Of course, it's called a lighting circuit or a pump circuit.
If you work backwards to the fuse panel, you can design it to work well & safely.
Start with the watts each device on a circuit needs at peak draw, add all those together, divide by the voltage (nominal-for autos usually 12-v.).
4 x 9-watt lights = 36 watts on 12-volt power = 3-amps
Measure the total distance between the fuse panel and the farthest device, double it, because the current returns through the neutral.
This assumes that you are wiring the lights in parallel, which means your hot (black wire) is joined to the hot of each device, and it does not need to go through each device to power the next (in the black, out the other, in series). So every light has the hot connect to the hot, and the neutral to the neutral wire.
Look at the chart from Blue Sea to see how big a wire you should run to power the circuit (depending on how many volts a device can tolerate loosing before it fails to function)
Engineering high quality marine electrical components for safety, reliability and performance
www.bluesea.com
Then take a look at their next chart, which shows the fusing options and gives a range of fuses that will protect the wires & devices without blowing.
Engineering high quality marine electrical components for safety, reliability and performance
www.bluesea.com
These are just charts, the data work with any wire/fuse--not specific to Blue Sea products.
What you'll notice is that a certain point, it is less hassle to add another circuit rather than increase the wire size going to each device, or too many things might go offline if a single fuse blows, as Verkstad points out.