Budget Skamper Fix/Build
- Thread starter SLO_F-250
- Start date
ToolBox Guy
Adventurer
I havebeen debating this myself for quite a while.
I keep asking myself, do I use a spare tire enough to justify the engineering and labor invested in building a bumper/tire carrier, not so much for me. Thats why the tire stays in the stock location.
Now you have an advantage, your camper doesn't stick out past the bumper, mine does by 13 inches making it an engineering nightmare.
If I were you, I would build an entire bumper carrier, or do a tire carrier that is hitch mount so it can be removed and stored.
SLO_F-250
Explorer
Yea, I was going to reinforce it the stock one going for the K.I.S.S. method. haha Im not against building a new bumper all together, but just add's more to the project. I would consider myself fairly versed in fabrication as I built my own prerunner in college and have all the welders, benders, notchers in my shop, but am just not trying to open a can of worms. :Wow1: I go back and forth though..... Thanks for the input.
ToolBox Guy said:
Yea, the 13in makes a difference. The entire new bumper would be sweet, but to make it look good I would want to shape it a bit rather than just a 6x8 tube capped. Thats me, which is why I figured trussing the stock one and adding the swing out. Since I come from a desert racing background and have the tools, I have also debated a tube style bumper but concluded its not for the superduty. I plan on stopping by my old welding shop next week too see what material they have in the scrap bin. I might score something.
The hitch mounted swing out also crossed my mind. There was a truck by my work with one. Its pretty slick. Ill post some pictures soon. Cool part was the way they fabbed it, it still had the hitch which would work for a bike rack, step, etc...
JonnySkamp said:
Jonny,
Welcome to the forum. Honestly, I am not sure what the heck that is in your photos. I had something similar, but it wasn't connected to wires. Just a smaller piece of solid copper wire. I figured it was to ground the copper propane line for sparks or something if that even makes sense.... Maybe not haha
You thermostat only controls the fan on the heater. So if the fan isn't turning on, there are a few "fuses/heatsinks" to check. Some burn out and are one time use. Chase the current around with a multi meter. Thats your best bet. Also picts help. Good Luck!! xdbx (Dan) helped me out a lot with my heater. Chime in Dan if you got input.
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Jonny,
The "wing nut" you have pictured is the overheat sensor. Its the ceramic "one time burn" fuse that I warned Paul about. The two sides of plug are 2 different wires, and should have continuity across them if the filament is not burned. It goes between the thermocouple and the top of the gas valve, and serves as an inline fuse. This thing should not affect pilot light operation.
If you can make sense of the wiring diagram, a signal should be passed through the gas valve, out to the thermocouple, which is heated by the pilot light. This current returns down that long copper tube you have pictured, and where it threads back into the gas valve, there's a notch where this plastic "wingnut" slip fits into. The wing nut can be removed and the thermocouple threaded back in and bottomed out so as to bypass the area where this would reside, which leads me to believe someone's been mucking about in there, and perhaps replaced the thermocouple in your skamp.
Do you have a clear wiring diagram to read on the sticker on the back of the furnace grill cover?
The "wing nut" you have pictured is the overheat sensor. Its the ceramic "one time burn" fuse that I warned Paul about. The two sides of plug are 2 different wires, and should have continuity across them if the filament is not burned. It goes between the thermocouple and the top of the gas valve, and serves as an inline fuse. This thing should not affect pilot light operation.
If you can make sense of the wiring diagram, a signal should be passed through the gas valve, out to the thermocouple, which is heated by the pilot light. This current returns down that long copper tube you have pictured, and where it threads back into the gas valve, there's a notch where this plastic "wingnut" slip fits into. The wing nut can be removed and the thermocouple threaded back in and bottomed out so as to bypass the area where this would reside, which leads me to believe someone's been mucking about in there, and perhaps replaced the thermocouple in your skamp.
Do you have a clear wiring diagram to read on the sticker on the back of the furnace grill cover?
ToolBox Guy
Adventurer
ToolBox Guy
Adventurer
Back country exploring truck......here is the build thread.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=934332
I just dig the rear bumper, so I posted it up.
JohnnySkamp
New member
Thank you XDBX.
Thank you for the quick response and even more so for describing the "wingnut" so well. The wiring diagram on the back of the cover is shot, no longer legible the 100s skamper is a 1989. I will let you know if I am successful fixing the problem, if it explodes than you probably wont hear from me again. (terrible joke).
