Chevy AWD

boardrider247

Weekend warrior anarchist
As this thread was the de facto GM Awd lift thread when doing my research I would like to contribute my findings so far.
I installed the rough country leveling kit 283N2
http://www.roughcountry.com/gm-leveling-lift-kit-283n2.html

Everything fit as it should except the rear shocks. The shocks included in the kit have eyelets on both ends. The stock shocks have a bar style attachment on the upper mounting point. So to correct this I made this adapter.

Untitled by boardrider247, on Flickr

Total lift with the adjuster bolts in front set to the same spot is:
2" lift in front
3" lift in rear


Untitled by boardrider247, on Flickr


I believe this is currently the cheapest way to lift a full size GM awd van at $200 for everything.
I will update this post with ride details after I put some miles on the van. But so far I am happy with the results.
There is still some adjustment in the front adjuster bolts on my van so I may try to bring the front end up some more yet.
 
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freako

New member
2009 Chevy Express lift

I'm new to this forum as I just bought a 2009 Chevy Express AWD. Had a Ford E150 previously and found this gem in Denver. It was a fleet vehicle and well taken care of it seems. Here is a picture. I painted the rims with Krylon Satin Fusion paint (17" rims it came with) myself and would like a 2" lift and it would still fit in my garage. The van is super clean and pulls our 17' Wolf Pup camper just fine. Love it so far.
freako
 

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bknudtsen

Expedition Leader
I'm new to this forum as I just bought a 2009 Chevy Express AWD. Had a Ford E150 previously and found this gem in Denver. It was a fleet vehicle and well taken care of it seems. Here is a picture. I painted the rims with Krylon Satin Fusion paint (17" rims it came with) myself and would like a 2" lift and it would still fit in my garage. The van is super clean and pulls our 17' Wolf Pup camper just fine. Love it so far.
freako

That's a good looking van! Welcome.
 

Michaeldinpc

New member
Just wanted to thank everyone for there input on a great thread! I bought my AWD Express van with a 100k Dec. 2012. Have had great luck so far! I LOVE IT! 30k miles on it so far and other than regular maintenance I've only recently had to put new tie rod ends, 1- wheel hub, and 1- O2 sensor. While wrenching on all that I noticed a small oil leak at the balancer pulley / timing chain seal so a new oil pump, timing chain, and possibly a cam are in my near future....

After the front end work I threw on some 265/75/16 Yokahama LT AT's They do NOT rub while driving on the street. They do however rub when playing off road. I took the little guy out and set him on my lap for his first time behind the wheel. Good Times!! I'm on my way out to crank up the front end with the factory torsion keys. I will try to remember to update here on the tire rub and ride quality afterwards.

View attachment 210961View attachment 210962
 

86cj

Explorer
More AWD 1500 lift info

This seems to be the Portal AWD 1/2 ton Lift thread so I am posting my info accordingly................
.
So it's time to get some ground clearance under the Van before camping season starts again. After living with the AWD 1500 Passenger van for a while now I have some observations and thoughts about the suspension. When the Van was new and empty the rear bump stops had a couple of inches of clearance and the van did rock side to side on certain road conditions, noticeable but not a big deal (the Van has no rear sway bar). The Van now has a heavier constant weight with a basic interior, that puts the big progressive bump stops at about a 1/2” clearance. The Van handles better now even though it's heavier, due to the rear bump stops acting as a sway bar and eliminating body roll. The thing handles the twisty two lanes way better than most would expect, even at GVW. Which is why I am going to try not to screw up the excellent road manners the Van has stock when I lift it. I feel like GM relied too much on the rear bump stops for spring rate and when lifted off them, more spring will be needed or at least a sway bar and very good shocks.
.
The rear springs are way too soft 2240lb capacity, riding the bump stops (is no way to go thru life) even if handles good, it rides great on small bumps not so good on big ones. I found some 2900lb 92-99 3/4 ton suburban springs #22-907 that I may try, http://www.dallasspring.com/publications/GMLD.pdf A 3/4 ton van spring jumps way up to a 3700lb capacity and has much less arch, the suburban spring is almost identical in specs and gives about a 1” lift just due to the spring pack thickness, the 2900lb springs may not offer much lift at fully loaded weight but should offer better weight control. I will then use lift blocks to set rear height. I am told a 2007-2013 GM 4x4 1500 Pickup stock rear 1 1/8” lift block will fit our vans, they have the nice anti-rotation tangs cast in and cost around $20, A 1 7/8” 1999-2006 and up block may be too much for now. I am guessing after the Van has some rear bump stop clearance again, a rear sway bar will be needed to match the good handling I have become used to. I do like air bags and have many sets in use now but the Van has had an increase in constant weight so I want to spring for that and maybe use air bags later for fine tuning.
.
The passenger van has much better shocks than the cargo van, I suspect the Van Conversion companies made GM tune them to a higher level than they are normally willing to achieve, it's too bad they are too short. I talked to Bilstein about rear shocks and found out that Van shocks are valved very stiff to deal with all that mass swaying around and prevent porpoising on Hwy expansion joints. I also found out a 4600 series 3/4- 1 ton van shock #24-025706 is 23.23” extended 14.80” collapsed and valved at 389-73 vs. #24-024815 1/2 ton van replacement rear shock that is 20.89 Ext and 13.29 collapsed valved at 361-68. So a 3/4-1 ton van replacement shock is valved close and is a 2.34” longer shock for a stock 1/2 ton AWD Van. The 5100 series rear shock #24-185615 looks good it is 26.2 ext and 16.81collapsed but valved at 287-77, which Bilstein says will not be effective on a heavy van and could be to long for my lift at 3.5” longer collapsed and could require extending the bump stop down to prevent shock damage (back to first base). 92-99 GM pickup, Suburban and Tahoe shocks will bolt on, unlike the 99-06 Pickup rear shock everybody tried to put on these AWD 1/2 ton vans and the 92-99 shocks are longer, with a 2dr 4WD Tahoe shock being slightly longer yet at about 25” ext. ALL OF THESE SHOCKS ARE VALVED VERY LIGHT FOR A VAN 150-230 vs 389 and 50-60 vs 60-73 Bilstein will not recommend any shock for a non stock application and said minor valving changes do make a difference, they did say they will re-valve their 4600 and 5100 shock if you sent it to them, I got the impression you have to provide valving numbers?
.
Bilstein does not make a front replacement shock for our AWD 1500 Van so stock lengths and valving were not available to compare, we all know 4600 HD series # 24-065009 a 99'-06' GM Pickup, Suburban, Tahoe front shock will bolt on and is the exact length needed for a stock height van, 15.43 Ext. and 10.09 collapsed, valving is 292-119 is the valving correct for a van? Bilstein would not comment, the front weight balance of the Van is certainly much different than a pickup, I am at GVW front and 200lb under rear when loaded for a week in the bush. The 5100 series #24-186643 front lift shock 99-06 PU etc.. is 16.3” ext and 12.54” collapsed, which could be too tall collapsed for some people without enough lift, the valving change is huge at 366-240 vs 292-119, the ride has to be affected which I think Brian observed when he said he did not like Bilsteins ride. My plan is to crank what I can into the front, 1” or so and see if the front shocks top out and the ride is terrible, if so then shock extensions or 99-06 1/2 ton front lift keys and longer 5100 series # 24-186643 front shocks will be used. I have never lifted a rack and pinion steering front end and love the steering feel it provides stock. I am not 100% sold on 3” front lift keys not having any bumpsteer and weak GM ball joint wear issues, been there done both over and over. I was told by Bilstein 4600 HD and 5100 is the same shock except body material and 5100 is usually much softer than a 4600 HD. I am a big fan of Bilstein and have good reason, I have used most of the usual brand shocks and have had minor success with them all and have had excellent performance that lasted 100,000 miles or more from every Bilstein, I do prefer a tight controlled ride and they usually deliver that on all surfaces.
.
I almost ordered 3/4 ton Suburban rear shocks thinking close enough, suburbans are big and heavy and they bolt up, Wrong. This is what motivated me to ramble on so very long.............
Bilstein wants you to use the 5125 series for custom applications, they will not have proper top mounting type for our vans. Custom shock adapters work but are not the best choice. The best choice may be to find the right length 92-99 Pickup/ Suburban shock for your lift and have the valving changed by Bilstein. They talk in a type of code “like that shock won't work but I can't legally tell you what other shock will” you have to keep hitting them with part numbers and they will give the spec only, not a blessing. I waded into this mess and thought I might save some people from starting from scratch, I may not have 100% accuracy but gave it my best shot so add your data accordingly.
 
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BajaSportsmobile

Baja Ironman
In a perfect world, what extended and collapsed lengths do you need? The real determining factor is the collapsed length because if to long you will be losing bump travel and bottoming on the shock. So once you know what collapsed length for your specific setup you can look for the longest extended length with an acceptable collapsed length.

