Burley_Industries prototype expedition trailer

Burley

Adventurer
I got some more progress with the tailgate done tonight. I'm super happy with the way it's turning out. I think these lights are going to work really well and look really cool.



 

XJSuperman

OhIOWAn
I think you're right about the lights. They look good. Im diggin your style here too. Everything is solid, simple, and just a touch of old school mixed with uniqueness. When the time comes to build a trailer for myself, I may be back for some ideas.
 

Burley

Adventurer
Thanks. I'm stoked you're diggin the trailer. 'Solid and simple' that is definitely what I'm going for here. Maybe I should put that on my business card... if I ever get a business card.
 

colorado matt

Adventurer
the latches for the tailgate look like they stick out a bit on the side ... did you add metal to attach and if yes did you also have to add a piece to the tail gate so it all lines up ? ..... and back to the bumper comment from earlier ... will some support go under the bumpers or do you feel like it could hold someone standind on them ? ..... and the lights do look really great ... Matt
 

Burley

Adventurer
the latches for the tailgate look like they stick out a bit on the side ... did you add metal to attach and if yes did you also have to add a piece to the tail gate so it all lines up ? ..... and back to the bumper comment from earlier ... will some support go under the bumpers or do you feel like it could hold someone standind on them ? ..... and the lights do look really great ... Matt

Here is what I did with the latches. just tacked in for now. It's 2"x3/16" flat stock. As far as your other question I assume you meant fenders. I actually did stand on then, not on the edge but with the heel of my foot on the inside. There was little to no deflection, but I wouldn't want to much more than that on them (205lbs). But with that being said, I do plan to add a few small gussets and possibly tie the jerry can mounts into them, but undecided on that last part for sure.

 

colorado matt

Adventurer
oh yeah ..duh .... fenders .... sorry .... i will be watching ... i have a couple of other questions but i will be patient ... don't want to be the guy that you dread seeing a post from .... i agree with others ... solid .... simple ... and well explained ... perfect for an idiot like me .... Matt
 

colorado matt

Adventurer
ok ... 2 more .... how will the tailgate "seal" meaning it fits in the hole but what or how will weatherstripping work without something for the tailgate to push into ... know what i mean? ... and you mentioned in your first post about the size of the box being determined by the RTT ... and then the lid angles inward creating a smaller footprint ... will you add cross-bars after skinning the lid to get back to the size you want for the RTT .. or will the tent hang over a bit on the sides ?? .... i am quite jealous of your skills .... Matt
 

Vegas_Nick

Adventurer
Wow, you seem to copy the Max Coupler step for step. How original of you. Gather all of the parts yourself and build one, $$ and time. Then your labor. Then it is still inferior in quality and is not street legal! So then you spend more of your time swapping out for a ball coupler, which has its own issues, even on the road. Wow, just wow.

So did you join just so we could see your butthurt? 9 posts in and you start insulting a build. Wow, just wow!
 

Burley

Adventurer
ok ... 2 more .... how will the tailgate "seal" meaning it fits in the hole but what or how will weatherstripping work without something for the tailgate to push into ... know what i mean? ... and you mentioned in your first post about the size of the box being determined by the RTT ... and then the lid angles inward creating a smaller footprint ... will you add cross-bars after skinning the lid to get back to the size you want for the RTT .. or will the tent hang over a bit on the sides ?? .... i am quite jealous of your skills .... Matt

1.) This may be hard to explain so hopefully I'll have pictures soon to show. The plan is to add 1x1 on the inside of the tailgate around the frame, both sides and the top. Then install the seal to the 1x1. This way the tailgate has to be pressed against the the seal in order to latch. Adding the 1x1 across the bottom of the tailgate would just make getting things in and out a pain. Hopefully that makes sense.

2.) The way my RTT attaches is with two cross runners that stretch the length of it (front to back). I had thoughts of removing them and making a frame the full size of the tent/trailer but I scrapped that idea based solely on looks. This smaller roof rack I built, in my opinion, looks cleaner. It takes away from some of the boxyness of the trailer. When mounted, the tent will be the same 4'x6' that the trailer is, but its mounting will be further in from the edges. This way I can use the mounting system the tent came with and when the tent isn't on it for some reason, it hopefully wont look like a goofy converted utility trailer.

Hope that answered your questions.

Jake
 

colorado matt

Adventurer
perfect sense ..thanks ... I wondered about the bottom rail always dragging things on the way out of the trailer ... I like version 2 of the propane holder better also ... Matt
 

Burley

Adventurer


I took the advise from a few different people and trimmed the 90 deg corner off the back of the fender.



Added 1x2 to the help give the side skins some backing.



After a full day of welding up skins.



Fender skins cut and tacked on.
 

colorado matt

Adventurer
it looks great ... how tall to the center of the tongue when trailer is level? .... do you have a guess on weight ... do you have a weight you are shooting for ... quite anxious to see how the lid gets skinned.... Matt
 

Burley

Adventurer
it looks great ... how tall to the center of the tongue when trailer is level? .... do you have a guess on weight ... do you have a weight you are shooting for ... quite anxious to see how the lid gets skinned.... Matt

The center of the tongue is about 24" when level. I don't really have a guess on weight or a weight in mind other than as light as possible without to much compromise in strength. A quick metal calculator shows the weights I have so far:
2) 2x2x0.120 - #156
3) 2x2x0.083 - #162
2) 1x1x0.083 - #54
4) 4x8x16ga - #313
I had to guess for the axle and tires - #200
Total - #885

I'll be extremely happy if the total dry weight is near the #1000 mark.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
188,217
Messages
2,903,954
Members
229,665
Latest member
SANelson
Top