I've got two trailer build that I'm working on. The first going to eventually be a legit offroad chase trailer, but I dont have the time, money, or resources to finish the build. Stay tuned my chase build another time.
My second trailer is a 10' long x 5' wide x 6' tall cargo trailer. I've moved a lot and I've been using it to haul my stuff around, but I wanted to start setting it up for relatively smooth, easy trips that require hauling a lot of gear. It's primarily going to be skiing, offroading, hunting and festivals - haul the gear, then sleep in the trailer. The goal was to maintain full length and cargo capacity while allowing for an easy change to living quarters. Some of the ideas that I did for this will be translated into my chase build.
Here are my basic modifications. Future mods will include an axle flip, adding windows, adding another section of roof rack, adding a retractable awning, and adding additional solar panels.
1. Brakes
I installed drum brakes with a break away controller from etrailer.
2. Tongue Box
I removed my home-made spare tire carrier from the a-frame tongue to make room for a cheep harbor freight tongue box. I relocated the tire to the front wall. I also attached a lockable jerry can to the box on one side, and the trailer breakaway controller to the other side.
3. Power
The tongue box houses a used deep cycle battery, a cheepo harbor freight power inverter hard wired to the battery, a solar charge controller, LED lights, and a home made switch/fuse panel with LED charge controller. I cut a hole in the side of the box and installed a sewer pipe that can be plugged, or opened. I attach an elbow to the sewer pipe for when I need to run lines in/out of the box to power the trailer from the battery/inverter, or charge the battery while maintaining a locked, weatherproof box. AC power is ported into the trailer using a weatherproof flush-mount power inlet. The battery can be charged from the roof solar panels, the truck alternator, or an AC charger.
4. External Lights - all run off the battery
LEDs inside the tongue box (controlled by switch in tongue box). 2 LED floods in the front (controlled by switch in trailer or tongue box). 2 LED floods in the rear (controlled by switch in trailer, tongue box, or from inside my truck). An LED porch light outside the side door (controlled from inside)
5. Internal Lights
2 LED overhead lights run off the battery and controlled from the inside. AC powered multicolored LED strip lighting. AC powered halogen flood light.
6. Shelving
Shelving made from scrap at the recycled building supply and a few new parts. Cabinet doors were used.
7. Sound
Head unit and 4 6.5" speakers build into the new shelf. Head unit receives constant power from the battery, but the ignition control wire is run through a switch so I can turn the head unit on and off. AUX and USB input with full ipod/ipad and pandora control
8. Internal control panel
LED light switches, an in-dash LED clock from the junk yard, and LED battery indicator. Made the switch plate from some cheep wood laminate I had laying around.
9. Roof Rack w/ Solar
Used ladder rack from the junk yard. 2 solar panels fixed to the roof rack.
10. Misc
Indoor/outdoor thermometer. Quartz heater to be run off of a generator. Flush mount backup camera; I hook the camera to the truck when I plug in the trailer wiring. I got a sweet little camera and monitor off amazon that has 2 inputs. When I put the truck in reverse the truck camera turns on, but when I flip the trailer backup light switch the trailer camera feed overrides the truck feed and comes on. Whole backup dual camera setup for $50.
My second trailer is a 10' long x 5' wide x 6' tall cargo trailer. I've moved a lot and I've been using it to haul my stuff around, but I wanted to start setting it up for relatively smooth, easy trips that require hauling a lot of gear. It's primarily going to be skiing, offroading, hunting and festivals - haul the gear, then sleep in the trailer. The goal was to maintain full length and cargo capacity while allowing for an easy change to living quarters. Some of the ideas that I did for this will be translated into my chase build.
Here are my basic modifications. Future mods will include an axle flip, adding windows, adding another section of roof rack, adding a retractable awning, and adding additional solar panels.
1. Brakes
I installed drum brakes with a break away controller from etrailer.
2. Tongue Box
I removed my home-made spare tire carrier from the a-frame tongue to make room for a cheep harbor freight tongue box. I relocated the tire to the front wall. I also attached a lockable jerry can to the box on one side, and the trailer breakaway controller to the other side.
3. Power
The tongue box houses a used deep cycle battery, a cheepo harbor freight power inverter hard wired to the battery, a solar charge controller, LED lights, and a home made switch/fuse panel with LED charge controller. I cut a hole in the side of the box and installed a sewer pipe that can be plugged, or opened. I attach an elbow to the sewer pipe for when I need to run lines in/out of the box to power the trailer from the battery/inverter, or charge the battery while maintaining a locked, weatherproof box. AC power is ported into the trailer using a weatherproof flush-mount power inlet. The battery can be charged from the roof solar panels, the truck alternator, or an AC charger.
4. External Lights - all run off the battery
LEDs inside the tongue box (controlled by switch in tongue box). 2 LED floods in the front (controlled by switch in trailer or tongue box). 2 LED floods in the rear (controlled by switch in trailer, tongue box, or from inside my truck). An LED porch light outside the side door (controlled from inside)
5. Internal Lights
2 LED overhead lights run off the battery and controlled from the inside. AC powered multicolored LED strip lighting. AC powered halogen flood light.
6. Shelving
Shelving made from scrap at the recycled building supply and a few new parts. Cabinet doors were used.
7. Sound
Head unit and 4 6.5" speakers build into the new shelf. Head unit receives constant power from the battery, but the ignition control wire is run through a switch so I can turn the head unit on and off. AUX and USB input with full ipod/ipad and pandora control
8. Internal control panel
LED light switches, an in-dash LED clock from the junk yard, and LED battery indicator. Made the switch plate from some cheep wood laminate I had laying around.
9. Roof Rack w/ Solar
Used ladder rack from the junk yard. 2 solar panels fixed to the roof rack.
10. Misc
Indoor/outdoor thermometer. Quartz heater to be run off of a generator. Flush mount backup camera; I hook the camera to the truck when I plug in the trailer wiring. I got a sweet little camera and monitor off amazon that has 2 inputs. When I put the truck in reverse the truck camera turns on, but when I flip the trailer backup light switch the trailer camera feed overrides the truck feed and comes on. Whole backup dual camera setup for $50.
Last edited: