I think the Tundra bumpers look awesome. Can I buy them?
Sounds like you could make some bucks if you could crank these out...
Thanks, now all I need is time and money to get a few made and see if they sell
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Bumper build
- Thread starter Benc
- Start date
Thanks, now all I need is time and money to get a few made and see if they sell
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01tundra
Explorer
It can be done-
Nice, what did you end up doing with the wiring? Can you put the full doors back on easily? On a rock crawler it nice to have the doors off but on a expo truck I like the full doors. But the tube doors do look nice!
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01tundra
Explorer
I usually ran the factory doors, they used the same removable pins. The door harness has a plug behind the kick panels. I would unplug them and throw a rubber plug in the hole when running the tube doors.
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seanpistol
Explorer
Really thinking about tackling the tub to fit 35s since my welding skills are decent these days... doesn't look too bad. Peel up the carpet, cut out where it's rubs at full compression and weld in new steel? How thick is the steel you welded in place?
Also- did you just trim the stock fenders?
Also- did you just trim the stock fenders?
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seanpistol
Explorer
Here's a little info I gathered quite a while ago on tubbing the Tundra. This guy was wheeling his 1st gen Tundra on 37's with long travel and Fiberglass fenders. Can you add anything helpful from your experience to this?
"""You need a small welder, a small cutoff/flap/grinding wheel, and a small reciprocating saw, in addition to the usual hand tools. This is necessary even with 33" tires, so like I said, do it once, for 35" tires. The best covering for the job is Herculiner, and the task will take a weekend of long hours to tub, plus several days of adding layers of Herculiner to the new, bare steel. It's nothing that demands action now now now, just something to keep in mind for the future. It's also not a bad idea to prepare yourself for the sight of empty space in the wheel well!
The lower fender support bolt disappears, so you'd need to come up with another way to attach the stock fender. Also, I'm not 100% sure the tire will fit in the stock well without pulling the inner fender. There's only about 3/4" clearance from a 35" tire to the top of the wheel well, and I mean the inner wheel well."""
"""You need a small welder, a small cutoff/flap/grinding wheel, and a small reciprocating saw, in addition to the usual hand tools. This is necessary even with 33" tires, so like I said, do it once, for 35" tires. The best covering for the job is Herculiner, and the task will take a weekend of long hours to tub, plus several days of adding layers of Herculiner to the new, bare steel. It's nothing that demands action now now now, just something to keep in mind for the future. It's also not a bad idea to prepare yourself for the sight of empty space in the wheel well!
The lower fender support bolt disappears, so you'd need to come up with another way to attach the stock fender. Also, I'm not 100% sure the tire will fit in the stock well without pulling the inner fender. There's only about 3/4" clearance from a 35" tire to the top of the wheel well, and I mean the inner wheel well."""
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I used a cut off wheel for the whole thing , seams to work the best. His took us about 3 hours a side, you will want someone inside the truck while you weld with a wet towel to stop any fires. I like to use 16 ga because you are cutting into the door pillar. Some people seam to not need to trim and plate the body mount but I did on his and mine. After you weld caulk all the welds inside and out ( I used exterior latex and smoothed it out) as for the inner fender, they will have to be removed. The bolt on the lower fender will have to be moved. All the interior needed was minor trimming on the kick panels . You will also need at least 1-1/2 in wheel spacers to clear the frame while turning. We had to do nothing to the rear to fit 35s
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seanpistol
Explorer
Awesome, thanks for the info.