This seems to be the Portal AWD Lift thread so I am posting my info accordingly................
.
So it's time to get some ground clearance under the Van before camping season starts again, after living with the AWD 1500 Passenger van for a while now I have some observations and thoughts about the suspension. When the Van was new and empty the rear bump stops had a couple of inches of clearance and the van did rock side to side on certain road conditions, noticeable but not a big deal (the Van has no rear sway bar). The Van now has a heavier constant weight with a basic interior that puts the big progressive bump stops at about a 1/2” clearance. The Van handles better now even though it's heavier, due to the rear bump stops acting as a sway bar and eliminating body roll, the thing handles the twisty two lanes way better than most would expect even at GVW. Which is why I am going to try not to screw up the excellent road manners the Van has stock when I lift it. I feel like GM relied too much on the rear bump stops for spring rate and when lifted off them more spring will be needed or at least a sway bar and very good shocks.
.
The rear springs are way too soft 2240lb capacity, riding the bump stops (is no way to go thru life) even if handles good, it rides great on small bumps not so good on big ones. I found some 2900lb 92-99 3/4 ton suburban springs that I may try, a 3/4 ton van spring jumps way up to a 3700lb capacity and has much less arch, the suburban spring is almost identical in specs and gives about a 1” lift just due to the spring pack thickness, the 2900lb springs may not offer much lift at fully loaded weight but should offer better weight control. I will then use lift blocks to set rear height, I am told a factory mid 2000's GM Pickup 1.25” lift block will fit our vans and they have the nice anti-rotation tangs cast in, 2” block may be too much. I am guessing after the Van has some rear bump stop clearance again, a rear sway bar will be needed to match the good handling I have become used to. I do like air bags and have many sets in use now but the Van has had an increase in constant weight so I want to spring for that and maybe use air bags later for fine tuning.
.
The passenger van has much better shocks than the cargo van, I suspect the Van Conversion companies made GM tune them to a higher level than they are normally willing to achieve, it's too bad they are too short. I talked to Bilstein about rear shocks and found out that Van shocks are valved very stiff to deal with all that mass swaying around and prevent porpoising on Hwy expansion joints. I also found out a 4600 series HD 3/4- 1 ton van shock #24-025706 is 23.23” extended 14.80” collapsed and valved at 389-73 vs. #24-024815 1/2 ton replacement rear shock that is 20.89 Ext and 13.29 collapsed valved at 361-68. So a 3/4-1 ton van replacement shock is valved close and is a 2.34” longer shock for a 1/2 ton AWD. The 5100 series rear shock #24-185615 looks good it is 26.2 ext and 16.81collapsed but valved at 287-77, which Bilstein says will not be effective on a heavy van and could be to long for my lift at 3.5” longer collapsed and could require extending the bump stop down to prevent shock damage (back to first base). 92-99 GM pickup, Suburban and Tahoe shocks will bolt on, unlike the 99-06 Pickup rear shock everybody tried to put on these AWD 1/2 ton vans and the 92-99 shocks are longer, with a 2dr 4WD Tahoe shock being slightly longer yet at about 25” ext. ALL OF THESE SHOCKS ARE VALVED VERY LIGHT FOR A VAN 150-230 vs 389 and 50-60 vs 60-73 Bilstein will not recommend any shock for a non stock application and said minor valving changes do make a difference, they did say they will re-valve their 4600 and 5100 shock if you sent it to them, I got the impression you have to provide valving numbers?
.
Bilstein does not make a front replacement shock for our AWD 1500 Van so stock lengths and valving were not available to compare, we all know 4600 HD series # 24-065009 a 99'-06' GM Pickup, Suburban, Tahoe front shock will bolt on and is the exact length needed for a stock height van, 15.43 Ext. and 10.09 collapsed, valving is 292-119 is the valving correct for a van? Bilstein would not comment, the front weight balance of the Van is certainly much different than a pickup, I am at GVW front and 200lb under rear when loaded for a week in the bush. The 5100 series #24-186643 front lift shock 99-06 PU etc.. is 16.3” ext and 12.54” collapsed, which could be too tall collapsed for some people without enough lift, the valving change is huge at 366-240 vs 292-119, the ride has to be affected which I think Brian observed when he said he did not like Bilsteins ride. My plan is to crank what I can into the front, 1” or so and see if the front shocks top out and the ride is terrible, if so then shock extensions or 99-06 1/2 ton front lift keys and longer 5100 series # 24-186643 front shocks will be used. I have never lifted a rack and pinion steering front end and love the steering feel it provides stock. I am not 100% sold on 3” front lift keys not having any bumpsteer and weak GM ball joint wear issues, been there done both over and over. I was told by Bilstein 4600 HD and 5100 is the same shock except body material and 5100 is usually much softer than a 4600 HD. I am a big fan of Bilstein and have good reason, I have used most of the usual brand shocks and have had minor success with them all and have had excellent performance that lasted 100,000 miles or more from every Bilstein, I do prefer a tight controlled ride and they usually deliver that on all surfaces.
.
I almost ordered 3/4 ton Suburban rear shocks thinking close enough, suburbans are big and heavy and they bolt up, Wrong. This is what motivated me to ramble on so very long. Bilstein wants you to use the 5125 series for custom applications, they will not have proper top mounting type for our vans. Custom shock adapters work but are not the best choice. The best choice may be to find the right length 92-99 Pickup/ Suburban shock for your lift and have the valving changed by Bilstein. They talk in a type of code “like that shock won't work but I can't legally tell you what other shock will” you have to keep hitting them with part numbers and they will give the spec only, not a blessing. I waded into this mess and thought I might save some people from starting from scratch, I may not have 100% accuracy but gave it my best shot so add your data accordingly.
 

boardrider247

Weekend warrior anarchist
86cj, thanks for the info.
I know that when I purchased my rough country lift kit I fully planned on buying different shocks at a later date as I didn't trust the cheapo rough country shocks. If you find something that works well let us know Id be game to try it (especially a proper bilstein)
So far the rough country shocks have been fine. Although I haven't put many miles on my van since the lift.

A couple points to bring up about handling.
Tires, by far the biggest difference in handling and ride quality on my van was switching to load range E tires. Small bump ride has suffered but the van feels much better planted to the road. Less squish in the sidewalls also makes for less overall roll in the corners.

Interiors, this is where it gets hard to determine what is the right shock for each specific van. Most everyone here has done some sort of camping friendly modification to the interior of their van. That means that everyone's van is going to weigh a little differently. So the right shock for your van probably won't be the perfect shock for someone else's van ect ect

I've got a 4000mile trip planned in a couple weeks. I'll report back on how my cheapo lift kit is working out after.
:friday:
 

Jb1rd

Explorer
thoughts about this van???

Have been more focused on the Ford Vans to do a conversion but this came up in my area for fairly decent price $5k the add says; "Get noticed! This 2001 chevy express 2500 cargo van is unique. Not only is it taller than any other van around, it has brand new tires and carbon fibered wheels. Body in great shape and everything works well especially A/C. Went through everything mechanical less than 50 miles ago. Engine, Transmission, Brakes, good to go. Clean inside and out ready for your company logo or wrap". What says the group? Does this look like a good candidate for a starter van/camper/adventure-rig?

chevy.jpg
 

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boardrider247

Weekend warrior anarchist
Have been more focused on the Ford Vans to do a conversion
View attachment 211707

That is a decent looking van.
Is your plan to convert this to 4wd?
If it is I would stick with ford. Personally Chris has such a great track record converting and helping others convert their own vans that I would have to go with ujoint if it were going to build a 4wd van.
I know that Clydesdale has posted some sweet pics of vans they have been working on lately. So it may be worth talking to them before you make any decisions.

If you are going to stay 2wd I would say go for it!
 

86cj

Explorer
In a perfect world, what extended and collapsed lengths do you need? The real determining factor is the collapsed length because if to long you will be losing bump travel and bottoming on the shock. So once you know what collapsed length for your specific setup you can look for the longest extended length with an acceptable collapsed length.
.
Finding a shock that is the right length and will bolt on is pretty much solvable at this point if you use a tape measure, agreed but getting a shock with the valving tuned for a van with a lift has not been addressed by shock companies. The only thing I know about valving is if it's tuned right it works very well.....
 

BajaSportsmobile

Baja Ironman
.
Finding a shock that is the right length and will bolt on is pretty much solvable at this point if you use a tape measure, agreed but getting a shock with the valving tuned for a van with a lift has not been addressed by shock companies. The only thing I know about valving is if it's tuned right it works very well.....

Exactly! That is why I asked. I've been tuning shocks for more than 20 years... and "it works very well".
 

hitekhobo

Public Lands Accessor
Went to crank on my torsion adjusting bolts today. They appear to already be all of the way up. As far as I know, this van is stock. The van doesn't sit especially high. Did anyone else experience this?
 

r_w

Adventurer
Not on a van, but on my Silverado. They were almost at the top from the factory.

You can use Ford keys, they are indexed a little different, or you can check the color code and go to stiffer torsion bars.
 

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