Day 5
Day 5, 27 March 08
I had already had to cancel or modify some of my previous plans, and as I stated above, I was ready to ditch my plan to wake up early to see sunrise on Bryce. Well, that may have been my plan, but when my bladder woke me up at 5:30am, I said “what the hell? I’m up, right?” So I threw the truck tent in the back of the truck and took off toward Bryce. I was actually rushing, thinking I’d miss the sunrise if I didn’t hurry. Well, I needn’t have worried: I pulled into Sunset Point (much less crowded than nearby Sunrise Point) at 6:55, almost 30 minutes before sunrise. At that altitude (about 9,000’) it was cold, so I sat in the truck to stay warm. There was still considerable snow on the fields and in the forests, and of course, it was also adorning the numerous spires of Bryce Canyon. About 7:10 I got out and walked the trail from Sunset to Sunrise point, where a small crowd, mostly composed of foreign tourists, had already gathered to watch the sun rise.
As you can see, we weren’t disappointed. After a few minutes and a few dozen pictures, I walked back to the truck, intending to have a decent breakfast and a final shower back at the campground.
Around 9:30, I finally left the campground for good, stopping briefly at the Grand Staircase/Escalante National Monument Visitor Center in Cannonville to chat with the bored ranger on duty. He assured me that Cottonwood Canyon road was passable, but warned me that there was construction on the Southern end. I took off down Cottonwood, first passing by Kodachrome Basin state park, which I just didn’t want to take the time to visit. Honestly, I was getting a little tired of traveling at this point and was entertaining thoughts that I might actually be able to make it home tonight, even though it was more than 600 miles away. I continued down Cottonwood Canyon road, which was well graded most of the way. I stopped at Grosvenor Arch, a multi-arched structure just off Cottonwood Road. Very nice and quite photogenic.
While there I talked briefly with two older women, also from Colorado, who were traveling the opposite direction. After a few photos I again headed South.
One word of warning about Cottonwood Road. While the road itself is very well graded and maintained, there are warning signs that the road is impassable in wet weather. This is true and should be heeded! It has nothing to do with the road itself, rather it is the fact that the road crosses numerous low washes, any of which would fill up during the flash flood season.
At about this point, we started following a huge geological feature called the Cock’s Comb. This line of nearly identical triangular hills runs straight to the South and the road follows it, sometimes weaving to one side or another.
About 10 miles North of the intersection with US 89, I started to run into the construction. After having to slam on the brakes and back up to avoid one of those giant dump trucks hauling two huge boulders, I decided to slow down a bit. This is also where the road got extremely dusty and unpleasant. Fortunately, it was just a few miles before I finally came to Highway 89 and blessed, blessed pavement.
I turned Left to go Southeast towards Glen Canyon dam and Page. The first sight of Lake Powell is pretty amazing, even this photo doesn’t really do it justice:
From there it was straight down to the bridge and dam. The Glen Canyon dam has a pretty nice visitor center (albeit with airport-type security!) and an interesting interpretive display on the subject of drought, which the lake is experiencing now. Who knows, with our higher than normal snowpack, maybe it will help fill the lake a bit.
A quick gas and lunch stop in Page, after admiring all the sheer red cliffs, and I took off across State Highway 98 as it wends across the Northern portion of the Navajo Reservation in Northern Arizona. Stopped to snap a photo of Navajo Mountain:
and talked briefly with an older British guy on a bicycle! He had been riding from Flagstaff for about a week and expected to get to page in another day and a half or so!
Continuing across the Rez I finally hit US 160 West of Kayenta. From there I went East and then at Kayenta turned North towards Monument Valley. I had been near Monument Valley several times before, and back in 2000, flew over it on the way to L.A. right at sunrise, but I had never been in it. The road to Monument Valley looked promising, with a large sandstone monument seeming to form a “gate” just outside of Kayenta.
From there it was about 20 miles to the monument and park itself. I had actually heard somewhere that you can’t go into Monument valley without a native guide, but that must have been old information. After paying the nominal entrance fee ($5) I was actually given a map and told where I could drive within the park.
Of course, Monument valley is a classic, iconic Western landscape familiar to movie goers or television watchers. Hell, I remember seeing Marlboro ads featuring Monument valley – in Germany! As with the other parts of the Red Rock desert that I visited, these photos really can’t do it justice – to be there and to be surrounded by this is truly magical.
After spending some time in the park, I continued northeast. Crossed the San Juan River at the odd little town of Mexican Hat, and just outside the town it became obvious where the name came from.
Continued below...