command-trac t-case + ARB lockers= ?
- Thread starter idaxj97
- Start date
PhulesAU
Explorer
Being a Wrangler owner I'm not an expert,BUT it shouldn't make any difference than any other type of locker. you are locking the axle not the t-case. also the nice thhing about the ARB's is, you have total control of when they are locked, none of that I'm locked and there's nothing you can do about it.
cshontz
Supporting Sponsor
Short answer: No.
Slightly longer answer: I believe that "locking up" can introduce marginally more stress on your transfer case - particularly when locking both differentials, engaging 4-low, and driving in a tight figure-8 pattern at your local mall's parking lot on a hot summer day.
Slightly longer answer: I believe that "locking up" can introduce marginally more stress on your transfer case - particularly when locking both differentials, engaging 4-low, and driving in a tight figure-8 pattern at your local mall's parking lot on a hot summer day.
SeaRubi
Explorer
You likely have the NP231 transfer case. No harm at all done to by fitting dual ARB's. When in 4-low the axles is "locked" front to rear in a 50/50 torque split.
http://www.jeepforum.com/wiki/index.php/NP231
The only thing you might want to watch out for is mileage and wear on the chain. With all four tires bound on a high friction surface, you'll be introducing more stress to the transfer case than it's ever seen before in it's life. They are reasonably stout cases, however. I wouldn't worry about it. Run it till it breaks and upgrade to NP241OR, the Rubi t-case. It's nearly a direct bolt-in for the Cherokee.
If going to the effort of fitting ARB's front and rear, I would recommend also installing a slip-yoke eliminator (SYE) kit and, and then fit a new rear propshaft.
cheers,
-ike
http://www.jeepforum.com/wiki/index.php/NP231
The only thing you might want to watch out for is mileage and wear on the chain. With all four tires bound on a high friction surface, you'll be introducing more stress to the transfer case than it's ever seen before in it's life. They are reasonably stout cases, however. I wouldn't worry about it. Run it till it breaks and upgrade to NP241OR, the Rubi t-case. It's nearly a direct bolt-in for the Cherokee.
If going to the effort of fitting ARB's front and rear, I would recommend also installing a slip-yoke eliminator (SYE) kit and, and then fit a new rear propshaft.
cheers,
-ike
xr8dxj
Adventurer
You'll be fine. I've had front & rear ARBs for years and experienced no ill effects. It's not like you would be driving around with your ARBs "on" all of the time. On average, I bet my ARBs are on for less than 30 seconds at a time. I only use them to get through an obstacle that I'm expecting loss of traction. You'll never want to have your ARBs "on" when you're just driving around... it's just too much traction, and you wouldn't hardly be able to steer. Many people think ARBs are handy driving down a snow covered road; no, on snow they'll only put you in the ditch. When I lived in Alaska this was why I decided on ARBs instead of a less expensive Lock-Right or even Detroits... so you can turn them off instead of them "coming to the rescue" at inopportune times.
Now about the stress you were concerned about. Unless you upgrade your front and rear ends you may break a front axle periodically. The only time I've broken an axle is when my front ARB is on. Remember that "too much traction" I talked about earlier? In my case ARBs and 37" IROKs is just too much stress on that itsy-bity Dana 30. I snap a couple short-side axles a year. So I buy up a couple used axles to bring on the trail with me and have another spare sitting at home in the garage. I could upgrade my front end & lose ground clearance or I could get chrome-moly axles and risk destroying my ARB. So I choose where I want the weak-spot to be... the short side axle shaft. I carry a spare hub, two short side axles and one long side axle just in case. I have the pit-stop down to 15 minutes including explaining to other trail mates how to change the axle and why I still run a Dana 30.
I would hold off on purchasing ARBs until you've settled on your final dif-gears. I wouldn't go with gearing lower than 4.56:1 because the 4.88:1 ring gear is dangerously thin (on a Chryco 8.25). Let's say you ran 35x12.5R15's, 4.56s and ARBs; you would be fine IMHO & experience. Just mind the skinny pedal. I break axles because of my tire size, locked ARB, and Dana 30... and I REALLY mind the skinny pedal. If you ran smaller tires and bigger gears I wouldn't imagine you would ever experience problems; say 32x11.5R15s & 4.10s.
I know I ramble & babble a lot, but I hope that helps. :smiley_drive:
Now about the stress you were concerned about. Unless you upgrade your front and rear ends you may break a front axle periodically. The only time I've broken an axle is when my front ARB is on. Remember that "too much traction" I talked about earlier? In my case ARBs and 37" IROKs is just too much stress on that itsy-bity Dana 30. I snap a couple short-side axles a year. So I buy up a couple used axles to bring on the trail with me and have another spare sitting at home in the garage. I could upgrade my front end & lose ground clearance or I could get chrome-moly axles and risk destroying my ARB. So I choose where I want the weak-spot to be... the short side axle shaft. I carry a spare hub, two short side axles and one long side axle just in case. I have the pit-stop down to 15 minutes including explaining to other trail mates how to change the axle and why I still run a Dana 30.
I would hold off on purchasing ARBs until you've settled on your final dif-gears. I wouldn't go with gearing lower than 4.56:1 because the 4.88:1 ring gear is dangerously thin (on a Chryco 8.25). Let's say you ran 35x12.5R15's, 4.56s and ARBs; you would be fine IMHO & experience. Just mind the skinny pedal. I break axles because of my tire size, locked ARB, and Dana 30... and I REALLY mind the skinny pedal. If you ran smaller tires and bigger gears I wouldn't imagine you would ever experience problems; say 32x11.5R15s & 4.10s.
I know I ramble & babble a lot, but I hope that helps. :smiley_drive:
idaxj97
Adventurer
Thanks everyone for the answers Im not going to run a tire taller than 33x12.50x15 and 4.56 gears but at this time Im gonna stay with my 31's and regear to 4.10s. Luckly I was blessed with the D44 so i dont think ill be breaking the rear anytime soon with these size tires.:bike_rider: