west_ok
Adventurer
I'm running 35"s on 3.5" lifts. If you were to go with the 2.5" I'd probably opt for the 34" a couple friends of mine went that route and it looks about perfect.
B.J.
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"Bruce" the 2014 Jeep JKUR Build Thread
- Thread starter KlausVanWinkle
- Start date
I'm running 35"s on 3.5" lifts. If you were to go with the 2.5" I'd probably opt for the 34" a couple friends of mine went that route and it looks about perfect.
B.J.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
KlausVanWinkle
Explorer
34s with 2.5 look how it should have come from the factory. Plus that's about a 3" improvement in approach, departure and break over.
west_ok
Adventurer
Beamer pilot
Explorer
I agree, works for me:
KlausVanWinkle
Explorer
And without aftermarket bumpers, the 2.5" lift is probably more like 3".
Yeah, there really is not that much difference in my jeep and the one driving around with the 2.5" lift. Acutally none we can see. he has the tf2.5 I have the leveling kit. I run bigger tires than him, so after all is said and done, I am a little higher under the belly than his jeep. Best thing about going with the leveling vs. the 2.5, the shocks remain untouched and all your suspension geometry stays intact. I can run 34's no issue as well. anything over 2.5" however opens up a whole new can of worms when setting up your suspension.
KlausVanWinkle
Explorer
Any lift will change the geometry. Leveling kits seem more for looks than function. It hurts the geometry (eliminating take) and doesn't add travel or help with load carrying. I've heard a lot of good things about them. But they're not for me.
daveh
Adventurer
I wasn't at all impressed with the factory JKUR suspension or shocks. For me the AEV 2.5 was a huge improvement in ride and handling. Now that I'm also running heavy bumpers I'm even more impressed with this lift. It handles the extra weight of bumpers, gear and a trailer perfectly.
Whats funny is that my rig still has some rake as I ran the rear spacers too. they say in the instructions, run 2 spacers front none in the rear for level, or run the rear spacer to keep some rake and make the entire jeep higher. It does eliminate some, but not all rake. Add in the Monroe monotubes and the suspension performs wonderfully. Just need to finish off the airbags for towing my trailer. I am with the AEV is probably the best handling suspension, however there are lots of people who say its very very stiff which I do not want. If I want stiff I will install a rough country suspension. I really want to take a ride in some rigs with different suspensions to see what is best. My jeep functions better with the lift/leveling kit, I have more fender clearance for bigger wheels/tires, I have more air under the jeep, and I don't have any of the draw backs of a taller lift with ill handling, adding trackbars, brackets etc. I have also noticed that a lot of people running arms on their suspensions have issues with always replacing bushings etc. I use my Jeep ALOT and I don't want to be in the shop every other week replacing suspension bits. All these tall lifts are for the Rock crawler crowd. not the long distance overlanding crowd.
KlausVanWinkle
Explorer
I finally got a little work done on the Jeep over Christmas break.
I ordered the Evo Protek Skid Plate system through NorthRidge4x4's Black Friday sale. It bolted up very easily and covers all the key vulnerable areas. It's amazing how much I've already scraped the bottom of the Jeep. The gas tank has several scratches and dents, and the transmission crash bar was severely gouged from high centering on a few ledges in Death Valley over Thanksgiving. Hopefully the Evo system will strengthen that Transfer case cross member.
I removed my hi-lift, shovel and ax mount from the interior dominion off road mount. Those 3 items weigh a ton and were probably partially responsible for my rear end sag. My action packer of recovery gear and fluids weighs a lot too. I'll have to lighten those up some.
Also, Omar discovered that our Front Runner Racks are installed with the wrong hardware. They're supposed to include button head screws on the bottom that won't rip your bags. Hopefully they'll send me the correct hardware.
I traded my 20" light bar for my friends nicer 30" one. I need to wire that up as well as some aux reverse lights.
I'm looking at the Rugged Ridge Hi-lift mount as a temporary solution until I get larger tires and the AEV tire carrier. The design seems sturdy. My understanding is that the tub and hinges are fairly strong. The sheet metal on the tailgate is the weak link. Does anyone know if Dominion's Hi-lift Accessory bars will work with this mount without smashing the tail light?
There's a decently sized space against the ceiling of the hard top. I'd like to repurpose the Dominion Off road mount to create a net attic where I can store sleeping bags, pads and lighter items.
I'm also in the process of downsizing and upgrading our camping gear to more high-tech, more compressible, backpacking gear. Partially to save space and weight, but also to open up hiking and fishing possibilities.
I sent the gun rack back. The design seemed half baked and allowed the guns to move too much. The idea worked well. Hopefully I can find something better or rig up my own version.
(Sorry for the terrible picture).
I ordered the Evo Protek Skid Plate system through NorthRidge4x4's Black Friday sale. It bolted up very easily and covers all the key vulnerable areas. It's amazing how much I've already scraped the bottom of the Jeep. The gas tank has several scratches and dents, and the transmission crash bar was severely gouged from high centering on a few ledges in Death Valley over Thanksgiving. Hopefully the Evo system will strengthen that Transfer case cross member.
I removed my hi-lift, shovel and ax mount from the interior dominion off road mount. Those 3 items weigh a ton and were probably partially responsible for my rear end sag. My action packer of recovery gear and fluids weighs a lot too. I'll have to lighten those up some.
Also, Omar discovered that our Front Runner Racks are installed with the wrong hardware. They're supposed to include button head screws on the bottom that won't rip your bags. Hopefully they'll send me the correct hardware.
I traded my 20" light bar for my friends nicer 30" one. I need to wire that up as well as some aux reverse lights.
I'm looking at the Rugged Ridge Hi-lift mount as a temporary solution until I get larger tires and the AEV tire carrier. The design seems sturdy. My understanding is that the tub and hinges are fairly strong. The sheet metal on the tailgate is the weak link. Does anyone know if Dominion's Hi-lift Accessory bars will work with this mount without smashing the tail light?
There's a decently sized space against the ceiling of the hard top. I'd like to repurpose the Dominion Off road mount to create a net attic where I can store sleeping bags, pads and lighter items.
I'm also in the process of downsizing and upgrading our camping gear to more high-tech, more compressible, backpacking gear. Partially to save space and weight, but also to open up hiking and fishing possibilities.
I sent the gun rack back. The design seemed half baked and allowed the guns to move too much. The idea worked well. Hopefully I can find something better or rig up my own version.
(Sorry for the terrible picture).
Last edited:
Maxcustody
Explorer
"I removed my hi-lift, shovel and ax mount from the interior dominion off road mount. Those 3 items weigh a ton and were probably partially responsible for my rear end sag. My action packer of recovery gear and fluids weighs a lot too. I'll have to lighten those up some."
Don't understand this one? You want to relocate on the rear bumper/tailgate? Is that not still on the rear of the vehicle, how does that help anything with the rear sag?? Not trying to be a smart ***, I have a JK as well and always looking at what others do and why...........
I have my Hi-lift mounted inside on my roll bar and very happy with the set up......
Don't understand this one? You want to relocate on the rear bumper/tailgate? Is that not still on the rear of the vehicle, how does that help anything with the rear sag?? Not trying to be a smart ***, I have a JK as well and always looking at what others do and why...........
I have my Hi-lift mounted inside on my roll bar and very happy with the set up......
shays4me
Willing Wanderer
http://overheadgunrack.com/
This gun rack looks promising. If only I hadn't mounted my CB up there.....:ar15:
This gun rack looks promising. If only I hadn't mounted my CB up there.....:ar15:
KlausVanWinkle
Explorer
Unrelated. The solution to the sag is new suspension. There's no getting around that until I install the lift. Most of my cool mod plans are in a holding pattern until I'm allowed to change the suspension.
Moving the jack to the outside is just to free up space for gear that can't live outside like sleeping bags. Also when inside, the jack rattling is annoying. And mounting extra weight up high seems less than ideal. But so does hanging it off the rear end and storing it outside where it can rust.
KlausVanWinkle
Explorer
And I finally cleaned the Jeep from the Death Valley Trip. I like to keep a few layers of wax on to help with pin-striping and rust.
Before:
After:
Before:
After: