Buying & Building a Medium Ambulance into an RV – The FAM-BULANCE
- Thread starter rlrenz
- Start date
rlrenz
Explorer
It's hard to tell just what it is. There weren't any photos, so it may have been an actual ambulance that was possibly set up for long distance transport. They referenced Cruise-Aire, which is one of the brands that's part of Dometic, so it may have been a roof top AC unit. It doesn't say how large the TV is, either. The Westerbeke generator is definitely an upper-end unit that you wouldn't expect in an RV conversion.
patoz
Expedition Leader
I thought I recognized the Cruise-Aire name, but just couldn't pin it down at the moment. It does sound like some type of speciality transport vehicle, and not just a standard road ambulance.
If it does have roof top air, all you would have to do is add a refrigerator and a porta potty, and it would be ready to go!
If it does have roof top air, all you would have to do is add a refrigerator and a porta potty, and it would be ready to go!
rlrenz
Explorer
Other than the fact that it would be about 8" higher than my garage door--- And that's why I'm installing a Hoseline conversion -- not free by a darn site, but it doesn't raise the roof.
Murphy's Law being in control, the cost to raise my garage clearance is probably about the same as installing the Hoseline conversion.
patoz
Expedition Leader
AW come on, where's your sense of adventure? Just cut a notch wide enough for the A/C unit and hang a rubber flap over it like a doggie door! :coffeedrink:
rlrenz
Explorer
If I did that, my only problem would be how to hold the garage roof up.....
I thought about that about a year ago, and I'd wind up having to darn near reframe the whole garage - and that would probably cost more than an ambulance air conditioner.
Nope - there isn't a cheap solution out there.
I thought about that about a year ago, and I'd wind up having to darn near reframe the whole garage - and that would probably cost more than an ambulance air conditioner.
Nope - there isn't a cheap solution out there.
rlrenz
Explorer
The mighty HOAs have been a thorn in the side for many people - look at how many times they have gotten upset over displaying a US flag, let alone paint colors and landscaping. They often become dictatorships where only a few can rule the roost -- don't get me started about HOAs.......
In other news, I finally figured where the panels for the new AC system have to live. I want the AC/DC converter to live in the electrical cabinet since the cabinet is also the cold air return for the AC evaporator/blower, so I won't have to worry about overheating the converter - if I installed it in the old oxygen cabinet, I'd have both the Iota battery charger and the converter side-by-side, and temperature rise might become a problem.
I want to install the CM-3000 digital thermostat in the electrical cabinet since it has a relatively short temperature sensor lead. Plus, both of these are fairly small profile, and won't block the air flow through the cabinet.
The GOTTCHA in my planning has been the main AC control panel. It's large enough (width and thickness) that it may become an air flow blockade in the electrical cabinet, plus it has enough wires from it to the system components that the wires may also become a problem in this location. I decided to install it in the old oxygen cabinet - access will be excellent for installation, convoluted tubing can be easily installed both through the top and the bottom of the cabinet, and there is a clear route for wiring to the main module electrical panel.
In other news, I finally figured where the panels for the new AC system have to live. I want the AC/DC converter to live in the electrical cabinet since the cabinet is also the cold air return for the AC evaporator/blower, so I won't have to worry about overheating the converter - if I installed it in the old oxygen cabinet, I'd have both the Iota battery charger and the converter side-by-side, and temperature rise might become a problem.
I want to install the CM-3000 digital thermostat in the electrical cabinet since it has a relatively short temperature sensor lead. Plus, both of these are fairly small profile, and won't block the air flow through the cabinet.
The GOTTCHA in my planning has been the main AC control panel. It's large enough (width and thickness) that it may become an air flow blockade in the electrical cabinet, plus it has enough wires from it to the system components that the wires may also become a problem in this location. I decided to install it in the old oxygen cabinet - access will be excellent for installation, convoluted tubing can be easily installed both through the top and the bottom of the cabinet, and there is a clear route for wiring to the main module electrical panel.
rlrenz
Explorer
I just heard from the dealer who has the 1999 Freightliner / Medic Master - it is a neonatal transport unit that was used in Florida, and is available for $19,900. Considering the cost of the Westerbeke generator alone, the price is attractive, but I already have an ambulance. That's the way of the world---
He sent me some photos that are definitely food for thought as I work on my RV conversion.
