Colorado slide in camper build

ITTOG

Well-known member
The panels butt together on top of the VHB tape. The tape secures them and seals them. At least that's the plan. I haven't tested a seam, but the tape makes such a secure bond after rolling that I can't imagine leakage.
You are brave. I can't wait to hear how that works out for you. Good luck.

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Andrew_S

Observer
Man I can't believe how fast you've been rolling on this! Unreal progress.
I have faith in the VHB for a solid seal. It's identical to glazing tape and thats what I used for my windows and no leaks at all. Can't see you have any issues.
How did you make out the speed controllers on the actuators?
 

Canlib

Member
Thank you all for your encouragement.
I haven't installed the speed controllers yet but certainly see the need. The front actuators are lifting most of the load and move considerably slower. I got PWM controllers from Amazon and bench tested them and they do work. I went for the ones with LED displays so I have a digital reference. Complicated to wire since you can't reverse the input polarity. To make a single switch control all four involves two relays for each actuator.
 
D

Deleted member 9101

Guest
Ignoring the manual is fine. I'm all for it. But I don't yet understand why slide in campers are vorboten.


Mid-size trucks have much smaller margin of error when it comes to payload. The frame in my F150 is also used in trucks rated to tow and haul thousands of pounds more than what mine is rated for and the axle is rated higher as well.... That's not the case for mid-sized trucks. There is no HD equivalent in the mid-sized truck realm in the US.
 

joshuag23

New member
Such a cool build! I was ready to finalize my portafold-inspired design for the truck, but now I'm rethinking everything again!
 

VanIsle_Greg

I think I need a bigger truck!
I dig it... and great progress! I am well into my build, and still plugging away at it, happy to see others also DIY'ing it.

#builtnotbought
 

eugene

Explorer
Ignoring the manual is fine. I'm all for it. But I don't yet understand why slide in campers are vorboten... I know the tailgate is at a slightly positive angle when it's down, but that seems like such a zero issue that it's hard to imagine that's all it is...
its also not just about payload, you have to pay attention to center of gravity. Notice how mid sized trucks are about as tall as full size but a little narrower. So it makes the side to side CG a little higher. Then you have to worry about front to back. The short wheelbase puts the rear axle very close to the front of the bed, its going to be hard to get the CG in front of the rear axle. Even my full size said no slide in campers in the manual. I made some changes to the camper to help distribute thee weight forward by removing the battery and charger, etc and mounting it under the hood of the truck. I also made sure that anything I carried was in front of the rear axle. There is some camper loading info available https://www.gmupfitter.com/files/media/photo/131/2004_LD_TruckCamperSnowplow.pdf
 

Canlib

Member
I've been moving along. The v wheel and guide track took forever to come then I was short of track and had to wait another forever. The joys of prototyping, you don't really know how it's going to work. The wait was worth it. The top section moves up and down smoothly and there is very little movement when it's up.
I also discovered I had undersized a wire on the actuators so they are moving closer to the same speed now. I will still use the pwms but there is less variation. I'm waiting to install the side panels until I've run it up and down a few more times.

The insulation is all fitted and I'm getting serious about the interior layout. Installed the Propex today.

I think the whole slide in discussion is a bit overblown. I've looked at a lot of 'bent frame' posts and it appears to me they happened at high speed on very rough roads. I'm not building a desert racer or trail runner. I will be mainly on highway or graded logging roads. I bought an ATV years ago so I could stop beating the pickup in order to go that last mile. That said, I appreciate your comments Eugene regarding the center of gravity. That was one of the reasons I wanted a pop up instead of a Kimbo style. Also, my Colorado is long box and the camper doesn't extend past the bumper. As well, I've been very thoughtful about keeping the balance point between the axles.


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eugene

Explorer
Not so much as bending the frame but removing weight from the front wheels affecting steering/handling. Do you have space in front of the wheel wells in the bed? Our camper had openings there to stash things so I made sure to also put any weight in there as well.
The other thing I was going to do was put a grey water tank under the truck bed, there was space between the gas tank and transfer case. Our camper only had a fresh water tank and nothing for waste water so we had to always carry a portable tank and sit it on the ground. I found this flat hose at Lowes and was planning to move the sink drain from the side to the front and snake the flat hose down between the bed and cab into the grey tank. Again keeping weight low and forward.
Also I was looking at a front hitch receiver so I could carry a bike rack or small cargo box there as well.

I've since sold our camper as I'm at the place where the wife and kids hate the backwards opening extended cab doors that I need to think about a different truck. Trying to decide between full and mid sized now.
 

Canlib

Member
Because of the heavy diesel engine there is plenty of weight up front. My freshwater tank is against the front of the box and no grey.
 

Canlib

Member
Big day! Glued on the final trim pieces. The exterior is done. I've moved on to wiring and interior layout. Half the interior 1/8" Birch ply has been Varathaned both sides. Pushing to be ready for spring. Not that we've really had winter here in the Okanagan.
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ITTOG

Well-known member
Glue only or with fasteners as well? What glue you using.

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