Camper Shells: your experiences and suggestions

[Mike S]

Thanks Mike. Our very own J_L has an A.R.E. with tracks installed. Also called artificial gutters? I've got Yak bars on control towers and landing pads now, and would really prefer to just mount those on top of the shell, virtually in the same kind of position as these tracks. Since I already own them. Here's a shot of an A.R.E. with the tracks:

Anyway, are those "artificial gutters" or is that something else?

Mark -- there are a couple of ways to attach a standard gutter mount rack system. The Yakima Landing Pads are a good way to go. I use them on my trailer top and have Thule gutter mount towers. If you already have the Yakima Top Loaders and Control Towers, just use them. Mount them as far outboard as pssible, consistent with being functional for the towers. You may or may not need longer/shorter cross bars.

The 'artificial rain gutters' are simply short lengths of shaped metal, not very different from the Top Loader, but they canbe mounted on the side f the shell, thus allowing some control of the height of the cross bars. Both Thule and Quik'nEasy sell them. Here is the Thule 542 articial rain gutter...

If you decide on the ARE or other top line caps, you should have no problem with the Landing Pads or the artificial rain gutters. The option of a manufacturer installed rack system is also good, and most will accept Thule accessories.

MIKE

 

[adrenaline503]

I had a Gem Top on my work truck a few years back. That thing was tough. We had the lumber rack mounted to it to carry conduit. I know that I put 500 feet of rigid conduit up there and had no problems. I was going to buy one for my frontier when I found the wildernest.

 

[Bella PSD]

I was going to use the "artificial gutters" on my Ford but ended up just drilled through the honeycomb reinforcement. I then attached to roof rack with 12 ¼ 20 bolts. Next time I install a roof rack on a fiberglass cap I am going to use the artificial gutters.

On my old Isuzu I attached the roof rack with 12 ¼ 20 bolts through the fiberglass very close to the edge, almost going downward. This was very strong. Much stronger than the way I installed the rack on the ARE cap on the Ford.

Louie

 

[Kilroy]

I'm using an ARE shell on my Tundra DC. It has performed fine with a few exceptions, one due to installer. That was leaking every time it rained in the front of the shell, even when parked. Tried new shell installation foam, but eventually squirted some peal and stick caulk in and that it sealed up. I was also having leakage in the rear after about 3 years. The seal around the rear window was no longer sealing. Easy fix after you figure where leak is.

Couple of suggestions on options. Listen to suggestions to get the side windows. Easier access to stuff and more potential screened area for ventilation. Front opening window is handy if you want to access the truck cab. Rails mounted on top to use Yakima rack mounts are a really a handy, adjustable way to go. I have them on truck cab also and allows for carrying some really long stuff securely.

Best option, actually combination of two, on the cap is the center opening handle with the optional electric opener that hooks into trucks electric locks. I also added electric lock to tailgate. One click, everything is open, and visa versa. Really handy. One shell dealer said he didn't recommend them because they would get corroded and freeze up. Haven't had a problem in 4 years. Because of electric feature, lock is "exercised" every time you lock/unlock truck. I use my truck for work during the week and wouldn't want to be without then, or when using it for more important stuff, like trips. I also use a bedslide for easy access to inside of truck bed.

 

[madizell]

The Ford has the Leer high top, the Nissan a SnugTop Super Sport. I think both units are well built. Each has a sliding back glass that tilts out for cleaning. I have noticed with each truck that there is an immediate feeling of hauling a load with the tops in place. Not that either top is really light, but especially with the Leer, it really cut down on performance with the top in place.

(P.S. I really miss the garage in Alaska. Not the winters there, just the garage.)

 

[Martinjmpr]

Re: Rack Attachment:

Both my current Leer and my previous Raven had the artificial gutters for racks. Neither one has leaked. Artificial gutters will keep the top of the roof from flexing, which I would worry about if it was something mounted more on the top. On both of my shells the artificial gutters were mounted so as to direct the weight to the vertical portion of the shell rather than the horizontal.

However, fiberglass is subject to stress cracking under heavy loads. Before mounting something as heavy as a RTT on a fiberglass shell I would want to make sure it could handle both the static load of the full RTT with 2 people (call it 500lb at least) as well as the dynamic load of the RTT in stowed position when driving on rough, rutted or uneven roads (call it 125lb or so.) Even if it could my guess is it would shorten the life of your shell. Maybe not a big deal, but maybe so. I would certainly dismount the tent when it was not needed (in fact, I'd seriously consider removing the tent every morning and stowing it in the back of the truck, both to keep weight off the roof as well as to improve aerodynamics.)

 

[HMR]

I would certainly dismount the tent when it was not needed (in fact, I'd seriously consider removing the tent every morning and stowing it in the back of the truck, both to keep weight off the roof as well as to improve aerodynamics.)

I had to read that twice...

Remove the RTT each morning? That's a big job and would take up lots of space in the truck. Wouldn't it be more simple to use a ground tent?