Thanks again,
John
Thank you for the quick response and even more so for describing the "wingnut" so well. The wiring diagram on the back of the cover is shot, no longer legible the 100s skamper is a 1989. I will let you know if I am successful fixing the problem, if it explodes than you probably wont hear from me again. (terrible joke).
Thanks again,
John
SLO_F-250
Explorer
Oh man sweet truck!!! :drool: I just read through that build. I love that rear suspension setup. Lets you keep utilize the bed. I had a bedcage etc so it wasnt much a truck anymore. It also says in there the guy is throwing a pop-top camper. Maybe flip pack? If so that is going to be one AWESOME baja machine! Im going to have to keep an eye on that build Amazing plate work, welds, etc. That bumper is great! Thanks for posting! Do you happen to know where he got those pin latches?
My prerunner was a white 91 chevy. So fun!!! That tire rack is really cool, I havent seen one like it. Most desert trucks lose the tailgate all together. I stacked two 35's out the back on my old truck. Im still debating on what I want to do, but that one does get me thinking. Thanks for the pict!
Good Luck on the heater fix Jonny! Keep us posted!
Paul
Post a few pictures of your furnace, the gas valve, and thr front of the grill do I can confirm we have thr same, nd I'll send you thr wiring diagrams.
Also, with regards to SLO's post above, the thermostat controls the fan AND the gas valve. Web you hear it click on or off, it just opens or closes a switch, whit closes the main valve in te gas valve. This shuts off the main gas supply, and thus the furnace is choked back into pilot mode, since that circuit is physically controlled by the knob. Keep in mind, thr fan pushes a switch with a plate "open". This is the "sail switch". It must be pushed by the fans air in order to open the main gas valve. There are several of these redundant safety mechanisms in series that must operate correctly in order for thr gas valve to work.
Here is what your troubleshooting path should look like:
Verify gas. By using stove or whatever. Chek lines and regulator at the tank too.
Take off access plate and verify pushing the priming plunger indeed fully opens the pilot circuit.
Ensure the flame captures the thermocouple.
Get the thermocouple nice and hot. If you don't see a current induced across the thermocouple, take it out and replace it. They're CHEAP and easily sourceable.
After that, you should take the furnace out to examine it. Look up my thread for further details on that, but in short, you can mock up something on your bench and use yourouth or compressed air to troubleshoot the gas valve.
It's my personal suggestion that if it was stored outside, pull the entire furnace and disassemble it, and clean it. Some of my burner was blocked fom spiders nests, and SLO reported blockage too. Working with gas makes me nervous and I'd never forgive myself if some spider led to a fire or worse.
Here is what your troubleshooting path should look like:
Verify gas. By using stove or whatever. Chek lines and regulator at the tank too.
Take off access plate and verify pushing the priming plunger indeed fully opens the pilot circuit.
Ensure the flame captures the thermocouple.
Get the thermocouple nice and hot. If you don't see a current induced across the thermocouple, take it out and replace it. They're CHEAP and easily sourceable.
After that, you should take the furnace out to examine it. Look up my thread for further details on that, but in short, you can mock up something on your bench and use yourouth or compressed air to troubleshoot the gas valve.
It's my personal suggestion that if it was stored outside, pull the entire furnace and disassemble it, and clean it. Some of my burner was blocked fom spiders nests, and SLO reported blockage too. Working with gas makes me nervous and I'd never forgive myself if some spider led to a fire or worse.
JohnnySkamp
New member
Thank you crew for your furnace assistance. We are not there yet but have switched gears to the magnetek 6400. The converter is putting out like 17 or 18 volts DC when running off shore power! Is she shot? Can I install a voltage regulator off my blue wire wire and beat the faulty converter? Did I do something wrong? Thanks amigos. . .
SLO_F-250
Explorer
Hey Johnny! Sorry man, I really have no input for ya as I have never in 2 years plugged into shore power. :elkgrin: I try to stay off grid. Maybe someone will chime in and help you. Sorry.
On another note, I've been getting ready to start up a thread for the Ford as toolboxguy is trying to convince me to! haha Since the camper is pretty much done, except a battery isolator, its time to do some maintenance on the ford so she goes another 100k. I have a whole plan/program, but first, I did a little cosmetic work. What do you guys think? Personally I think a black flatbed to match would be sweet!!!
Paul
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