Brian894x4’s Land Cruiser FZJ80 build thread.

Brian894x4

Explorer
blupaddler...

Sorry, I deleted that post. I've had a change of heart again and I guess I'll install the 2.5" lift this weekend. I began to realize that in reality even if the lift ends up a little taller inititally, it will be weighed down and think I can live with how it should turn out. Well, see. Like you said, Don't worry...be happy.

Dave...

They probably called them the "light" springs back then. It's OME 861 and OME 862 springs. Basically, the front provide about 0.4 inches of lift with a hundred pounds and the rear provides as much a 0.9 inches, depending on load. Considering most LCs are sagging at least 1/2 inch to 3/4 of an inch, the total lift with these springs is probably closer to 1.5" all around. They're basically heavy duty stock springs.

But after talking to a few guys that run them, after putting on a rear bumper and other gear, they're already contemplating 2.5" lift to compensate and maintain the same lift, which is probably around 1 to 1.5" above stock.

Since I already have the parts, I'm going to go ahead and slap in the 2.5" springs tonight and castor correct on Monday.

Now my big decision is which tire size. 285/75R-16s or 305/75R-16s. Both being a little over 33" but the 305s are a lot wider. Skillet has 305 BFGs on his rig and they look good to me with his set up. I can get the 285s today, but I'd have to order the 305s. I think the 305s would look much better, but the 285s are cheaper and probably would return better fuel economy. It's also a lot more common size, if I ever have to replace a tire.
 
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DaveInDenver

Middle Income Semi-Redneck
Brian894x4 said:
They probably called them the "light" springs back then. It's OME 861 and OME 862 springs. Basically, the front provide about 0.4 inches of lift with a hundred pounds and the rear provides as much a 0.9 inches, depending on load. Considering most LCs are sagging at least 1/2 inch to 3/4 of an inch, the total lift with these springs is probably closer to 1.5" all around. They're basically heavy duty stock springs.

But after talking to a few guys that run them, after putting on a rear bumper and other gear, they're already contemplating 2.5" lift to compensate and maintain the same lift, which is probably around 1 to 1.5" above stock.

Now my big decision is which tire size. 285/75R-16s or 305/75R-16s. Both being a little over 33" but the 305s are a lot wider.
That makes sense. I'd stick with the heavy springs. From what I know about you, you pack like me...heavy. The Cruiser is heavier and will drive heavier than your Hilux did, so I think light springs would make it feel too cushy and out of control. I'd personally go with heavy springs even if it lifted more than I wanted. You are talking about an inch or two at the most, I wouldn't worry too much.

I'd go with the 285 tires, I don't like the look of wider tires. I like the profile of a 33x9.5 or 33x10.5, looks more old school and I'm old school kinda guy. The weight of the Cruiser will be a better match with the wider profile, though. I think 12.50 wide tires on any Hilux is just too wide to get a good footprint, particularly at street pressure on the road (like snow packed roads).
 

Brian894x4

Explorer
DaveInDenver said:
I'd go with the 285 tires, I don't like the look of wider tires. I like the profile of a 33x9.5 or 33x10.5, looks more old school and I'm old school kinda guy. The weight of the Cruiser will be a better match with the wider profile, though. I think 12.50 wide tires on any Hilux is just too wide to get a good footprint, particularly at street pressure on the road (like snow packed roads).

I know what you mean about narrow tires. I like narrower, but I think they look and work best when the rig is stock or nearly stock hieght.

I went and looked at a set of 285 MTRs and put them on hold for me. The 305s are a good bit wider, but I think the narrower 285s will work fine.
The 305s are more expensive and hard to source.

I'll be installing the lift tonight after work. If I can get that done, then tires go on tomorrow and castor correction on monday.
 
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Brian894x4

Explorer
Got the springs put in tonight. Still don't have the OME shocks installed as they haven't arrived yet.

Front is 850 heavy and rear is 860 medium.

Front measures 22.25" from center hub to bottom of fender flare. Rear measures 23.75 from center hub to bottom of flare. I'd be interested to see how this compares to anyone's lift and set up. If I recall correction, my stock set up was around 19.5 for the front and about 20 for the rear.

I expect the front to drop an additional .25 or more inches once the 80lb winch is installed.

The rear is fairly light at the moment. The drawers are installed and a few tools are in place, but it's by no means loaded up. I'm glad I have the 863 rear heavies here in the garage as well, because I can see needing to upgrade to them in the future with a bumper or possibly even as is, loaded up for a trip.

First impression is that standing next it, it sure feels tall. Looking at from the front, it doesn't look tall at all and from the inside it feels like it did stock, mostly.

..anyway, it's definately as tall as my truck is now or taller. I've only got a few inches of clearance left with the garage and the 33s will reduce that by at least an 1". So, I'm cutting it close.

First impression driving. There's definately subtle twitching feeling around town that is more prevelent on the highway. The steering feels light and unpredictable, especially during braking on the highway. All attribued to the lack of castor correction I assume.

The front springs really soak up the bumpers. It's quite amazing. The rear are still pretty stiff and feel like they want at least a hundred or more pounds, before they're "in the zone".

Except for the quirky handling due to no castor correction, the LC seems to handle turns at least as well as before.

The only concern I have is at 50-60 mph I thought I could hear a very faint and very slight growling or possible vibration. I'm really hoping I don't bad U-joints or other issues. And the wife probably won't be happy when she tries to climb in. I sort of hinted that this rig wouldn't have much lift if any....

...otherwise, I think this will work out just great! I hope the caster correction returns the handling to stock. By the way, does anyone know how much the rear brake level is suppose to be corrected for this type of lift?

I'll be installing 285/75R-16s MTRs in a few hours and castor correction on Monday if things go right.

Pictures later. Right now, I'm going to bed. Ya, it's 4am.
 
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Brian894x4

Explorer
Thanks.

I only have few miles on these tires and lift, but I like it so far. The power loss I was expected was minimal and in fact in the very little city driving I'm done so far, I can't tell the difference. We'll see how it does on the highway.
 

Brian894x4

Explorer
Worked on a few things tonight after work.

I decided to remove one of the 2nd row seats and utilize the space. This is basically our recreation vehicle and it's very unlikely that we'll need to carry more than 1 other passenger beside my wife and I. Besides, the rear seat that is left is sort of a seat and a half and two skinny people would probably squeeze in there.

The extra space just happens to be the perfect size for my Engel refrigerator (small 22 quart model) and two 5 gallon water jugs. I normally carry one 5 gallon jug for a daytrip, but at least two for any one trips. I love these cheap water jugs. Simply pull it out and lay on the tailgate or some other flat surfaced and instant tap water with a faucet.

The refrigerator and water containers are tied down using the old seat bolts. I also like finally being able to reach my cooler from inside the cab area, unlike my truck, where I had to stop and fish for stuff in the back of the bed area.

Without a roof rack and no rear tire carrier, storing jerry cans is no easy task. Even with 2.5 gallon, sealed Wedco cans. I finally just tossed them in one of the drawers. Which isn't going to be a good long term solution as that space could be much better utilized for tools and other gear.

So, some kind of auxiliery tank is definately on the next. Possibly the next major project if I can find something. So far, I'm not having any luck finding anything in stock anywhere.

Finally, I used Slee's light tabs on the bumper to mount a full size 60" highlight and retain the lights. I'm not sure how this will affect engine cooling in the summer, however.
 

Redline

Likes to Drive and Ride
Very nice! I congratulate you on your choice of 285s. To many people in the 4x4 world 285s are "narrow 33s", which technically they are, only the 255/85 being narrower. But to me they are plenty wide at about 11.5-inches, and for most uses I think much better than the wider 305s you were considering.

Narrower but not narrow, less weight, less rolling resistance, much more common size if needing to buy tires while on a trip, more tire tread choices; lots of positives.

Older Land Cruisers are very cool, and yours is looking very set-up and ready.


Brian894x4 said:
Got the 285/75R-16 MTRs installed.

Here's what she looks like today.
 

blupaddler

Conspirator
Brian,
The 80 is looking really good.

Good luck with the aux. tank. I can't remember if I posted up www.pvcruisers.com before, if not check with them for the tank. They put together a group buy every now and then. And just keep an eye out on mud as well.


Also, since you removed the seat...Here is a good strap-down device that works really well, which I used.
You can get them at any REI or climbing type store. They fit perfectly with the 14mm bolt from the seats.
I believe the company is metolius.
edit: www.metoliusclimbing.com
 

DaveInDenver

Middle Income Semi-Redneck
They are called bolt hangers, they're used for bolting climbing routes. They used to be 5/16" (roughly perfect for an 8mm bolt), but they are all now 3/8" (roughly for a 10mm bolt). Funny thing is that I use then as anchors in my truck, too. They work great to spread the load of the bolts on a fiberglass topper to keep the sill from cracking. I used the last of my 5/16" Fixe hangers when I installed the 'Nest. Been a few years since you could still get 5/16" hangers. They are designed to hold climbers in a fall, so the rating on them (at least my Fixe) is 40kN, about 9000 lbs. So, IOW, a few tie downs, a 'biner or whatever isn't going to be a problem. In fact when you start strapping things down you'll see the bed rails begin to bow before you hurt a hanger.
 
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Brian894x4

Explorer
I got the OME castor correction bushings installed. Took the template, the press tool and the arms to a local shop to do it for me. Once I got there, we had a little "oops" moment as we realized that even with the template it was possible screw up how the bushings went in depending on how the control arm was oriented. But we got it figured out.

The shop tried used the tool to press out the old bushings but to no avail. They finally burned them out and then pressed the new ones in. It matched the template, but I was stilled worried, because even a fraction off and the bolts weren't going to go back in. But the front of the control arms bolted up just fine.

The rear mount was a little interesting. They were about an inch low and 2-3 inches forward of the hole. I guess partly because the axle had shifted. With the axle on the ground under the full weight of the Land Cruiser, moving it was not easy. I finally got a large ratchet strap and pulled the axle back. This is where you want jackstands under the rig just in case the LC decides to turn you in a pancake.

Once done and torqued I test drove around town. It's hard to say what difference the castor correctors had on the drivability, because my seat time without them was limited. But suffice to say, the LC drove prefectly fine and in reality I couldn't even tell I had a lift on it, and I guess that's the goal. It's really strange to drive a rig about as tall as my old truck, but that handles about 500% better.

That same shop will do an alignment for me on Thursday and we'll see what it looks like.

Sorry no pics. I was kind of sick and I just wanted to get it done. I will say that I highly recommend getting Landtank's template on Mud. It really does take the guesswork out of the job and it's worth every penny of $10. Especially when dropping the stuff off at a shop and having them do the work.
 

Brian894x4

Explorer
Here's some more recent mods.

I couldn't find a cargo barrier, so I sort of had to make my own. Using some shelving that I found at a hardware store, I basically bolted down to create a barrier. It's actually much stronger and has worked out much better than I expected.

Also added a few jerry can mounts and some 2.5 gallon jerry cans. 5 gallons is not exactly a ton of extra fuel, but its better than nothing.

The Wedco cans are super air tight and while it's never an ideal situation to store fuel inside a vehicle, if one had too, these are the cans to use.

More later....
 

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