Converting a factory JK/JKU hardtop to modular
- Thread starter jscherb
- Start date
jscherb
Expedition Leader
Update on the Freedom Panel skylight project... a company has told me they want to go ahead with them. I should be getting preproduction hinges from the hardware company early next week - that's the last piece needed before the kit can go into production. Just have to test those and then everything is sourced - tempered glass panels, hinges, latches, weatherseal, hardware.
jscherb
Expedition Leader
Loving my new slider windows!
The second a hatch for gear access is available I will go that route!
I have a install video / thread coming for those curious about the windows
How's the install video / thread coming?
kantidesai
New member
Jeff, can you reply me , we spoke about month ago,
i am working on Jeep Project to remove side panels on $ door JK hardtop, i have also question if you have any suggestion if rear glass we can remove easily and install easily when needed. if you have any idea or threads please send me with Picture image
i am working on Jeep Project to remove side panels on $ door JK hardtop, i have also question if you have any suggestion if rear glass we can remove easily and install easily when needed. if you have any idea or threads please send me with Picture image
jscherb
Expedition Leader
Because a hatch has to have both hinges and gas struts removed, it's not ideal for making removable. The best idea I've got for an easily removable rear window is a "soft barn door". It's like the soft upper for a half door, and attaches quickly to the tailgate. Once installed, the tailgate + upper opens together as one unit.
I've done several, this first photos shows one done in camo fabric being removed, it's being used with a factory hardtop:
Here's one in Spice fabric to match my Safari Cab hardtop, open:
Closed:
The Spice one has a fixed window, you could also be sew it with a roll-down rear window, here's one off the Jeep with the soft window rolled down:
I've posted details for these in my barn door thread: http://forum.expeditionportal.com/threads/127687-Barn-Door-for-JK-factory-hardtops
briandamge
New member
Just about a year after jscherb first started this thread, I used his very thorough write-up to make my own modular hard top, this time on a real 2dr JK. I'm planning to make a video demonstrating the function, but here's a small pic dump:
Up a quick trail near Orange County, CA:
Removed the side and rear panels:
Rear shot:
As naked as I need to get :wings: :
Thanks for the write-up, Jeff! Those on the fence of making their own, you should definitely do it.
Up a quick trail near Orange County, CA:
Removed the side and rear panels:
Rear shot:
As naked as I need to get :wings: :
Thanks for the write-up, Jeff! Those on the fence of making their own, you should definitely do it.
jscherb
Expedition Leader
Looks great!! Glad the instructions worked out for you - anything I need to add to the write-up to help others who decide to take on this project?
Looking forward to seeing the video!
Because I don't have a 2-door JK, there's one detail I had to write about but couldn't take photos of and that's how the roof panel gets attached to the main hoop of the roll bar for running with the sides off. I posted about it here: http://forum.expeditionportal.com/t...-JKU-hardtop-to-modular?p=2124564#post2124564. Obviously you've taken care of that, so if you could post photos and a description of what you did that may help other 2dr owners, and also anything else you've done to support the rear of the roof when the rear panel is out.
briandamge
New member
To support the roof panel, I used four support points - two in the front, and two in the rear.
In the front, there is a plate that sits on top of the roll hoop structure on either side. I tapped a hole in that plate because it's pretty thick, and just used some 1" aluminum square tubing as a spacer to run a bolt through the roof panel to the plate. I seem to have neglected to take a picture of that spacer, so here's a shoddy picture of the right-side location. You can see the plate that I tapped a hole into:
In the rear, I made brackets out of shaft collars, some 16ga steel and that 1" aluminum square tubing - just what was available at Home Depot. I riveted everything together because I don't have easy access to a welder since moving. I created the shape using some scrap cardboard after I completed the rest of the top. Too lazy to use CAD for such a simple and imprecise part, so I used a copy machine to create the template:
Here's the final right-side bracket, left unpainted until I motivate myself to do so:
With the sides and rear removed, the top really doesn't move much at highway speeds. Without doors and the freedom tops, the roof panel oscillates up and down by maybe 1.5" total, but not enough to worry me. My brackets are as close to the corners as I can get, but they're still not very close. Here's a picture that somewhat shows where the four bolts are located:
I'll come up with a list of points you could add to the instructions, but they were pretty thorough to begin with. Any and all further questions are welcome!
