Brian894x4
Explorer
Nice pics! Thanks for sharing.
Brian894x4’s Land Cruiser FZJ80 build thread.
- Thread starter Brian894x4
- Start date
adventureduo
Dave Druck [KI6LBB]
Love that color rig Brian... hehehe
Brian,
The build up looks to be going good! I like the laptop mount. I wish I could have got you one like mine but not real sure where it came from(bought off Ebay). Give me a call sometime I would love to see the rig in person before we move back to NC.
What are you going to do about you Castor correction?? I have the OME 2.5 heavy and have not done anything about the castor and the thing drives like crap! I have the OME bushings that I think I will put in before making the drive to NC. I have heard that they will not fix the castor very well. If you are going to install the bushing let me know and we can do both trucks together.
Tim
The build up looks to be going good! I like the laptop mount. I wish I could have got you one like mine but not real sure where it came from(bought off Ebay). Give me a call sometime I would love to see the rig in person before we move back to NC.
What are you going to do about you Castor correction?? I have the OME 2.5 heavy and have not done anything about the castor and the thing drives like crap! I have the OME bushings that I think I will put in before making the drive to NC. I have heard that they will not fix the castor very well. If you are going to install the bushing let me know and we can do both trucks together.
Tim
Brian894x4
Explorer
Hey Tim,
I bought the whole suspension kit from Slee, which I understand includes the Castor correcting bushings. That's the one part I'm not looking forward to installing. I was thinking of taking to a shop with a press, but I was a little worried they wouldn't install them right since they have to be oriented a certain way. I'm not sure if it's possible to screw up or not. If we can figure out a way to install these things ourselves, that would be great! Slee is including some kind of special tool that is suppose to help somehow.
The reason I didn't go with Js is that I was hoping to keep the lift minimal. If I was going to run 35s, I'd do it, but I doubt I'll ever go more than 33s. At least for a while. If the lift turns out to be only 2" or even slightly less, I think I could live with that. I'm a little worried that heavies for the rear might be too much. Even though I carry a lot of weight, I was reading on Mud about guys with heavy steel tire bumpers and drawers and still having the stinkbug affect. I'll probably have less weight than them. I think I might end up sitting rear high for a while until I eventually install some kind steel bumper/tire carrier.
I bought the whole suspension kit from Slee, which I understand includes the Castor correcting bushings. That's the one part I'm not looking forward to installing. I was thinking of taking to a shop with a press, but I was a little worried they wouldn't install them right since they have to be oriented a certain way. I'm not sure if it's possible to screw up or not. If we can figure out a way to install these things ourselves, that would be great! Slee is including some kind of special tool that is suppose to help somehow.
The reason I didn't go with Js is that I was hoping to keep the lift minimal. If I was going to run 35s, I'd do it, but I doubt I'll ever go more than 33s. At least for a while. If the lift turns out to be only 2" or even slightly less, I think I could live with that. I'm a little worried that heavies for the rear might be too much. Even though I carry a lot of weight, I was reading on Mud about guys with heavy steel tire bumpers and drawers and still having the stinkbug affect. I'll probably have less weight than them. I think I might end up sitting rear high for a while until I eventually install some kind steel bumper/tire carrier.
Brian894x4
Explorer
Well I think I means rear higher than the front. At least that's what I meant. Term comes from ih8mud.com
blupaddler
Conspirator
Yes, stink bug is exactly that.
I have the J's in front, used to have the 850's. I also have the 864's in the rear. So, my stink isn't as bad as it used to be.
The only time I am level is when packed up for a trip.
BTW...Good choice on the bumper. The Slee bumper is very nice. I have been thinking about ways to "lighten" up my 80. And that ARB sticks REALLY far out there. If I did it again, I would get Slee.
:chowtime:
I have the J's in front, used to have the 850's. I also have the 864's in the rear. So, my stink isn't as bad as it used to be.
The only time I am level is when packed up for a trip.BTW...Good choice on the bumper. The Slee bumper is very nice. I have been thinking about ways to "lighten" up my 80. And that ARB sticks REALLY far out there. If I did it again, I would get Slee.
:chowtime:
Brian894x4
Explorer
I recently ordered a bunch of stuff from Slee. Here it is being brought home from the local freight house.
Got a Slee bumper, 2.5 OME suspension kit, African Outback drawers and some misc. stuff.
On the suspension, I'll be doing 2.5 heavies up front and inititally 2.5 mediums in the rear. I'm going to do the castor correction with the OME bushings, but I can't see any way of doing it without a press, so I'm going to have a local shop press them in for me using a template that I've ordered from Landtank over on mud.
Tonight I put in the African Outback drawers. This thing is beefy and really does easily support the weight it claims. It bolts down using existing bolts in the cargo area, so it's not going anywhere. It was definately spendy, but it's solid and bulletproof, just like the rig it's going into. I was surprised at how much I could stuff just into one side of the drawers. I have all my long tools (shovel, axle, picks, etc) recovery gear, my tool kit, a 2.5 gallon gas can and a bunch of other stuff stored just one one side. This isn't how I'll be set up, but I just wanted an idea of how much I could pack into this thing and I'm impressed. I need to do some thinking on how I want to configure the rear cargo area and what to store in the drawers.
By next week, I should have the lift fully installed, 285/75R-16 MTRs, the Slee bumper installed and a Warn 8000 winch. That will be the extent of major mods for a while. I would eventually like to do sliders, rear bumper, tire carrier and other stuff. Maybe later this spring or summer.
I think tomorrow night I'll tackle the bumper. That looks like an easy install too.
Got a Slee bumper, 2.5 OME suspension kit, African Outback drawers and some misc. stuff.
On the suspension, I'll be doing 2.5 heavies up front and inititally 2.5 mediums in the rear. I'm going to do the castor correction with the OME bushings, but I can't see any way of doing it without a press, so I'm going to have a local shop press them in for me using a template that I've ordered from Landtank over on mud.
Tonight I put in the African Outback drawers. This thing is beefy and really does easily support the weight it claims. It bolts down using existing bolts in the cargo area, so it's not going anywhere. It was definately spendy, but it's solid and bulletproof, just like the rig it's going into. I was surprised at how much I could stuff just into one side of the drawers. I have all my long tools (shovel, axle, picks, etc) recovery gear, my tool kit, a 2.5 gallon gas can and a bunch of other stuff stored just one one side. This isn't how I'll be set up, but I just wanted an idea of how much I could pack into this thing and I'm impressed. I need to do some thinking on how I want to configure the rear cargo area and what to store in the drawers.
By next week, I should have the lift fully installed, 285/75R-16 MTRs, the Slee bumper installed and a Warn 8000 winch. That will be the extent of major mods for a while. I would eventually like to do sliders, rear bumper, tire carrier and other stuff. Maybe later this spring or summer.
I think tomorrow night I'll tackle the bumper. That looks like an easy install too.
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adventureduo
Dave Druck [KI6LBB]
Lookin good dude.
Brian894x4
Explorer
Thanks. Here's a few more pics.
It was packed pretty darn good. Several layers of cardboard topped with with sealed plastic, then placed on top of a pallet which fit it almost perfectly.
The darn thing weighs a lot more than I expected. Just for kicks I put the unopened box on a bathroom scale and came with 125 lbs. That might not be entirely accurate, as I had to support it to stay on the scale. It might be slightly less. The majority of that weight in the in drawer itself. The frame was fairly light and the cover piece is just a piece of carpet covered wood.
The amount of weight the drawer supports is impressive and that's the main reason for spending this much money for a drawer like this. I had to sit inside the drawer to put some smaller pieces together (some assembly required) and I could darn near slide the drawer completely out with me in it and it didn't flinch. And I'm no lightweight either.
The instructions from African Outback leave a little to be desired. I found myself scratching my head a few times trying to figure out what they were talking about. Part of the problem is that the kit is designed for both the 80 and 100 and comes with two sets of instructions for either rig and a bunch of extra brackets and parts that aren't needed if you have an 80 that came with 3rd row seats.
The frame bolts down to the front 3rd row seat tie down bolts and the rear cargo tie down bolts. When finished, two small bolt holes in the cargo area floor are exposed just enough that a bolt won't fit back in so they need to be sealed. I just used RTV.
