Casper & Outono - 2x 1998 Discovery 1 Builds

Outono

Well-known member
The truck has been at the shop for the better part of 2 weeks now for a whole slew of things:
  • Ashcroft 4HP22 transmission w/ Stage 1 upgrade and high capacity sump
  • Rear main seal / cross seals
  • Gas tank leak
Due to the holidays, it's taking longer than normal, but there was no way I was going to tackle these things. Just don't have the space, the time, or really care to do it on my back. More on my truck next week when the vehicle is back in my hands...

Anyway, Black Friday has come and gone and this year I had my eye on a compressor. On my last trip, the air down / up process was a real chore. While it's easy, it takes forever and since it's not automated you end up spending a lot of time deflating / inflating, checking PSI, deflating / inflating, checking PSI - and so on. There has to be a better way.

Turns out, there is!

Compressors

There are a ton of compressors out there, most of which can inflate your tires one by one at decent speed. To do 4 tires, you'll probably finish up anywhere from 10 to 20 minutes, depending on your unit. ARB, Viair, and Extreme Outback are popular options, but they all operate roughly the same and push anywhere from 2 CFM to 6 CFM of air (with the latter reserved for the most expensive units).

Here's the thing, who wants to wait that long? All of these systems require you to constantly check the pressure as you air up; if you don't, you'll over or undershoot your target.

Why can't these things go faster? Turns out, the issue is the Schrader Valve on your tires.

As Morrflate puts it:

Regular tire valve stems (and most after market valve stems) use a valve core called a “Schrader Valve”. With the Schrader Valve still inside your tire’s valve stems, that makes an opening of roughly 1/16” (or smaller!). 1/16″ openings are only rated for about 1.8 to 2 CFM (cubic feet per minute) of air flow at 20 psi (now, that CFM rating goes up as you “push” with more pressure, such as a CO2 tank, or a pressurized on board air tank, and it goes down as far as .8 CFM at 0 psi). By running straight off of a compressor with no tank in the mix, your tires can only really accept about 2 CFM of air flow at a time. So, by using other popular compressors on the market that flow 5.65 CFM or 6.2 CFM, and doing 1 tire at a time, you aren’t able to get the full use and output of those compressors due to the bottleneck of air flow at your tire’s valve stem. The “useable CFM” while doing 1 tire at a time is really only 2-3 CFM for the pressures that we run in tires while off roading. That means that not only are you not getting the best efficiency from your compressor, but you are creating a backlog of pressure on your compressor, making it work harder, and possibly fail prematurely.

So I have a couple options here:
  • Get an onboard tank w/ ARB Dual (not enough space on the Disco)
  • Carry a CO2 tank (cool, but I don't want to keep refilling)
There's also a 3rd option: inflate / deflate all 4 tires simultaneously with a high output compressor. This would cut down the total amount of time for the task.

After a bit of searching, I came across a 10.6 CFM high output compressor with digital pressure control, which allows you to set and forget your desired PSI. Here is how Morrflate describes the system:

"By combining the air flow from 4 tires at the same time, we can theoretically make use of a full 8-12 CFM of air flow without creating any bottlenecks or back pressures on your compressor. Which is why we have designed and come out with a compressor that pushes a monstrous 10.6 CFM! Thus making use of the “useable” air flow for airing up off road vehicles! Compared to a 6.2 CFM compressor on a single tire, you wont see just a 58% decrease in air up times, you should see a theoretical 300-400% decrease in air up times!"

There is a single OEM supplying these units to 3 main brands: EZ Flate (UT), Morrflate (CA), and Thors Lightning (CO). All 3 systems are essentially identical so you're not going to get anything special from either, other than maybe a couple of extra components and better service.

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What I love about these systems is that they make airing up an absolute breeze and allow you to wrap everything up in under 5 minutes. Simply connect the tubing to your tires, set the compressor to your desired PSI, and off it goes. You don't need to watch the system or check pressure every minute or so; the compressor will turn itself off once its done. That's the beauty of the digital pressure gauge!

Each brand's kit comes with tubing for 4 tires, as well as a manifold (more on that below). I ended up going with the Thors Lightning simply because it had the cheapest total price this week (sale is still going), but im using Morrflate tubing since I like the way they assembled it.

As for the manifold, well let me tell you about that...

Air Manifold

All 3 of these brands build the exact same manifolds, exactly as you see below:

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The left and right connectors attach to your left and right tubing, while the bottom connector attaches to the compressor. The green sleeve on the bottom connector slides up and down to allow air to pass in or out of the manifold.

While its a slick little manifold, it's missing something: the ability to accurately and automatically deflate and equalize pressure across all 4 tires simultaneously. I've automated the inflate, now I want to do the same for the deflate.

In my research, I came across a 4th company that competed in this space for a while, but appears to be exiting the market. They're called Desert Armor (AZ) and they sell the previous generation compressors that lack the digital pressure gauge for automatic inflate. What they do have that all the others don't is a novel little manifold with deflate pressure control.

