jesusgatos
Explorer
Been thinking a lot more about trailers lately. Think I'm going to follow your lead here (rear slide-out). Just makes too much sense. Only have to figure out all the details...
C5500 TopKick 4x4 Crew Cab Build
- Thread starter NeverEnough
- Start date
Ford Prefect
Expedition Leader
This is the "semi-custom" configuration I am now offering (I figure each truck builder is going to want different lengths, treads, etc.).
Not the "sexiest" photos, but they have gotten years of testing.
I love these Joaquin,
They are really super, the only concern is that you would be forced to have them between the frame rails, no?
Personally I think if you made up Egn's platform, and then had Joaquin's steps slide out from under that deck, you would be in super condition.
Of course that can seriously add to the weight. I think if I did that I would also fix a ladder under the deck, therefore if I did not want to pull out the deck I could just use the ladder for simple stops like grocery and gas stops etc.
NeverEnough
Adventurer
With any luck, I should be able to tell you by the end of January if my set-up works. The trick is supporting a significant cantilevered load, both during deployment and once it's out there.
If I were doing a rear slide for a trailer, I think I'd go back to my original "ramp-door" approach to supporting the slide. Open the door until it's level with the floor, then use some simple landing-gear drop jacks on a swivel mount on the end of the door to support the load. The slide can then roll out onto the door. You could also use cables attached to the upper rear of the box, but I like to transfer loads to the ground whenever possible. The extra time, weight, and hassle of landing gears and jacks is worth it for me in order to have more stable living quarters. The door also provides a great weather seal for the slide out, not to mention the best possible obstruction to keep the slide from popping out the back!
I'm fine-tuning the rollers and tracks for mine, trying to keep in mind the system will need to deal with a lot of bouncing around.
jesusgatos
Explorer
Yes, I'm planning on using a ramp-door, and will be supporting it on cables primarily, with landing gear that I can deploy if the trailer is disconnected from the tow-rig (my trailer is only 10ft long, so it would be kinda tipsy). Very curious to see what you've got cookin' as far as the rollers and tracks and all that. Going to make my slide-out fit on the outside of the trailer enclosure, because I'll have things attached to the walls on the inside of the trailer enclosure. Think I'm actually still going to try to build it out of lightweight modular panels that will be hinged together, so I can take the slide-out apart and use the panels for other things (shade awnings, windblocks, etc.). Thanks for the inspiration, and for leading the way.
NeverEnough
Adventurer
Jack,
what are the dimensions of that step?
And on your slide out rear steps? I could create a cavern for them within my shell under the internal entry steps, provided they fold fairly flat (4"?) and aren't too long (33"?). Something tells me you could whip up a set to order. I'd love some sort of little landing gear on mine.
what are the dimensions of that step?
And on your slide out rear steps? I could create a cavern for them within my shell under the internal entry steps, provided they fold fairly flat (4"?) and aren't too long (33"?). Something tells me you could whip up a set to order. I'd love some sort of little landing gear on mine.
I use the accordian steps going directly out from the door in the back. I installed a swing out hand rail typically seen on fifth wheel RV's because I too was worried about the fall risk. I initially thought the hand rail would not stick out far enough to be effective but I was pleasantly surprised that it's functional for the complete walk up and down the steps. I don't have a picture.
My handrail probably would not be as useful with a full height door but since mine is a pop up that requires bending over to get thru the short door, your hand is low enough when exiting that it is in a position to be held firm while walking down all the steps. If a person were standing fully upright when exiting the door, the handrail would be too low to be useful for the first couple of steps.
NeverEnough
Adventurer
I think I'm going to stick with having an internal set of steps and stairwell so the external steps won't have to be as substantial. I like the idea of a handrail, however. I'll measure up some of the stock ones and drop one into my 3D model to see if it would work.
NeverEnough
Adventurer
Slowly but surely the subframe and mounting are getting done. Here's some photos of some of the details.
This shows the rubber padding between the rails and the aluminum sills. (Tomorrow the frame rails get cut to their final length.)
Here's the fixed mount at the very rear of the subframe:
There are three pairs of spring mounts forward of the axles. This show the forward two:
And the detail of one of the mounts. Not sure why two different springs. I'll ask about that tomorrow, since all the jefes were gone when I arrived.
This shows the gussets on the drop-box portions of the subframe. They make the box stronger and give the retention "feet" something to grab.
This shot shows the rear aluminum body frame, which will be bolted and glued to the detachable composite box. The front of the box will have an identical assembly, but shorter because of the cabover. You can't tell from the photo, but the vertical contact surfaces are sloped at 60 degrees to help the body guide itself onto the subframe.
The photo shows the final dimension of the camper box: 102" wide by 118" tall. The bottom of the subframe's lowest point will be about 24" off the ground once it's mounted, making the height just under 12'. Rooftop accessories will add some more, with the A/C unit being the tallest at 7.5 inches.
This shows the rubber padding between the rails and the aluminum sills. (Tomorrow the frame rails get cut to their final length.)
Here's the fixed mount at the very rear of the subframe:
There are three pairs of spring mounts forward of the axles. This show the forward two:
And the detail of one of the mounts. Not sure why two different springs. I'll ask about that tomorrow, since all the jefes were gone when I arrived.