-Harrison
Last edited:
jscherb
Expedition Leader
Nicely done! Good idea to tap into the brackets on the roll bar, but I'm wondering - they're a bit further outboard than the location of the screws on the 4-dr (and further outboard than I suggested screws be put in for the 2dr in my post on that subject) - if you put a third screw in the center of the roll bar you might solve that flex issue when the doors/Freedom panels are off?
Note to those who want to run a 2-door modular top with the side panels out but the rear panel/hatch in place (as in the images below), only the bolts up front are required. The rear panel will provide support for the back of the roof panel, so those nice brackets Harrison made for the back wouldn't be required in the configuration below.
briandamge
New member
They are further outboard than you suggested. My reasons for putting them there was that the attachment points are now straight parallel lines front-rear, at the highest point on the outside of the hard top:
This allows me to build a roof rack/basket similar to the Smittybilt Defender, which would be supported by the brackets attached to the roll hoop. That'll be a later project!
I also placed them more outboard because I didn't want to risk the outside edges of the roof panel (which is now essentially a flat sheet of fiberglass) drooping if I take the side panels out for an extended period of time, or the edges flapping at high speeds.
The areas I saw move at highway speeds were actually in the rear of the roof panel, where the rear panel would attach. I didn't pay attention to the front of the roof panel, where the freedom panels would clamp down - I'll have to do that the next time I remove everything. I mainly wanted this modular top so that I could remove the rear and side panels, but still have a roof over my head, much like the Trektop Pro I replaced with this modular top, so I don't feel compelled to remove the freedom tops anyway. Sunburnt scalps are no fun!
I didn't actually make any attachment of the rear panel to the lip of the tub, like you suggested. Mainly, there's no easy way to get a tool in that area to tighten any bolts or screws, from the top or the bottom. I also want the rear to be as easily accessible as the sides when I take the side panels off, so I don't see myself ever running with just the rear panel in place. If I end up changing my mind, I'll update
-Harrison
jscherb
Expedition Leader
Definitely agree about removing the sides and rear panels but still having a roof over your head, that was one of the main design requirements for both my LJ and JK Safari Cab hardtops.
One thing that would improve the stability in the back when running without the rear panel is support brackets like the ones I did for the LJ Safari Cab:
Because the converted factory modular roof ends a bit before the back of the tub the brackets would have to slant forward a bit, but they would look fine. I drew some on one of your photos with a design similar to the ones I did for the LJ, but instead of the big holes you could do a different design, perhaps steps to access that roof rack you plan to install some day.
I didn't actually make any attachment of the rear panel to the lip of the tub, like you suggested. Mainly, there's no easy way to get a tool in that area to tighten any bolts or screws, from the top or the bottom. I also want the rear to be as easily accessible as the sides when I take the side panels off, so I don't see myself ever running with just the rear panel in place. If I end up changing my mind, I'll update
-Harrison
I had no problem bolting the JK Safari Cab rear panel to the tub, access under the rim of the tub for nuts isn't difficult. The only thing that would be different when converting a factory top is you'd need to cut access holes in the inner skin of the rear panel to insert the bolts. I described that here: http://forum.expeditionportal.com/t...-JKU-hardtop-to-modular?p=2253888#post2253888
TrailBadger
Banned
Good looking top and I love the roll up/down windows.. I would prefer a hard shell top over a soft top.. but the windows should be soft. The problem (based on your design) would be what are or where are the mounting points for this hard shell top.. I would suspect that if the hard top extends from the front window to the rear of the vehicle.. the 2 latch point in front would serve as one mounting area. As for the rear, it looks as if the support arms would retain the brunt of the hard shell top. My trouble is that I can't get the freedom top design out of my head so I can focus on a full length type top.
jscherb
Expedition Leader
Where you see "problems", I see design opportunities .
If I were to build a modular Freedom Top to run with the roof only, I would extend the roof full length by cutting the top section off the rear panel as shown in the red lines - the section outlined in red lines would be bolted to the back of the roof panel, and the rear of the roof would be supported by support brackets like on my LJ and like I drew on briandamge's photo. The brackets would bolt to the back of the tub and on the top would bolt to the roof extension. With this extension the roof would extend to the rear of the tub and would have a finished look.
.If I were to build a modular Freedom Top to run with the roof only, I would extend the roof full length by cutting the top section off the rear panel as shown in the red lines - the section outlined in red lines would be bolted to the back of the roof panel, and the rear of the roof would be supported by support brackets like on my LJ and like I drew on briandamge's photo. The brackets would bolt to the back of the tub and on the top would bolt to the roof extension. With this extension the roof would extend to the rear of the tub and would have a finished look.