Build Ideas for my 1982 FJ60...Multiple questions

[scottrist]

So I just picked up a 1982 FJ60. She is in great shape for 170k miles. Runs great and passed smog no problem. The mods below are going to be in the future as I am taking care of most of my PM right now. I am going to just search for the best deals in the meantime.



I am trying to keep ALL my mods on $2500 budget. Here goes:



1. Used approx 3" lift from cruiserparts.net (they stated good condition with spring packs, shackles, shocks, and hardware) He said at most $500.00.



2. Front and rear fj62 axles hub to hub from cruiserparts.net or local junkyard. The front with knuckle rebuild kit for $400 and the Rear for $250. Would this be a good investment? I figured I could get lower gearing with them and disassemble my 60 axles for trail spares. Cruiser parts said all parts are interchangable.



3. Rear aussie locker---$300ish. Any other ideas for rear locker?



4. Then Bumpers and sliders. I have a friend who is a body worker, decent fabricator, and excellent welder that said he could help me. I have heard of people getting good cheap steel at the scrap yard. Any experience with that? If not I will try to find some used ones.



5. Tires. I have some brand new 33/12.5/17r pro comp mud terrains that were given to me by my uncle. I wanted to hopefully reuse my stock wheels instead of spending too much on new wheels. So I was figuring I could sell/trade these for some narrower 33's or 32's. How wide can I go and still use stock rims. Or would you suggest just biting the bullet and getting new rims? I really didnt want to run that big/rugged of a tire. Also how big do I need to be to drive highway speeds with the lower FJ62 gears? I think they are 4.11's, right?



I would love your opinions on where my money should go. If you have any ideas on "must haves" that would be great. This 60 will be used for mostly long distance travel with a lot of 3+ trails thrown in.



Thanks a lot!

 

[preacherman]

Sounds like a good plan. I had a 60 for 5 years and have even considered getting another one. They are great trucks.

My .02 is that most of your mods sound reasonable. When I did my springs and lift I was hoping to keep everything low cost like you. What I found out is that on a 15-20 year old car when you start working on the suspension everything will need changed. You can most likely count on needing new everything. Shocks, u-bolts, bushings, anything that comes off when replacing the springs will need replaced. $500 might be a little low. My cost was closer to $800 when all said and done.

Also if you would be changing the axles just to get lowering gearing you could save money by just changing the third member from a 62. They are interchange, and the 62 has 4.10 gearing. If you are changing the gears because you think you will need lower gears to run 33's hold on. I thought I would need lower gears but when I put on 33's I noticed my cruiser was much nicer around town and on the hwy. Some guys call a lift a "red neck overdrive". I actually got better MPG on the hwy with the 33's. Changing the axles might require some hidden cost like new brakes, wheel bearings, etc. "the devil you know is better than the devil you don't know". Putting money into your own axle might have less hidden cost.

Overall enjoy your 60, they are great trucks. Hope that helps.

 

[Pskhaat]

What is currently wrong with the 60's axle housings? The 62 IIRC has some additional gussets but the 60 axle's pretty strong. I understand you may want 4.10s, but as stated you can do that with 3rd members.

You did say those tires were 17"? Just a personal opinion, but if you wanted ø33s I'd stick with the stock OEM wheels with some 33x9.50r15 (if you can find some) or 33x10.50r15s should fit fine (I ran 10.50 width for several years on stock rims). Otherwise step it a notch with maybe some spacers, toyota steelies and 235/85r16s?

The stock 60 tires in NA IIRC were 225/75r15 (someone verify?) at a staggering ø28.5". The ubiquitous 31s should be easy finds too.

 

[AndrewP]

No reason to change the axle housings. The rears are identical. The front Fj62 housing has a gusset on the long leg to make it a bit stiffer. That's nice, but not "needed". Just swap 3rd members. That's pretty easy. 4.11s with 33 inch tires is nearly ideal.

Give up on the idea of tires, diffs, lift, bumpers and sliders for $2500. The tires alone will be close to $1000. Decent bumpers alone will be $2500 unless you can fab them yourself.

My advice: Go on a few trips as is. You will be surprised what it can do in stock form. Once you know the type of trips you like,, then start spending money on mods.

A budget 60 could start with the lift, and some 31 inch tires. That will work fine and take you some great places without other mods. Spend most of your $$ on baselining your truck, rebuilding the front end, new tie rod ends, etc.