This shows the gussets on the drop-box portions of the subframe. They make the box stronger and give the retention "feet" something to grab.
This shot shows the rear aluminum body frame, which will be bolted and glued to the detachable composite box. The front of the box will have an identical assembly, but shorter because of the cabover. You can't tell from the photo, but the vertical contact surfaces are sloped at 60 degrees to help the body guide itself onto the subframe.
The photo shows the final dimension of the camper box: 102" wide by 118" tall. The bottom of the subframe's lowest point will be about 24" off the ground once it's mounted, making the height just under 12'. Rooftop accessories will add some more, with the A/C unit being the tallest at 7.5 inches.
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jesusgatos
Explorer
Love that you're making the whole box detachable. Are you going to build-in some kind of camper jacks or...
jayshapiro
Adventurer
Great Job!
Finally just spent the time to read through this whole thread. Can't believe how far you have gotten already! That's great. Really impressed with how it is coming together.
Let us know if we can be of any more help...
As for your A/C, you might want to consider putting something down between the frame rails, to save your clearance height up top. We used a Sun Power Technologies that is a high efficiency DC-based (i.e. not AC via an inverter) so that it will run off your solar/batteries. Great units, but only 4,000BTU.
Anyhow, great job so far!
Jay.
Finally just spent the time to read through this whole thread. Can't believe how far you have gotten already! That's great. Really impressed with how it is coming together.
Let us know if we can be of any more help...
As for your A/C, you might want to consider putting something down between the frame rails, to save your clearance height up top. We used a Sun Power Technologies that is a high efficiency DC-based (i.e. not AC via an inverter) so that it will run off your solar/batteries. Great units, but only 4,000BTU.
Anyhow, great job so far!
Jay.
jesusgatos
Explorer
X 2. I went with a heat/AC unit made by RedDOT. Mine is a wall-mounted heat and AC unit that was originally intended for use in armored cars. Have mounted the unit, but haven't hooked it up yet. Specs are impressive though (48,000BTU heating, 32,000BTU cooling, 425CFM). Pretty compact little unit too, just gotta remember that it uses a remote-mounted condenser (big one) so you'll need to figure out somewhere to mount that.
NeverEnough
Adventurer
I've ordered some custom jacks, 4 pair in total. Each is rated for 5,000lbs. Each corner of the box will have a jack with 30" of travel and a 28" drop-leg, with the forward pair on beefed up "swing-out" mounts. Another pair of the same dimensions will be mounted on the rear of the slide out, wired to work in concert with the "main" rear jacks (L-L, R-R).
A final pair, which also have to be custom, will be mounted just behind the front axle of the truck. I want to be able to level the rig with the box mounted and didn't want the camper to lift the heaviest part of the truck- the front. It would place a huge load on those jacks and the mounting points, as well as provide an opportunity for the rig to teeter due to the front-heavy configuration. The forward jacks will also allow me to more safely service the front drive train (i.e. change a tire).
Because the front jacks will need to work either independently or in concert with the front camper jacks, I had to order two control units and I have to come up with a toggle switch (not to mention making sure I don't forget to include the jack wiring in the umbilical!).
Each jack weighs approximately 40lbs. and they're all electric because I needed them to work in a bi-directional fashion (the camper jacks also act as part of the retaining system for the box).
NeverEnough
Adventurer
Nice to hear from you Jay, and I hope you and your family are having a great adventure. Your build thread has been a huge help for my little project.
Two questions for you: Have you run into situations, i.e. rural low overpasses, where >12 feet is a problem? My biggest past problem has been snagging tree branches, which have cost me a couple of A/C housings and vent caps. Second, was your cabover "pop-up" worth the the trouble?
I scouted out most of the DC A/C products a few months back, for precisely what you mentioned regarding the solar/battery configuration. I need something ductable, and had targeted a 10,000btu/hr minimun (even though I don't think we really need that much). I was shocked at the cost of the higher capacity DC units, so I kind of pushed that off into what I call the "EcoJohn" zone.
I'll reach out to both Sunpower and RedDot. I can't put anything else between the rails, but I've got a spot or two that could accommodate the box and provide a decent ducting layout.
I've got enough solar to run the current A/C candidate (Polar Mach RuffNeck low profile), under the assumption that we only need the A/C while the sun is out and high (summer daytimes). That'll probably be fine for western North America, but we'd need to run the generator if we venture south.
jesusgatos
Explorer
Ah, I see where you're going with that. Clever. I've been thinking about how to build camper jacks for my truck, but it's a bit more complicated when the bottom of the box is over 4ft off the ground.
NeverEnough
Adventurer
The key measurement is how much lift you need. In my case, it's a minimum of 24", since my box wraps around the chassis and the wheels (I have everything on-board the camper when de-mounted- tanks, genset, storage, batteries, propane, etc.), so I have to clear the wheel wells to pull the truck forward. The "floor" of my camper is 58" off the ground.
When the jacks are extended there will be at least 48" of walk-under space when mounting/unmounting the truck- hey, that could be handy if the water starts rising! Actually, even with six legs down, I'll always lower it as much a possible, and I'm probably going to implement some type of stablizer arms between the jack legs. I hate wobbly campers.
You can mount your jacks as low as you want, as long as they can reach the ground and give you the lift you need. Drop legs are nice because you can keep you mount high- and therefore your ground clearance- high.
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