Bugs, Sweat and Tears- Exploring the UP's Copper Country

upcruiser

Perpetual Transient
Just getting around to writing up this trip from a few weeks ago. My girlfriend Alyssa and I planned a little getaway up into the UP's Keweenaw Peninsula to spend a few days recreating.

The Keweenaw Peninsula is the large protrusion of land that juts off to the north into Lake Superior from the mainland. It is rich with history, old mining towns, undeveloped shorelines, an old mountain range, and is comprised of a National Historic Park, a great State Park and alot of conservancy lands. It is simply put, one of my favorite places anywhere. A must see place for many reasons.

Day 1

We got on the road later in the day on Friday after Alyssa wrapped up some work she had to do and I got the vehicle packed. From Marquette we drove via highway up to Houghton/Hancock then stopped in the town of Calumet to grab dinner on our way to camp.

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Red Jacket Brewery is one of those places I tell everyone to check out. In the old historic downtown of Calumet. Calumet was once a booming mining town, so booming in fact that it was in cosideration for the state capital back when Michigan was being formed. The dowtown still retains an old brick street and many of the buildings sit empty though, happy to report that many of the old buildings are being refurbished and taken care of through funding from various sources. It is definately worth poking around town and check out the old churches, store fronts, and architecture. The brewerey itself is very old with the original painted mural on the ceiling above the bar. They have great food and if you are a beer lover.... well I need say no more.

After eating we continued north. Right around Calumet are a handful of tiny towns, all within a mile of each other and all service different old mines none of which are still in operation. Many of the homes have seen better days but most are occupied and still retain the very original look and feel. We darted up US 41, peeling off for the requiste drive along Cliff Drive, then dropped down along the west coast of the peninsula to drive through the towns of Eagle River, Eagle Harbor, and ultimately, the end of the road Copper Harbor. The drive along this stretch is probably my favorite in the whole state. The pavement is sinuous, winding, climbing and diving constantly through a narrow passage of trees or along the rugged coastline. It is THE quintensential sports car road..... we had to make do with a Land Rover Discovery, still fun don't get me wrong, but not quite the same thing ;-)

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Evening at the mouth of Eagle River.

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One of the must see stops along this stretch is definately Brockway Mountain Drive. It is a narrow paved road that drives along the ridge of Brockway Mountain affording spectacular views of Lake Superior and the town of Copper Harbor to the north. The view in the evening is hard to beat with the sun getting low over Lake Superior, the curve of the earth is visible as you see the broad expanse of freshwater stretching to the horizon. It never fails to awe me, this largest lake in the world. A couple of freighters, one 700 footer and one 1,000 footer can be seen pushing their way towards Duluth Minnesota making the mandatory detour around the large peninsula. They look like tiny children's toys, dwarfed by the freshwater sea.

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Jason (Northern Explorer) and his wife Blythe were meeting us out at the tip of the peninsula. The location is familiar to those that follow the UPO trips. Highrock point is the tip of the Keweenaw peninsula and requires one to push past Copper Harbor on dirt roads and a rough two track out to the end. Its worth the drive and despite having a couple of other vehicles out there camping, you have a sense of seclusion knowing you are WAY out there.

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An evening mist hangs over the water.

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Our camp.

We cooked dinner over a roaring campfire. We had premaid some food, potatoes and veggies in foil, corn cooked in the husks on the fire, and shishka bobs. Jason and Blythe joined us for s'mores later after the sun set. The full moon began its climb over the eastern horizon above Manitou Island. Soon a large frieghter came between the island and land, a rare sight as most go around the north side of the island. It is a surreal feeling seeing something so massive passing by so close, yet being out in such a remote place.
 

upcruiser

Perpetual Transient
Day 2

Its always great sleeping to the sounds of the waves on the rocks. Not sure what it is, but even that medatative sound can't keep me from waking up predawn to catch the sunrise. Highrock point faces directly east so there are some epic sunrises over the lake to be had, if you can get up early enough. Mid July in the UP means it is light out past 10 and sunrise before 6 so just trying to use up all the day light can wear you out pretty fast.

