Brian894x4’s Land Cruiser FZJ80 build thread.

[kcowyo]

I still can't get used to seeing you post up with pics of an 80. It's kind of like when Spiderman traded his red & blues for the all black costume.

Good feedback on selectable vs. fulltime lockers from a guy who knows based on real world experience.

Nice job Brian. :clapsmile

 

[locrwln]

I finally figured out how to link a photo of Ali's moonglow pearl with black rims. If you go to the album, you can see the rest of the photos.

Go here.

Jack

 

[Brian894x4]

Couple of updates>

First, here's my short write on the hand throttle:

http://www.brian894x4.com/LChandthrottle.html

The only mods I've finished so far are some minor things like adding front mud flaps. This weekend, I plan to add the duel battery system and interior wiring for accessories.

Speaking of interior accessories, I racked my brain about how I would install a laptop mount. I didn't really want to buy a whole new mount, and I didn't want to drill any holes in the floor.

So, I decided to remove the center console. It's kind of big and useless anyway, to me. In it's place, I bolted to existing holes, a modified version of the laptop mount I had in my truck.

It's a little hokey and it's just a work in progress. But I like the open space. It does make the interior feel bigger and I like being able to reach behind the seat much easier while sitting up front.

Here's a couple of pics. The hardest part about building a computer mount is making it so that the mount is rock steady. Having run computer mounts for years, the last thing I want is my computer bouncing around while driving on the washboard roads. Using the console bolt holes, the mount is surprising rock solid. The aluminum metal plate gives it additional stability and will act as a mounting plate for other accessories, such as possibly my Ham radio, extra cig plugs, cup holder and a fuse, which you can see sitting on the mount to test fit.

Like I said, it's all a work in progress. Not as clean as I would have liked, but I'll likely make a number of changes before it's done.

 

[blupaddler]

Nice!

Good webpage on the puter too!

 

[Brian894x4]

Thanks!

Here's another update. I started on my duel battery project today.

I decided to basically copy what I had in the truck, except this set up is a lot easier with both batteries in the engine compartment. Special thanks to Cruiser Dan over on Mud for being able to so easily supply the FJ80 battery tray and little parts that made this such an easy project. Also, Christo at Slee for having such an awesome product as the washer relocation kit. I was really surprised that the FJ80 battery tray would just bolt right up so easily. Of course, some very minor trimming was needed to clear the radiator, but no biggie. Other than my overprotective heater hose and routing of the connecting wire, the set up almost looks stock.

It's not completely finished yet as I ran out of time, buy you get the gist in the pictures. The Yellowtop optima is my auxliary battery and connects to the main redtop starter battery via a 200Amp Wrangler NW relay.

In my truck, I had a 3 way switch where in one position, the relay would come on with the ignition, and the other position, it would come on manually or it could turned off manually. This allowed me to jump either battery with the flick of a switch or have the batteries just connect automaticly when the truck was started. Anyway, I will probably copy that same system.

On the redtop battery, the battery connection is set up like this. The battery connects to a 200amp fuse, which then splits one wire to the relay and auxiliery battery and one wire connecting to the stock Land Cruiser battery cables. I have a backup cable stored away next to the battery in case the main fuse for any part of that convoluted wiring fails out in the middle of nowhere.

The 40 amp Maxifuse holder on top of the battery is my main interior accessories power supply. I meant to run that off of the auxiliary battery, so I'll have to fix that. That one wire will go into the cab to a central fuse box in between the seats and power all interior accessories, including radios, refrigerator, rechargable flashlight, computer, GPS, other lights, etc, etc.

Once the ARB bumper, winch and off road lights are added, they will be tied directly into the yellowtop battery. In the end, everything that is not stock will run off of the Yellowtop battery. Once the vehicle is shut off, there is no way any of my accessories could drain the main starter battery. But both batteries will be charged by the stock alternator when the vehicle is running and both batteries will power the winch if/when it's needed.

The Optima batteries sit a good bit lower than the stock battery, but I find this much better, as there's more room to work with on top of the battery and there's more safety margin in the event of an accident.

More later as I continue with the project....

(now I just gotta figure out where the heck the ARB compressor is going to go?????)

 

[Life_in_4Lo]

nice work, you are moving fast!

Slee sells a ARB compressor bracket & related items for a clean install.

 

[Mlachica]

Looking great Brian!

I'm jealous...I need to get my dual batteries together. About how much did all the oem stuff cost?

Here's the link to the said arb bracket, you'll need the air manifold as well. I need to do this part first because the po mounted the arb where the aux battery belongs. HERE

Edit: I really like the heater hose idea, very functional and overprotective!!!

 

[toyrunner95]

hey was looking at your lap top stand, and it looks like your center console sits on top of it. just a thought, u might want to reverse the bolts, the threaded side might scratch console, thats the problem with my cb mount. now on the flip side. u dont want to scratch the passanger. so u may want to cut the threads off at the end of the nut and use thread lock. thats just a thought.

 

[Brian894x4]

Here's a couple of updates on the Land Cruiser. The last week or so, I've completed the duel battery project, added a switch console and an auxiliary electric engine fan.

The duel battery project that I mentioned in the prior post is now complete and works great. The system uses two Optimas. A red top starter in the stock location and a yellow top deep cycle on the passenger side.

I used the Slee wiper fluid bottle relocation kit, which is a nice convenience and fit perfectly. Then I installed a FJ80 battery tray and associated parts, including tie downs and bolts, which I sourced from CruiserDan on Mud. Everything bolted in nicely, except for some very minor trimming of the battery tray, which was super easy.

The Yellow top connects to the Red top via a 200 amp relay. A switch in the cable turns the relay on. It's 3 position switch. Position 1, turns the relay on when the ignition is turned on (automatic). Position 2, turns the relay off manually. Position 3, turns the relay on manually. Normally, I have the switch in the position that allows the relay to connect the batteries, when the engine is started and disconnected when the engine is turned off. If the starter battery dies, then the relay can be turned on manually, via power from the auxiliary battery. If the auxiliary battery dies, then the ignition can turn on the relay.

The auxiliary battery also powers an auxiliary fan that I bolted up. JDM rigs apparently came with an auxiliary electric fan for rigs with rear AC. I don't have rear AC, but since it was a simple, nearly bolt up deal, I bought a little fan at an autoparts store. This will serve as a back up (although research on Mud indicates that auxiliary electric fans seem to have minimal effect). However, auxiliary fans do improve AC performance at low speed, so it may come in handy on those really hot days in the desert this summer.

I have a single feed line from the auxiliary battery that runs into the cab into a central console switch panel. This powers all of my interior accessories, so that nothing other than the stock OEM equipment is run off of the starter battery.

The center console was built as a stand alone unit that replaces the stock center console. It has an integrated laptop mount. A switch panel houses a volt meter for the auxiliary battery, main power cut off switch for the interior accessories, duel battery relay switch on top, as well as indicator LEDs for the relay, rear flashing lights and auxiliary fan.

On the side of the switch panel are switches for the auxiliary fan, rear flashers, and rear back up lights. Two cig lighter plugs are also located on this panel. Also mounted to this console is the Ham radio, a CB radio (not installed yet), rechargeable mag light, feed line junction box with 3 additional cig lighters.

I haven't finished this project yet. The feed line will continue to the rear cargo area, where I'll have a few more cig lighter plugs, some additional lights and other accessories. The feed line will also power the rear flashers and rear back up lights when they are finished.

That's all for now. Ya, I know I said I was going to keep this project simple. I guess I couldn't stick to that. But I did do things a little differently. Everything is designed so that it is bolted in with no cutting or drilling and can be easily removed.

I also decided I'm going to go with a 2.5" OME lift after talking with Christo over at Slee. The front will be heavies for sure, but I haven't decided on the rear. I think I will go heavies, since I'll be carrying a full drawer systme, most of my gear, fuel cans, etc.

For a front bumper, I'm also trying to decide between Slee's new product or an ARB. I like Slee's simple design and I'm guessing it's probably better built, but I like the full frontal coverage of the ARB.

And finally to complete my indecision, I'm trying to decide whether to go with 285 MTRs or 295 MTRs. I understand the difference is in section width, about 11" verses 12", both about 33" tall.

 

[Skillet]

Nice but...

Where will you rest your right arm while cruising down the Highway?

 

[DaveInDenver]

Can you get your tranny shifter into 'L'? Seems like it would hit that box. Must be why it's sloped at the front?

I know Skillet is being TIC, but that isn't completely a bad question. It took me a couple of days to get the location and height right on my Tuffy so that I could shift the tranny with my elbow at the corner of the arm rest. I still occasionally hit my funny bone on the dang Tuffy lock.

 

[Brian894x4]

Nope, everything clears just fine. The t-case easily shifts into low and the box is to the right of the tranny shifter, so it clears no problem.

I made the console out of stuff and parts that I had lying around the garage and trying to make the best of what I had. I started out making the laptop stand, which has to be rock solid and bolt up to existing holes. The rest of it grew up around the laptop stand.

As for the armrest, I never rested my arm on the old arm rest anyway (too low). Now if it had a captain arm rest like the back seat, that might be usable. I like having the somewhat open space between the seats and it's much easier to reach behind the seats where there's plenty of storage for items one might need while driving, i.e. maps, drinks, food, etc.

On a seperate note, it looks like I'll be breaking out the wallet big time tomorrow. Placing a big order with Slee. (I hope the wife doesn't read this, LOL!....)

Decided to go with Slee's Shortbus bumper. Debated between it and the ARB. I really like the full frontal coverage of the ARB, but Slee's bumper is just so nice and simple and sturdy in all the right areas. After reading a few install reviews, I was sold. I like stuff that is simple, functional and well made and it looks like Slee's bumper fits the bill. The only downside I see is my AC dryer will be exposed, and probably need relocating and my headlights will be exposed. I had figured with the ARB bumper, I might have put up some wire mesh to protect the headlights. Also aux. lighting options are a bit limited. On the plus side, probably a better bumper to frame mount, better winch set up, better designed tow points, better approach angle and finally, a little lower key if you don't want to attract unwanted attention.

I've also decided to go with Slee's 2.5 OME heavy (front/rear) kit. At first I wanted very little lift if any, but the more I think about it after reading on Mud and emailing Christo, 2.5" makes sense and should improve the overall ride and help with tire clearance since I'll be going to 33s. I picked heavies up front because of the bumper/winch. The rear was harder to decide. Slee's page indicates that 850s are 200-440lbs of extra weight. I think between the Slee drawers (ya, getting those too), fuel cans, generator, tools, gear and camping gear, I should be able to load up the rear to at least 300lbs all the time, and as much as 450lbs + for any long trips.

 

[DaveInDenver]

Slee's bumper is very nice. It's a response to people who think the ARB is no good for rock crawling, which it most definitely isn't very good at. Personally, I'd like to see a little better radiator protection, but that's just my $0.02.

 

[adventureduo]

I love the cool factory options we can attain.

I ordered mine a few weeks ago. But i don't have the correct pedal. The correct pedal should be in today so i can install mine.

Thanks for the kind words.

Just finished my first mod on this thing. A hand throttle from Slee Off Road.

This was FAR easier than I ever imagined to install. The cruiser is completely set up for it and it's literally just a matter of snapping this factory throttle cable in place at the gas pedal. Probably took all of 20 minutes and would go even faster, now that I've done it.

Throttle has a pull and twist knob. You twist to lock it and prevent it from pulling out accidently. Not that it's easy to pull out. It has a lot of resistence. Range of pull is very short, but that works out just fine. It looks to be designed so that you can't overrev the engine, but provides enough rpms under load to power whatever you need, most likely a winch.

Slee has awesome and very easy to understand directions in the package, with pictures. It's $51. Another more likely use for me would be to quickly charge up the auxiliery battery while the rig is sitting idling after it's been used all night long.

According to Slee there are some 1993 models that don't have a certain J bracket on the gas pedal that is needed for this for mod. I'm not sure what has to be done. It looked to me like the J bracket was welded to the gas pedal, but I could be wrong.

 

[DaveInDenver]

Slee bumper in action. A few of the guys from the club were out in Moab, thought you'd like to see these shots.