 

[crawler#976]

I've used the c-clamps for years and have had no problems. Even with a moderately well loaded Yakima Mega Warrior rack (full sized spare, 5 gallons fuel, hi-lift, and shovel, and a Weber grill strapped down on top of that) I've never encountered a loose clamp. I'm only using two per side.

I know it's been covered, but having the side window that open is flat out awesome. Access to the interior is exceptional. It's my one regret with the '05 Taco - I just couldn't afford the extra cost at the time, so while my '98 has them, the '05 doesn't, and it sucks...

My rack is mounted with the gutter type mounts, and at this point I realize I should have gone with my instincts and built my own system. The damn thing require constant attention - the tend to loosen up under hard use on washboard roads. Also the rubber isolator stuff failed a long time ago. I know I could have fabbed up a better support that would be much more solid, and a lot more ridged to boot.

 

[Martinjmpr]

I had to read that twice...

Remove the RTT each morning? That's a big job and would take up lots of space in the truck. Wouldn't it be more simple to use a ground tent?

Probably, I've never used one so I don't know. To be honest I don't get the attraction to the RTT. Like a snorkel or limb risers, it looks rugged and "salty" but it's terribly expensive and comes with some huge downsides, size and weight being the biggest ones. If it's big and heavy, it seems like it would seriously compromise the side hill ability of your vehicle. No way would I want to do even a moderate sidehill with that kind of weight on the roof.

 

[madizell]

If it's big and heavy, it seems like it would seriously compromise the side hill ability of your vehicle. No way would I want to do even a moderate sidehill with that kind of weight on the roof.

While any additional weight that high on a vehicle necessarily affects C/G, unless the vehicle in question is also seriously lifted without a widened track, I think the concern is misplaced. First, most guys who use RTT's on a regular basis don't take the loaded, expedition-type vehicle into rugged off-camber terrain on a regular basis. These rigs are more for back road travel than rock crawling or serious way-off-road performance driving. Surely I have seen back roads that had rock crawling elements to them, but roll-over country isn't the kind of terrain I would expect an expedition vehicle driver to seek out.

Second, most RTT's weigh around 200 pounds or less installed. That's the equivalent of a husky guy sitting on your roof. It isn't as much weight as it might seem, and certainly won't cause undue roll over potential, all other things being equal. Moderate side hills should be well within the envelop for vehicles with RTT's installed. I have seen the occasional FJ40 on 42 inch tires, spring over etc., no sway bars, with the roof rack loaded with full-sized spare tire, 30 gallons or so of fuel in jerry cans, and miscellaneous other gear, do some of the most demanding trails you could imagine, without rolling over.

It isn't that a roof is the best place to carry a heavy tent, but rather that it is a very convenient place to carry a camp site wherever you go.

 

[ntsqd]

I have a fiberglass shell on Patch. A brand that has since gone under, I think. I echo those who like camping with one, but don't like driving with one. I keep pondering how to get rid of it, only to come back to keeping it. Maybe if it were easier to R&R by myself it wouldn't be so bad.

 

[Martinjmpr]

I have seen a hoist you can put in your garage, uses a series of pulleys. I guess the idea is you back the truck into the garage, unbolt the shell, put the hooks from the hoist (or more likely some kind of long support like a carpet-covered 2x4) under the edge of the shell and then crank the thing up and it lifts the shell off the truck. This resolves the two big hassles of removing a shell which are (1) how to get it off and (2) where to keep it.

I have been really wanting to take mine off for the summer, just because I don't want to carry around extra weight and also in case I decide to buy another motorcycle and need a way to carry it. Fortunately we have a big backyard so if I can convince the SO not to complain about the shell in the yard I should be OK. In winter I like having the shell and carpet kit for a number of reasons. For one thing, when I buy groceries I can put them in the back instead of trying to shoehorn them into the cab. It also gives me weight in the rear of the truck which is good for traction.

 

[ntsqd]

I did build something like that when my shop was an industrial bay. Perhaps those offered for sale work better, but it was a scary & ungainly procedure. Only did it once, that cured me.
My current 40's era garage's door opening is too low to contemplate such a device.

 

[akphotobob]

I wanted a hightop, aerodynamic shell I could camp and live in (not a camper, I didn't want the weight or extra width). I couldn't find anything I wanted so I built my own. You can see the story with pictures here:

http://cheaprvliving.com/BuildYourOwnCamper.html

It is about 500 lbs and built to last 100 years. I am very happy with it.

 

[Kilroy]

Lifting shell

I forgot to mention in my last post, the Yakima mounting system has worked for me as points to hoist the shell off the truck when I want to install the FWC.

I had a home made a hoist, but now using a hoist sold by a home improvement store in WI (Menards). It is a rack that is designed to go on your garage ceiling to store stuff on. There is a handle like a skylight uses to raise and lower the rack. The rack is rated at 250 lbs and seems to handle the shell fine.

It goes without saying (guess not because I'm saying it) that any hoist needs to be very securely mounted.