I could have done them in white but the lights are black to start with so it wouldn't have made a big difference. They are powdercoated, that's already better than I planned, lol.They look So good and work well too.
I'd likely either polish the aluminum or coat them white for more of a stealth look. Or paint the pans the original colour for our theme look with less chance of being hassled for red lights.
I'm sorry to necro a thread, but thank you for this tip.See this post in my build thread for my conversion of an original fixture to LED for about $2
16ga steel because of cost and strength vs thicknessVery nice! Steel or aluminum?
I resolved to do the same until I talked to a buddy who does drafting for a living and may be the only person more handy than me haha.I had some Whelen light buckets that were about your depth, but a little shorter and longer. After I looked at making custom buckets, I lucked out and found 4 Whelen scene LED lights for the sides, and a pair of Tecniq K90 scene lights for the rear. I found Whelen 900 amber LED with a clear lens in place of the halogens. Only took 3 years to track them down!....
I considered the "bond a piece of plate to the topper" option, given that it would be sandwiched between the outer piece pictured above, and the backing/sandwich flange you can see in the last picture.Looking good! ... Maybe you could mount some kind of plate to the fiberglass, and then mount your light holder to it?
You kind of have an advantage with fiberglass in that you could also easily just patch it from the inside and then make a new cutout for your light holder... Or use some kind of strong sikaflex type adhesive to glue a thin aluminum strip on the inside of the roof. That would let you screw into it and sandwich the existing fiberglass roof.