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The sun coming up over the water

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The agate strewn beaches of Highrock point

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The shoreline stretching west

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Our camp from down the beach.

The forecast was not looking all that awesome either. Temps were predicted to reach the triple digit mark inland with it a touch cooler near the coast. The heat combined with opressive humidity seemed to anger the insect kingdom in a way that inspired them to attack our defenses with full force. We had some activities lined up and would spend another night here at High Rock. The plan was to go paddle around Copper Harbor, hike, and do some touring via the Rover.

We bounced our way back to Copper Harbor and launched the canoe from a small park in town. Part of what makes the town of Copper Harbor so cool is the skinny, yet long natural harbor that it is nestled in. A rugged coastline of rock and islands creates a sheltered harbor of refuge. The town itself is small, one little grocery store, some motels, some gift stores, the ferry for Isle Royale National Park, a few small restaraunts are scattered about. The fact that the town boasts incredible mountain biking, sea kayaking and access to some great back country. In fact IMBA recently gave Copper Harbor "Epic" status for its network of single track mountain bike trails that spider web out and above town. Truely a world class riding spot. But.... we didn't bring the mountain bikes, we debated bringing the tandem bike to actually ride some of the dirt and tarmac roads that are so scenic there but decided we would have a full weekend with just the canoe.

So there we were slipping through the calm, glassy water of the harbor. A veil of light clouds help reduce the intensity of the growing heat. Ducks and geese were leisurely floating about as we worked towards the east end of the bay.

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cool sailboat off a private dock in Copper Harbor

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Exploring an inlet on an island on the outer portion of the harbor and Lake Superior.
 

upcruiser

Perpetual Transient
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Copper Harbor light

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Rocks that stand in the center of the chanel to Copper Harbor looming in the distance. The eerie chime of the channel marker buoy clanged with the occasional swell.

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The cloud cover started clearing and the day was to start getting very steamy.

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After getting back to the park where we put in, we drove up the Burma road to the trailhead for Estivant Pines. Estivant Pines is a cool spot. It is a tract of unlogged old growth forest featuring White Pines that have been hanging out here since before Columbus discovered the New World. The feeling of the old growth forest is much different then that of the thicker and younger second growth forests. The canopy higher, the spacing between the trees much greater. Makes you really feel a sense of awe for what the region was like back before it was logged so heavily. The giant whitepines are definately a thing of beauty and they were sought after for their valuable lumber potential. Much of Northern Lower Michigan was logged to rebuild Chicago after the great fire. There are alot of rugged nooks and crannies of the UP where the loggers weren't able to get into and in these spots old growth still lives. The Estivant Pines tract is a great hike comprised of a couple of loops of primitive trail. Its a must do when in Copper Harbor.

The sun really heated things up. The mosquitos became intense and despite heavy applications of bug dope we had to keep moving. Not going to lie, the combination of heat, humidity and bugs was enough to make me suffer a bit!

We got back in the Rover and put on the AC to cool down and dry out a bit as we drove to Bete Gries, a great beach on the East side of the Keweenaw between Lac LaBelle and Lake Superior.

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Thankfully the temps at the beach were a bit more comfortable due to the cooling effect of the lake. Good time for a couple of beers, and some swimming. Lake Superior was just getting nice to swim in for the summer, just in time for the hottest weather of the year. I heard on NPR about the death toll across the midwest due to this intense heat wave, I could think of no place I would rather be then here.....

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Funny how your whole temperment and mood can change in the blink of an eye. All it took was a plunge in Superior to refresh, recharge and give me a whole new outlook on the day. I pity those who haven't experienced it... honestly.

After a mellow afternoon at the beach we got back on the road and drove back over to Eagle Harbor via the Delaware Mine Road. Rally racing afficionados might recongnize the stage name from the long running Lake Superior Pro Rally (now called Performance Rally). Its a smooth, winding dirt road that the likes of the Subaru, Mitsubishi, Ford, and Mazda rally teams to name of a few, have wrung every last bit of speed out of. A spectator favorite on the national rally scene's "oldest, toughest, meanest" rally. We buzzed back down the coast towards Eagle River for one reason alone... to stop at the Jampot. Put this on the must do list as well. The Jampot is a little store that sells homeade baked goods and jams (a huge selection) made lovingly by a group of monks who live in the monastery next door. The monastary itself is amazing, sitting by itself on a beautiful stretch of Lake Superior Shoreline, you can just imagine the monks out in the forest gathering the wild rasberries, blueberries, thimbleberries, and tending their large garden to create their offerings.

