Christmas Honeymoon in the Alps!

[Streakerfreak]

Hey everyone!

Jenn and I arrived home from Europe the night of January 1st. Since I am still jobless I was able to sort through 2,000 snapshots from the trip. I'll be picking up the medium format shots next week.

Jenn kept a journal during the non-offroading trip so I decided to just type up what she wrote and include images. This thread will be photo and text intensive so it will take a few posts. I will include my own two cents in italics and edit the journal down. I know this really is not a big Overland trip, but I am still going to make a trip report. I felt since the past 4 years I have dragged Jenn through the dirt on any trip we go on that it would be nice to have a non-offroading honeymoon. That said I am sure neither of us will want a trip like this for years to come.

I thought it would be best to hire a few private guides for this trip. There are just certain places where I knew it would be better to have someone local show us around. It helped greatly on the first day and while in Prague. If were on a trip where we are not camping I like to find hotels that best represent the area we are staying as I think it helps bring us into the right mind set.


Our Honeymoon Travels


The Departure- December 18, 2008

Well we are finally on our way to Europe. I am a little nervous, but I have full faith in Phil and knowing that we are going to many of the places he has been eases me some. I trust Phil and he has never steered us wrong even in the middle of nowhere.

We took the 8am ferry from New London, CT to Orient Point, NY.

After spending some time at my grandmother's house and meeting Nina (Phil's Best "Women") we were off to the airport.

The trip through security went pretty fast, only minor irritations due to pushy, rude people. I could tell Phil was getting very stressed out by the actions of people around us. I did the best I could to help him ignore their animalistic behavior.

The Flight- December 18th into the 19th

Unfortunately, the Lufthansa flight was full. It was also that time of the month for me, plus I had a terrible migraine. The problem started with our seats. We had to stand in the aisle for about 20 minutes, due to an error. The seats were open, but apparently even though they were our seats... they weren't. Finally they told us to just sit down. The plane started down the runway and just as the front wheel left the ground the guy in front of Phil decided it was alright to push his seat back in mid take off. The seat hit Phil ********** in the middle of his face, because Phil was grabbing someone's baby bottle that starting rolling down the aisle. After checking Phil's nose to make sure it was not broken (Phil had a bloody lip too) we tried to calm down. We then realized the guy in front of us had not showered or used deodorant. We then tried to sleep, but when I was actually falling asleep I felt my pillow moving and something hard coming between my face and the pillow. The guy behind me decided to use our armrests as a foot rest. When we asked him to remove his foot, he just flipped us off.

After a hellish flight we landed in Munich the morning of December 19th where we met our private tour guide waiting for us.

Dachau- December 19th, 2008

John B Wetsone (a Connecticut Native who moved to Munich in the 1970's) picked us up and we headed right to Dachau, the first concentration camp.

It was great to have John show us around. It was so much better than a group tour or having your face planted in a book trying to figure out what you're seeing. Even though I felt like crap I really enjoyed Dachau. It was a sobering experience even more so since it was raining instead of snowing. We slowly walked as John talked about what happened here. I think the most powerful aspects of the tour were the “Shower” rooms… gas chambers, ovens, mass graves, and the execution wall. All I can say is I felt a heaviness come over me. It's a very oppressive place.

The "Showers"

Ovens

Prison- Some Valkyrie Prisoners were kept here. Yes there was also a prison at the camp for others too.

John then took us to Schloss Dachau for lunch, but I was too sick to eat anything. My migraine had taken over. We got to our hotel called the Hotel Opera and passed out in pain. Apparently, Phil slept for about 3 hours and then watched CNN and German dubbed films until the next morning.

 

[Streakerfreak]

Schloss Nymphenburg- December 20th

John picked us up at 9:00am on another rainy day when it should be snowing. As we drove round Munich he pointed out many historical sites. Phil was most interested in sites that dealt with the rise of Hitler and the Nazi party. Our main destination was Nymphenburg the summer home of the rulers of Bavaria and birth place of King Ludwig II. I really enjoy the palace grounds. There was so much to see here.

Next up was BMW Welt. I thought to myself why in the world would we be going to BMW. Phil said “Trust me. You will see” WOW! I actually enjoyed it there. That is a very cool place and I actually was interested in their vehicles and how they presented them.

I think I really surprised Phil when I jumped on a Dual Sport and said “When are we getting them?” I have become fascinated by them after watching the Long Way series.

How freakin cool is that!?!?!

From here John brought us to the airport to pick up our rental car for the next week. He even offered help in getting back to the hotel. We all decided not to go that route as it would be a pain for John. Everything went so smoothly and the rental agent was very nice. He offered us either a brand new Ford Fusion or a brand new Volkswagen Golf. Without hesitation Phil spoke up and said the Golf. The guy got a big laugh out of that. Why drive a Ford when you're in Germany was Phil's answer. I was nervous as we left the airport for downtown Munich, how Phil can just suddenly start driving here is beyond me, I have no clue what half these signs mean. I guess it's just Phil.

We got back to the hotel and headed to the Christmas Market in the Marienplatz. We quickly left. The lack of snow was bringing more tourists out then when Phil was here Christmas 2001. It was just too crazy for us. Phil decided we should eat at a nice Italian place near the hotel called Salotto. Our waiter first spoke to us in German, which Phil surprisingly understood. It was not until Phil tried to tell me what he had said that he realized we were American. He actually apologized for not speaking to us in German. This made me feel terrible, but the food was wonderful and so was our waiter.

Garmisch-Partenkirchen- December 21, 2008

Woke up to find out we still don't have snow and it is still raining, while New England is getting dumped on with snow. How ironic and sad! Phil decided he would take a longer way to get to our new hotel in Garmisch instead of the Autobahn. He knew very few things would be open on a Sunday so we would be in no rush to get to our new spot. The country side is beautiful even without snow and I actually really like Munich. I think I will miss it very much. It was a very comfortable city.

As we drove south we both became very depressed. I had seen Phil's portfolio images from when he was here this time of year; I guess I have become disillusioned that it does not look like that same white Christmas. Oh well, nothing we can do about it. After driving around Garmisch-Partenkirchen for a while, we stopped at a Gas station to pick up some snacks for dinner and then headed to the Gaestehaus Strasser on the outskirts of Garmisch.

As I look back I wish I had chosen a smaller village higher in the Bavarian Alps. I should have chosen a Gaestehaus in Linderhof instead.

 

[Streakerfreak]

King Ludwig II Tour- December 22, 2008

John Wetsone picked us up around 9am for our last tour with him, his King Ludwig II Tour. Phil thought it was best to have a private guide for this as Ludwig's life was so intense no guide book could ever truly describe his life. We went to our first church today. No matter what your religion is one must see the churches in Europe, they are breathtaking.

This one was in Oberammergau where we also checked a lot of the detailed Lueftlmalene.

My favorite is the one of Hansel and Gretel.

The lack of snow and the continued rain bummed me out though. I knew Phil was getting bummed that I was bummed too.

From here we went and toured the little village of Rottenbuch and their church

The body of a "Saint" Most likely just some random medieval guy.

Even though Phil and I are not Christian I still lit a candle for my mother, who passed away a little over 2 years ago from complications her M.S. caused her Cancer surgery. I missed her terribly at our wedding. Since she was a devote Catholic I know she would have loved that I lit her a candle at a church like this.

Eventually we head to King Ludwig II fairytale castles. Phil said there was no need to actually tour Neuschwanstein as there are only a few rooms and way too many tourists. John seemed very happy about that.

He decided it would be best just to look at it from the outside and tour Hohenschwangau the family castle instead. I guess Phil did not get to see the inside of it when he was here. It was very fascinating.