Here is my 60 in progress: http://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/251613-its-huge-new-soa.html

 

[scottrist]

Thanks for the info guys. I have had a few people say that running a narrow 33" with be fine with stock gearing. The axles were my main question, and I think I might stick with mine. Basically I just wanted to have spare axles. I guess I can just pick spare parts up along the way. Any other thoughts on Stock gearing and 33's. I will do a search.

Preacherman, as far as the suspension cruiserparts.com said it would come with just about everything and I figured I would need new bushings, but everything else seams to be there.

What lift did you do for $800??

AndrewP, thanks for the advise as well. I was thinking as long as I am buying a the third members I might as well be the whole axle cause the price difference isn't that much. Maybe I havent searched enough, but how much have u seen 4.11 thirds for? I guess I could use an FJ40 or FJ62 right.

As far as tires, I am not going to buy new. I will find used ones and hopefully use the money from selling my Mud Terrains to fund them.

Also I dont think bumpers are going to set me back 2500. I am not planning on purchasing the nicest ones made. I plan on building some very simple ones. My friend is a great welder and said he could do it with me.
Thats why I asked about buying steel cheaply. I am not into buying brand new stuff that can be bought used in practically the same condition as new.

Thanks guys.

Scott

 

[AndrewP]

Maybe I havent searched enough, but how much have u seen 4.11 thirds for? I guess I could use an FJ40 or FJ62 right.

As far as tires, I am not going to buy new. I will find used ones and hopefully use the money from selling my Mud Terrains to fund them.


Scott

Most Fj40 diffs (through 77 model year) have coarse spline diffs, so I would not use those in an FJ60. The only good year for FJ40 diffs is 1978. In fact, that's what's running in my Fj60 right now.

Prices vary. I found mine for $50 each, but up to $150 each or even more for 2 fronts would be fair. Just a new gear set alone is $200, bearing kit $150, labor to set up $150, so you'be be looking at $500 per diff just to change gears.

I ran 33s on stock FJ60 gears for a while and I wasn't very happy with the combo. It's very sluggish taking off from a stop. Add in an uphill redlight and it really sucks. I'd stick with either smaller tires or lower gears.

I did a 5 speed conversion on mine which is really nice, but it would eat up most of your budget.

Before you spend any money on mods and toys, get the entire truck baselined and up to speed so you can enjoy the legendary Toyota reliability.

 

[preacherman]

Preacherman, as far as the suspension cruiserparts.com said it would come with just about everything and I figured I would need new bushings, but everything else seams to be there.

What lift did you do for $800??


Scott

It was a BDS lift. It was 7 or 8 years ago however so I am sure prices vary by now. If you found everything for $500 then that is a good deal. As stated by others 31's fit no problem. I ran 31's for years and went a lot of places.

 

[Mike S]

If I had a 60 (sold mine) and could do only one mod. it would be an H55F.

If I could do two mods, second would be OME suspension.

Nothing wrong with yhe axles, gear ratios, etc. in the 60. All 60s (stock ones) are due for suspension, and ALL of them lack driveability with the standard 4 speed.

 

[scottrist]

Thanks guys. Basically In keeping with a budget for now I might just look for some 31-32"s. What metric sizes match these? Then I can be comfortable with stock gears. I believe I will still go with some sort of a suspension due to the sagging rear end. Maybe even just more arched stock springs, or go straight for the lift? I'm thinking the lift springs would be a better investment.

Ok thanks guys!

 

[dirtgypsy]

Thanks guys. Basically In keeping with a budget for now I might just look for some 31-32"s. What metric sizes match these? Then I can be comfortable with stock gears. I believe I will still go with some sort of a suspension due to the sagging rear end. Maybe even just more arched stock springs, or go straight for the lift? I'm thinking the lift springs would be a better investment.

Ok thanks guys!

hi Scottrist,

sounds like you have the bug and also have a great rig to work on. I have to ask why you need lift? Is it just to clear 33's? If that is all I would invest in 2 1/2" add-a-leafs and rebuild your spring packs. Also add a mild 1" over stock shackle and you will be able to clear narrow 33's without issue. along with this invest in new u-bolts and hardware.

like the others have stated 4.11 thirds from late model 40's and 62's will drop in without issues. but you will find with stock 3.73's and 32/33 tires your engine and tranny will be much much happier at hwy speeds than with 4.11's with very little if at all noticable drop in crawl ratio.

