Build: Ram 3500 and Aluminum/Composite Expedition Camper

ITTOG

Well-known member
How did you bond the two long panels with the long horizontal seam. Did one have extra aluminum that you bonded to the other panels insulation?
 

shirk

Active member
I am going to guess that they shingled the two panels. Left the skin long on the top panel then short on the lower panel so that the top panel would lap down over the lower panel and glued in place when installed.
 

TrailTestedMFG

Active member
We left the aluminum long on the upper panel but we did not leave it short on the lower panel. The aluminum layers overlap at that joint to ensure it is water tight. They are VHB taped and glued with Sika 252.
 

RandomWreckless

New member
I really like your exo-skeleton design and your videos are great without boring fluff.
The exo-skeleton will be great for those eventual trees and rocks.
I appreciate what you said about building in a manner that aligns with what you confidently had as far as equipment, materials, knowledge and skill. I had an idea to build an exoskeleton of 1" thin wall steel tubing for those reasons and my knowledge of what abuse it would take.
I had never thought of use a router on aluminum! Now I have a new tool in the arsenal.
 

ITTOG

Well-known member
We left the aluminum long on the upper panel but we did not leave it short on the lower panel. The aluminum layers overlap at that joint to ensure it is water tight. They are VHB taped and glued with Sika 252.

Sorry but I forgot to ask what product number of VHB you are using? Is it 4991? Also, where are you buying it from? I plan to put an order in a couple weeks from now and just wanted to compare.

I really like your exo-skeleton design and your videos are great without boring fluff.
The exo-skeleton will be great for those eventual trees and rocks.
I appreciate what you said about building in a manner that aligns with what you confidently had as far as equipment, materials, knowledge and skill. I had an idea to build an exoskeleton of 1" thin wall steel tubing for those reasons and my knowledge of what abuse it would take.
I had never thought of use a router on aluminum! Now I have a new tool in the arsenal.

Everyone seems to creat exoskeletons but the way TrailTestMFG is doing it is brilliant. I may have to consider that whenever I build another. n
 

TrailTestedMFG

Active member
Thank you everyone for the compliments, we really appreciate them! We are pleased with how things are going together. It's one thing to stare at it on the computer but doing it in real life is another animal. Glad it's (mostly) working out as planned.

Sorry but I forgot to ask what product number of VHB you are using? Is it 4991? Also, where are you buying it from? I plan to put an order in a couple weeks from now and just wanted to compare.

Everyone seems to creat exoskeletons but the way TrailTestMFG is doing it is brilliant. I may have to consider that whenever I build another. n

We're using 4941. 4991 was heavily considered. The .090 just seemed a little too thick. I'm ordering from McMaster. I love McMaster. Next day service and I don't have to go running around sourcing stuff leaving more time for work.
 

ITTOG

Well-known member
Thank you everyone for the compliments, we really appreciate them! We are pleased with how things are going together. It's one thing to stare at it on the computer but doing it in real life is another animal. Glad it's (mostly) working out as planned.



We're using 4941. 4991 was heavily considered. The .090 just seemed a little too thick. I'm ordering from McMaster. I love McMaster. Next day service and I don't have to go running around sourcing stuff leaving more time for work.

Thanks for the response. Not sure why but I didn't even think of McMaster. Their site has some better info than 3M. For instance, I found that 4932 and 4952 was best for bonding to powder coat. Thanks for your response. Looks like I have more research to do.
 

TrailTestedMFG

Active member
The progress has been a little monotonous lately as we've been getting all the panels cut to size, wrapped, and installed. But, we did make progress on something else that's worth sharing.

The panel on the bottom of the bed area was made a little differently.

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We laminated two 1x.125 square tubes into the panel to add some additional support. The normal glue up process followed but we also riveted the plywood skin and aluminum skin to the square tubing. This panel is extremely stiff in the axis perpendicular to those tubes now. This panel also has a flange to allow us to shingle a smaller panel in to get the extra width we need in this area.

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Next project!

First step, remove the back window.

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This was surprisingly easy. We've never removed auto glass before. Used a oscillating multi tool, bent a blade at a 90 cut to be about 1/4" wide and sharpened the edges. Fished it in behind the glass and let 'er eat. CAREFULLY! There were two plastic clips in the bottom corners that Courtney pried loose with a screw driver. We have a system, there are "Riley tight" jobs, and "Courtney tight" jobs. Prying clips holding glass are more of a "Courtney tight" job. No interior disassembly was required at all. WIN!

Next up, build a new back window panel with a pass through.

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Courtney upholstered the part with some Duramax tweed fabric that we had leftover from another project. This makes it feel a lot "softer" finished inside the cab.

Finally, we installed the panel in the truck.

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Next was to add a matching flange to the front panel of the camper.

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There is 2.5" between the two flanges:

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We used this boot intended for big rig sleepers to seal it up.

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The pass through took us about 4 or 5 hours start to finish. It will be well worth it. Now our dogs can sleep on their platform in the back seat area of the truck rather than in the dinette area (unless it's really cold). Also, it adds a safety factor that is important to us. If there is a situation outside the truck that we don't want to interact with (animal, person, etc) we can crawl into the cab and drive away.

All but the back two panels are now in. We are leaving the back open for now to make adding some interior stuff easier.

126959466_1849081921913221_4538488123393401593_o.jpg


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Next up is to bury some wiring inside the seams between the panels and start adding our internal framing. It's important to note that this SIP construction requires both the inside and outside skins to be continuous to get full strength of the structure.
 
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RAM5500 CAMPERTHING

OG Portal Member #183
Looking great!

Video of you guys climbing through the pass through please ?

Yall must be tiny, I don’t even think I could get my legs through that ?
 

TrailTestedMFG

Active member
Looking great!

Video of you guys climbing through the pass through please ?

Yall must be tiny, I don’t even think I could get my legs through that ?

We both easily fit through it! It is intended to be used daily by the dogs and us in an emergency situation. By not cutting into the back wall of the truck we are able to fit our water tank in the bench below the window.
 

Ultimark

Active member
That was very interesting, however you mentioned the spring mounts, showed approximately where they were going, but didn't show the finished mounts. Or, is it that you haven't done them yet?

Excellent build, been following it almost since you started it.
 

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