After a very nice lunch in Austria we headed to Schloss Linderhof where there was still a lot of snow on the ground! This is the only Fairytale castle he actually got to live in when it was completed. It was my personal favorite. I am now very fascinated by Ludwig II.

One thing I am noticing here is that the Germans are a very social and active culture. The only obese people I have seen were the American couple at the airport. Very sad indeed. I think Phil is enjoying driving here also. He is not getting as stressed out as he normally does. I‘m also amazed with the dogs here. There are so many of them and they are all so well behaved. How do they do it?

We said our goodbyes to John and then we were off for a night of German dubbed American TV.

 

[Streakerfreak]

Christmas Shopping Day- December 23, 2008

Today we were in search of handmade items for gifts for our family. Most of what we found was wood carvings from Oberammergau. Next we drove down to Mittenwald and just walked around for a while.

We had a giant donut

before stumbling upon “butt spoons” (small plastic sleds) Phil wanted to get them, but I talked him out of it. A big mistake on my part. I have got to learn never talk Phil out of a purchase. He always seems to have the foresight for what we will need.

We were lost on what to do from here. Phil decided we would go for a hike since the rain had finally stopped. He didn’t tell me where we were going.

After 10 minutes of walking we stumbled upon the ruins of a castle ruins that date back to 1219. I was impressed and it felt great to be alone with Phil outside.

 

[Streakerfreak]

Christmas Eve

Everything starts to close down for three days today so Phil decided we would head to the top of the Zugspitze.

We took the long way up on the train to the Zugspitzplatt where we jumped on the cable car to the top. It was a lot of fun and very nice to have blue sky.

Phil made Christmas Eve reservations at the Gasthof Fraundorfer where we ate a traditional Bavarian dinner. Next to us was a very hilarious older Irish couple. I got a laugh when the wife's dinner came out. It had a flaming pot of something. The husband told here to put her machine (in regards to the pot) over there as to not burn down the building. It was a great night.

Christmas Day

We slept in since nothing would be open. At breakfast we got a neat gift from Mrs. Strasser the owner. We were the only people staying at her house at the time. It was at this time we had realized it had SNOWED!! Now I see why Phil wanted to get those butt spoons. The search was on for a place that might actually be open and just drive around in the alps.

We failed miserably in our search for these sleds so we went back to the hotel to pee before heading up to Linderhof for a walk. Phil carried on about how we should have gotten the sleds when we saw them since they were small enough to fit in our luggage. We took it slow on the road to Linderhof since it was pretty slick, but Phil said the Golf handled really well on the tight curves. He found a spot to go out in the woods. Phil once again said “I wish we bought those sleds” he then opened the truck and said “But we have this!” as he pulled out a larger sled that the hotel let him use. The hike up the mountain was nice, but the ride down was a blast!

 

[Streakerfreak]

Travel day to Salzburg- December 26

After a quick breakfast we were off to our new destination on the outskirts of Salzburg. Like usual Phil chose the longer way that took us on very small Alpine roads. Phil was having a blast as the snow fell on these mountain roads, while I held on with white knuckles. Along the way to Austria we stopped in Mittenwald so Phil could pick up his “butt spoons”

We would have to take the Autobahn in Austria for about 20% of the trip though so we had to pick up the window sticker and while we were at it we also bought snow chains as they are required in the Tyrolean Alps. It was cheaper to buy them then it was to rent them back in Munich.

We were going to stop in Innsbruck, but we were getting stressed by the amount of industry and people there. Our stop for an hour would be Rattenberg instead.

I loved it. It was a wonderful little village with castle ruins above.

Our stay for two nights would be in the Honeymoon Suite at the Bloberger hof on the outskirts of Salzburg.

Mozart Day- December 27

It was time to explore Salzburg for a little. Mostly we just walked around as Phil pointed out some sites before picking up some Mozart “Balls” The only place we actually stopped at was the cemetery and the abandon catacombs.

Phil pointed out Mozart's birthplace, but I was very disgusted by what was around the area. A few prostitutes lingered in the alleys and there was a panty store next door. I decided it was time to leave.

