building underbed storage w Coosa?

[simple]

I capped my honeycomb panel edge with 1" wide C shaped aluminum shelf stiffener extrusions. I don't think you need that thick of panel to span the ribs in your drawing. The general idea is to find some type of cap to bond over the edge.

Here is a site where you can look at the different extrusions for rectangular tube, I beams etc. I don't recommend ordering here as it's $$$. Once you know what you want you can go down to your local supplier and buy 20' sticks.

1" x 2" x 0.062" Alum Rectangle Tube 6061-T6-Extruded | Online Metals

View our full selection of 1" x 2" x 0.062" Aluminum Rectangle Tube 6061-T6-Extruded stock today on our website. Buy online with fast shipping direct to your door.

www.onlinemetals.com

If you want to make it removable, you could fit it up and have someone TIG weld the frame so you could take it in and out. Some self adhesive Velcro would probably hold it in place in the camper.

With your wood working skills, you can cut aluminum with a carbide saw blade and grind it to fit with an AL flap disk on a grinder. I cut a bunch thin aluminum with a little Makita battery circular saw with the thin blades and it worked great.

What's nice about the honeycomb with FRP skin is that it's water proof. We use camping sleeping pads and air them out. A foam mattress after a couple nights will build up moisture underneath it and needs some type of ventilation so it doesn't mildew. Maybe a foam mattress with a water proof cover and a wool pad on top might not have that issue.

 

[calameda]

I made our bed into a lifting platform over a storage area. Ikea slats instead of solid panel for the bed base. The nice thing about 80/20 is that it is infinitely adjustable/revisable. You can cut it with wood chop and table saws. No need to mess with FG, resin, or epoxies.

Really nice! Almost exactly what I intend to build, including the side gutters/bins.

Weight is the key priority for me. Do you have a final weight for this?

 

[calameda]

What's nice about the honeycomb with FRP skin is that it's water proof. We use camping sleeping pads and air them out. A foam mattress after a couple nights will build up moisture underneath it and needs some type of ventilation so it doesn't mildew. Maybe a foam mattress with a water proof cover and a wool pad on top might not have that issue.

We have froli springs under our 4”mattress so condensation not a problem. Still, may cut holes in the underbed panel just to save weight, depending on the material i use.

 

[andy_b]

We have froli springs under our 4”mattress so condensation not a problem. Still, may cut holes in the underbed panel just to save weight, depending on the material i use.

No final weight but reasonably light based on the amount of 80/20 I used. I had strongly considered Coosa or similar but 80/20 ends up being a lot cheaper and easier to work with. You can save weight by skipping the under bed panel and froli for just IKEA slats. I had a Froli kit to install and returned them when I figured out this solution.

 

[calameda]

You can save weight by skipping the under bed panel and froli for just IKEA slats. I had a Froli kit to install and returned them when I figured out this solution.

Well honestly the Frolis are mainly for comfort. The ventilation is a secondary benefit. Most comfortable camper bed I’ve slept on.

 

[simple]

How would Frolis or slats do when the lid is lifted up? Seems like they would need to be secured in some way.

 

[andy_b]

How would Frolis or slats do when the lid is lifted up? Seems like they would need to be secured in some way.

The ends of the slats sit on the 80/20 extrusions and are held in place with VHB. Due to natural variation, some slats don’t quite reach so I added a small bracket to the 80/20 with VHB to support those slats that were a bit too short.

By not having to buy 2 sheets of plywood and a Froli system, I saved a ton of money and weight. All of our beds at home have these IKEA slats (or similar) and we are not short on comfort. I’ve heard nothing but good things about the Froli system but it did not bring a ton of value for us.

 

[calameda]

How would Frolis or slats do when the lid is lifted up? Seems like they would need to be secured in some way.

for frolis I'll use pan head sheet metal screws through the holes in the froli mounting brackets, assuming i use wood or coosa for the lid. Maybe use VHB if i use honeycomb w frp skin.

No final weight but reasonably light based on the amount of 80/20 I used.

Would love to know what the weight is if you ever feel motivated to measure it.

Are you keeping the frame open? Or will you mount something to the frame to divide up the space? That separation will incur some additional weight of course.

All of our beds at home have these IKEA slats (or similar) and we are not short on comfort. I’ve heard nothing but good things about the Froli system but it did not bring a ton of value for us

But I’m guessing you have thicker mattresses at home!

The value of the froli is increased comfort for thin (less than 4 inch) mattresses, without adding much additional thickness (1.5 inches). That vertical height is precious in most cabovers. It won’t help much if you’re already using a 7”+ mattress in the cabover. But a mattress that thick is significantly heavier than a thin mattress + froli, all else being equal (same foam densities in both).

 

[andy_b]

for frolis I'll use pan head sheet metal screws through the holes in the froli mounting brackets, assuming i use wood or coosa for the lid. Maybe use VHB if i use honeycomb w frp skin.



Would love to know what the weight is if you ever feel motivated to measure it.

Are you keeping the frame open? Or will you mount something to the frame to divide up the space? That separation will incur some additional weight of course.



But I’m guessing you have thicker mattresses at home!

The value of the froli is increased comfort for thin (less than 4 inch) mattresses, without adding much additional thickness (1.5 inches). That vertical height is precious in most cabovers. It won’t help much if you’re already using a 7”+ mattress in the cabover. But a mattress that thick is significantly heavier than a thin mattress + froli, all else being equal (same foam densities in both).

Great points about comfort overall. We measured out the space of our cab over before submitting the final dimensions specifically to take into account that vertical height. At the time, we were planning on using the Froli system; the Ikea stuff is about the same height on average. I definitely think that the Froli system is great but the cost of the weight and $$$ didn’t seem to be worth it. I’m a side sleeper and our 4” mattress plus Ikea slats are definitely very comfortable.

We made ”boxes” out of heavy felt that sit inside the storage bins on either side. This does a good job of keeping things in their place without weighing too much.

The large open space under the bed itself has been left open intentionally. We usually only keep clothes there. Each person packs their stuff into a vacuum bag; that, along with a bag for dirty laundry keeps things fairly organized. Our camper is intended for trips between 1-2 weeks so residential levels of organization aren’t needed (like a proper dresser or something). Longer trips or more ppl may require a different solution.

I will try to measure the total amount of 80/20 we used to get a weight later this week.

A

 

[calameda]

I’m a side sleeper and our 4” mattress plus Ikea slats are definitely very comfortable.

That’s pretty great that you can be comfortable on a 4” mattress with slats. I find without the froli my hips and shoulders always bottom out on a thin mattress. But I’m guessing at 190 I’m carrying more weight than you are.

Do let me know if you get a weight on your frame. My initial calculations using Coosa 20 (with a plyboo face into the cabin to match rest of my cabinets) are pretty encouraging, between 55-60 lbs. The lid is approx half the weight of the total depending on lid material (coosa 20 is very close in weight to honeycomb FG laminate). I haven’t factored in weights of adhesive, paint and minimal hardware yet.

 

[calameda]

Kinda like a dado I guess, that goes all the way through one skin and the core, leaving only one skin left. The joint that I'm referring to is on the edge, not in the middle of a panel. Yes, I'm amazed that it holds together also... considering how much people worry about edge joining on this forum... but these companies have been building panels and campers for a long time, and I suspect it works fine.

BTW, I recall P&M mentioning that he made some interior cabinets and walls in his rig by just butting one to another in a T junction... with the glue of course, and a bead on each side.

I’m guessing you’ve seen this on the carbon core site, it shows exactly the construction method you mentioned:

Veneer Laminated Panels - Carbon-Core Corporation

The heart of this laminated panel is the same CarbonCore polypropylene honeycomb, that yacht builders have trusted to give them years of tough, rot proof service.

www.carbon-core.com

Very interested to try this method, not for the under-bed storage but for some wall cabinets I’ve been thinking about. I especially like the technique for kerfing a rounded curve though don’t know that I’ll use it. Just a cool construction technique.

Only problem is I can’t find the purchasing link for the luan laminate. I’ve asked them via email if they’re still offering it.

 

[rruff]

Looks like it works for them , too!

This is a video of Styromax joining panels. It's a shame they don't have an operation in the US.