He sent me some photos that are definitely food for thought as I work on my RV conversion.
rlrenz
Explorer
I decided to check out the 120 volt wiring in the module's action area. Naturally, nothing had any tags on it, but by shorting out the cable ends by the Vanner inverter, and using my trusty DMM, I found the old lines that had gone to the module's GFCI and then back to the Vanner. They were clipped and tossed. I left the convoluted tubing in case I need to pull more wiring to the action area. I found that one of the cables had been replaced at some time in the past, and the new cable was spliced to the existing with wire nuts-----wire nuts are a giant NO-NO in emergency vehicles, so I assume that the repair might have been done by an electrician, just not an emergency vehicle electrician. The splice was upgraded to a crimped connection, and all is now well with the world.
When I bought the buggy, I installed a new Panasonic AM/FM/CD/Sirius cab radio. It works fine, but the vehicle is loud enough at high way speeds that it's difficult to hear. I decided to see what the Freightliner dealer had in new radios - last spring, their parts guy told me that they buy AM/FM/CD radios by the pallet since they have a short life in trucks, and that they price them accordingly. I checked, and I was able to pick up a Panasonic AM/FM/CD radio (with a remote control!) for $105. Is it last year's model? Beats me - I'm not a trend-setter in vehicle entertainment devices. The new radio will go into the cab, and the one I removed will be transplanted to the module. I can move the TRAM satellite radio antenna to the module easily, and the module already has speakers that are now connected to the cab radio.
I've been debating what kind of a cook top to install. Since it's primary purpose is to qualify the vehicle as an RV, I didn't want to buy a $400 marine unit, so I settled for a Suburban RV 2 burner cooktop with match ignition. $120 versus $400 - a difficult decision.... The $120 cooktop was delivered today, so I can do all the measuring to build the drawer that will hold it. The drawer will be made from 1/2" Baltic Birch, with white Formica on the sides and 16/18 gauge brushed stainless on the top and up the rear backsplash. The drawer will slide on standard emergency vehicle stainless slides.
When I bought the buggy, I installed a new Panasonic AM/FM/CD/Sirius cab radio. It works fine, but the vehicle is loud enough at high way speeds that it's difficult to hear. I decided to see what the Freightliner dealer had in new radios - last spring, their parts guy told me that they buy AM/FM/CD radios by the pallet since they have a short life in trucks, and that they price them accordingly. I checked, and I was able to pick up a Panasonic AM/FM/CD radio (with a remote control!) for $105. Is it last year's model? Beats me - I'm not a trend-setter in vehicle entertainment devices. The new radio will go into the cab, and the one I removed will be transplanted to the module. I can move the TRAM satellite radio antenna to the module easily, and the module already has speakers that are now connected to the cab radio.
I've been debating what kind of a cook top to install. Since it's primary purpose is to qualify the vehicle as an RV, I didn't want to buy a $400 marine unit, so I settled for a Suburban RV 2 burner cooktop with match ignition. $120 versus $400 - a difficult decision.... The $120 cooktop was delivered today, so I can do all the measuring to build the drawer that will hold it. The drawer will be made from 1/2" Baltic Birch, with white Formica on the sides and 16/18 gauge brushed stainless on the top and up the rear backsplash. The drawer will slide on standard emergency vehicle stainless slides.
rlrenz
Explorer
I decided to take a photo of the wire nuts. The neat tape job kinda looks like it may have been done by an electrician, just not an emergency vehicle electrician. I untaped the nuts to see what the wire looked like, and I was able to pull the wire nuts straight off with two fingers - the tape was all that had been holding the splice together. How's that for a warm fuzzy?
We joke about it, but no way are wire nuts designed for vehicular applications.
And while we're at it, the "insulation displacing" connectors that are available at auto stores are also not a good idea for vehicles - they don't make very positive contact, and they can corrode and become intermittent very quickly. Take the time to use a crimp connector.
We joke about it, but no way are wire nuts designed for vehicular applications.
And while we're at it, the "insulation displacing" connectors that are available at auto stores are also not a good idea for vehicles - they don't make very positive contact, and they can corrode and become intermittent very quickly. Take the time to use a crimp connector.
rlrenz
Explorer
For those of us with ambulances based on a Freightliner chassis, Freightliner has a separate information website (www.accessfreightliner.com) that is more specific to our individual vehicles, with wiring data/etc available. You need to register with the web site, including the last 6 digits of your VIN. If the Freightliner ownership records don't match up, you'll get a note from them that you don't show up as the owner. At that point, bring a copy of your title to a Freightliner dealer, and ask their service department warranty person to pass the info on the Freightliner. Once their records are corrected, you can register, and you'll wind up with a unique user name and password