After a few hours relaxing at the hotel we headed back into Salzburg for our Mozart concert in Hohensalzburg.

We walked around up there for a bit, until dinner started. Dinner was followed by an absolutely amazing performance of some of Mozart's works. It was wonderful to hear his music where he himself once played.

 

[Streakerfreak]

Travel Day- December 28

We had to wake up extra early since we had to drop off the car in Vienna by 2pm. On the way we stopped at Mauthausen Concentration camp near Linz, Austria.

Unfortunately, we were a few Euros short to get in. Dachau was free, this was not. So we just walked around the outside, checked out the Stairs of Death and then left for Vienna.

Everything went smoothly getting the car to the rental agency at the airport and with a getting a taxi to our hotel in downtown Vienna. I'm very glad Phil decided not to actually visit Vienna. It was way too large and crowded for our tastes. We just used it as a stopping off point on our way to Prague. The hotel we stayed at was wonderful. It was a wine based boutique hotel (not that expensive for Vienna either) We could care less about the wine thing, but it was a really well thought out hotel. The shower was amazing itself. It was a nice oasis from the hectic city outside.

Travel Day- December 29

Today we would take the train from Vienna into Prague.

We had no issues with the train and everything went well. We were picked up from the train station in Prague by the driver from our hotel. All I can say is that Czech drivers are crazy! I'm glad Phil decided to use public transportation here, but I am sure Phil would have done just fine on his own had he driven.

The hotel is amazing! It's called Domus Henrici.

The building dates back from the 1300's and is in a very quiet area near the castle away from all the crazy tourists. Phil's only gripe was that there was too many fluffy pillows and the bed was too soft and short for him. If he could sleep everyday on plywood and a rolled up shirt he would.

This entry has been several edited. The rest of the entry is us having fun with the bad English Translations at the restaurant we went too.

 

[Streakerfreak]

Kutna Hora- December 30

Once again we had a private tour guide. When Phil was here with his German class they had a Prague tour with a great lady so Phil decided to use her again. Helena picked us up at 9am and headed out of Prague for Kutna Hora.

The main stopped of the day was some place Phil has wanted to see for years…The Bone Church (The Ossuary).

Yes this is the same place featured in The Long Way Around. We spent a long time here. It was very fascinating. I was happy that Phil got to see something he has wanted to visit for years.

The Russians have a practice where they throw coins on things. While it might be very acceptable in the culture it is ruining a lot of these historical artifacts and sites. Most sites have universal signs saying no to the coin practice, but they don't pay attention to these warnings. We saw a lot of damaged artifacts. I saw Phil cringe many times when we would hear the large Russian tour groups throwing the coins at these sites. Nothing you can do. Its a practice they are use to.

We spent the rest of the day walking around the medieval town.

The Church of St Barbara

Before we went back to the hotel Helena decided to show us around the Loreto near our hotel.

 

[Streakerfreak]

Prague- December 31

Phil is having a really hard time sleeping in the hotel so he is getting really exhausted. He has had about 2 hours of sleep the past two days. I'm worried. He says the bed is very uncomfortable for him, the mini bar noise keeps him up, and the latched door kept opening and closing by itself…yes Phil watches the handle turn and the door open and then close and latch again. I'm so glad it is not me seeing this. Each time Phil apparently gets up checks the door (its the second door on the inside that opens up to our little waiting area) tries to figure out way it would be doing that and then tries to fall back to sleep only for it to open again. I guess instead of sleeping he keeps experimenting to see why the door would open like that. Phil is a very rational person and must exclude all possibilities before coming to a conclusion.

Helena met us outside the hotel again and walked us down to the castle where we toured the grounds. The Golden Lane (Kafka lived here for a time) and the Royal Palace was fascinating.