After buying some goods we headed back up to Copper Harbor and back to our camp where we left our tent standing. It was early evening now and a nice fog hovering over the lake kept the temps nice and comfortable at camp.

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Spent some time in the nice light shooting some shots of my yogi travel companion for use on her website...

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taco2go

Explorer
Out having a great time as usual Kristian. Great pics of the peninsula- it's a special place and photographs just barely convey the beauty in the varied landscape. I'll be in CH this sat, hoping to catch the barf barge out to Isle Royale for a couple of days of solitary backpacking.

I am seriously &*%#ssed at not having the week off for UPO this year. Nature of the job. :mad: I'll do some late fall weekend trips hopefully. The UPO convoy is unbeatable tho.....
 

Hill Bill E.

Oath Keeper
I think I saw you!! Hard to tell, everyone on the UP looks the same from Duluth here.....:elkgrin:

Awsome trip report! I'm up and down the North Shore of Lake Superior all the time, and while it's unique, the UP has it's own kind of magic along the big lake. Can't wait to visit again.:coffeedrink:
 

Haggis

Appalachian Ridgerunner
Nice!!! :elkgrin:

Dang this year's wet spring that has kept us from getting to explore that region of the UP. We should have been driving NW to the UP this coming Saturday, but I'll be cob blasting a home instead. At least the motivation for the trip stays strong 'cause of threads like this. Another great trip report Kristian!
 

upcruiser

Perpetual Transient
Out having a great time as usual Kristian. Great pics of the peninsula- it's a special place and photographs just barely convey the beauty in the varied landscape. I'll be in CH this sat, hoping to catch the barf barge out to Isle Royale for a couple of days of solitary backpacking.

I am seriously &*%#ssed at not having the week off for UPO this year. Nature of the job. :mad: I'll do some late fall weekend trips hopefully. The UPO convoy is unbeatable tho.....

Thanks Joash, awesome about heading out to Isle Royale. We are heading out there a couple of days after UPO for a backpacking and paddling photo shoot. Then we are spending 4 days canoe camping around the northern end of the park. Can't wait! I love that place. If you are coming back through Marquette after Isle Royale, feel free to stop by and have dinner, or grab lunch, etc. Would love to catch up with you my friend!
 

upcruiser

Perpetual Transient
I think I saw you!! Hard to tell, everyone on the UP looks the same from Duluth here.....:elkgrin:

Awsome trip report! I'm up and down the North Shore of Lake Superior all the time, and while it's unique, the UP has it's own kind of magic along the big lake. Can't wait to visit again.:coffeedrink:

Wait, were you up there that weekend? Or did you spy us from atop Brockway?? haha Yep, that area has a feel that I haven't felt eslwhere on this continent. Super unique, lush, water, water, water! Love it.
 

upcruiser

Perpetual Transient
Nice trip, great photos. I love the UP, gotta get back up there one of these days.

Do it, if you need tips or places to check out, check out the UPO forum. Alot of info on there regardig the out of the way unknown spots.
 

upcruiser

Perpetual Transient
Nice!!! :elkgrin:

Dang this year's wet spring that has kept us from getting to explore that region of the UP. We should have been driving NW to the UP this coming Saturday, but I'll be cob blasting a home instead. At least the motivation for the trip stays strong 'cause of threads like this. Another great trip report Kristian!

Thanks bud! I am only half way through this trip report, gotta finish it up still. More shots and story to come.
 

upcruiser

Perpetual Transient
Awesome pictures. I'd love to get out that way someday. I have added it to my places to visit list.

Alyssa just moved here from Utah and for her, the contrast of this area to Utah is about as radical as it gets. She has really been enjoying it, the forest, the beaches, and the north country landscape in general. Probably the same reason why I really love to travel through southern Utah because it is such a contrast from where I live.
 

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