Why do you need trail spares or spare parts? The stock axles on these rigs are beef. I have wheeled mine from southern oregon to Moab to the PNW and have yet to break anything. The stock axles can be pushed to 35" tires and severe 4x4 abuse before you will break anything.

If you are dead set on spares invest in a used birf, bearings, seals and gaskets and call it good as these are more likely to fail than axles and housings.

Drive the truck in it's stock config to get a feel for it and a feel for where you want to go. I would also look in your area for a landcruiser club or other welcoming 4x4 club to network and have some first hand input on what works and doesn't.


just my 2 cents. I am in no way an expert but I wish I would have really taken my time in the first year of ownership to really research, ask questions and fish for good deals I would have saved a lot of head ache, $$ and time.

Clint

 

[scottrist]

CLint,

Thank you so much. Great post. I have def. reconsidered the axle idea.

What add-a-leafs and shackles have would you recomened? Can I add stock leafs to my pack for more lift?

Also, I was planning on finding some 33"x 9.5 or 10.5 and use my stock wheels. I have heard good things about that size tire and stock gearing.

I also really want to join a 4x4 club the TLCA has a local chapter. How would i find others? I really want to hit trails with other folks.

 

[lostworldexpedition]

If I had a 60 (sold mine) and could do only one mod. it would be an H55F.
If I could do two mods, second would be OME suspension.
...All 60s (stock ones) are due for suspension, and ALL of them lack driveability with the standard 4 speed.

:iagree:
I have 2 60's (83 and 87) and I definitely agree. Only problem is I think the H55F is not a drop in mod for pre-85 60's.

Before any mods make sure maintenance items are checked. Check the front axle, the knuckles, etc. Check out Cruiser Outfitters, Kurt is an ExPo member and very knowledgeable and helpful.

 

[dirtgypsy]

Scott,

Online for add-a-leafs would be man-a-free. they are a true 2.75 wide leaf. get the longs not the shorts. the shorts will make the ride too stiff where as the long ones tend to spread the load. adding leafs from a stock pack is not a bad idea if you plan on adding weight to the truck (bumpers, gear, winch) but it not gain you lift.

if you really want lift then by all means please save your $$ until you can afford OME spring packs. again my 2 cents but there has been very little concern with OME packs getting wasted after a few years of service and a load of stuff out there against every other brand.

as for shackles anything out there is good. cheap and strong are the plates from marlin crawler in the 4.5" variety and go to the hardware store and pick up new 18mm harware in the highest strength rating you can find.

as far as clubs ih8mud is a good start or just search online in your state/ area for clubs and start learking.

clint

 

[bahndo]

As far as rebuilding a 60 and making some mods on a budget I think the advice here is good. A few things to note that I have found on the three 60 that I have messed with over the last couple of years:

1) Long add-a-leafs are great and provide a good stance for running a 33"x9.5" tire, provided you don't throw super heavy bumpers on.

2) Not sure where your 60 grew up but if it spent any time on salted roads you will need to replace EVERYTHING suspension related. Two of my 60's were east coast rigs and had broken springs in the spring packs, didn't notice it until I pulled them apart and they crumbled in my hands. Not too mention a lot of the hardware either broke or had to be cut off!

3) If you want to run 33's I would recommend swapping out the 60 thirds for the 62 thirds for the gearing, then saving every penny and throwing in a h55 5spd.

I guess best case scenario is you have a totally clean 60 and everything has been greased and lubed throughout it's life, then you can do the AAL's, u-bolts, and bushings, on the suspension end for pretty cheap, sell your muds and pick up some 33"x9.5" (or 10.5"), and not be too far from the 5sp cost. In fact I think there is a used 5spd on mud right now for $1300.

I fully recommend a home brew bumper, if there is a decent scrap yard near you you can get all the steel you need for pennies on the dollar. Another good source for smaller quantity steel is a big steel yard that has a "drop" pile that usually runs for 75%-85% the per foot cost of a full stick. This is of course if you want to build your 60 for mild/med. wheeling and still retain nice road manners, at least that what I would do..............

Oh yeah, wait on the locker until you feel like you are going places where you will actually need it.
-Bahndo