St. Vitus Cathedral

Tomb of one of the first kings of Prague

The Golden Lane

Kafka's home

The Great hall

I loved seeing the old hall where they once had jousting events. The rest of the day was spent in the tourist sections. Thankfully the rest of the day was only 2 hours. While I am glad I got to see the astronomical clock and the Charles Bridge, it was way too crowded for us.

Flood markers

When we got back to the hotel around 2pm we found a complementary bottle of Bohemia Sekt for the night. As I write this Phil is packing our bags.

I don't think we will get much sleep tonight. At 4pm the fireworks already started.

Home- January 1st

We got very little sleep. The fireworks started at 4pm and did not stop until 4am when we woke up to get to the airport. We actually got to see the ball drop in NYC as they were showing it on CNN. Yup, just a cheesy as always. The Prague airport was very clean and efficient. It was actually a nice experience and then we arrived at JFK where you feel like second class citizens. I'm glad to be home, but I do miss Bavaria. I know Phil wants to get back there someday.

After this trip I know Phil is ready for an extended Overlanding trip. I know he is planning something. I have noticed he has been doing a lot of reading on South America and Africa. Hmmm, I wonder?

It was a good trip. That said I made a lot of mistakes in planning. First mistake was to base our honeymoon around a bus trip I took with my High School German Class. Second mistake was to base our stay in Bavaria around there being snow. If I was to do this same trip again I would have cut Prague out of the trip and save it for an Eastern Europe adventure. I should have just stayed entirely in Bavaria at one place and done day trips around the area.

Well that's it I hope you enjoyed our little vacation. As you can imagine I heavily edited the journal. We did too much to describe and took many images. Your only seeing half of what we did as I am not one to just sit around.

 

[ujoint]

Wow! That's about all I can say right now. What a trip.

 

[laxtoy]

very cool. looked at your wedding photos, too, very neat. getting married in may, also trying for a little less orthodox, but we decided on 3 weeks on maui and kauai. :sunny: although my fiance loves halloween, not sure if i could have sold her on that, looks like you have a pretty cool girl there.

 

[kai38]

Great photos.
I was an army brat growing up in Europe and traveled to almost every one of those places in the pictures Thanks for sharing. I went back to Europe for 6 weeks in '82 & plan again next year when I retire to take my kids for a huge European Vacation road trip.
Thanks again

 

[DaveInDenver]

Fantastic trip! When we got the chance to go to Germany, it was in the winter, too (Feb-March). Best time of the year, no American touristas.

BTW, we did the Neuschwanstein tour and it was OK. The tour guide had lots of stories about Ludwig and that was the most interesting part. The castle itself only has about a dozen furnished rooms since Ludwig was removed from power before the castle was done. What's interesting, though, is how modern it is inside (being built in the 1880s), running water, coal-fired forced air, flush toilets. You sort of think of castles in their medieval stereotypes.

 

[FROADER]

Great read and pictures! Thanks for sharing that.

 

[Streakerfreak]

Fantastic trip! When we got the chance to go to Germany, it was in the winter, too (Feb-March). Best time of the year, no American touristas.

BTW, we did the Neuschwanstein tour and it was OK. The tour guide had lots of stories about Ludwig and that was the most interesting part. The castle itself only has about a dozen furnished rooms since Ludwig was removed from power before the castle was done. What's interesting, though, is how modern it is inside (being built in the 1880s), running water, coal-fired forced air, flush toilets. You sort of think of castles in their medieval stereotypes.

Yeah I went to Neuschwanstein during my last trip there. King Ludwig is in reality more fascinating then his fairytale castles. I definitely enjoyed Linderhof more then I did Neuschwanstein. John Wetstone was really able to paint a great picture of the man there. I think Jenn has a new fascination.

I absolutely love Bavaria, but I doubt I would want to go there in the summer. I think the crowds of tourists would get to me. The only real crowds we experienced were the numerous large groups of Russian Tourists.

Looking back I think the things that stand out the most for me on this trip were Dachau, The Bone Church, and sledding. Those three days are etched into my mind.