Building my first 4x4 van HELP! FIRST POST TOO! Been Lurking

[FEDUPWBS]

VANQUISHER is the name!

Go figure my first post and I bit off a small project.
Several months ago LUKED brought his half completed UJOR van by my shop and I was hooked! The thing really stuck in the back of my mind for 6 months until two weeks ago a van that my buddy's friend purchased 2 years ago came up for sale, I/we had first dibs ("if you ever want to sell it") on it from a year ago for business/transportation needs (not this :Wow1: ).
Funny thing is I have never even seen it in person only in cell phone pics. So without hesitation I promptly ran down yesterday and obtained financing (wouldn't want to blow my cash on actually owning it :ylsmoke: ) before sinking untold $k into it right?.
BTW I still haven't seen the thing in person but drove 400 miles today to score a NV271 with 57k on it and a very nice and complete DANA 60 for the front from two different people in the same city (go figure)
Project will be 8" lift with 37-38"x 12.50 tires and 4.56 gears. Van will be used as a hotshot long distance all weather small freight carrier i.e. the parts MUST GET DELIVERED and also a SHTF bug out vehicle and part time tow rig.

I will try and keep a detailed list of parts and expenses as I have not seen one posted.

1. 2003 E-350 7.3 EB no windows 100k mi $8500 SUPER CLEAN
2. Transfer case 57k mi $350 w/ 6mo warranty
3. DANA 60 2003 complete $450 mi under 100k
4. Sterling 10.5" new 4.56 gears fresh rebuild and limited slip $400
5. 4r100 core out of e350 chassis cab $100 SCORE!! Great shape and has the correct output shaft and tail mount for the transfer case when parking brake drum is removed.

Driveline/ front
UJOR kit
Trans mods (what kind matter) Billet converter, sprags etc ?
Gears/ front ARB rear

Consensus seems to be performance wise upgrades go in this order?

1. Gauges and pillar mount (which ones)
2. Exhaust (what mods does the F series need to fit?) I want stainless!
3. Programmer (I like the edge but have never used one)
4. Air box, turbo upgrades, etc., suggestions?

As stated before I have ZERO diesel ownership experience but have driven big ones over a million miles so your input is greatly welcomed

 

[dsw4x4]

Sounds like a score of a sweet base to build off of. Good luck with your build. For exhaust go to diamond eye they make a really nice affordable system for your van.
Banks makes an upgrade hot side compressor wheel upgrade for your turbo and I run an edge chip in my van (7.3) and love it this also takes care of the need for a pillar mount gauge pod and needing to buy all of the gauges separately. Personally my next gear change for 37 inch tires is going to be at least 4.88s. If your doing a lot of highway driving I would stay away from detroits and go with arbs. Detroits will make snowy highways a white knuckle experience on windy roads, and wear tires a lot faster. Good luck and post some pics when you get it.
Derek

 

[FEDUPWBS]

It will see lots of wet/snow windy roads so ARB all around. Hell its only $200 more than the locker considering I already have a compressor and tank on the shelf. Gearing is debatable as this rig will get many highway miles and very little off road use but I am open to discussion.

Jeff

 

[nely]

I second the diamond exhaust. There the only company that ive found making turbo back exhaust for the vans. Unfortunatly for me the kit is 98+ and i have a 97. Hypermax makes an exhaust for it aswell but its cat back.

Gauges would be typical diesel. Pyrometer to keep track of exhaust temps, boost, and trans temps. Trans is good if youll be towing.

I have a dp tuner chip and i love it. I can adjust the programmed settings on the fly. Ive never used the edge so i dont know if you can do that aswell.

The dana 60 is great, any sterling from the same era truck or newer will work. Make sure you know the year of your front axle. Somewhere around 2002 the thread pitch on the wheel studs changed. They can be changed but id try to just find the correct axle.

Theres alot of performance upgrades for the 98+ diesels so take a pick of your website. Strictly dieael in az has been very good to me. I plan on buying parts from beans diesel performance aswell.

Ill think of more and post later. Goodluck and welcome to the 4x van addiction.

 

[FEDUPWBS]

Thanks for the info. Just found a freshly rebuilt Sterling (unknown year) with LSD and 4.56 in it complete with brakes for $400. Will be picking it up today. Does the ujor kit use f350 springs or custom? I will not be wasting time getting this thing running it needs to be done in 6-8 weeks.

 

[nely]

It uses lift springs for the rear made for the van. You need to relocate the spring perches and shocks on the sterling to make it work in rear of the van.

Autometer makes the pillar mount for the vans. Available from summit racing

Be careful with the good used parts. I picked up a "good" used front end. Needed all steering and ball joints within a year. Also its a goos idea to have the tcase inspected. It cost me 350 for inspection on the 271 and then needed parts so total came to $550. But i did purchase it for $90 for a junkyard so that was my reasoning to have it inspected

 

[ujoint]

Thanks for the info. Just found a freshly rebuilt Sterling (unknown year) with LSD and 4.56 in it complete with brakes for $400. Will be picking it up today. Does the ujor kit use f350 springs or custom? I will not be wasting time getting this thing running it needs to be done in 6-8 weeks.

Score! Thats a great deal. Factory LS?

I'm glad that Luke has been a good influence!

My kit uses custom springs, we build them to each van. To clear 37's, you'll need a 6" spring that nets a total of 8". For the rear, we'll do a custom spring as well, and dial it in for the best ride/load capacity. I personally like less lift with a small block (2") It gives the best ride. Bvan has this setup, and it drives like a dream (better than mine!)

 

[Toolman]

If I can offer some advice on the Diesel (not owning one) my Dad has a 7.3L in his Excursion, he tows a 25' Skipjack with it and has no problems except some minor maintenance. 486,000 miles and still going strong, the stock transmission with 1 overhaul, HE KEPT IT STOCK.
Sometimes my Dad's advice is worth it, "Keep it stock son, take care of it and it will take care of you. Ford spent countless $$$$ researching what would make that engine last. Programmers don't care if you motor lasts 50k miles. They just want your money."

His words not mine, but it makes me a believer. I would have bought a Diesel but I hate the way my work truck smells and sounds.

I didn't listen to him, I lifted my Van, UJOR conversion.. but I'm keeping the motor stock.

good luck with the build you found the right place for advice.
DO IT NICE OR DO IT TWICE !!! CRY ONCE WHEN YOU PAY FOR IT OR CRY EVERY TIME YOU USE IT !!!

 

[r_w]

I agree with Toolman (or actually his Dad) TO A POINT. NO WAY would I go out and buy a programmer or chip or bolt-on for a brand new engine or vehicle. Now after 10 years of real-world behind them, I would buy one of the reputable programmers. Many of them will actually pay for themselves with improved mileage, if you do your part and are not stupid with the right foot.

 

[FEDUPWBS]

It uses lift springs for the rear made for the van. You need to relocate the spring perches and shocks on the sterling to make it work in rear of the van.

Autometer makes the pillar mount for the vans. Available from summit racing

Be careful with the good used parts. I picked up a "good" used front end. Needed all steering and ball joints within a year. Also its a goos idea to have the tcase inspected. It cost me 350 for inspection on the 271 and then needed parts so total came to $550. But i did purchase it for $90 for a junkyard so that was my reasoning to have it inspected

My strategy is to purchase all used parts as cores and pay "core" prices if they need to be overhauled then so be it. The transfer case was pulled down and inspected by the reputable salvage yard (where I purchased it) inspected and resealed and came with a 6 month no bull warranty. Rear Diff will be here today and I will let you guys know whats really in it.
I took delivery of the van today and despite a cracked windshield its in great shape. I'll post pics as soon as I have time to snap em and figure out how to upload.
As far as factory engineering, one must factor that they build em strong enough to make the odds in their favor that it will make it through the warranty period before breaking down and not overbuild the vehicle to last forever and also cut into profits or under build and cut into profits. If one modifies only one part of a machine then other components/assemblies may be left vulnerable to failure if not made compatible. i.e 700hp engine w/stock trans and gearing may be a problem where as Lifted chassis and stock drive train are essentially unrelated components and not likely to cause a failure of the other. This being said my plan is not to make a desert race van but a very cool yet reliable and efficient all weather transport van that wont brake the bank while in service. I know this is asking allot but the goal is fairly loose so I am not demanding 20 MPG or towing ability of a Kenworth. I am certain an acceptable finished product can be obtained here.
As far as the exhaust system goes I have MIG, TIG and plasma on site and simple slice and adjust on a stainless F pipe kit is well within my skill level if that's all it takes. If its just NOT compatible I'll let it go. Thoughts?

 

[ujoint]

You're heading in the right direction with the right priorities, so I say continue as planned.

 

[FEDUPWBS]

Seems I just scored a complete less converter 4r100 trans core that was working but stored outside (engine was blown up and van was parted out) unit is ford reman and van had 100k total miles. Unfortunately it got dirty so must be gone through. Its out of an E-350 van cutaway chassis and has the parking brake drum in back of the tailshaft. If I understand correctly this will work as a 4x4 unit with the parking brake assembly removed? Thinking about doing the rebuild myself because my stock tranny works perfectly and will make a nice spare in a pinch with very little down time. Oh yes price was $100! seems only power train part I need now is a core front drive shaft. Any suggestions?

 

[FEDUPWBS]

BTW still cant find an answer to the question for the F series exhaust interchange/mods. Please help.

 

[ujoint]

Seems I just scored a complete less converter 4r100 trans core that was working but stored outside (engine was blown up and van was parted out) unit is ford reman and van had 100k total miles. Unfortunately it got dirty so must be gone through. Its out of an E-350 van cutaway chassis and has the parking brake drum in back of the tailshaft. If I understand correctly this will work as a 4x4 unit with the parking brake assembly removed? Thinking about doing the rebuild myself because my stock tranny works perfectly and will make a nice spare in a pinch with very little down time. Oh yes price was $100! seems only power train part I need now is a core front drive shaft. Any suggestions?

Sounds like you've scored again! Send some pics of the back of the tranny to confirm this. I've seen it on the 5R110's, never on a 4R. Front driveshaft cores can be found pretty cheap, 50-100.

BTW still cant find an answer to the question for the F series exhaust interchange/mods. Please help.

My exhaust started life as an RBP truck kit. A few of the mounts needed to be relocated to fit. The tailpipe is a little lower than I like, but it works.

 

[FEDUPWBS]

Just got back from tranny shop. Trans has been pulled down and inspected. All looks good inside. What updates and upgrades should I go with. I have confirmed that the parking brake cutaway chassis 4r100 is the same as the 4x4 tail/adapter and output shaft and bolts right up to the NV271.