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While it's not a looker, it allows you to set an air down PSI using the pressure relief valve on the bottom left of the manifold. That means once its set, you simply turn the red valve and all 4 tires will deflate to the exact PSI you set on the regulator. No more constantly checking your gauge like the old days!

So here's the thing, im a sucker for aesthetics and I also felt like this particular unit could use better parts. For one, I prefer an analog gauge over a digital one. I also don't like the turning valves compared to the valve slides from Morrflate, even if the turning valves give you a bit more control.

So today, I built my own manifold with a few nice upgrades.

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  • Almost every piece is made in the USA
  • The valve slides are supplied by Morrflate
  • Pressure relief valve (middle right) is quickly adjustable and accurate
  • Gauge is high accuracy (the bubbles are from the glycerin inside)
All in, it cost me about $80 to build. With this unit, I can set a PSI to inflate and deflate automatically. No longer will I need to check pressures over and over and sit around working tire by tire.

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Air hoses come into the side connectors. When deflating, you'd slide the middle right valve up (open), while keeping the middle left valve down (closed).

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When the air hose is connected (red), you'd slide the middle left valve up (open) and the middle right valve down (closed).

If you're come this far, thanks for reading! I hope this helps some of you with your air up / down needs. To me, this is the best possible solution short of a more complex on-board air solution that probably wouldn't fit easily on a Disco 1. I've still not tested this thing yet so fingers crossed it works...

UPDATE: There is another company now selling these for a crazy low price: $199! If I could do it again, i'd pick up this unit from AllTop.
 
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Outono

Well-known member
Another month and lots of updates, including some I completed back in the Fall.

First up, the upgraded Ashcroft Transfer Case w/ ATB and sleeved casing. This thing is a beast. I installed it about 3 months ago and it has performed flawlessly since. I can't say i've noticed a difference with the ATB yet, but there is considerably less slop in the driveline now. Worth the cost? Absolutely.

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Can't get an Ashcroft T-Case without an upgraded Ashcroft transmission! For the transmission, I upgraded the B & C clutches (Stage 1) and added the larger sump for better cooling. I wanted to do a Stage 2, but it requires the 4HP24 bellhousing, which just won't work for my truck.

The belly on this beast is quite large, which means the frame brace won't fit without modification. Fortunately, Ed @ IE Rovers made me just that months ago! Like the T-Case, there isn't a difference in performance, but it shifts like a dream. Definitely worth the investment.

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What else? I finally installed my X-Deflex quick disconnect rear sway bar from Foundry4x4. This thing is beautiful and makes a noticeable difference in handling, even when unladen. I wouldn't say it was worth the crazy amount I paid for shipping from the UK, but I am glad I have it.

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The hub here is how you disconnect. Turn it to 4x4 to lock, 4x2 to unlock. All of these bits are easily swappable since they're all LR parts!

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On my last trip to Anza Borrego, my fully loaded vehicle began to sag. As much as I love those King springs, they just don't have the load carrying capacity I need for my longer trips. So begrudgingly, I picked up a set of RTE 2" springs to replace the King set. The RTEs have given me an additional 0.5" of lift and a much stiffer ride, but perform better when heavily laden. I still prefer the comfort of the King springs, but the RTEs are absolutely the right choice for the way I like to camp. Combined with my Koni shocks, I think this is quite the killer combo.

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You can see the difference here. While the King springs look much longer, they're also much more pliant so they compress quickly (they're tapered wire progressive, after all).

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Last but not least, I found a killer deal on a used RTE front bumper that I couldn't pass up. It's a bit rusty and it has been painted with POR15, but my plan is to drop it off at the powder coating shop tomorrow for a strip, clean, and new coat. This thing is going to look great on the truck. If anyone is interested, i'll be selling my Safari Gard + front skid in the coming month.

Why the change? I prefer the lines of the RTE over the new Safari Gard. If I could find an original SG, i'd go with that, but those are impossible to track down these days.

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As always, there is more to be done. I've got the entire interior to sound proof and rebuild. I also have new seals all around that need to be installed, as well as upgraded coils, wires, plugs, and injectors. Im not sure the GEMS system will play nicely with that stuff, but it's worth the attempt.
 
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Outono

Well-known member
Heck of an update! Any idea whether the Safari Guard would fit my D2?
Mine should fit a D2 since it’s a new model (built by the resurrected Safari Gard). The new owner modified the original design slightly so one bar could fit both vehicles.
 

YetiX

Active member
Mine should fit a D2 since it’s a new model (built by the resurrected Safari Gard). The new owner modified the original design slightly so one bar could fit both vehicles.
I'll check with the boss, but we may need to chat...
 

Outono

Well-known member
The RTE is back and it looks great! When I received the bumper, it had been half painted over with POR15, which made it look pretty worn out. I had it stripped and re-coated last week to make it appear brand new.

If I could do it again, I would have spent the extra cash to refinish the metal (removing the divots from surface rust), but at that point the total cost would have approached buying a whole new bumper...

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What I like most about this bumper is the approach angle. There's quite a bit more room up front than the Safari Gard. It also has a lines that I appreciate more. Despite very similar dimensions, the RTE weighs maybe 30% more, but it’s a full boxed design.

