Chainsaw and bolt cutters?
- Thread starter roboter
- Start date
Antichrist
Expedition Leader
Yeah, they could be useful, but their features are covered by other tools I carry anyway, and I wouldn't substitute them from my others.
frans
Adventurer
Not that I cut locks all the time but... Any lock can be broken fairly easily by simply using a propane torch to heat it up until the temper is lost then smashing it with a hammer to brake it open.
I really respect peoples property rights and don't go through locked gates or even drive off marked trails. I guess there is a possible scenario where I must go through some kind of locked gate but it would have to be some kind of very odd and unusual situation like someone locked a gate behind me and I needed to get back out. But that has never happened to me. Side cutters, dikes, hacksaw, fencing pliers etc. is all I have ever really needed to cut stuff like wire picked up from the trail.
I really respect peoples property rights and don't go through locked gates or even drive off marked trails. I guess there is a possible scenario where I must go through some kind of locked gate but it would have to be some kind of very odd and unusual situation like someone locked a gate behind me and I needed to get back out. But that has never happened to me. Side cutters, dikes, hacksaw, fencing pliers etc. is all I have ever really needed to cut stuff like wire picked up from the trail.
WCO
It's Lil' Willi
I agree with squatchout......fencing pliers can be very akward to use at first, but it is absolutely amazing the amount of things you can use them for. I've stretched miles and miles of fence over the last 10 years, and have had the same pair of pliers, they reside in my drivers side door pocket. The pry bar end can be used to shatter safety class, they have nips, pinchers, cutters, a hammer, and can be used for twisting/stretching/pulling/prying....the list can go on. These are the ones I recommend: http://www.channellock.com/85-Fence-Tool.aspx I've used a few different brands and have always gone back to these....
As for a chainsaw, when heading into heavily wooded country, and you have the room, you bet. But for expedition travel, an axe and hand saw are really all you'll need. Because you are not only carrying a chainsaw, you're carrying extra chains, an extra bar if your smart, bar oil, fuel mix, PLUS fuel, probably a file or too to touch up chains, a saw tool, and it's one more mechanical piece of equipment that can go wrong when you need it. I carry a saw with me all the time as I have plenty of room, but I still carry an axe and hand saw.....just my 2 cents
As for a chainsaw, when heading into heavily wooded country, and you have the room, you bet. But for expedition travel, an axe and hand saw are really all you'll need. Because you are not only carrying a chainsaw, you're carrying extra chains, an extra bar if your smart, bar oil, fuel mix, PLUS fuel, probably a file or too to touch up chains, a saw tool, and it's one more mechanical piece of equipment that can go wrong when you need it. I carry a saw with me all the time as I have plenty of room, but I still carry an axe and hand saw.....just my 2 cents
Hill Bill E.
Oath Keeper
Bolt cutters, nope. I carry a pair of Klein lineman pliers, always in my tool bag.
Chainsaw? 90% of the time, I have my saw with me. But that's because of where I live.
The only way the trails and minimum maintenance roads stay open up north, is by folks using them, and keeping them clear.
People driving around a downed tree, and in the process making a new trail/wider trail, is a pet peeve of mine.
Remove the obstacle, go over it, or turn back. (ETA: making trails wider/going off the trail, is what gets them closed around here. Please 'Stay the Trail')
And it's not unusual to come across blowdowns in the 16-20" diameter on any of the FS roads.
Now, when I head out for Utah, the Husqvarna stays home, and the axe and bow saw go with.
Chainsaw? 90% of the time, I have my saw with me. But that's because of where I live.
The only way the trails and minimum maintenance roads stay open up north, is by folks using them, and keeping them clear.
People driving around a downed tree, and in the process making a new trail/wider trail, is a pet peeve of mine.
Remove the obstacle, go over it, or turn back. (ETA: making trails wider/going off the trail, is what gets them closed around here. Please 'Stay the Trail')
And it's not unusual to come across blowdowns in the 16-20" diameter on any of the FS roads.
Now, when I head out for Utah, the Husqvarna stays home, and the axe and bow saw go with.
Buliwyf
Viking with a Hammer
Chainsaw is a good idea. So is an axe, shovel,and some 4x4 chunks of wood.
Bolt cutter are considered "criminal tools" in some areas. As said above, fence cutting is emergency only.
A Leatherman will cut right through all wire types of fence and barbed wire. Just clamp the wire in the round circle part of the pliers and gently spin the wire, you'll have to bend it to get some leverage. Great for making a pot holder out of coat hangers for your Pepsi can stove.
I use a G31 size optima battery for my aux buss in my truck. Optimas can't explode. An Optima and some good jumper cables, with thier jaws cut to fit the round bar of the lock, will melt right through the lock silently. The key is to make sure your cables and jaws will flow more current than the lock, otherwise your cables will melt instead. Use battery clamps on one end, and make custom spring loaded jaws for the other. Use at least 2G cable. Beside real hefty, custom homemade cables are a ton better for jumpstarting folks anyways. (Note: Science is fun, but this idea is stupid, don't try this)
Your axe will wack a lock off in short order as well.
Gates that aren't chained together can be disassembled with a 13mm wrench. Gates with the fork that get pad locked in place can be bent open. Just bend the fork. Electric gates can be activated by "fishing" your shovel under the other side to activate the other sides metal sensor.
Try to repair the fence, gate, whatever after you pass through. Nooone will notice that you did anything that way, and you'll stay out of trouble.
If you find a fence that's been blown down in a storm, and you clean it up. If it had razor wire or barbed wire leave it there. DO NOT THROW IT IN YOUR TRUCK SO YOU CAN DISPOSE OF IT LATER. Enviro Nazi's have been stringing up razor wire to hurt 4 wheelers and dirtbike riders. Oddly enough they set those traps on legal trails, not the illegal trails dummer riders use/make in parks. If a bunch of riders catch you with razor wire, you best run. Run fast. 800 feet per second fast.
Bolt cutter are considered "criminal tools" in some areas. As said above, fence cutting is emergency only.
A Leatherman will cut right through all wire types of fence and barbed wire. Just clamp the wire in the round circle part of the pliers and gently spin the wire, you'll have to bend it to get some leverage. Great for making a pot holder out of coat hangers for your Pepsi can stove.
I use a G31 size optima battery for my aux buss in my truck. Optimas can't explode. An Optima and some good jumper cables, with thier jaws cut to fit the round bar of the lock, will melt right through the lock silently. The key is to make sure your cables and jaws will flow more current than the lock, otherwise your cables will melt instead. Use battery clamps on one end, and make custom spring loaded jaws for the other. Use at least 2G cable. Beside real hefty, custom homemade cables are a ton better for jumpstarting folks anyways. (Note: Science is fun, but this idea is stupid, don't try this)
Your axe will wack a lock off in short order as well.
Gates that aren't chained together can be disassembled with a 13mm wrench. Gates with the fork that get pad locked in place can be bent open. Just bend the fork. Electric gates can be activated by "fishing" your shovel under the other side to activate the other sides metal sensor.
Try to repair the fence, gate, whatever after you pass through. Nooone will notice that you did anything that way, and you'll stay out of trouble.
If you find a fence that's been blown down in a storm, and you clean it up. If it had razor wire or barbed wire leave it there. DO NOT THROW IT IN YOUR TRUCK SO YOU CAN DISPOSE OF IT LATER. Enviro Nazi's have been stringing up razor wire to hurt 4 wheelers and dirtbike riders. Oddly enough they set those traps on legal trails, not the illegal trails dummer riders use/make in parks. If a bunch of riders catch you with razor wire, you best run. Run fast. 800 feet per second fast.
Last edited:
I'm an arborist and I do love my Husky chainsaws! Unless I was traveling in a heavily wooded area I would get a good handsaw.
The saws that arbos turn to when they don't want a gasser are Silky. they will cut faster than a chainsaw in some situations. Besides, they are a bit safer too!
The saw that travels in my van and goes camping with me is the Sugoi:
http://www.silkysaws.com/Silky_Saws/Curved_2/Silky-Sugoi-420-XL-teeth
Be VERY careful of these saws! They cut on the pull stroke which is very different than most people are used to. Keep your off hand VERY far away!!! I can't emphasize this enough. There are many people who have cut tendons on the back of their off hand when the Silky jumps out of the cut.
They can be sharpened but not very easily since the cutting edge is hardened.
Tom
The saws that arbos turn to when they don't want a gasser are Silky. they will cut faster than a chainsaw in some situations. Besides, they are a bit safer too!
The saw that travels in my van and goes camping with me is the Sugoi:
http://www.silkysaws.com/Silky_Saws/Curved_2/Silky-Sugoi-420-XL-teeth
Be VERY careful of these saws! They cut on the pull stroke which is very different than most people are used to. Keep your off hand VERY far away!!! I can't emphasize this enough. There are many people who have cut tendons on the back of their off hand when the Silky jumps out of the cut.
They can be sharpened but not very easily since the cutting edge is hardened.
Tom
Similar threads