The frame is completely rock solid once bolted down. Nothing is going to move it, no matter what. However, that means the drawer is not too easily removable if you need the whole cargo area. Basically the upper floor needs to be unscrewed, and then remove the 4 bolts. IT's easier to remove the drawer first, which requires removing the drawer stops, then lift out the frame. Probably would take about 15-20 minutes to remove it.
When loaded down with a few hundred pounds of stuff, the drawer almost slides as easily in and out as it does when empty. I like having the single drawer, because with the center divider removed, it's more versatile.
I found than a 2.5 gallon Wedco nato gas can will fit just perfectly on the right rear cubby hole. I was hoping I could stuff one on the left side too, but it's just a hair too tight. With no roof rack, aux. Tank, or rear bumper, interior fuel storage is my only option and considering the potential stock range as little as 200 miles, extra fuel is a necessity. I found that the Wedco cans, which are extremely air tight fit just fine inside the drawers. I prefer the 2.5 gallon cans for a variety of reasons…easier to pour, easier to store…and the drawers can support a couple of these with plenty of room left over. One really nice thing about the drawers is that they are just long enough to store standard size axes, picks, shovels and other long tools.
I've got some work to do to figure out how I want to configure the rear. The cooler will probably go where it's pictured, with a slide lock. I'll have to take advantage of the left over cubby holes on either side somehow too. My final thought is that I'd really like a cargo barrier, since I could see myself piling gear up above the rear seats. Slee was out of the half barriers he used to sell. I could probably rig up something cheap. Anyone have any other suggestions?
It was packed pretty darn good. Several layers of cardboard topped with with sealed plastic, then placed on top of a pallet which fit it almost perfectly.
The darn thing weighs a lot more than I expected. Just for kicks I put the unopened box on a bathroom scale and came with 125 lbs. That might not be entirely accurate, as I had to support it to stay on the scale. It might be slightly less. The majority of that weight in the in drawer itself. The frame was fairly light and the cover piece is just a piece of carpet covered wood.
The amount of weight the drawer supports is impressive and that's the main reason for spending this much money for a drawer like this. I had to sit inside the drawer to put some smaller pieces together (some assembly required) and I could darn near slide the drawer completely out with me in it and it didn't flinch. And I'm no lightweight either.
The instructions from African Outback leave a little to be desired. I found myself scratching my head a few times trying to figure out what they were talking about. Part of the problem is that the kit is designed for both the 80 and 100 and comes with two sets of instructions for either rig and a bunch of extra brackets and parts that aren't needed if you have an 80 that came with 3rd row seats.
The frame bolts down to the front 3rd row seat tie down bolts and the rear cargo tie down bolts. When finished, two small bolt holes in the cargo area floor are exposed just enough that a bolt won't fit back in so they need to be sealed. I just used RTV.
The frame is completely rock solid once bolted down. Nothing is going to move it, no matter what. However, that means the drawer is not too easily removable if you need the whole cargo area. Basically the upper floor needs to be unscrewed, and then remove the 4 bolts. IT's easier to remove the drawer first, which requires removing the drawer stops, then lift out the frame. Probably would take about 15-20 minutes to remove it.
When loaded down with a few hundred pounds of stuff, the drawer almost slides as easily in and out as it does when empty. I like having the single drawer, because with the center divider removed, it's more versatile.
I found than a 2.5 gallon Wedco nato gas can will fit just perfectly on the right rear cubby hole. I was hoping I could stuff one on the left side too, but it's just a hair too tight. With no roof rack, aux. Tank, or rear bumper, interior fuel storage is my only option and considering the potential stock range as little as 200 miles, extra fuel is a necessity. I found that the Wedco cans, which are extremely air tight fit just fine inside the drawers. I prefer the 2.5 gallon cans for a variety of reasons…easier to pour, easier to store…and the drawers can support a couple of these with plenty of room left over. One really nice thing about the drawers is that they are just long enough to store standard size axes, picks, shovels and other long tools.
I've got some work to do to figure out how I want to configure the rear. The cooler will probably go where it's pictured, with a slide lock. I'll have to take advantage of the left over cubby holes on either side somehow too. My final thought is that I'd really like a cargo barrier, since I could see myself piling gear up above the rear seats. Slee was out of the half barriers he used to sell. I could probably rig up something cheap. Anyone have any other suggestions?
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adventureduo
Dave Druck [KI6LBB]
Looks good dude, keep the pics coming bro.:beer:
Brian894x4
Explorer
Slee Shortbus bumper
Installed the Slee Shortbus bumper tonight.
All I can say is that went FAR easier than I thought it would. As expected, the bumper is well made. My favorite design aspects are how it bolts to the frame and where the winching forces are distributed.
The bumper basically C-clamps the two front frame horns and bolts to them via 6 bolts per frame horn. Including 4 huge bolts on the top and bottom of the frame and the 2 smaller bolts that the factory bumper uses on the side of the frame. This thing is "one" with the frame...no doubt. The winch mount plate basically sits in between the two frame horns so I can't imagine the winch forces being distributed any better. It also uses all factory holes and back nuts, so all you need is bolts, no nuts.
The smaller size and relative lightness (I weighed it at about 97lbs on a bathroom scale) make it easier to handle when you to pick it up from the freight house and install is an easy one man operation, because the bumper can be lifted up and slide onto the frame and stay put, before any bolts are installed.
It should be noted, I haven't installed a winch yet, which makes installing the bumper much easier. I'm hoping I can just remove the front grill and drop the M8000 in next week, but if not, it won't be that big of a deal.
My only complaint...not really a complaint...just if I had to pick something I don't like...would be the exposed AC dryer. But I knew that would happen. The bumper was designed for hardcore people who would modifiy the dryer as needed and not sacrafice clearance. Funny enough I made a AC dryer skidplate, but it wouldn't fit with the bumper, so I had to take it off.
The other thing is that I may find that full frontal protection from something like an ARB might have come in handy on the those long drives out in the wilderness when creatures don't exactly get out of the way of headlights.
I purchased this bumper, not for it's rock crawling qualities, but because I knew it would be well made and well designed and I like the fairly low profile design.
So here she is.....
Plans are to have the 2.5 OME lift installed by this weekend, including castor correction. 33s will be installed by Monday and M8000 on Tuesday.
Trying to get this all done before our trip next Friday.
One dilemia I'm having is deciding whether to go with 285x75R-16s or 305x70R-16s. I'm seriously leaning towards the bigger tires. Anyone have any thoughts?
Installed the Slee Shortbus bumper tonight.
All I can say is that went FAR easier than I thought it would. As expected, the bumper is well made. My favorite design aspects are how it bolts to the frame and where the winching forces are distributed.
The bumper basically C-clamps the two front frame horns and bolts to them via 6 bolts per frame horn. Including 4 huge bolts on the top and bottom of the frame and the 2 smaller bolts that the factory bumper uses on the side of the frame. This thing is "one" with the frame...no doubt. The winch mount plate basically sits in between the two frame horns so I can't imagine the winch forces being distributed any better. It also uses all factory holes and back nuts, so all you need is bolts, no nuts.
The smaller size and relative lightness (I weighed it at about 97lbs on a bathroom scale) make it easier to handle when you to pick it up from the freight house and install is an easy one man operation, because the bumper can be lifted up and slide onto the frame and stay put, before any bolts are installed.
It should be noted, I haven't installed a winch yet, which makes installing the bumper much easier. I'm hoping I can just remove the front grill and drop the M8000 in next week, but if not, it won't be that big of a deal.
My only complaint...not really a complaint...just if I had to pick something I don't like...would be the exposed AC dryer. But I knew that would happen. The bumper was designed for hardcore people who would modifiy the dryer as needed and not sacrafice clearance. Funny enough I made a AC dryer skidplate, but it wouldn't fit with the bumper, so I had to take it off.
The other thing is that I may find that full frontal protection from something like an ARB might have come in handy on the those long drives out in the wilderness when creatures don't exactly get out of the way of headlights.
I purchased this bumper, not for it's rock crawling qualities, but because I knew it would be well made and well designed and I like the fairly low profile design.
So here she is.....
Plans are to have the 2.5 OME lift installed by this weekend, including castor correction. 33s will be installed by Monday and M8000 on Tuesday.
Trying to get this all done before our trip next Friday.
One dilemia I'm having is deciding whether to go with 285x75R-16s or 305x70R-16s. I'm seriously leaning towards the bigger tires. Anyone have any thoughts?