Cargo Trailer Aerodynamics

billiebob

Well-known member
SPEED !!

Speed is the killer in anything lacking areodynamics.
Keep the speed closer to 50mph than 70mph and you get a 50% boost in economy/range.
 

KIRBY

Member
The axle could be more forward if necessary, but I would need to drill new holes. Or, the 67" part of the deck could be further back, but it would need it's own rear sub frame. All of this is open until I get the trailer kit, and do a turning test.
 

KIRBY

Member
SPEED !!

Speed is the killer in anything lacking areodynamics.
Keep the speed closer to 50mph than 70mph and you get a 50% boost in economy/range.
Boy! I'd LOVE to, but we make so frequent bathroom stops our MapQuest 4 1/2 hour trips usually take us 7 hours.
 

KIRBY

Member
I’m confused as to why the overhang is “undesirable”? Those boxes are generally strong enough to overhang, they only mount on a couple of little crossbars on top of a car.
The rated cargo weight when mounted on crossbars is 100 lbs. I need full support under the carrier because I may be putting up to 300 pounds in the box.
 

KIRBY

Member
After further analysis, I'm redesigning to split the extra 19 inches before the trailer, and behind the trailer.
Here's the new drawings:
 

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dreadlocks

Well-known member
this was a route I had long thought about back when I was car camping, but instead this is the point in which I said fuckit and bought my space trailer, with extended tongue so I could get in the hatch and back up easier.. Aero was great, my diesel golf got 36mpg @ 75mph with trailer at 1200-1500#.. down only about 5-6mpg from w/out the trailer.
 
The rated cargo weight when mounted on crossbars is 100 lbs. I need full support under the carrier because I may be putting up to 300 pounds in the box.

Remember, load ratings are the "dynamic" load ratings; as in how much weight the roof can support in motion. So a Prius may not have the capability of loading 100+ pounds on the roof, but that doesn't mean the load bars and brackets can't meet that capacity. Load bars can carry more weight than what they say. If you're putting 300 pounds in a box, you probably only need 3 bars; 2 at the furthest extremes, and 1 in the middle.

I've seen racks carrying close, or exceeding capacity just with bikes. You put 3-4 MTB up there and tire carriers and bike racks, you're close to, if not over, 100 pounds.

But back on topic,

The V-nose is better if you're over the TV measurements.
 

KIRBY

Member
Mikey, I'm putting the carrier on a trailer towed in the aero shadow of the Prius. It's the Harbor Freight 40x48 utility trailer, and what I'm working with now is how short I can make the tongue, and still do full lock forward turns, and getting the right fore/aft balance. (This is an older drawing.The actual 48" trailer will have 9.5" extensions both fore and aft of the frame. see my drawings earlier in this thread)514727
 
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KIRBY

Member
I just realized I think I hijacked ITTOG's thread. I apologize. I thought this was a forum. I will create my own thread for anything further.
 

ITTOG

Well-known member
No worries. My topic wasn't getting any traffic anymore.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
 

dreadlocks

Well-known member
I towed at least 40k miles with my hatchback, compared to driving a truck that much fuel savings more than paid for the trailer.. never stayed at KOA's, mostly improved state campgrounds with a few dispersed sites mixed in.. cost me about $0.10 a mile TCO by the time I out grew it.. was a super economical way to travel the country and car camp, but we grew tired of the setup and tear down times.. 10lbs of ******** in a 5lb bag makes for alot of very precise packing.

another thing to look at if you just need a lil more cargo room is a motorcycle trailer, not for hauling motorcycles.. for towing with one, they will slipstream behind you fine, are super light and are turn key ready.

https://www.spacetrailers.com/ is what I had, kinda expensive but like I said.. FE savings more than paid for it.
 

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