if it hurts it at all. So far, so good, though.
Two other 3 position switches control the front fog/off road lights. The fog light dash switch can be turned on manually, or turned on, which allows a finger switch on the shifter to turn the fog lights on/off.
The reason for this is that my fog lights are too bright for on coming traffic, so I want to be able to turn them on/off just as I would the hi beams and having a switch on the shifter, makes it very convient to switch the lights on and off quickly and hassle free. Before I had to constantly try to find the dash switch in the dark and it was a hassle.
The off road light switch has three positions. Off...manual on...and on with the high beams. This is the position I use most often. It's nice to able to turn them just turn on and off with the high beam switch. This was not easy to wire up, because the Land Cruiser headlights have constant positive power and are ground switched. The auto off switch, add complication too.
Finally, the locker switch. I don't have factory lockers. Instead, I'll be running an ARB pump and rear air locker. The pump will in the engine compartment using Slee's bracket. Bracket is already installed, but the pump is not in quite yet. Neither is the rear locker, although it's sitting in my garage.
I decided to go with just a rear air locker and no front locker for the time being to save money.
I'm using the factory locker switch. The switch is very handy. Its has one power imput and two power outputs. Once hooked up to power, one output has power at the first switch click (front locker) and then both outlets have power at the second switch click front/rear locker).
The way I wired it up, the first click will turn on the air compressor. The second click will continue to power the air compressor and turn on the rear locker. I've also added two LEDs to indicate which is powered. I know I could have hooked up the dash lights and installed the bulbs, but I just didn't want to remove the cluster.
If I decide to eventually go with a front locker, I can easily add another switch to power the compressor and wire up the locker switch to fire both lockers.
Brian894x4
Explorer
New update....
So my lockerless 80 is finally half lockered. I put an ARB in the rear finally got the project finished over the weekend. It's been a long drawn out project, mainly because I could never find the time to take the 80 in to get the locker put into the diff.
Land Cruiser Northwest here in Portland installed the ARB into the diff for me. I wired and plumbed it and used the factory locker switch myself.
Slee's ARB air pump mount is a pain to install, but an absolute genious design! I have no idea how I would have mounted a pump in the engine compartment without it. The pain comes from the tight working quarters to get the mount installed, but it's a breeze once the mount is actually installed. The air pump just slides right in and it works great, even for the full size compressor that I have.
The air manifold block is another Slee part that relocates the ARB compressor relays to the firewall, where there's more room. The block uses two already predrilled holes in the firewall (at least I had the holes and used them). The block also allows the use of additional accessories, like a guage (I didn't use on) plumbing to an air tank (I didn't use that either) and an air hose fitting.
I did add an air hose fitting and have the ARB air hose from my truck. This will be my back up tire air source, with the powertank being the primary tire air source.
I used the factory locker switch but wired it up a little differently for this set up. The switch has two positions. Position one turns on the ARB compressor. Position two, fires the rear locker. While in position two, the ARB compressor still gets power, thanks to how the switch is designed, making it perfect for this type of set up.
If/when I add a front locker, I'll just add a seperate switch for the compressor and wire the dial switch conventionally for the front/rear lockers.
So far so good. No leaks, unlike the ARB in my truck. I had no idea you could fire and turn off the ARB multiple times without the compressor coming back on, when everything is sealed properly.
I'd like to put one up front, but it's so much $$$$$. Considering that it's primarly an overlander and not so much a hardcore trail rig, it's hard to justify the expense of a front ARB. I know it could come in handy in the snow or getting me unstuck from some muddy trail, but I've got other plans that I'd rather invest in first...
Next on the list is Metal Tech sliders, as soon as they get a set assembled for me later this month...
So my lockerless 80 is finally half lockered. I put an ARB in the rear finally got the project finished over the weekend. It's been a long drawn out project, mainly because I could never find the time to take the 80 in to get the locker put into the diff.
Land Cruiser Northwest here in Portland installed the ARB into the diff for me. I wired and plumbed it and used the factory locker switch myself.
Slee's ARB air pump mount is a pain to install, but an absolute genious design! I have no idea how I would have mounted a pump in the engine compartment without it. The pain comes from the tight working quarters to get the mount installed, but it's a breeze once the mount is actually installed. The air pump just slides right in and it works great, even for the full size compressor that I have.
The air manifold block is another Slee part that relocates the ARB compressor relays to the firewall, where there's more room. The block uses two already predrilled holes in the firewall (at least I had the holes and used them). The block also allows the use of additional accessories, like a guage (I didn't use on) plumbing to an air tank (I didn't use that either) and an air hose fitting.
I did add an air hose fitting and have the ARB air hose from my truck. This will be my back up tire air source, with the powertank being the primary tire air source.
I used the factory locker switch but wired it up a little differently for this set up. The switch has two positions. Position one turns on the ARB compressor. Position two, fires the rear locker. While in position two, the ARB compressor still gets power, thanks to how the switch is designed, making it perfect for this type of set up.
If/when I add a front locker, I'll just add a seperate switch for the compressor and wire the dial switch conventionally for the front/rear lockers.
So far so good. No leaks, unlike the ARB in my truck. I had no idea you could fire and turn off the ARB multiple times without the compressor coming back on, when everything is sealed properly.
I'd like to put one up front, but it's so much $$$$$. Considering that it's primarly an overlander and not so much a hardcore trail rig, it's hard to justify the expense of a front ARB. I know it could come in handy in the snow or getting me unstuck from some muddy trail, but I've got other plans that I'd rather invest in first...
Next on the list is Metal Tech sliders, as soon as they get a set assembled for me later this month...
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LexusAllTerrain
Expedition Leader
waldrtw said:
Any pictures available?
Brian894x4
Explorer
Mlachica said:
It was between Slee, Hanna and the Metal Tech. I like all three. I was thinking about the Slee step sliders, but decided against them after seeing detailed pics, because I don't like how they hang kind of low. I don't really like the look either, although I'm sure they're a fine product that work as advertised.
Metaltech is a local company to me, which I can just drive over and pick up a set and actually even have them install them for me for a nominal fee, which makes my life a lot easier. That pushed it over the top for me. I don't have to worry about paying freight costs, finding a freight house to have them shipped to, etc.
But I also really like Metaltech's design over the others. They are a bit lighter, which I like. I like the kick out design, I REALLY like the cat protection, since my lift is only 2.5" and minimal and I like the design that allows for an airtank or battery to be stored in the open space between the frame and slider and bolted directly to the slider. I don't know if I'll use the option, but I like having the ability to put something there at some future date.
The kick out is something you don't see on most 80 sliders. There's arguments against them, if you do a lot of rock crawling. But I'm more likely to find myself up against a tree or hill side on a narrow trail, so the kick outs really make sense for my application.
And finally, I think they look cool.
Thanks Tim, I'd like to see your pics too.
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Brian894x4
Explorer
Looks good Tim!
Were the birfs a total loss or were you able to just repack and reseal?
Were the birfs a total loss or were you able to just repack and reseal?
Photog
Explorer
lacrits68 said:hi!
could not resist....here in Sweden we pay 7,50$ for a gallon gas and even more on dieselfuel!! Govenment takes out high taxes on gas! ( and dont forget annual roadtax, for my disco 2 -99 1700$.
you guys have like 50% off....sale on gas!
--Jan--
How much of your income do they take in taxes?