While installing, I noticed the bolt holes holding the bumper onto the frame were beginning to round. I was using the OEM bolts on the Safari Gard so this was really surprising and a bit worrisome. I've purchased all new hardware for the RTE and I think i've got it tightened down really well, but if this keeps up I may need to consider other options. Unfortunately, you can't fit larger bolts so my guess is I just didn't have one side torqued down enough.

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The Safari Gard is now for sale so hit me up if you're interested.
 
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Outono

Well-known member
In an effort to get some better visibility around the truck, I picked up a Wolfbox 10" rear view mirror last week. This thing is great: for $130 you get front and rear recording cameras and the install couldn't be easier. Don't want the cameras? Just turn it off and the thing acts as a normal mirror.

So why the 10" and not the 12"? Personally, the 12" just feels too big. I wanted to keep the mirror to as close to OEM dimensions as possible. While it clips on for now, i'll eventually remove the original mirror and mount the Wolfbox with some RAM accessories.

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The overlays are pretty cool, giving you a heading and your speed, along with parking lines when you're in reverse.

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I tucked the rear camera through a small opening underneath the rear door handle. Nice and clean.

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To turn the rear camera on when in reverse, I simply tapped the Green / Brown wire on my passenger rear side (i.e. reverse bulb).

There may be some more interesting news to come this evening...
 
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Outono

Well-known member
Update #2: so I bought another project...

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Just kidding. Sort of. Really, this is a parts truck to complete Outono. I found this vehicle listed up in LA last night and the seller was dead set on getting rid of it ASAP. It's not in good enough shape to flip, but it's got some great parts that are just screaming to be on my truck (or sold to other Disco fanatics).

It's a 1998 LSE in blue. It's an East Coast truck so there is some body rust, including a hole near the edge of the interior of the door. The truck has a bad starter, but recently had a top end rebuild. Allegedly the transmission is going bad, but I have no way to verify that since the truck isn't running right now. With just 137,000 miles I find it hard to believe the transmission has a problem unless it was left to run dry.

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So what's good? Well, it has a new headliner for one, which is something i've been needing. It also has 5x Method wheels with nearly new 265/75R16 BFG KO2 tires. I mean, they literally have 5,000 miles on them. Oh, and a brand new ARB Sahara bull bar with Hella lights.

So the plan moving forward:
  • Sell the wheels and tires. I'd keep them, but I like my Toyos more and the stock alloys.
  • Sell the ARB bumper. I already have a Safari Gard for sale and an RTE on the truck.
  • Swap the headliner into my vehicle, along with any other quality interior bits.
  • Swap any other mechanical and engine parts over to mine that are worthwhile.
Once done, im going to sell it to LKQ. I thought about flipping the truck, but I just dont have the time or desire to go through that again. Not to mention used car prices are plummeting (I can't even sell my awesome Safari Gard and Safety Devices bar work) and there is a very real rust hole on the body.

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If you're looking for some D1 parts, lemme know! In the meantime, I need a name for ol Blue here...
 

rover109

New member
I'm looking for clean door cards for my 97 Disco. Mine are sun burned on the top. I know it is a long shot but I had to ask.
 

Outono

Well-known member
I'm looking for clean door cards for my 97 Disco. Mine are sun burned on the top. I know it is a long shot but I had to ask.
Unfortunately, only the back doors are in great shape. The fronts have the same burned tops as so many others do.
 

Outono

Well-known member
Well, the second project vehicle's disassembly is slowly moving along. On Friday, I sold off the wheels and tires after spending an hour replacing the starter and getting the thing moving! I was thinking that i'd maybe try to sell the whole truck once im done with it since it runs so well, but it's already failing catalyst and evap tests, which means it needs some work that I am just unwilling to do.

Next week, i'll pull and sell the ARB bumper and move the headliner into my vehicle.

So what about Outono? It's got a new tailgate table from Golden Rovers!

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I snagged one of the first 5 units from Daniel when they went on sale last week. The thing is just beautifully designed: stainless steel all around, extra large tray, and simple install. I felt the price is fair given the quality of the unit, but I wouldn't say it's a cheap add on (about $350).

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Installation is very straight forward. You'll need to remove all of the rubber / plastic inserts used by the OEM tailgate trim and then drill them out with a 9mm bit to fit rivet nuts. I managed to mangle a few of these nuts during install because I used a cheap "automatic" tool that connects to your drill. Don't do what I did. Dremeling out the bad nuts is a giant pain, especially when a manual tool will make short work of these so just do it right from the start.

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The tray folds up nicely and is held very tightly with the clips on the side. A couple of rubber spacers help keep the whole thing stable and quiet when you're driving. I wouldn't say its totally silent, but I was impressed by just how little rattling I heard.

The only concern I have is the thickness of the tray. Mine became a little warped in shipping and I am not totally sure it will remain in its current shape over years of use. Daniel, the owner, has been great to work with and is very responsive so if something does end up happening I am sure he will make it right.
 

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